Tim's Travel Journal

Sunday, March 15 – Luang Prabang

A rather uneventful (and relaxing!) day. I did some Journal catch-up (a big post), minor trip planning (most is complete), and had a little pool time, with a complimentary poolside glass of watermelon juice. Many thanks!

Travel Note: Following my comments concerning Chinese tourists in my last JE, I received a rebuttal. Chuck has traveled to China, is a great friend, and is someone whose opinion I respect. In a short note, he just wanted to let me know that “The Chinese are wonderful people”. I have no doubt that they are, and I even commented on the nice interaction I had with the small group I encountered while visiting the temples across the river.

So, I just want to reiterate: My comments are a generalization of the Chinese tourists I’ve interacted with while visiting many countries across several years. Now, it’s probably true that I tend to remember the negative encounters more clearly than the positive, which is too bad.

While revisiting my impression of Chinese tourists, the term “Ugly American” came to mind. You’ve probably heard it being used; shorthand for the stereotypical, entitled U.S. tourist, representing:

• Arrogance and cultural insensitivity
• The assumption that everyone speaks English
• Loud, demanding behavior while traveling abroad
• A “know-it-all” attitude regarding foreign policy

I try to avoid these behaviors while traveling, but I’m confident that at some (several) point(s) along the way I’ve been accused of being an Ugly American. Do I like the generalization? Of course not. I should therefore be more careful when making similar generalizations of others. Thanks Chuck, for providing a voice of reason.

Monday, March 16 – Luang Prabang

I’m going back to school today! In the form of (another) cooking class.

The local Tamarind Restaurant also offers a cooking school. The class starts there at 9am. It’s a 20 minute walk from my hotel.

Tamarind Restaurant

Welcome drink of cinnamon tea.

Like my cooking class in Chiang Mai, we started out with a visit to the local market…

This is our instructor, Sit, describing some of the local produce.

Unlike in Chiang Mai, we didn’t buy anything at the market; it was just a tour.

The seafood section.

The butcher.

Following a half hour drive, we arrived at the cooking school, located outside the town of Luang Prabang.

The school is in a beautiful, tranquil setting…

…with its own little produce garden.

The dining area.

The preparation of each course began with instructions, demonstrations, and the disbursement of ingredients.

Jeow is a dip/salsa that we ultimately ate with sticky rice.

Cooking the ingredients over the fire.

The finished course – eggplant version.

(Unfortunately, while busy preparing the various courses, I wasn’t always able to get pictures along each step of the process. Like in this case, where I have no shots of the Jeow prep)

The sticky rice steam pots.

Fluffing the rice (in as much as sticky rice can be fluffed!)

Result! Very good!

Our next course was…

…Mok Pa, a traditional Lao steamed fish recipe.

The fish and herb mixture is wrapped in banana leaves in preparation for steaming.

Here Sit demonstrates how to wrap the banana leaf prior to steaming.

My completed banana leaf wrap! (I did receive some help though!)

Next up, we have…

…Stuffed Lemongrass, in which a stalk of lemongrass is stuffed with a ground chicken and herb filling, and then deep fried.

Sit demonstrating how to prepare the lemongrass stalk for the stuffing.

Cutting the stalk and then getting the stuffing inside was a little tricky. I had some help!

Cooking the Lemongrass stalks.

Our last course was…

…Laap is a spicy, tangy meat salad, made with minced meat (buffalo, in this case) and tossed with fresh herbs.

Browning the meat.

Ready to eat!

Speaking of eating…it’s that time!

Including the Mok Pa reveal.

Wait! What about dessert??

Calm down, it’s covered.

Preparing Purple Sticky Rice with Coconut Sauce.

Boiling indicates it’s ready!

Yummmm!

And we even received a small cookbook following the class!

This was a fun day! We started at 9am, and returned to the restaurant a little after 2pm. The cost of the class was 40 USD, and there were five of us participating:

• Woman from Ohio
• Woman from Paris
• Two friends from Singapore

And in a close call, my favorite course was the Stuffed Lemongrass.

So, how does this compare to the class I took in Chiang Mai? My thoughts:

• Chiang Mai class was less expensive (of course this would be the first thing I list!)
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class offered options for each course
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class purchased ingredients from the market
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class ate each course after it was prepared, rather than eating everything all at once, which we did today
• I felt like the Chiang Mai class was a little more hands-on for the students
• The setting of today’s class was beautiful
• Instructors in both classes were very good
• Meals in both classes were very good

A slight preference to Chiang Mai…

Okay, I am stuffed! (even after skipping breakfast). Time to head back to the hotel for a rest.

I did eventually get motivated and went for a swim in the pool (Today’s complimentary drink: Lemonade), but that was about it for the day. Dinner was not necessary!

Tuesday, March 17 – Luang Prabang

I have more exploring of Luang Prabang to do today…

A little bit of a line waiting to get gas this morning. I’ve been told that there are limited supplies here, due to the situation in Iran.

Fuel Price Check: 32,980 LAK/liter = 5.83 USD/gallon. Wow!

A view from town of Mount Phousi / Wat Chomsi stupa.

Wat Pak Khan Khammungkhun

“The Temple at the Mouth of the Nam Khan River” was founded in 1737. However, it has undergone numerous renovations, most recently in 2013.

This is the approach to the Wat Xieng Thong complex.

Wat Xieng Thong translates to “Temple of the Golden City“. It was built between 1559 and 1560 by King Setthathirath, and is one of the most important of the Lao monasteries.

The entrance fee is 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

A Sim is the central shrine hall of a Laotian temple. Wat Xieng Thong’s Sim is composed of nine cascading roofs and is decorated by gold stenciling

A number of restorations have taken place to maintain the temple; the most recent in 2013.

Tree of Life Mosaic, added in the 1960s

I like this picture.

I was waiting to get a shot with nobody going in, or coming out, of the Sim. It was taking a while, and then this woman came by, and it seemed perfect.

Entrance to the Sim.

The Royal Funerary Carriage House

The Funeral Carriage, which stands nearly 40 feet high.

The house and the carriage are ca. 1960.

The Red Chapel…

…named for its red-stucco exterior decorated with colorful, intricate glass mosaics.

My next stop was the Wat Sensoukharam complex.

The temple was originally built in 1718 during the reign of King Kitsarath, and was restored to its current state in 1957. Also known as Wat Sen, it is believed to have been built using 100,000 stones from the Mekong River, giving the temple its name, roughly translating to “Temple of 100,000 Treasures”.

The Chapel of the Standing Buddha

Also within the complex is this shrine to…a VW Bug!?!

A little ways down the road is this cool 1930s era Citroen…

…used as a promotional item for a neighboring restaurant.

I am now outside the National Museum (former Royal Palace). It is midday, when the museum is closed for a couple hours. Bad timing…

…but some good timing too, because this little photo shoot happened to be taking place.

This is Haw Pha Bang, which sits on the southeastern corner of the National Museum grounds. The building is relatively new, complected in 2006, and was designed specifically to house the Phra Bang, the most sacred Buddha image in Laos and the namesake of the city.

I took this picture from an elevated patio, that also happened to have a shaded area with some bench seating. A perfect place for a break! (It is definitely warmer today – with a high in the upper 80s)

While seated here a young woman came by to ask me a few tourist-related questions. Turns out it was part of a university course she was taking. A fun diversion!

Okay, there’s a pool calling my name…(today’s drink: watermelon juice)

Tonight, I finally had the opportunity to get back to the Khaiphean for dinner.

This evening I splurged a little and went with Red Chicken Curry, Steamed Rice, and…

…a Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie (of course!). Total Cost: 144k LAK (6.75 USD).

Did not disappoint!

Following dinner, I had another “Good Timing” moment. I made the two block walk from the restaurant down to the river just in time to catch the sunset as I stood at the ferry landing…

On my return to the hotel, I walked back by the the National Museum, with the night market now in full swing…

That’s Haw Pha Bang in the background.

Wednesday, March 18 – Luang Prabang

My mornings here have generally been rather leisurely, and today was no exception.

I followed breakfast with some Journal work (a big Entry), and, of course, some pool time! (today’s drink: watermelon juice)

My complimentary sunset cruise has been booked for this evening. I’m to be down at the river by 4:30pm for check-in and boarding…

Nice cruise boat!

We were served a complimentary glass of Butterfly Pea Juice with nuts and banana chips. There were other drinks and snacks available at an additional cost.

(Never had Butterfly Pea Juice before, it was very good! It’s derived from flowers.)

Recognize this temple? It’s Wat Chomphet, which I visited a few days ago.

(the one with the 123 step accent)

There were around 20 of us onboard for the two hour cruise.

(Good thing it wasn’t a three-hour tour; if that was the case, I might have passed!)

Riverfront restaurants.

This was a fun little cruise. I would say though that last night’s sunset was a little nicer, but that’s not the fault of the cruise operator!

Travel Note: While on the cruise, I had a conversation with a woman from New York City who, with her husband, was on a private multi-day tour with a local Laotian guide. It was so timely and coincidental that I wanted to pass it along.

She had mentioned how their guide was steering them away from the few tourist-heavy spots here in Luang Prabang, like Phousi Hill / Wat Chom Si. In that vein, and without any prompting from me, she said that her guide had a “severe antagonism” towards the Chinese. I just thought it was interesting that a local guide, who relies on tourism to support himself, displays that type of attitude towards a particular segment of his client base.

As I made my way to the hotel, I was looking for a place to get a quick bite to eat…

…and I remembered this dumpling place across the street from my hotel.

I went with the recommended Cabbage & Pork Dumplings (15 count – I was told they were small!), and…

…Lemon Soda. Total Cost: 80 LAK (3.75 USD).

Very good!

Thursday, March 12 – transit from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang, Laos

I have a 3pm flight today, and checkout from my apartment is 11am. I booked a taxi for noon, which will get me to the airport a little earlier than I need to be, but that’s okay; I could either hangout at the apartment complex or the airport. I chose the latter.

The 15 minute ride to the airport cost 200 THB (6.50 USD). I probably could have saved a couple bucks using the ride-hailing app Grab that I talked about previously, but I’ve been told that they’re rather unreliable – arriving late and canceling pickups.

Chiang Mai International Airport

Apologies for the lame picture – I would have had to walk a ways to get a full (and decent) shot of the building’s exterior.

It’s a fairly big airport, with separate International and Domestic terminals.

The International Check-in area…well, for most airlines.

The check-in area for the airline I’m flying today, Lao Airways, is kind of off in a little separate area by itself (exclusivity, or also-ran??).

The departure area.

The one hour flight to Luang Prabang was in a rather small plane with 2×2 seating. It was probably 90% full. Even with such a short flight, we were served a snack of some sweet bread (maybe banana?). It was good! The cost of the one-way flight was 160 USD. Seems a little pricey, right? But I think there are some departure and/or arrival taxes included in the price.

Travel Note: A visa is required for U.S. citizens traveling to Laos. It can be obtained on arrival or in advance via an online portal. I went with the advance method. The cost was 52 USD, and the turnover time was 3 days.

At check-in in Chiang Mai, the Lao Airways agent did ask to see a copy of my visa, and proof of my onward ticket out of Laos. Upon arrival at Luang Prabang International Airport, I presented my visa to the immigration agent, and he asked me nothing.

(BTW, I packed the new hair clippers in my carry-on backpack! No issues.)

I was hoping to get a picture of our plane after landing, but it was raining, so not very convenient (especially with an umbrella in one hand, we deplaned outside). Sorry!

I used an ATM at the airport to get some cash and then booked a shared minivan for a ride to my hotel. The cost was 100,000 Lao Kip (4.75 USD). I was drop off number two on a 15 minute ride. Utilizing a private taxi would have tripled the cost. No way!

I’m staying at the Luang Prabang Pearl Hotel.

99 USD/night, including breakfast

I’m here for 9 nights.

The (rainy) view from my balcony

I’m (kind of) ashamed to admit that I was complicit in a little scam initiated by the hotel owner, with Booking.com being the victim. I use that website quite a bit for my hotel reservations, as was the case in this instance. The booking was non-refundable, but I was to make payment directly to the hotel upon arrival. Well, the hotel’s owner asked me to cancel the reservation with Booking.com and then pay him directly at the same rate. In exchange, he would provide me with a room upgrade and a complimentary Mekong River Sunset Cruise.

I was concerned about being stuck with paying for the guaranteed booking, and then being charged again for the direct payment to the hotel. However, I have the Booking.com app on my phone, so utilized that to submit a cancellation request. Then, in real time, the hotel owner received the request and immediately approved it, stating any cancellation cost would be waived. That was followed by my receiving a confirmation of the no-cost cancellation via the app. Done deal.

With the rainy weather, and my lack of initiative, I decided to just stay in for the night!

Lao Kip (1 USD = 21,300 LAK)

Friday, March 13 – Luang Prabang

Friday the 13th, again! It seems like we just had one last month!

The hotel entrance

The breakfast area (early, pre-crowd)

There’s a nice selection at breakfast. Very Asian though, which is fine.

Also included was the choice of a freshly made juice or smoothie. I went with the mango smoothie this morning (shocking, I know!).

Today’s plan will follow my usual arrival routine – just roam around and get familiar with the area. Fortunately it has stopped raining, and the temperatures here are a little cooler than Chiang Mai (low in 60s, high in 80s).

A Luang Prabang Roundabout!

The Switzerland Consulate

Luang Prabang was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, being recognized for blending Lao architecture, European colonial buildings, and over 30 Buddhist temples.

I like the Colonial European architecture.

Luang Prabang was a key part of the French Protectorate of Laos from 1893 to 1953, serving as the royal residence within French Indochina.

Luang Prabang is situated on the Mekong River.

This ferry provides transport across the river.

I can see a ferry ride in my future!

I’m now alongside the Nam Khan River, which runs through Luang Prabang and feeds into the Mekong River.

I returned to the hotel mid-afternoon for a rest. I had skipped lunch though, so was getting a little hungry by 5pm. I did a restaurant search via Google Maps, and found one with very good reviews that was a 20 minute walk away.

Khaiphaen Restaurant

I like their mission…

“Khaiphaen vocational training restaurant brings you classic Lao dishes alongside creative international fare, nestled in a beautiful location in Luang Prabang. Powered by Friends-International we guide young people in training as they build brighter futures, acquiring the skills they need for stable employment. So, every bite you enjoy with us at Khaiphaen brings a delicious dining experience and supports a powerful social cause!” (taken from their website)

It was pretty quiet at the time of my late-afternoon arrival. I’m glad I got here when I did though, because it started to fill up by the time I left (they also take reservations).

I chose the Mekong River Fish and Coconut Laksa with Rice Noodles and Banana Blossoms (65k LAK = 3 USD)…

…and a Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie (45k LAK = 2 USD).

And a bonus…they take credit cards!

They were both very good! The smoothie was especially amazing! I’ll definitely be back to Khaiphaen.

So how does this compare to my favorite Chiang Mai dinner combo – Dumplings and a Pineapple Orange Smoothie?

• Price: Chiang Mai slightly less (50 cents)
• Credit Card: Yes to both
• Taste: They’re both amazing!

I’m calling it a tie! But Khaiphaen has a few days to change my mind!

Following dinner, I took a walk through the night market.

Say cheese!

Wow! These pastries look good! (okay, I bought a couple to take back to the hotel…)

A fun day! With 19k steps (that should provide a little bump to my pathetic average!)

Saturday, March 14 – Luang Prabang

A couple more exterior views of the hotel…

The arrow points to my balcony.

I chose a banana smoothie this morning. And yes, those are dumplings (potstickers)!

I’m going to head across the Mekong today, to check out some lesser-visited temples.

Travel Note: While walking around yesterday I noticed many Chinese tour groups in town. Mainly congregating around the more popular places to see and visit. And after talking with the hotel owner, he confirmed that Luang Prabang is a popular destination for Chinese tourists. This is especially so since the opening of a high-speed rail service from China to Laos in late 2021. Now, I haven’t been to China, but I have had interactions with Chinese tourists many times throughout my travels. I’ve found that they tend to be loud, pushy, and are not necessarily concerned with the personal space or consideration of others. That’s just their culture. I’m not saying it’s wrong. What I am saying is that I would prefer to avoid them, when possible. So, that’s why I’m taking the road (or ferry in this case) less traveled today!

The ferry carries motorbikes,…

…vehicles, and pedestrians.

The fair for a motorbike is 8k LAK. For a pedestrian it is 3k LAK. For a local that is. The fair for a pedestrian who also happens to be a foreigner is 10k LAK (50 cents). What?!? Over triple the cost! Hahaha; for 50 cents, I think it’s more than reasonable.

Approaching the landing…

The images on the northeastern part of the map are the temples I hope to visit today.

This is the pathway from the ferry landing to the temples. That’s a truck approaching in the distance. It’s a nice path, just a little narrow!

It’s a one mile walk to the first temple.

From this point forward on the path is the access to the various temples. The cost to continue on is 30K LAK (1.50 USD).

The 123 steps up to Wat Chomphet. Fortunately the guard dog didn’t attack me!

At the top of the staircase are two stupas…

…that contain the remains of King Ounkham (reigned from 1895-1904) and his mother, Princess Khammoun.

Wat Chomphet was built in 1888 by the Siamese military commander Chaophraya Surasakmontri, while he was stationed in Luang Prabang to suppress the Chinese Haw, who had stormed the town the previous year.

The site provides some nice views of the town of Luang Prabang, and the Mekong River. This is the view looking west.

Looking across the river to Luang Prabang.

Notice the haziness? Sadly, it is caused by agricultural burning for land clearing, which has been intensified recently by commercial farming demand. This burning takes place between February and April every year.

Now looking to the east. The mouth of the Nam Khan River, as it enters the Mekong, can be seen in the middle-left of the picture.

I am now approaching Wat Long Khoune.

Also known as the “Monastery of the Happy,” it is an 18th Century temple which was formerly a royal retreat, and served as a meditation space for kings before their coronations.

Note the warriors guarding the entrance.

Beautiful murals inside.

The monk approved my taking his picture.

The monks’ living quarters. There was no entry allowed beyond this point.

Travel Note: What is the saying, there are exceptions to every rule? Well, following my recent generalization of Chinese tourists, I want to relay an alternate experience…

On the ferry ride with me were a group of three Asians, also on foot. We walked up from the landing at the same time, not conversing, and then parted ways when I started making my way down the path towards the temples.

As I was visiting Wat Long Khoune, they approached in a tuk tuk. We were the only tourists on the site, and acknowledged each other when they arrived. We continued to walk the area separately until we eventually met at the temple. We tried talking to each other but were unsuccessful until one in the group produced a voice-recognition translator on their phone. It turns out they were from China, and we were able to have a nice conversation for a few minutes. They even wanted to have their picture taken with me. As they were getting ready to move on to the next temple, they asked if I wanted to ride along. I thanked them, but declined, telling them that I preferred to walk. I saw them once more as their tuk tuk passed me later going in the opposite direction back towards the ferry landing. I very nice encounter!

Exceptions…

Wat Than Sakkarin was built in 1902 during the reign of King Khamsouk Sakkarin.

Its original function was as a place of riverside meditation for the King. It was later converted into a temple.

A view from the path.

What are you looking at??

Wat ​Had Siew dates to the early 18th Century. As can be seen, it is now undergoing restoration.

Note the bamboo scaffolding.

Today’s visit to these remote temples was right in my wheelhouse: off-the-beaten path, devoid of tourists. The only site where I encountered others was Wat Long Khoune, where I talked with my new Chinese friends.

As I made my way back to the ferry landing, I did pass by a few other tourists heading in the opposite direction.

Back on the ferry.

The hill across the river in Luang Prabang is Mount Phousi, a popular destination. It is crowned by the Wat Chom Si stupa, which is hard to identify in this picture.

I walked by the entrance to the hill a of couple times yesterday; in each instance it was mobbed with people and a line of minivans.

Now approaching the ferry landing.

I pass by the entrance to Mount Phousi on my way back to the hotel. If there are no crowds, I may go for it…

And the pathway to Mount Phousi is clear! More steps though. Ugh!

Part way up the hill is Wat Tham Phousi.

It is known for its unique setting amongst the rocks.

(Note the stairway to the right)

The stairway leads to this cave temple, which houses an ancient Buddha statue styled in the Pha Kachai manner; one of the oldest of its kind.

To access the summit of Mount Phousi and Wat Chom Si required an entrance fee of 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

Reclining Buddha

More steps…

Two out of three are impressed! Me too!

Inside Wat Chom Si. It dates to 1804, during the reign of King Anourouth.

The view from inside the temple.

The former Royal Palace (ca. 1904), now the The National Museum.

Approaching the gilded stupa at the peak of Mount Phousi.

Looking south at the Nam Khan River.

Looking west at the Mekong River.

Making my way back down to street level.

Man! Another fun day. With a lot of walking and a LOT of step climbing!

No lunch again, and I’m getting a little hungry. Maybe I can stop somewhere on my way back to the hotel?

It’s smoothie time!

Mango was recommended. Yes! (35k LAK = 1.65 USD)

Yummmm!

(I’m going to have to find a fix for my smoothie addiction when I get back to Madison! Maybe I’ll just make my own??)

I got back to the hotel around 3:30pm, and immediately hit the pool. And while I was poolside, the hotel owner graciously brought me a pineapple smoothie. Thank you!

I really wanted to get back to Khaiphaen for dinner, but it’s been a long day. And after these two smoothies, I actually wasn’t very hungry!

Sunday, March 8 – Chiang Mai

Sadly, another rather low-key day. I did some Journal work and researched the procedure for reserving and purchasing Japanese train tickets online. My first trip is slated for April 14 on the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train), and the one month booking window will open on March 14.

Thailand Facts for Travelers

• Vehicles operate on the left side of the road (like in the UK)
• The national language of Thailand is Thai. English is a key second language though. Everyone I’ve interacted with here in Chiang Mai and Bangkok spoke English.
• Thailand uses a hybrid electrical outlet that can accommodate 4 different types of plugs, including the U.S. style. However, only 2-prong U.S. plugs fit, so an adapter is required for 3-prong devices.
• The tap water here should not be consumed by foreigners.

Monday, March 9 – Chiang Mai

I’m motivated to get out and about today!

I was out the door (relatively) early, 9am, to take a walk around the circumference of where the Old City Wall once stood. The accompanying moat still exists.

Chiang Mai’s Old City was established in 1296 and measures roughly 1 mile square. The location of my apartment is pinned in the lower right.

I began in the southeast corner and followed a counterclockwise route…

I’m back at Katam Corner, where I ended on my Saturday walkabout.

Katam translates to “a trap to catch animals”. Two freshwater channels intersected at this corner where the water collected in a pond that was rich with fish. Fish Traps (Katam) were used to catch the bounty.

This is Tha Phae Gate. Its origin dates to 1296; however restoration work took place in the 1980s.

I’ve now reached the northeast corner, Si Phum.

Chang Phuak (White Elephant) Gate is the northern entrance to the Old City. In this area is the major evening street market that our food tour group visited, which includes the “Cowboy Hat Lady”.

Typically all that remains of the Old City wall are the corners and gates, but here some of the wall has also been preserved.

Hua Lin Corner. This translates to head (hua) of an aqueduct (lin).

Saun Dok Gate; the west side entrance to the Old City.

Ku Ruang Corner. This translates to a stupa-like structure (ku) containing the ashes of a person named Ruang.

Saen Rung Gate. The name evolved from “Suan Prung” (or sometimes Suan Ra), which can relate to “garden” or, according to some interpretations, “thrusting a spear,” referencing its grim past as a place where criminals were executed.

And now I’m back to Katam Corner.

This was a fun walk on a beautiful day!

As I trekked the circumference of the Old City, I made a diversion to a nearby temple…

The entrance to Wat Chiang Yuen.

First built in 1500s, the temple was abandoned during Burmese rule, and was reconstructed in 1794 by King Kawila.

The temple is known for its large chedi (stupa), which has a whitewashed square base.

An interesting and enjoyable diversion!

Okay, so I skipped breakfast, and am getting a little hungry. Where to?

I’m so predictable!

Tuesday, March 10 – Chiang Mai

Today I decided to focus on finalizing an Antarctica trip for next winter. And, I seriously spent most of the day on it! I mean, it is kind of an expensive proposition (for me, anyway), so I wanted to make sure I looked at all the possibilities.

I’m happy to say though that I did end up booking a cruise; although it wasn’t completed until after midnight! (mainly a result of having to deal with the time difference between Chiang Mai and the west coast of the U.S.)

I’m happy with the result. You know I love a deal (I’m cheap); and I was able to book a cabin (with a balcony) without paying a single supplement. Perfect!

(Have I peaked your interest for next year’s Journal?)

Sidenote: I read a news report that stated United Airlines has updated its contract of carriage to officially require that passengers use headphones/earphones while listening to audio or video on devices while onboard their flights. Effective February 27, 2026, refusal to comply may result in removal from the flight or a permanent ban. Hallelujah! This is one of my pet peeves. Hopefully other airlines will follow suit!

(And this rude behavior is not annoying just on flights, but in public spaces in general. Am I sounding like an old grouch? Sorry…)

Wednesday, March 11 – Chiang Mai

Well, I’m traveling to Laos tomorrow. After yesterday’s energy-draining day of research, today was casual Wednesday – Journal work, Laos prep, and …

…I mailed a birthday card to Maple.

Hopefully she’ll receive it by April 15th!

So, this being my last night in Chiang Mai, you know I had to go for some dumplings and a smoothie!

Have no fear though, because, Spoiler Alert!, I’ll be back here in Chiang Mai in a couple weeks…

(What?? I’ll explain my whole pathetic lack of proper trip planning story when I get back here following the visit to Laos)

Sidenote: Hard to believe it’s been 15 years…

Friday, March 6 – Chiang Mai

Okay, this is going to be one of those boring days for readers. Kind of a rest day, with some intermixed Journal work.

I did make it back to the mall for dinner though; for some dumplings and a smoothie, of course!

Saturday, March 7 – Chiang Mai

The laziness continues! I didn’t get out of bed until close to noon! Did some reading and watched some streaming. Useless, I know!

Sidenote: I just finished reading Destiny of the Republic by Candice Millard, about the assassination of President James Garfield. Very good. Although, it was published 15 years ago, so most of you have probably already heard of it! However, the Netflix limited series Death by Lightning was just released last fall, and is based on the book.

(While I’m on the subject, another great book by Candice Millard is The River of Doubt, the story of Theodore Roosevelt’s exploration of the Amazon. I read this during my 2019 winter escape to South America. Seemed appropriate.)

Okay, time to get my lazy backside out and about!

This afternoon I’m going to check out Wat Sri Suphan, aka The Silver Temple.

It’s a short 30 minute walk from my apartment.

For part of my journey, I chose to walk along the Mae Kha Canal.

I came close to regretting the choice of this route though; because a dog came running out after me, and nipping close at my legs. Damn! Again? Fortunately, no bites. Maybe I need to start carrying an anti-dog spray with me, if there is such a thing!

Before reaching The Silver Temple, I came across Wat Namtharam.

A little rundown, but still an interesting diversion.

Spotting this vintage Land Rover along the way was pretty cool!

The entrance to Wat Sri Suphan.

(I’m leaning to the right again; what the heck??)

The ticket cost is 50 THB (1.50 USD).

The entry pass.

Founded in the early 16th century, Wat Sri Suphan is one of Chiang Mai’s oldest temples. Though most of the original temple structure has been lost over time, it was recently restored utilizing local artisans.

The restoration of the temple began in 2004 and was completed in 2016. The craftspeople of the Wua Lai neighborhood, a district that has been renowned for its metalwork for over two centuries, collaborated on the restoration.

While aluminum comprises the majority of the cladding, silver is used to highlight the sacred elements.

Scenes from the life of Buddha, historic scenes representing the temple’s history, and scenes from mythology are all depicted in intricate, three-dimensional detail.

The metalwork is amazing; and really stands out in the sunlight.

The temple is situated in the Haiya district, the traditional silversmith area of the city, where workshops continue to operate.

This shop is open to the public, where you can create your own piece of metalwork.

Popular place!

I took a different route back to the apartment (bypassing the attack dog!).

In the background are the remains of a wall that once encircled the Old City of Chiang Mai.

This portion of the wall is called Katam Corner.

Travel Note: Today marks the halfway point of my trip. The time has generally gone by fast, probably because I’ve been on the move a fair amount. That being said, my time here in Chiang Mai has calmed things down a bit, which I think is a good thing.

Steps Update: Since we’re at the midpoint, let’s see how my steps are progressing: In a word, pathetic! I’m averaging 11k steps per day, well off last year’s World Record pace of 16.4k per day. Ugh!

Tuesday, March 3 – Chiang Mai

The complex where I’m staying has two separate buildings – A & B. Access is limited to each via a keycard, depending on where your apartment is located. In fact, this is a pretty secure complex; floor access is also controlled by the keycard, based on the apartment location.

Anyway, what I’m getting to is this: I’m staying in building B, and our pool is closed for maintenance. We therefore have access to the building A pool over the next few days. Let’s check it out…

This is definitely nicer than the B pool – larger pool, more deck area, and a nice overhang for shade.

I arrived up here around 8:30am; the reason why there’s no one else around!

I ended up going for a swim, followed by some reading and relaxing.

I was back to the mall for dinner, but the dumpling place was closed. What?!?

So instead I tried this stir fry stand.

I selected Rice with Thai Style Red Curry Egg and Minced Pork, 79 THB (2.50 USD). And, of course, a orange/pineapple smoothie! The stir fry was very good. (and you already know how I feel about the smoothie!)

Wednesday, March 4 – Chiang Mai

I was back at the pool this morning, and then decided to switch things up a bit and try a local restaurant for a late lunch/early dinner.

I chose this place based on its positive Google reviews.

It is just a short walk from my apartment.

Cool ceiling decoration!

When I arrived, I was the only customer, but a short time later a local couple came in.

I asked my server for a recommendation, and she suggested Sweet Red Pork Stew from the Burmese menu.

(The restaurant offers Burmese, Indian, and Thai dishes)

In the little dish on the plate with the cucumbers and carrots is marinated mango. This was all very good! The cost of the meal was 90 THB + 35 THB for the can of lemon tea. (125 THB = 4 USD)

I liked the local atmosphere of this restaurant, but it’s located on a busy street, so rather noisy. However, although it lacks this rustic local feel, the mall food is just as good, and is in a quiet(er) setting , has A/C, and takes credit cards! For 15 THB (50 cents) more, I could get dumplings and a smoothie at the mall. An easy choice (for me).

Following this meal, I made a grocery run and then was in for the night. Boring, I know!

Sidenote: The Burmese represent Thailand’s largest migrant nationality, and constitute about 70% of Burma’s overseas population.

Thursday, March 5 – Chiang Mai

I’m back at the pool this morning…

A rare sighting in this journal!

This is a reflection in the ceiling of the pool overhang. The girls have aligned their chairs to capture the slim amount of sunlight that has made its way onto the deck!

Today I actually did a little research into next winter’s trip. This is much earlier than typical, but my plan is Antarctica, and I’ve already discovered that I may be behind the curve, as some ships are already filling up for January through March of 2027. Better get after it!

Last year I did an Evening Street Food Tour in Marrakech, which I really enjoyed. When I discovered that something similar was offered here in Chiang Mai, I booked it for tonight.

The starting point of the tour was the Wat Lok Moli temple, about a 45 minute walk from my apartment. Here are a few sights from along the way…

Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center

Lanna Folklife Center

Wat Rajamontean

I arrived at our meeting spot a little early for the 5pm start, so had some time to roam around Wat Lok Moli…

It is not known when the temple was built, but it was first mentioned in a charter in 1367.

Viharn (Assembly Hall)

The Chedi

The food tour consisted of 6 different stops and 18 tastings (I think!). I wasn’t able to keep track of everything, so to follow are some scenes from the tour, and descriptions when possible!

Our first stop was a short walk from the temple. In this area are several food stands. The tour will conclude back here later tonight.

Khao Ka Moo (Braised Pork in Five Spices) – this was probably my favorite of the tour…

…Especially with the peppers added.

Our next stop featured pork belly and chicken, roasting in these earthenware jars.

There were 8 of us on the tour (max capacity) – surprisingly all from the U.S; California, Arizona, and Florida.

And my UW hat was recognized by some of the group!

Our mode of transportation between stops was this songtheaw truck.

We’ve now moved on to our next stop.

This is our guide, Moui, showing us Minced Water Buffalo meat (prior to cooking).

At the top is Gaeng Hang Le (Northern Thai Pork) Curry. The Minced Water Buffalo is on the bottom right.

To the upper right is Fermented Pork. It looks like it would be rather bland, but was actually very good.

We’ve now arrived at the Tha-nin Market at Sri-Watthana.

Here we’re tasting Sai Ua (Grilled Lemongrass) Sausage.

Being prepared is an eggs/greens stir fry.

Yes, those are insects!

We are still in the market, but have moved to a table that is off to the side where we can taste a multitude of things that were acquired here.

This is juice made with brown sugar and…

…Dried Roselle.

The Crispy Rice Cookies were good. I passed on the insects. I’m a wimp, I know!

This is the eggs/greens stir fry.

Here we have some sliced mango. And inside the bamboo shoots is sticky rice. The result? A simplified version of Mango Sticky Rice.

At top and bottom right is Jackfruit.

(notice the size of the insect pile has remained relatively constant – not many takers!)

These are Mango Plums. Tasty!

At top and to the right is Pomelo fruit. Looks like grapefruit, doesn’t taste as good.

In the middle is Tamarind. It tastes like a date.

Our next stop is this Burmese vegetarian restaurant.

This is Lahpet Thoke (Tea Leaf Salad), and Burmese Shan Pizza.

We are now back in the area where we started. This is our last stop, for dessert. We had some Bualoy Kai Whan (Tapioca Balls in Creamy Coconut Milk with Sweet Egg).

Before dessert we stopped back at the Khao Ka Moo stand to meet its owner. Apparently she’s a local celebrity, known for her cowboy hat. The stand was also featured in a segment of the late Anthony Bourdain’s TV show.

(In the picture is our group’s Robert, from San Diego. Taking the picture is our guide, Moui)

This was a fun tour. And I’m stuffed! We started at 5pm and finished at 8:30pm. I booked this through Airbnb Experiences. The cost was 63 USD, but I had a 25 USD Airbnb coupon (which I didn’t know about!) that dropped it down to 38 USD.

Following the tour I spent a little time checking out the other food stalls congregated in the area…

Back to the Cowboy Hat Lady.

And I was happy to conclude my night of gluttony by making the 45 minute walk back to my apartment!

I liked this storefront display.

A return to the Donald Duck Temple.

Sunday, March 1 – Chiang Mai

A rather relaxing morning followed by another big Journal Entry catch up.

Besides the daily night market that takes place near my apartment, Chiang Mai also has a unique Sunday Night Market located in the central part of the old city. It’s a 30 minute walk away; I’m going to check it out.

The market begins in the square around Tha Phae Gate. It opens at 4pm, and I arrived around 5:30pm. Hence, it was still daylight during my time at the “Night” market!

More from the square. (Yes, that’s a Starbucks sign to the right)

It may be hard to tell from this picture, but it’s very crowded as you look down the street.

I didn’t stay very long…

Instead I did some exploring of the nearby neighborhood, and came across Wat Buppharam. a Buddhist temple. This is Dhamma Hall. Can you spot Donald Duck eating a bowl of noodles out front?

Funny!

A short walk away is the entrance to Wat Saen Fang.

(apologies for the orientation of the photo; I was listing to the right a little!)

Stupa

Ordination Hall

(listing to the right again! ugh!!)

An ordination hall is the most sacred, consecrated building within a Buddhist monastery complex, specifically designed for monks to perform formal rituals, most notably the ordination of new monks.

Scripture Hall

Chanting Hall

(yes, more leaning! brother!)

Monk’s House

Mongkolsanmahachai Gate

I think I visited this temple at a good time – both because of the nice late-afternoon light, and the fact that there was nobody else here.

There were a few young monks outside doing cleanup duties. And I found this interesting: they were scrolling through their mobile phones while they worked!

Just an interesting building that I passed by on my way to…

…my nightly ritual – dumplings and a smoothie! (you’re welcome Holly! Hahaha!)

(while my main meal in Bangkok was breakfast, I have transitioned into a dinner guy in Chiang Mai!)

Monday , March 2 – Chiang Mai

Today should be fun – I signed up for a Thai Cooking Class!

(because you all know how much I love to cook. Hahaha…NOT!)

There was a morning or evening option, and I chose the morning. A pick up at my apartment was included in the cost of the course, but the market where we were starting was only a 20 minute walk away, so I met the instructor and other students there at 9am.

I arrived at Kad Kom Market a little early, and did some exploring on my own…

Peppers and (pumpkin?) seeds drying in the sun.

This is the meat stand. The orange items just below the lamps are motorized fans, twirling around to keep the flys away.

Note the QR code in the lower left. Surprised to see that level of technology at this market!

I’m now with our cooking group. We went around to the different market stalls with our instructor, Aek, purchasing the various fresh ingredients that we’ll be using today.

Here Aek is buying some prawns.

We’ve now made the drive from the market to the cooking school.

There were 8 of us in the class, the maximum capacity. The breakdown was:

• Couple from Paris
• Couple from the Czech Republic, now living in Barcelona
• Two friends from Antwerp, Belgium
• Woman from North Dakota

We will be preparing (and consuming!) a 5-course meal during the 4 hour class. For each course, we had 4 items to choose from, except for dessert, where there were only 2.

The breakdown of what everyone chose.

Preparing the Pad Thai…

…and the finished product.

For the next course I chose Papaya Salad…

…followed by Hot & Sour Prawns Clear Soup (in prep mode).

Cooking the soup.

Time to eat the Soup & Salad!

Next is Khao Soi.

For dessert, Pumpkin in Coconut.

(Not the type of Pumpkin I’m used to seeing!)

Preparing dessert.

(We typically each prepared our own courses, but in this case there were only two of us who chose the pumpkin/coconut dessert, so we worked on it together)

The final two courses are ready to eat!

Wow! That was fun, and very good. And I’m stuffed! There will be no smoothie and dumplings tonight!

Taking into account the mid-afternoon heat and the distance from the school back to my apartment, I accepted the ride that was included in the price of the course.

The cost of the class was 27 USD. Crazy, right?

Thursday, February 26 – Chiang Mai

At 5:30am, a porter came through our car waking everyone up. (to be fair though, we were warned last night that this would happen) Not a huge deal for me; I wasn’t sleeping that well anyway (no surprise!).

The overhead light in our car was on all night, and being in the upper bunk, I was right against it. The curtain helped a little, but not much. And with the curtain closed, it got a little warm. I ended up opening it on the end by my feet.

Shortly after the wake up announcement our bunks were transformed back into seats. Breakfast orders were taken, and I’m guessing the dining car was open, but I passed.

I was able to get some (fairly) nice sunrise pictures from my seat…

We arrived Chiang Mai station at 7:11am (4 minutes early!). I’m very impressed with the Thai railroad’s punctuality! So, the trip ended up taking about 12 1/2 hours. I have to say, I enjoyed it! (But I like train travel, and I’m a little weird…)

Some scenes of the Chiang Mai Train Station…

I prefer Chiang Mai to Bangkok. It’s more laid-back, has many cultural and recreational activities, and offers a cooler climate.

This is my third visit to Chiang Mai. The first was during my Thailand trip 20+ years ago. I returned 15 years ago, in March of 2011. This was when I was working in Yokohama, and my trip was a result of the devastating earthquake that occurred in Japan on March 11th. Due to the damage sustained by the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant, there were concerns about radiation poisoning in the air, water, and food of the surrounding area. Our company therefore made the decision to send their expats away for a couple weeks. I could have went back to the States, but chose Chiang Mai instead.

(And today, 15 years on, I have not yet experienced any (noticeable) effects from the radiation. Hopefully that will continue!)

I’ve booked an apartment here via Airbnb. I was hoping for an early check-in, but the unit was occupied through this morning, so the cleaning crew needs to do their thing first. I’ve been told that my key will be available at 1pm. The complex where I’m staying has a baggage storage room; I’ll head there first and then do some roaming around.

The ride-hailing app used here is Grab (similar to Uber). I could have booked that and spent 5 USD to get a ride to my apartment, but it’s such a beautiful morning (65 degrees), I decided to do the 40 minute walk instead. I’ve got plenty of time, right? Plus, the walk felt good after the long train ride.

Here are some pictures from my journey…

Fuel Price Check: 31.59 THB/liter = 3.82 USD/gallon

Cute coffee/tea shop…

…just getting ready to open.

Google Maps took me down this interesting alleyway…

…where I came upon this cool old Ford.

The Chiang Mai Samakkee Charity Foundation

It is a Chinese temple and charitable organization

Wat Si Don Chai Temple

Okay, I’ve made it to my destination.

The Astra Condominiums

Lobby

Sign posted at the entrance to the Astra. It’s kind of funny, because there are numerous Airbnb listings for apartments in this complex. Plus, I saw several tourists hanging around the lobby.

After dropping off my bag, I was back in wandering mode…

I ventured into a mall to relax a bit, and came across this smoothie stand. Mmmmmm…

You know I had to get one! Mango/coconut. 60 THB (2 USD). Tasted great! Rivals Panda Tea in Tonga!

The Museum of Broken Relationships. Interesting…

It’s one o’clock, time to get the key to my apartment…

One bedroom apartment

I’ll be here for two weeks

(for the observant ones among you, the clock is broken; in case you’re wondering why I waited until 4pm to check-in!)

42 USD / night

Gym

Rooftop Pool. It’s nice, but actually very small for this large (16 story) complex.

After getting settled in, and resting up, I decided to head back to the food court at the mall for dinner…

Next to the smoothie shop is this dumpling stand. How convenient!

Pineapple/Mango Smoothie – 60 THB (2 USD), Six Pork Dumplings – 60 THB (2 USD).

I can see myself becoming a regular at this place! And interestingly these stands do not accept cash – either credit cards (perfect!) or prepaid cards bought here at the mall (with cash).

I ended up doing 25k steps today. A new personal best for the 2026 Winter Escape!

Friday, February 27 – Chiang Mai

I led off the day with a swim in the pool. Up there at around 9am, and it was a little chilly! I was the only one around!

(I made reference to the cool mornings here, but it ends up getting about as warm as Bangkok. The daily temperature range is mid-60s to about 90 – quite a gap!)

Followed the swim with a grocery run.

Travel Note: I mentioned that I will be staying here for two weeks. I foresee this being a low-key, relaxing stay. That means these Journal Entries could be rather boring. Apologies. In fact, I may not even document every day, if nothing interesting takes place (like my London philosophy of the last couple years).

Oh, today I received a response from the Tonga airport security officer:

“We have reviewed our cctv and monitored your blue checked bag. I can assure you that your blue bag wasn’t opened at any point from check in service desk to loading burrows.”

I don’t buy it, but not unexpected. The only other time it could have been taken was on the receiving end in Fiji, but there is no baggage x-ray, or any time for that matter, on the back end. At least Tonga airport humored me with a conversation!

I got a little bit more travel planning done, and then headed out for some dinner. Care to guess where I’m going?

This is the mall with the food court, and the grocery store.

Back for some dumplings!

Tonight I upped the count to 10 dumplings (they’re kind of small) – 80 THB (2.50 USD). With an orange/pineapple smoothie. And Wow! That was good! My new favorite smoothie flavor.

Chiang Mai is kind of known for its Night Market. It operates every night of the week. Rather touristy, but still interesting.

Back to Wat Si Don Chai Temple

Saturday, February 28 – Chiang Mai

Another morning swim to lead off the day. I went up there a little later today, and a couple lounge chairs were already occupied. Nobody swimming though; just me! It felt good, but I think I stayed a little too long; got a little sunburn! May have to skip the pool tomorrow…

Much of today was spent on Journal work. I was way behind. I shouldn’t call it work though; I enjoy doing it.

Yes, I’m back to the same place for dinner! I mixed it up a little though. Tonight I have 10 pork pot stickers – 80 THB (2.50 USD). They were great! And my new fav smoothie – orange/pineapple.

I know it’s boring to go back to the same place every night, but it’s:

• Convenient
• Inexpensive
• Very Good
• Fast

Monday, February 23 – Bangkok

Back to salmon eggs Benedict this morning!

(As you may have inferred, breakfast has become my main meal of the day since I arrived at the Volve Hotel!)

Today is going to be a kind of travel admin day. On Wednesday, I’m taking the overnight train to Chiang Mai. I booked the trip through the agency 12Go.Asia, and I have to pick up the ticket at their office in Metro Mall here in Bangkok. In addition, I’m hoping to kill two birds by also buying a new hair clipper at the mall. (I’m getting a little scruffy!)

The mall is part of a combined BST/MRT station, so that will make the journey pretty simple. Since I was visiting the area, I did a search to see if there was anything worth checking out nearby (off-the-beaten path, of course!). A couple parks looked interesting…

The first park is right next to the BTS station.

Chatuchak Park is one of the oldest public parks in Bangkok. It was built on land formerly owned by the State Railway of Thailand, in dedication to former King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), on the occasion of his birthday on December 5, 1975.

A nice bit of greenery amongst the urban sprawl of Bangkok.

Noticed this fella swimming in the lake!

It’s not very busy because I’m visiting in late morning. The locals will be here either early or late in the day, to avoid the heat.

I think the heat is causing the sunflowers to droop!

The heat was getting to me a little too! Time for a break in the shade.

Right across the street is Queen Sirikit Park, a botanical garden which is part of the larger Chatuchak Park complex. It was established in 1992 and named after Sirikit, Queen of Thailand, to celebrate her 60th birthday.

Well, this was a nice diversion! Time to pick up my ticket at the mall…

Some more Chinese New Year advertising.

I think is New Year related as well.

New Year’s resolutions maybe?

And here’s my train ticket pickup location.

Unfortunately, Metro Mall is just a little underground strip with mainly food options. Finding a replacement hair clipper here wasn’t going to happen. I ended up using Google Gemini to find a mall near my hotel which would have a store that sells hair clippers.

I was directed to Gateway Mall, and…

…the store Home Pros (their sign is ahead on the 2nd level).

Success! I ended up spending more than I wanted, 2,190 THB (71 USD), but this was the only type of hair clipper that Home Pros offered, and it was the last one they had! (I tried getting a display model discount, but no. I needed Matt the negotiator with me!) I suppose I could have tried finding a less expensive one at a different store, but I didn’t really feel like searching all over Bangkok to save a few dollars.

One thing I like about this clipper is that it charges via a USB cable. I was worried that it would have a Thailand plug; that would result in my having to find a Thailand-to-U.S. adapter in order to charge it when I got back to Madison; and on the rest of this trip, for that matter. (A U.S-to-Thai adapter would be easy to find, not sure about the other way around. I’m guessing they’re out there though!)

(After getting back to the hotel I did a search to see how much I would have paid to buy the same thing in the States. It was around 60 USD. Not that much more, thankfully. And I think I remember seeing this same clipper at the duty-free shop at the Brisbane airport. I thought about buying it then, but didn’t. Probably would have cost a little less there too. Oh well…)

After my exorbitant purchase, I decided to save some money and walk back to the hotel! (only one BTS stop away!)

Cool street art

A short walk from my hotel is Mae Varee, a shop known for selling Bangkok’s most famous Mango Sticky Rice. I had to try it!

160 THB (5 USD). A little pricey for Thailand, but I think it’s a popular item with tourists. (Can’t believe I’m buying this!)

Besides the mangoes, there are three types of sticky rice, roasted mung beans, and sauce (sweet milk).

I had to ask the staff at the hotel how I was to prepare/eat it. I ended up basically throwing it all together. Not sure if that was correct, but it tasted pretty good!

Tuesday, February 24 – Bangkok

I’m starting off the day with Salted Caramel Banana French Toast and a couple of fried eggs. Yummmm!

This is my last full day in Bangkok. I asked Gemini to find me a less visited hidden gem. Let’s see where it led me…

Some Bangkok street scenes as I make my way from the BTS station to my destination…

The Bangkokian Museum (also known as the Bangkok Folk Museum) displays what upper middle-class homes looked like in Bangkok during the early to mid-20th century.

The Main House (ca. 1937)

The property was donated as a museum to the city in 2004 and the interiors are arranged in the style indicative of the World War II era.

Library

Living Room

The teak flooring is beautiful.

Grandmother’s Room

The Ancestor’s Room

Mother’s Bedroom

The Big Bedroom

The Original House (ca. 1929)

Bedroom

Office

View from second floor of the Original House, with the rear of the Main House ahead.

The Bangkokian Museum is hard to find and isn’t well known – there were only 6 other visitors while I was there. It’s a simple, discreet museum with a bit of a ‘frozen-in-time’ vibe. Perfect!

Admission Price: Free entry (Bonus!)

I enjoyed my visit to the museum. Well worth the time and effort!

Spotted this Toyota Land Cruiser FJ25 (ca. 1955-60) on my walk back to the BTS station. Very cool!

(Based on the condition of the tires, I guess it’s a permanent fixture on this side street. Somebody keeps it spotless though!)

Wednesday, February 25 – transit from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

For my last meal at the Volve Hotel, I went with the full breakfast (wanted to fill up for the long trip ahead of me!)

Checkout was at noon, so my morning was rather leisurely.

My train didn’t depart until 6:40pm; after checkout I took advantage of this nice space at the hotel to work on my Journal.

Travel Note: You will be seeing the Volve Hotel on my list of favorite accommodations. Not only is the breakfast amazing, but it has all these other things going for it:

• Friendly and helpful staff
• Close to the BTS
• Fast WiFi
• Good A/C
• Great shower
• Comfortable bed
• Complimentary snacks & drinks in the room, replenished on a daily basis
• Noon checkout

The only drawback was the noise from the adjacent road. I have my earplugs though, and slept great.

Sidenote: Today marks 2 weeks since my last correspondence with the Vanuatu airport security officer regarding the theft of my hair clippers. I decided to send him a follow up note, checking on the progress of his investigation. We’ll see what happens…

I ended up leaving the hotel around 3pm. A little early, but I was taking the BTS and MRT to the train station, and wanted to avoid rush hour (especially when taking a bag with me).

I arrived at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Station around 4pm.

This new station opened in January, 2023.

The station is nice, but rather sterile. St Pancras it is not!

There’s a nice little food court in the station.

Food is allowed to be taken on the train (no alcohol though), but I thought it would be fun to check out the dining car during the ride to Chiang Mai.

The overnight route: bottom to top

The boarding area for the train (beginning at 6:20pm)

At 6pm on the dot, a pre-recorded song was played over the PA system at the train station. I guess it was the Thai National Anthem, because all of the locals stood up. So I joined them!

Travel Note: I think I’ve mention this previously, but it’s worth repeating: A great source for worldwide train travel information is the website The Man in Seat Sixty-One.

I booked a seat in the 2nd class air-conditioned sleeper car. This particular train is relatively new; entering into service in 2016. Cost of the ticket: 48 USD.

When I first visited Thailand 20+ years ago, I took the overnight route from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. I’m trying to remember what that train was like, but sadly, can’t. (and have no digital photos to refer back to)

(I do recall my 2012 overnight train ride in Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City to Da Nang. That was much more rustic than this!)

Berths are arranged open plan, on either side of a central aisle.

During the evening and morning part of the journey, there are face-to-face pairs of seats on each side of the aisle. The young woman who sat across from me might have been from Germany. We didn’t talk much; her traveling companion sat across the aisle from her.

My duffel bag was stored under the seat.

We departed Bangkok at 6:41pm (1 minute late!).

Shortly after, I made my way to the dining car.

Passengers could also choose to have meals delivered to their seats. I guess many did that (or brought their own food), because this car wasn’t very crowded.

(A few people attempted to sit in here without ordering anything. They got the boot!)

I ordered one of the set menu options. This one consisted of:

• Thai Jasmine Rice
• Red Curry with Roasted Duck
• Clear Soup
• Spring Rolls
• Watermelon
• Water

190 THB (6 USD)

It was good! And it was nice to chill for a while in the dining car.

Just as I got back to my seat, the attendant arrived to make up the sleeping berths.

The first steps were to pull together each pair of seats to form the lower bunk, and to fold the upper bunk out from the wall.

He then arranged a mattress, pillow and fresh clean bedding on each berth, and hooked up the curtains on each bunk for privacy.

I had the upper.

Getting ready for bed.

This screen in the car displays:

• Train: 09
• Car: 9
• Estimated Arrival Time: 7:20am
• Time of Next Stop: 8:15pm
• Train Speed: 12 km/hr
• Outside Temperature: 32 degrees C
• Inside Temperature: 23 degrees C

Okay, time to hunker down for the night! See you tomorrow…

Sunday, February 22 – Bangkok

My plan for today is to visit the Old City part of Bangkok, around The Grand Palace.

But first…

…breakfast! I went with the “Full Breakfast” today. The menu indicated that there was a choice of how the eggs could be prepared, so I went with fried. Well, I guess the server took that to mean I wanted additional fried eggs, hence the extra plate of eggs! Oh well, couldn’t let them go to waste!

I’m getting a kind of late start this morning. That’s a little concerning, because I know the area I’m visiting is very touristy. We’ll see how it goes…

My journey will begin on the Skytrain, followed by a transfer to the subway.

Stairway from the Skytrain ticketing area up to the departure platform.

I mentioned previously that the Skytrain (BTS) is cash only; but the subway (MRT) accepts contactless credit card payments at the entrance gates. This was a big advantage for me this morning (and on the return later in the afternoon).

This is the massive queue waiting to buy tickets at the MRT station.

And here’s the line at the gate for those using a credit card!

What was the tagline on that old MasterCard commercial? Priceless!

Priority Seat notice on the MRT – to include Monks!

Upon arrival at the MRT station, I noticed basically all of the departing passengers were heading to the exit for The Grand Palace. Not a surprise, I guess. However, on the directory of exits I noticed the destination for one was a Flower Market. I think I’ll check that out first. The road less traveled…

This is one of the entrances to the market.

The Pak Khlong Talat is Bangkok’s largest flower market.

Originally, Pak Khlong Talat was a fish market, located on the banks of a canal (pak khlong means canal mouth in Thai). It gradually transformed into a wholesale fruit and vegetable market in the early 20th century, before becoming a major flower market in the 1950s, supplied daily by growers from all over the country.

Came upon this shrine inside the flower market.

There are also some food stalls within the market.

This is the entrance to a smaller flower market, just across the street.

I’m now outside of the market. Not sure what this place is, just liked the entrance!

Near the market is the Chao Phraya River.

As you can see, there are numerous water taxis operating on the river. I’m at one of the pickup points: White Pier.

Across the river is Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).

Here are some views as I made my way towards The Grand Palace…

A row of tuk-tuks waiting for a fare.

Museum Siam

Drum Tower (ca. 1782)

Across the street is the entrance to the temple of Wat Pho, best known for its huge reclining Buddha.

I went inside, but it was packed with people. Pass.

(I’ve visited here previously, during my trip 20+ years ago)

A peak inside the Wat Pho complex.

Travel Note: While walking around the outside of Wat Pho, I got a “Go Badgers” shout out from a man exiting the temple. Finally! And it turns out he’s from Madison, on a two week tour of Thailand. Small world!

It’s hard to tell from these pictures, but this area was jammed with people. Needless to say, I gave up and never made it to The Grand Palace (visited that 20 years ago too…).

It was a good day, regardless, with a lesson learned: Seek out off-the-beaten path areas of Bangkok!

Saturday, February 21 – Bangkok

I think I mentioned that breakfast is included here at the Volve Hotel, and it’s very good!

They offer a selection of fruit, bread, juice, yogurt, and vegetables…

…and also a choice from an a la carte menu. Today I went with Eggs Benedict, with salmon instead of Canadian bacon. Also had some guava juice and Thai lemon tea. It was great!

Thai Baht. 1 USD = 31 THB.

My only previous visit to Bangkok was a little over 20 years ago. I traveled here during one of my breaks while working in Kuwait. One thing I remember enjoying was my tour of the Jim Thompson House, so I’m going to make a return visit today.

I’ll be taking the Skytrain (BTS) to the Thompson House, with only one transfer.

Pretty quiet at the Thong Lo Station this morning.

I changed trains at a station that is adjacent to Nimibutr Stadium, and…

…Thephasadin Stadium. Both are part of the National Stadium Complex.

It’s common for the BTS stations to be connected to shopping malls via an elevated walkway.

I feel like I’ve told the Jim Thompson story previously in this Journal, but I’m not sure under what circumstance that would have been. In any event, here’s a brief summary of his (very) interesting life…

Jim Thompson was an American businessman who helped revitalize the Thai silk industry in the 1950s and 1960s. Born in 1906, he was trained as an architect, but quit his job in 1941 to enlist in the military. At the height of the Second World War, Thompson was recruited to serve as an operative in the OSS (the forerunner to the CIA). In 1946, he went to work as a military attache in Thailand.

In 1948, Thompson co-founded the Thai Silk Company Limited. The firm achieved a coup in 1951 when designer Irene Sharaff made use of Thai silk fabrics for the Rodgers and Hammerstein Broadway musical, The King and I. From then on, the company prospered.

In the spring of 1967, Thompson vanished from Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands while out for a walk. His disappearance from the hill station generated one of the largest land searches in Southeast Asian history and remains one of the most famous mysteries in the region. Over the years, many theories have been advanced to explain his disappearance, but no definitive answer has ever emerged.

Sadly, an investigation in 2023 by the Thai authorities found that Thompson had smuggled a large number of antiquities from Thailand and sold them in the United States and the United Kingdom. The objects removed by Thompson include items from the Si Thep Historical Park during the 1960s.

The Museum opens at 10am. I arrived a little early, but fortunately the museum shop and cafe were open.

Beautiful silk products on display.

Dating to 1959, The Jim Thompson House consists of a combination of six traditional Thai-style homes, primarily constructed of wood, and various old Thai structures that were collected from all parts of Thailand in the 1950s and 1960s. He designed it as a place live and to showcase his Southeast Asian art collection.

After purchasing my ticket (250 THB / 8 USD), I was assigned to the English-speaking group, who’s tour began at 10:10. Very efficient! There were 16 of us in the group; the tour lasted 45 minutes. Following the tour we were free to roam around the grounds, but not back inside the house.

Here are a few photos from the visit…

It’s interesting, we were allowed to take pictures in the house, but other people could not be included in the photo (unless they were friends or family visiting together as a group). I kind of like it, but have never encountered that rule before. Imagine trying to enforce it at the Louvre!

Very impressed! I’m happy I returned to The Jim Thompson House. Two decades later! It’s as nice as I remembered. And happy to see it’s been so well maintained.

The house sits on Khlong (canal) Saen Saep across from Bangkrua, where Thai Silk Company’s weavers were then located. This patio faces the canal, which is just beyond the structure in the background.

Khlong Saen Saep

A water taxi service operates on the canal.

Following the JT House tour, I was on the BTS back toward my hotel, but got off one stop early to check out a park.

Benjakitti Park dates to 1992, and covers 180 acres.

There’s a nice walking/jogging/biking path that runs around the lake.

Surprised to see leaves on the ground. An early autumn?

On the right is the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center.

A nice visit. I’m glad I made the diversion to check it out!

Time to make my way back to the hotel. I’ll bypass the train and walk instead. Will take about an hour.