Thursday, March 12 – transit from Florianopolis to Buenos Aires
I’m lovin’ Uber in Florianopolis! Cost of the ride to the airport: $6. Less than half of what I paid for a taxi when I arrived.
I really like the Florianopolis airport. This open air space is wonderful.Departures areaLong queue to board our flight. No virus worries here!Goodbye Florianopolis. I had a great time! (the view is of Lagoa da Conceição and the Barra da Lagoa area)
In my last entry I mentioned that I was planning on posting a journal update today, but something made that difficult. Well…
…this is the line for immigration in Buenos Aires. We’re just off the jetway and not even in the immigration area yet! Apparently they chose today to start their coronavirus health screening protocols, and it was very disorganized! Those protocols included filling out a new immigration form, which was different from the one the airline handed out. I found one question interesting: my seat number on the plane. Makes sense though. Arriving passengers were also required to walk past a heat-sensitive camera that measured body temperature. Unfortunately, they only had one camera! Ultimately it took over two hours to reach the baggage claim area.
The rest of my arrival in BA followed the same script as a couple weeks ago – bus to the city and then a shared minibus to the Art Suites hotel in the Recoleta neighborhood. By the time I got to the hotel I wasn’t in much of a mood to work on my journal!
Friday, March 13 – Buenos Aires
No big plans today. It’s a nice day though, so let’s see where my roaming leads!
Whoa, I noticed this posted on the entrance to the Recoleta Cemetery! Basically all museums, theatres, and even this outdoor cemetery in BA have been ordered closed due to the coronavirus. Apparently it went into effect yesterday (along with the immigration screening!). Probably a smart proactive move, even with the low incidence of the virus in this country. Likely means I’ll need to get creative on what I see on the rest of the trip! Looks like it’s break time for a dog walker!Anybody heard of this Armenian musician?At least the Rose Garden is still open! (the zoo was too!)Back on the job!It’s late afternoon, and I’m hungry. What a coincidence, I just happen to be back at the Armenian restaurant!We’ll go with a starter of sarma (and some lemonade)……followed by a main of shish kabob and pilaf. Yumm! Total cost: $12. Not bad, but seems a little expensive for Argentina.
Saturday, March 14 – Buenos Aires
It’s raining, so it seems like a perfect day to work on the journal, do some trip planning, and REST!
Sidenote: I did go out to grab some cash at the nearby ATM. I tried for 4,000 pesos this time, and…success! Whoo hoo! (also went on an empanada run!)
Apologies for the delayed update. It’s been a busy few days (and I’ve been a little lazy – come on, I’m on vacation!). I was going to post a new entry on Thursday, but…well, I’ll get to that…
Monday, March 9 – Florianopolis
I did a TON of beach walking today, and I feel fine (now, days later!)…
I headed to the northwest part of the island, courtesy of my executive bus. This area is definitely more commercialized than the other parts of the island that I have visited. Looking at some of the condos and homes along the beach reminded me of the Florida coast.
Here’s a map of the area I covered today. Basically, I walked all along the coast, starting at Praia de Juere and finishing with a trek around the peninsula in the southwest corner. I guess it’s hard to tell the scale from this picture, but it was long! My entry on to Praia de Juere (Juere Beach). Popular spot!Looking west down the beach towards the point. At the point, which includes a rock outcropping with nice views……like this!This was taken from a hill above Praia de Juere, as I make my way around the point.My next stop, at the top of the hill, was Fortaleza de São José da Ponta GrossaThe construction of the fortress was completed in 1765Fire at will! (lucky timing as this historical ship passed by!)Down the hill from the fort is Praia do ForteNot very crowded at this end of the beachGetting to the next beach was a little more tricky, via an unmarked trail called Trilha de Daniela p praia do forte (heard about it from my hotel’s staff). It climbed up above the water and offered some great views! It was funny, I had encounters with several people heading the opposite direction on the trail, and they all asked me (in Portuguese, of course!) whether or not there was a beach at the other end. I think I successfully confirmed their suspicions!Made it to the next beach!This beach is called Praia da Ponta Grossa. Once again, fairly crowded near the point of entry……but, if you’re willing to walk, rather deserted at the other end. (these beaches are all starting to look alike, aren’t they?!?)I’ve now transitioned to Praia da Daniela, which leads down to the peninsula. Rather empty……except for this guy. (Which looks like a blast, by the way!)Some minor obstacles on the way to the tip of the peninsula.And here we are at the end! A few other hard-cores made it as well I see. In the left background is the Florianopolis city center.
I was rather beat by this time, so instead of looking for the bus back to the hotel, I walked to the nearby town of Daniela and splurged on an Uber ($8).
Sidenote 1: I’ve been asked about the temps here: the highs have been in the low 80s, with mild humidity. Very nice!
Sidenote 2: When I’m walking the beaches I’m wearing a hat, scarf, and long-sleeved SPF shirt. Some of the locals look at me like I’m an alien! There must be a low incidence of skin cancer amongst the dark-skinned Brazilians.
Tuesday, March 10 – Florianopolis
Let’s explore the northeast part of the island today! Once again, my initial mode of transport was the bus.
I like this map idea! Here is the area I covered today. Well, basically the beaches to the east and north; and I did some hiking around the point. The white areas are sand dunes. You’ll see some pictures of the eastern ones.This is Praia do Santinho (Santinho Beach). The view is looking north towards Ponta dos Ingleses.The view southMaking my way towards the point…I’m now hiking the trail (called Toca Da Onça) on Ponta dos Ingleses. Nice view! (note the surfers on the beach)More from the trailLooking north at the sand dunes and my next destination!After walking through the lower part of the dunes area I arrived at the eastern end of Praia dos Ingleses. This area was very nice, but as I headed west this became my least favorite beach!Looking back towards where I entered the beach areaThe sand dunes right up against the edge of the water!Taking a little climb up the dunesThey’re bigger (and longer) than you think!And here’s why I dislike the rest of Praia dos Ingleses – very little beach front (maybe this is high tide?), which is lined by private residences, making access difficult. This is also a very touristy area.
I’m going to finish the day by traveling back to the western part of the island, to an area called Santo Antonio de Lisboa. This is a cute little village known for its sunset views. Mode of transport: Uber ($5).
Another $5 Uber returned me to the city.
Sidenote: I’ve been asked if I’ll be changing the journal’s header picture. I kind of doubt it. In my mind, it’ll be hard to top that picture (and my experiences) from last year’s visit to Easter Island!
Wednesday, March 11 – Florianopolis
I think I’m going to keep today rather low-key. My plan is to make a return visit to Barra da Lagoa, where I’m going to visit a sea turtle conservation facility. And the nice part is I can make the round trip using the executivo bus! I find the bus trips very relaxing, kind of like the trains in Europe – just sit back and watch the scenery go by.
Waiting for the bus at the terminal in the city centerProjeto TAMAR (with TAMAR being an abbreviation of Tartarugas Marinhas, Sea Turtles) originated in 1980 and supports the identification and preservation of not only sea turtles, but also sharks and other sea wildlife. The Florianopolis center is one of 22 facilities in Brazil. I discovered that Gisele is from this area, and obviously a supporter of the projectMy first souvenir from the trip! A nice companion to the Charles Darwin Foundation t-shirt I bought in the Galapagos last year. $17 to a good cause!
The bus to Barra da Lagoa passed by another inland lake on the island called Lagoa da Conceição. There isn’t a lot of convenient public access or walking areas around the lake, so I didn’t stop there. But I did take a couple pictures from the bus (not the greatest quality!)…
Options to get around the island are (in descending order of cost): rental car, taxi, uber, executivo bus, basic bus. Today I was heading to the eastern part of the island, which is about an hour trip, so I went with the second least expensive option. I was able to take the “executive” bus direct to my destination (with no transfers), and it tops the “basic” bus in that it is less crowded and has air conditioning. The cost? $2.25 each way.
My chariot for the day!
I was able to pick up the bus close to my hotel, which was nice. The stops along the route are not announced or indicated, but I knew I was going to the end of the line (at the beach!), so that made it pretty simple. I also used Google Maps on my phone to track my progress.
My destination is Barra da Lagoa, a small fishing village with some tourist shops and a nice long beach (coincidently also named Barra da Lagoa!).
Some souvenir stands by the beachGood crowd for a Friday!I tried taking some pictures of surfers in action, but failed miserably! These two were easier to catch (along with the lifeguard station).Walking on the beach is a fav activity – and this one is perfect! Nice and long with hard-packed sand. Let’s go!A little bit further now……a little bit further now……passed along the way (kind of liked the picture!)……okay, I guess I’ll head back now.
Adjacent to the village is a hiking trail that led to some surprises…
Another beach! Called Prainha da Barra.And a lagoon! (Piscinas Naturais da Barra da Lagoa)
Saturday, March 7 – Florianopolis
I was told that the south part of the island is less crowded and touristy. Sounds like a perfect Saturday destination! One problem: the executivo bus only operates until noon on Saturdays. Mmmm… I’ll take it south and figure out a way back.
I have a few different spots to see today, but once I arrive, they are all within walking distance of each other. I wasn’t going to the end of the line on the bus, so I again used Google Maps to track my path (and remember, you can do this offline), then requested a stop near my first destination (about a 50 minute trip).
Another beach ahead! But there’s something different about this one……it’s on a fresh water lagoon called Lagoa do Peri.And the crazy part is that it is basically across a road from the ocean (and another beach!).And here we are across the road, at Armacao Beach!Not a good walking beach however. Very soft sand! There was actually a walking path further away from the water.Little bit of a breeze today!I like these signs!To the left is a little island called Ponta das Campanhas, which is accessed by a pedestrian bridgeView on the bridge back to the mainlandThe bridge to Ponta das CampanhasA lucky resident of Ponta das CampanhasLooking from Ponta das Campanhas to yet another beach! This one is Matadeiro.Matadeiro was reached via a bridge and a short walking trailAn interesting library/bar along the trail!Cool place for a lifeguard station!Time to head back to the village
So, how did I get back to my hotel? Ended up using an uber. It was about a 40 minute ride. The cost: $8. I can’t say I’d be comfortable using uber in other parts of Brazil!
Sidenote: While sitting on a bench in the village today I had a nice conversation with a local gentleman. (he lived for a time in New Jersey and spoke excellent English) He was very cordial and thanked me multiple times for visiting his city. I have to say everyone I’ve encountered here has been very friendly. A pleasant experience!
Sunday, March 8 – Florianopolis
The executivo bus doesn’t run on Sunday, and most of the shops are closed, so it seems like the perfect time for a rest day. Well, it turned out to be a semi-rest day, as I did do a little walking around the city center and along the pedestrian path adjacent to the ocean.
A view of the Palacio Cruz e Sousa from its courtyardA stiff wind coming off the water todayCute vintage VW spotted along the pathBrazilian currency, the Real. Current exchange rate is $1 = 4.6 BR.
A return to Armenia today! The Armenian neighborhood in Buenos Aires, that is. Not a whole lot to write about unfortunately. Another leisurely day of roaming and hanging out in a park, reading and observing.
Passed by this cool apartment building on my way to Armenia……and this cute car!It’s a vintage Fiat though, so it’s more than likely been abandoned here due to mechanical issues!Two countries you don’t typically see intersecting!Stopped at this Armenian restaurant last year. Happy to see they’re still around! I’ll definitely have a sit-down meal here before I head back to the States.The perfect place to hang for a while!This was interesting. Four guys are playing a combination of doubles tennis and soccer. Basic tennis rules, but with a soccer ball and that sport’s method used to get it over the net (feet and head!).
Today’s pictures were rather lame, I know. Sorry about that! It was another good day though!
Wednesday, March 4 – transit from Buenos Aires to Florianopolis, Brazil
Raise your hand if you’ve heard of Florianopolis. I know it was off my radar. But thanks to the suggestion of my friend, and native Brazilian, Fernando, that’s my destination today.
I was looking for something off the beaten path as I traveled in Brazil. Frankly, the crime associated with the typical destinations in this country is a turnoff (shocking, I know!). Florianopolis is considered safe by Brazilian standards, and has a population of around half a million, which puts it near the bottom of the 50 most populous cities in the country. And did I mention that it has 42 beaches!
Florianopolis (also know as Floripa) is located in southern Brazil and is a popular summer vacation spot for Argentinians, but fortunately for me most schools went back into session this week. Perfect time to be here!
I elected to take a taxi to the airport. Very un-cheap of me, I know! Basically, when I’m going to the airport I want to be confident I’ll get there in a timely manner. And to take the bus, like I did on arrival, would require the use of a taxi for part of the trip anyway (from the hotel to the central bus terminal). So, the ride ended up costing me about $25 (ugh!).
The departure hall at Buenos Aires International Airport. My trip consisted of a short two hour non-stop flight.
This is painful to say, but I ended up taking a taxi from Hercílio Luz International Airport in Florianopolis to my hotel. Twice in one day, come on!! Basically, there were no other viable options (although, I have since discovered Uber is in play here, so maybe I’ll try that when I depart). So there’s another $15 to one of my least favorite service industry groups (although, to be fair, the performance of both drivers I had today was commendable).
My hotelA mini-apartment$65/night, including a nice breakfast buffet
Thursday, March 5 – Florianopolis
Most of the beaches here are not within walking distance of my hotel, so today I decided to concentrate on exploring the city center (with its many examples of colonial architecture) on foot.
Palacio Cruz e Sousa, an 18th century palace that is now a museumHistoric city centerOur Lady of Exile and St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral, ca 1908I had another lucky timing moment today! Walking through Praça XV de Novembro (a park adjacent to the cathedral), I noticed this trio setting up their equipment, so I sat on a bench and waited for their performance. And what a backdrop. That tree is amazing!They were awesome (even if I couldn’t understand the lyrics!)! I took these two pictures early in their performance. The area was soon packed. The guy on the right is a drummer; he’s sitting on his kit! It was pretty cool. There’s a microphone inside the box, and tapping near the top sounds like a snare, while banging lower mimics a bass.A pedestrian street next to the park Igreja São FranciscoMercado Público de Florianópolis – Central Market with shops, stalls, and restaurantsInside the Central MarketOutdoor stallsPonte Hercílio Luz – bridge connecting Santa Catarina Island (where Florianopolis is located) to the mainlandThe north shore of Florianopolis……it has nice pathways for bikes and pedestrians
It’s gotten warmer here over the last few days – going from a high in the mid 70s when I arrived to the mid 80s recently. Not so uncomfortable (I did come here for the warmer weather after all!), but I was spoiled at the start of the trip!
We’ll call today meandering Monday. I had another relaxing day of roaming around and spending time on a bench, doing some reading and contemplating life. Very deep, I know! Unlike last time though, when I ended up in some parks, today I ventured to the water. More specifically, Puerto Madero, a revamped dockside area. Its converted redbrick buildings contain restaurants and shops, and the surrounding high-rises house multinational corporations and high-value apartments.
I apologize if this is kind of boring, but I’m having a fun, relaxing time! It will get more interesting soon though; I’ll be back on the road Wednesday. Below are some pictures from the day…
Claustros Históricos Basílica del Pilar, ca 1732. This is in Recoleta, near my hotel.Centro Cultural Recoleta, also near my hotelThe French ambassador’s residenceThis ship is docked near where the ferries depart to Uruguay. I’m not sure what it is (could not get close access). Pretty cool though!This is Puente de la Mujer, a pedestrian bridgeIn the background is the Libertador Building (Edificio Libertador), it houses the Ministry of DefenseTo the left is the ARA Presidente Sarmiento, now a museum, originally built as a training ship for the Argentine Navy. She is considered to be the last intact cruising training ship from the 1890s.
A day focused on animals! First stop? The zoo! When I was here last year it was closed for renovation. There is still much work being done, and there unfortunately weren’t a lot of interesting animals to see. But it is a pretty park!
I’ll see you guys back on Bascom Hill in a few months!
On my way to the next stop, I passed through the Palermo Rose Garden. Claiming a collection of more than 18,000 roses, the garden is more than a century old. As well as the roses, it features a lake with a Greek-influenced bridge, an amphitheatre, an Andalusian patio and a poets’ garden with 26 busts of famous writers. I posted some pictures here last year, but here are a couple reminders…
My next stop was the Hipodromo Argentino de Palermo – a horse racing track with an origin dating back to 1876. When I was here last year, I visited the track, but no races were taking place. Not so today! The first race started at 3:30, and then continued every half hour into the evening. There is also a casino located on the grounds, but I didn’t check it out because: a) they only have slots and some electronic games (boring!); b) there is a dress code (surprisingly my shorts and t-shirt did not meet the criteria!); and c) after Monte Carlo, I couldn’t be bothered! (haha!) The best part about visiting the track? Free entry!!
I arrived around 3pm, and it wasn’t very crowded at all. That was great because I was able to get easy access to the paddock area!This guy, named TOUCH CABULERO, kept looking at me as he was led around the warm-up area. Maybe I should place a bet on him??Time to head to the track!!Down the stretch they come! (Good thing I didn’t place that bet, TOUCH CABULERO is nowhere to be seen!)
Friday, February 28 – Buenos Aires
Time for some rest! I did run a couple errands though, and also did a little trip planning.
ATM Update: I was able to withdraw 3,000 pesos (around $50). Whoo hoo! Makes that $6 fee a little less outrageous! Maybe I’ll try for 4,000 next time!
Saturday, February 29 – Buenos Aires
Happy Leap Day! Seems like I should do something special today. How about a visit to a part of the city that I didn’t get a chance to see last year? La Boca is known for its art culture and colorful buildings, and is also home to the football club Boca Juniors. The team plays their home matches in the Estadio Alberto J. Armando, popularly known as La Bombonera (the bonbon box). Upon arrival I also discovered that La Boca is a popular tourist area. Not my favorite thing, but it was still a fun place to see. (apparently the area turns a little dodgy after dark though, so I exited well in advance of that!)
I passed by this interesting building on the way to La BocaLa Bombonera. (it was hard to take a good picture of the stadium, with its setting amongst a neighborhood – kind of like trying to get a picture of Camp Randall from Breese Terrace!). The stadium holds around 50,000, and tickets are nearly impossible (or prohibitivly expense) to obtain. That’s because only members of the club’s supporters group are allowed to purchase season tickets. And there is currently a seven year wait to become a member. Not nearly as long as the wait for Packers season tickets, but still impressive!Exterior of a bicycle shopFire up the grill!Not sure what’s in this building…cool exterior though!
Steps update: averaging 17k steps per day over the first week of the trip. Not sustainable!
Sunday, March 1 – Buenos Aires
If it’s Sunday, then it’s time to head off to The Feria de San Telmo! Nestled in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, the San Telmo Fair is a Sunday-only outdoor market. Covering 13 blocks along the pedestrian street of Defensa, there are loads of antiques, artwork, knick knacks, and food available for purchase. Like La Boca, it’s kind of touristy, but worth the visit.
It’s hard to see, but the market runs down the length of this street.There are many shops and restaurants along the street where the market takes placeThere is also a permanent indoor portion of the market……with dining areas……and food stalls. Reminds me of a miniature version of Borough Market in London. An empanada stand!Came across this on my way back to the hotelMade a stop at the grocery store this afternoon. Thought you’d be interested in some pictures of the place. It’s huge – on two levels.Cheese and cured meatSeafoodEmpanada mania!The checkouts are jammed on Sunday afternoon!
Sidenote: I had a nice encounter with a couple locals today. On my way to the market I walked under what might have been a leaking window air conditioning unit that dripped a dirty liquid on my back. I didn’t even know it happen, but first a gentleman, and then a lady stopped to let me know what happened and then proceeded to clean off my back and arm with tissues. A very nice gesture! Gracias!
Saturday, February 22 and Sunday, February 23 – transit from Madison to Buenos Aires
It’s been a busy start to the decade. After a month in western Europe, I was back in Madison for just a couple days before heading off to NYC for Ali & Matt’s wedding. And what an amazing event it was! It was such an honor to participate! Thanks to you both!
It really was…
Then it was back to Madison for a few days, and now I’m making a return visit to South America. This is going to be a long transit! My cheapness is well documented, and so I’m sure my angling for the lowest-cost fare contributed to this marathon! The journey’s steps…
Departed my house at 9:30am Saturday en route to the pickup point for the bus to O’Hare (thanks for yet another drop off Chuck!).
Flight from Chicago to Toronto.
Overnight flight from Toronto to Santiago.
Get off the plane in Santiago, standby in the terminal for a couple hours, and then…
Get back on the same plane to Buenos Aires.
Take a bus from Ministro Pistarini International Airport to the city center.
Transfer to a shared minivan for transit to my hotel – arrived around 5pm (cost of the bus/minivan combo: $10)
Buenos Aires is 2 hours ahead of Madison, so the total travel time works out to be 29 1/2 hours. Not the worst I’ve been through, but still ugly (especially at my advanced age!!)! Fortunately, I was able to sleep for most of the 10 hour flight to Santiago. In fact, I only watched one movie – Parasite. I thought it was pretty good, but not sure if it was worthy of all the Oscar accolades. But then, what do I know, I liked Crash, and some consider that one of the worst Best Picture winners ever!
Correction!: I’ve discovered that Buenos Aires is actually three hours ahead of Madison. Therefore, my trip only took 28 1/2 hours! Wasn’t so bad after all!!
Waiting for the bus at the airport. This is a similar concept to what is done in Tokyo, just way less organized! (to be fair, pretty much everywhere is less organized than Japan!)My ApartmentIf it looks familiar, it is! I stayed at the same place last year. Then I was on the top (9th) floor facing the street, now I’m on the 6th floor in the back. I requested my old room, but someone has it booked for a month. Kick them out I say! (And yes, I know this is a blurry picture. Give me a break, I’ve been traveling for nearly 30 hours!)Last year: $71/night. This year: $54. I’ll talk more about the the currency exchange rates…
Monday, February 24 – Buenos Aires
I posted a lot of pictures during my stay last year in Buenos Aires, so I don’t anticipate as much this year. Just enough to keep you interested!
So, back to exchange rates. Last year’s trip: 40 Pesos to the Dollar. This year: 60. Yes! I’m using ATMs here to access local currency, and that’s an interesting experience. The limit on how much can be withdrawn per transaction is rather low. Last year the max was 2,000 pesos ($50). This year I tried requesting 6,000, but was rejected. The max amount on the default screen was once again 2,000, so I went with that. (Think about it, that’s around $32!). And here’s the interesting (or aggravating) part: The fees they charge are exorbitant! It works out to the equivalent of $6 (on a $32 withdrawal!). So, I looked back at my transactions from last year, and with the exchange rates then the fee still worked out to be $6. Obviously the banks are adjusting the Pesos they charge in fees in conjunction with the exchange rate to keep it at a consistent $6! As I mentioned in my posts last year though, I fortunately use the Schwab debit card, which charges no foreign transaction fees and (most importantly) refunds all ATM fees. Again, Yes!
I had another stupid-but-lucky travel experience today (a previous one being my stay in Monaco coinciding with the start of the historic car rally) – it’s Carnaval time! It was a national holiday and the festivities took place in the city center. It turned out to be a fun family-oriented event!
Here people dip their arms in a paint-like mixture that results in a psychedelic pattern being applied I’ve never seen this done before!There was also face paintingAnd, of course, food trucks!
And here are a couple bonus pictures from around the city center…
Plaza LavalleObelisco – unveiled in 1936, this landmark is made from Cordoba white stone Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo
Tuesday, February 25 – Buenos Aires
I’ll lead off by saying that the weather has been beautiful here – temps in the 70s with low humidity. Makes for a perfect day of strolling and relaxing reading in the park. Sounds like a plan!
Travel Note: Those of you that have been following along here know that my South America trip last year was pretty manic. My intent is to calm it down this year! Less countries. Longer durations. More relaxation. Will probably make for less interesting journal entries. Apologies!
Before I make my way to the parks though, I’m going to stop by the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Why go to a Museum on such a glorious day? Because it’s free Tuesday! (the cheap one is saving $3 on the entry fee!) I posted a bunch of pictures from this lovely museum last year, so here are just a couple reminders…
And as I said, I spent the rest of the day roaming through some of the beautiful parks in the city. Just sitting on a bench; reading and watching the world go by. Sounds boring, but it wasn’t! (I still managed to accumulate 20k steps!)
Ended the day at a craft fair located in (another!) nearby park
Wednesday, February 26 – Buenos Aires
When I walked out the door today I had no plan. It ended being a little bit more of the same from yesterday. I gravitated towards the city center though, with less of the parks.
Plaza de Mayo from a different angleCan you spot the Obelisco?This is for the nieces. Maybe he still is alive…and running a parking garage in BA!?!My go-to spot for food! That’s about 40 cents per empanada. Two will fill me up!No sit-down meals here!Time for a fuel price check! Converts to $3.29/gal.
Saturday, February 8 and Sunday, February 9 – transit from Paris to Madison
I’m writing this at 2:40am on Monday in Madison, so, sadly, I have not avoided jet lag on the return trip!
The journey from my Paris hotel to the airport was just as I like it – taxi avoidance! I had a 5 minute walk to the Metro station, followed by a short ride to Gare du Nord, where I picked up the express train to Charles de Gaulle. Total time: 1 hour. Total cost: €10.
And as we entered the airport, with the train running above ground and parallel to the auto lanes, I noticed a massive traffic jam. So, Travel Tip: take the train to Charles de Gaulle!
Train to the airportFor my return flight I found another good deal on a business class ticket using miles! Air Canada to Toronto, with a short hop to Chicago.Lunch is served! The starter……followed by the main (could I get a wine refill please!)……cheese, crackers and port……dessert and Bailey’s……concluded with a pre-landing snack. I was full, and a little buzzed!
Unfortunately, my return wasn’t glitch-free. I was scheduled to arrive in Chicago around 4pm, and I was to follow that with a bus ride to Madison, arriving around 8pm on Saturday. Well, my departure from Paris was delayed just enough to result in me missing the Chicago connection in Toronto (and I mean just – probably by 10 minutes!). I was able to get a later flight, but that got me to O’Hare around 10pm, so I just got a hotel at the airport for the night. Oh well. I took the bus the following morning, with an arrival in Madison around noon.
And here’s what I came home to! Remind me again, when do I leave for Buenos Aires?
Odds and Ends…
I forgot to mention my final souvenir purchase (thanks for the reminder Buck!) – a refrigerator magnet from the Monet Museum!
Budget: Even with the extra night in Chicago, I ended up coming in well under my default budget of $200/day. Of course, using miles for the flights didn’t hurt!
Steps: Paris is a great walking city, but it is rather spread out. Here are my daily step counts while there:
Monday: 22k
Tuesday: 23k
Wednesday: 27k
Thursday: 30k
Friday: 26k
I was ready for that relaxing business class experience!
(I only used the Metro three times during my stay: from the train to the hotel on arrival; to the flea market on Monday; and from the hotel to the airport train on departure)
I finished the trip with 546k steps, averaging 16k per day.
Final Thoughts: I had a wonderful time!. And I like Kari’s suggestion of calling the whole trip my 60th birthday celebration! (rather than focusing on the actual birthday, which was, shall we say, less than extraordinary!)
Thanks to everyone for following along! And for all of your comments too; I enjoy hearing from you while I’m on the road. I’ll be back in a couple weeks as I make a return visit to South America! But until then, I’m off to New York City for Ali & Matt’s wedding!!
I led off the day with a trip to Retromobile. The place was packed with people. Let me just say that the classic car hobby is alive and well! No wonder I can’t afford a Mini!! And this was a Thursday; I’d hate to see what it’s going to be like on the weekend.
After a couple of hours fighting through the crowds I’d decided it was time to head on to other thingsThere was a lot to see here, but I think I enjoyed the tranquility of the auction previews moreLook at the mass of people in the background!I did have a chance though to catch a glimpse of a couple more of my all-time favs, including this Aston Martin DB4 GT Zagato……and a Lamborghini MiuraHey! There’s another BMW 507 and MB Gullwing! They’re everywhere!
My next stop was a visit to the Catacombs of Paris (thanks for the suggestion Ed!). These are underground ossuaries which hold the remains of more than six million people in a small part of a tunnel network built to consolidate Paris’ ancient stone quarries. This ossuary was created as part of an effort to eliminate the city’s overflowing cemeteries. Preparation work began after a series of gruesome cemetery basement wall collapses in 1774. Beginning in 1786, nightly processions of covered wagons transferred remains from most of Paris’ cemeteries to a mine shaft opened into the ossuary. It remained largely forgotten until it became a novelty-place for concerts and other private events in the early 19th century; after further renovations it was opened to public visitation in 1874.
Both walls are lined with bones and skulls!Markers indicate the origin of the remains – in this case, casualties from battle on April 28, 1789 during the French Revolution
I did a LOT of walking today (more on that to follow). Here a few pictures from my roaming…
It was beautiful day!The Luxembourg GardensThe PanthéonParis Opera House
Steps Update: I set a trip personal best today by accumulating 30,057 steps. And that put me over half a million steps for the trip! I’m averaging close to 16k steps per day, which is well in front of my South America pace. That trip was more than twice as long though!
Auction Results: Here are the prices achieved for the cars I highlighted in my Tuesday journal entry:
Mercedes Benz Gullwing: $1.2 million
BMW 507: $2.2 million
Porsche 904: $2.1 million
Jaguar D-Type: Did Not Sell. The estimate was $6.5-7.0 million. However, the high bid did not meet the reserve, which was likely the low value on the estimate.
Friday, February 7 – Paris
My last day in Paris, and the last day of my trip. It’s gone by so fast, but I’ve had a great time!
It’s a beautiful day in Paris, so I think I’ll just roam around and take in the sights. But first, there’s one stop I have to make…
A trip to Paris would not be complete without a visit to Angelina’sMy second sit-down (semi) meal of the trip! I’m here to indulge in Angelina’s amazing hot chocolate and their (her?) famous dessert – the Mont Blanc. (My guilt is somewhat lessened by the record number of steps yesterday!)
Okay, I need to walk this off!
Tuileries GardenCarrousel Arc de TriompheLouvre MuseumPlace de la Concorde and Fontaine des MersSacré-CœurThe area behind Sacré-Cœur is one of my favorite parts of ParisI bought a couple paintings here in the past
Observation: I mentioned previously that Vaduz is pristinely clean. Well, Paris is a dump. There is trash, cigarette butts and litter everywhere (Not helped by the fact that they still use paper tickets for the Metro. Really?); copious amounts of graffitti; and dog droppings on the sidewalk. But hey, it’s Paris, so they can get away with it!
I’ll have some final thoughts on the trip and a narrative of my return to Madison in my final entry. Stay tuned!
Okay, so most of these next three days are probably going to bore you to death. One of the main reasons I traveled to Paris was to attend the classic car show, Retromobile. In conjunction with that, three auctions are also being held here this week. My plan is attend the previews for two of the auctions. (I’m going to the previews, rather than the auctions, because they are free to attend!) I’ll only post a few pictures from the car events.
Today’s preview was held at Place Vauban, which is a semi-circular square located adjacent to Les Invalides. The venue was basically a tent set up in the square, with a clear plastic roof.
Les Invalides in the background (kind of an imposing sight!)
I was fortunate in that a few of my all-time favorite cars were in the auction. I’ll only include those pictures here…
1964 Porsche 904 GTS1954 Mercedes Benz 300 SL Gullwing1958 BMW 5071955 Jaguar D-Type
I also made a return visit to one of my favorite museums – the Musee d’Orsay. It’s a favorite not only for its content, but also its setting – a former railway station built between 1898 and 1900.
The view from the roof out on to the river Seine
Also, in my walking around today I passed by Notre Dame again, but this time from a different perspective…
Wednesday, February 5 – Paris
Cars and a museum again today!
I attended another auction preview today. But for me, this visit was more about the venue than the cars. (Although there were some great cars up for auction!) The auction is to be held Thursday at the Grand Palais, an exhibition hall and museum complex located on the Champs-Élysées. Construction began in 1897. Here a few pictures from the preview…
I also corrected a major oversight on my part by taking a tour of the Monet Museum (Musée Marmottan Monet). I can’t believe I overlooked this previously!
The benefits of traveling during the winter (and coronavirus?) season – lack of crowds!Although the d’Orsay was fairly crowded. This museum is off the beaten path, so I’m sure that is a factor as well. Either way, I like it!This Monet painting from 1872, Impression, Sunrise, is credited with inspiring the name of the Impressionist movement.
And I’ll close with some random shots from my roaming around the city these past two days…
This is The Flame of Liberty, a full-sized, gold-leaf-covered replica of the flame that sits atop the torch on the Statue of Liberty
