Well, after yesterday’s record-setting step count, you can probably guess what happened today. That’s right, I set the low bar so far for the trip – 3,900 steps! Oh, well…
After relaxing around the apartment for awhile in the morning, I did work on a journal entry and got some advance travel planning done.
By mid-afternoon I was ready to venture out a little bit. My airbnb host told me about a pottery shop located just up the street; let’s check it out!
The open-air cafe here is not a problem. The weather is beautiful, with highs in the low 80s and lows in the low 70s. Mild humidity too. And very few bugs. Plus, we’re located up on a hill with some nice breezes. I’m told though that the heat can get a little stifling in the summer. Only the bedroom in my apartment has air-conditioning, and really that is all that’s needed (at least for this time of year!).
Wednesday, January 25 – Barbados
Okay, I’m on a mission today to take the bus(es) to the southern part of the island – a city called Oistins. I think I’ve got the route figured out; I take a maxi-taxi to Bridgetown and then connect to a Transport Board (normal) bus to Oistins. Each trip segment costs 1.75 USD.
I successfully hailed a maxi-taxi to Bridgetown (yes!), and then had to walk a little ways to the bus terminal in order to connect to the Oistins Transport Board bus.
I left my apartment at around 9:30am and arrived in Oistins about 11:30am. Not the most efficient journey, but it was a fun experience and cheap (my favorite word!)!
It’s getting to be around 3pm, so I think I’m going to start working my way back home (not sure how long it will take!).
It turns out I picked one of the worst times to catch the bus – it was packed with kids getting out of school! On one level though it was kind of fun too!
Traffic was brutal however. So by the time we got back to bridgetown I decided to exit the Transport Board bus and not even bother with hailing a Maxi-Taxi. I ended up walking the rest of the way home. It took about 90 minutes. Not too terrible. And a fun day with some interesting experiences!
Thursday, January 26 – Barbados
I decided to hire a driver today to take me around the island. I used the same person who picked me up at the airport. She thought 3 hours would provide good coverage, and charged me 40 USD/hour, which seemed very reasonable (especially considering those gas prices!). (A quick search online brought back rates closer to 60 USD/hour)
Travel Tip: A popular messaging app in this part of the world (including South America) is Whatsapp. I use it to communicate with the driver and my airbnb host.
Lisa picked me up at 9:30am, and our first stop was Bathsheba. It is located on the central east coast of the island, and our drive there took us through forest and farm land via some narrow roads.
Just as we were leaving two big tour buses full of cruise ship passengers arrived; glad we avoided that!
Our next destination is Animal Flower Bay, on the northern tip of the island. Normally Lisa would take us there via the east coast roads, but unfortunately they are currently undergoing repairs. That resulted in us traveling via the inland parts of the north. This is the more rural and poor part of the island.
We finished off the drive by heading counter-clockwise around the tip of the island to the West coast – the most exclusive (read expensive) area of Barbados.
Lisa dropped me off in Holetown, one of the main cities on the west coast. It is called the center of the Platinum Coast, due to the vast number of luxury resorts and mansions here that face the sea.
There is a nice grocery store in Holetown (of course!); I decided to take advantage and grab some things before heading home. My (low-cost) options to get back were: a) bus to bridgetown and then another bus to the apartment, or b) walk. You can probably guess which option I chose. The walk took about 90 minutes.
Barbados Trivia Update: I mentioned earlier that it is illegal to wear camouflage in Barbados. Lisa explained that this is due to the fact that the military’s primary uniform is camouflage, and the law is meant to deter individuals from impersonating military personnel.
After yesterday’s journey I’m kind of tired today , so I think I’m just going to hangout around the apartment. I did work on a journal entry though!
Barbados Trivia: It’s illegal to wear camouflage in Barbados.
Monday, January 23 – Barbados
Today’s itinerary is to explore the island’s main city – Bridgetown. My plan is to walk there from my apartment and then to take a bus back. The walk should take about two hours, which doesn’t bother me, as I like exploring the areas I visit on foot.
In general, I’d say the walk wasn’t all that interesting. And some of the roads had no shoulders or sidewalks, which made walking on them a precarious proposition!
The bus system here in Barbados has three types of buses: normal size city buses operated by the country’s Transport Board, smaller mini buses, and even smaller maxi taxis, both of which are privately run. I thought I had it all figured out, but when I got to a bus stop to return home, I wasn’t entirely confident about which bus would get me back to my apartment. So I ended up just walking back!
I need to figure out this bus system though, because I plan on using it as my method of transport on the island!
At least my step count appreciated my ineptness – 34k for the day! That tops my highest output of 31k steps from last year’s Hawaii trip. Although, even after today’s big effort, I’m still only averaging 12k/day so far; well below last year’s record-setting average of 16k steps per day!
Bogota sits at an elevation of 8,660 feet. That makes it the third highest capital city in the world, behind La Paz (Bolivia) and Quito (Ecuador) – so I’ve now been to the top 3! (I’ve also visited #5 – Thimphu, Bhutan. Will I get to #4 – Addis Ababa, Ethiopia? Mmmmm…) That’s the good news. The bad news is that, like my arrival in La Paz, I’m experiencing altitude sickness – fatigue and headache. It lasted for a few hours in Bolivia; hopefully it will be the same duration now, especially considering I only have two full days here.
Since I have to lay low for awhile, I decided to make an effort at updating my journal. However, when I accessed the site online I noticed the formatting was all messed up! What the… Fortunately the web host has some helpful tech support staff and they were able to sort it out as I was on the phone with them. That did take an hour though. It’s the first time I’ve had an issue like this in the 4 years of this website, so I guess I can’t complain. And subsequent to their repair of my site I had a conversation with one the host’s web designers and I think I may use their consultation services to help cleanup up my site and make it look a little more professional. So continue to watch this space (the update will happen later in the year)…
I was feeling a little better by the afternoon, so I decided to go out for a walk. But being that this is, well, Bogota, I thought it would be best to stick close to the hotel.
As I walked around I noticed many of the locals wearing their backpacks on the front of their bodies. It’s so sad that the threat of being robbed in the middle of the day in a nice neighborhood is something they have to deal with in their daily lives. Kind of reminds me of my time working in Johannesburg – same situation, but worse there (at the time), in my opinion. (all I had on me as I walked around was my camera and the key card to my hotel room)
Since I’m feeling better, and only have one day left here, I did something I’m usually opposed to – I booked a day tour for tomorrow. To be fair though, I’m doing the tour not only because of my imminent departure, but also due to the fact that I wouldn’t feel comfortable roaming around Bogota on my own.
Friday, January 20 – Bogota
My 6-hour tour will be private, meaning it’s just me, the driver Hernan and guide Marta. It was kind of pricey (for me), $189, but this seems like a moment to splurge (and I couldn’t find any group options!).
Our first stop is Monserrate – a 10,300 foot mountain that overlooks Bogota. There are three ways to reach the peak: tram, funicular, and hiking path. Now, normally I would absolutely want to do the path. But, as we know, I don’t have the time for that on this trip. However, there is another obstacle – the trail is known to be a common spot for muggings to take place. More sadness…
We will be taking the funicular.
Next stop. The Gold Museum. The museum displays a selection of pre-Columbian gold and other metal alloys, and contains the largest collection of gold artifacts in the world. I enjoyed this! Below are a few photos from the displays.
Just down the road from the Gold Museum is the Plaza de Bolivar.
Also close by is the Museo Botero. Fernando Botero Angulo (b. 1932) is a popular Colombian-born artist. The highest realized auction price for his work to date is 4.3 million US dollars. The museum is housed in a beautiful former colonial mansion.
This was a fun day! I enjoyed talking with Marta and listening to the local insight she provided.
Bogota is definitely the type of city I could spend some time visiting. A great place for walking and exploring neighborhoods. It’s too bad that’s not going to happen.
Colombia Covid Situation:
Vaccination or negative test required for entry.
No mask requirement (similar to Panama City, I’d say about 10% of the people I encountered were wearing masks).
Saturday, January 21 – transit from Bogota to Barbados
Happy Birthday Tim! Time to get up for your 4:49am flight! Who’s the idiot that booked a departure at this ungodly hour?? Oh…
So, I should be at the airport 3 hours before departure. That means leaving the hotel at 1:30am. In Bogota. Wow! That’s a brilliant decision! (unbelievable what I’ll do for a cheap flight!) Just another reason I reserved a room at this 4/5-star hotel. I was confident they would have security on site at that time of night, and that they would provide me with a safe ride to the airport (kidnapping by unscrupulous taxi drivers is also a thing here).
The taxi ride cost $8 (plus a very generous tip; thanks for not kidnapping me!) and took about 20 minutes. I’m flying on Copa Airlines via Panama City to Barbados. The cost of the one-way trip was $285. On arrival at the airport the Copa ticket counter was not yet open, and there’s already a long line. Great. It ended up taking about an hour to check in.
The ticket agent did ask me about my one-way ticket to Barbados, but I was prepared with my onward itinerary to Grenada. Ha! She also wanted to see my vaccination card. Not sure why, since neither Panama nor Barbados require vaccination for entry. And she wanted proof of my yellow fever shot. Again, not sure why since neither Colombia nor Panama are know as yellow fever hot spots. Regardless, it was obviously not worth arguing about, since I had both shot records handy.
DISASTER AVERTED!!
The flight from Panama City to Barbados took about 3 hours. Another full 737. Per the announcement by the flight attendant, we touched down at 1:21pm (on 1/21 – my birthday. Cool!).
Continuing the trend, no questions from Barbados immigration regarding my return/onward flight.
I booked a ride from the airport through my airbnb host. It cost 50 USD (Barbados is a little more expensive than Colombia!), and it took about 25 minutes.
I was pretty tired, but did take a walk (20 minutes each way) to the nearby mini-mart to pick up some food. Groceries are expensive here; I’m told it’s because most things need to be imported.
I’m planning another Uber out and walk back today. My starting point is the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) area of the city. It was settled in 1673, following the destruction of the original Panama City in 1671 (which I visited earlier). And like Old Panama, this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It took about 20 minutes to get here from my hotel ($4).
I noticed that this area was much more crowded with tourists than Old Panama. Part of it I’m sure is due to the fact that Old Panama is just an archaeological site and museum, whereas the Old Quarter has many shops and restaurants. However, I later learned that a cruise ship was docked in Panama City today, so many of tourists were here for the day only. (Bad timing on my part!)
Here are a few pictures from my walkabout…
I know what you’re thinking, “where are all the tourists Tim was talking about?”. Well, I had to be patient to get these photos with minimal human content! I’ll also say that the area was jammed with traffic. I guess I can understand why vehicles need to get in here, but it seems like the powers that be could set aside some roads as pedestrian only.
I’m going to make my way back to the hotel via the waterfront (well, until I need to cut inland, as my hotel sadly is not on the water!).
I don’t think I’ve mentioned the weather here in Panama City; it can be described in two words: Hot & Humid! The highs are in the mid-to-upper 80s.
Travel Tip: I’m trying to avoid roaming charges on this trip. AT&T charges $10/day for cellular access (however, they do max it out at $100/month). So, I basically use wifi exclusively. Here are some suggestions along those lines (and I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned these before, but they’re worth repeating):
Subscribe to a VPN. This provides security to all my devices (laptop, iPad, iPhone). And it also lets me select an ip address from the location of my choosing. This is helpful when I’m logging into my personal financial websites, as they typically block access from foreign countries. I use ExpressVPN, which runs about $13/month (on a month-to-month basis).
The Maps app on my iPhone detects my location via GPS, not the cellular signal. I therefore download the local map to my phone while on wifi, and then it’s stored on my phone for use with GPS as I walk around the city.
Use wifi calling on my phone. I had used Skype in the past, and am new to the game on this. What can I say, I’m slow!
Tuesday, January 17 – Panama City
My last full day in Panama City. I’m planning on visiting a couple museums today. Again it will be an Uber out and walk back itinerary.
My first stop is the Biomuseo, a $5 ride from my hotel. The main reason I want to see this is because it was designed by Frank Gehry, the architect of such places as the Olympic Fish Pavilion in Barcelona, the Dancing House in Prague, and the Guggenheim Bilbao.
Now, I kind of dropped the ball here, because I just assumed that museum was open every day of the week but Monday, like most other museums. Unfortunately it is in fact only open Thursday through Sunday. Oops! Oh well, I mainly wanted to see the exterior anyway!
My next stop is the Panama Canal Museum in Casco Viejo, where I was yesterday (the Museum is closed on Mondays – as most normal museums are!). Well, apparently it is also closed today for some reason as well (nothing on their website warning of this). Mmmm, I’m sensing a trend. Oh, and yes, it was less crowded around here today (goodbye cruise ship!)
The last museum on my itinerary is the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo. And again, this museum is closed today. (Supposed to be open; no mention on their website) Looking through the front door, it appears that they’re changing around the exhibits. Almost a total bust on museum plans for the day!
Oh well, I ended up spending the day doing one of my favorite city things – just walking around and observing. I do have one more stop though. I want to get a closer look at a building I saw amongst the skyscrapers.
My thoughts as I leave Panama City:
It probably wouldn’t be very high on my recommended places to visit
It’s generally pretty dirty, except along the waterfront and tourist areas
The traffic is terrible
It is not pedestrian friendly (except for the waterfront path)
No significant cost advantage versus the U.S.
But the locals are generally friendly
And it’s got the Panama Canal, that’s all that really matters!
And to be clear, my comments are about Panama City only, not the rest of the country.
Finally, the Covid situation here in Panama:
No testing or vaccination required for entry
No mask requirements (I’d say about 10% of the people I encountered were wearing masks)
Wednesday, January 18 – transit from Panama City to Bogota
My flight today is around noon, so fortunately I don’t have an early wake up! The Uber to the airport took about 30 minutes and cost $19.
And yes, the agent at the Copa Airlines ticket counter did ask me about my one-way ticket. I was ready this time though! I presented her with my onward itinerary to Barbados via Copa. No issues.
(I don’t remember going through this as went from Bolivia to Ecuador to Chile – all one-way flights, and I’m pretty sure I didn’t have the onwards portion booked prior to entry into the country.)
The flight took about 1 1/2 hours on a 737, which was full. And upon arrival in Bogota it took 1 1/2 hours to get through immigration! Brutal! The good news: I didn’t have to wait for my bag! (And no, the immigration officer did not ask about a return/onward ticket)
Travel Tip: I’m pretty sure I mentioned this before as well…I have a Schwab ATM card that charges no foreign transaction fee and reimburses the ATM charges. I use this card to get cash whenever possible. I also have a credit card that charges no foreign transaction fees.
At the airport it’s nice that they have a taxi system where you pay a set rate in advance based on your destination. My trip cost $16 and took about 45 minutes (rush hour traffic).
Experiencing the Panama Canal was the main reason I wanted to visit this country. I’ve booked a tour today that will fulfill that desire. I’ll be taking a boat ride for a few hours along a small portion of the Canal. Hopefully I won’t be disappointed!
Besides the cruise, the tour ($145) also includes hotel pickup and return, and lunch served on the boat. I think I’ll do chronological style entries of the tour for this post. It might get a little dorky, so feel free to scroll down if you get bored! I don’t plan on getting into a lot of technical stuff though; there’s plenty of information online regarding the history and operation of the Canal, for those who are interested. Here’s one source.
9:00am: Pickup at the hotel by the tour company’s shuttle bus. I was told yesterday that I would be picked up between 9:15 and 9:45. This is the opposite of what I’ve experienced in Latin America – early rather than late!
10:30am: Arrive in Gamboa. This is where we’ll be boarding the boat for the ride south on the Canal back towards Panama City. I was the second of what turned out to be seven hotel pickups (11 passengers), and then it was about a 40 minute drive to Gamboa. One problem though – the boarding isn’t scheduled to start until 11:30! So we head back down the road along the Canal to kill some time at a little restaurant/grocery store.
11:30am: We’re back at the dock and the crew is ready for passenger boarding. While we were away however, several other tour buses have queued up to offload their passengers. This is going to be a full load!
11:50am: We’re underway!
12:45pm: Tied up at our first set of locks.
1:58pm: The lock begins to drain.
2:06pm: We depart the locks.
2:19pm: Tied up at our second, and last set of locks. Again, we’ll wait here until the car carrier catches up.
2:56pm: The locks begins to drain.
3:07pm: We depart the locks.
3:15pm: We arrive at the 3rd set of gates.
3:23pm: The locks begins to drain.
3:32pm: We depart the locks.
4:31pm: We disembark.
5:20pm: Dropped off at my hotel.
This was fun!. I was not disappointed!
There were 4 folks on our bus who travelled here from the States just for a long weekend, solely to take this cruise on the Canal. I spoke to a couple other people on the boat who were doing the same thing. And this was a small sample size, I’m there were others. Interesting. I guess I’m not the only Panama Canal geek!
But you may be shocked to learn that this Panama Canal cruise was NOT the highlight of my day. Nope. That’s because I made a new friend today…
Daniel is an 8 year old from Panama City. We were on the same tour bus (he and his grandfather were the first pickup), but didn’t talk on the way to the boat. Once we got onboard though, he joined me on the upper deck where I had planted myself by the railing. He would squeeze in next to me when it was crowded and go down below to get me snacks and drinks during the lulls. A very nice little guy. I had fun talking to him (his favorite car is the Supra, which I can relate to!). He wanted to sit with me on the bus as we returned and everyone was dropped off at their hotels. He even fell asleep next to me. Very cute.
I’m still feeling a little tired today. Not sure why, probably old age! So, I think I’ll keep it fairly low key.
I did walk around the neighborhood a bit and made a grocery store run. The currency here is the U.S. dollar, so that’s convenient. Although the cost of my accommodation is rather inexpensive, the prices at the grocery store are generally about the same as those in the States (well, Madison anyway). Interesting. There are also several retail stores and fast food shops in this area, and from the looks of the prices I can see from the outside, again it’s very similar to back home.
Oh, and I also worked on the trip’s first journal entry today, so I wasn’t a complete waste! And I did go for a swim in the pool, so there’s that. I promise a more ambitious tomorrow!
Friday, January 13 – Panama City
Friday the 13th!! Oh Oh! I’ll try and stay busy today while attempting to ignore the perils that I may encounter.
My target today is the part of the city called Old Panama (Panamá Viejo). This is where the country’s capital used to be located and was the first place that Europeans settled when they landed on the American continent. The city was in operation from 1519 until 1671, when the area was looted and set afire by the English pirate Henry Morgan and his sailors. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site that contains the remains of the original city and a museum ($10 entry fee to the museum and archeological site).
It looks like the walk from my hotel will take about an hour, but I think I’ll save that for the return trip. Instead, I’ll take an Uber over there ($4).
Time to make my way back to the hotel. I noticed that there is a big park on the way, so I’ll definitely be making a stop there. But first…
I got back to my hotel in the late afternoon and was kind of hungry, so I decided to stop at a cafe nearby. I had walked by there last night and it was pretty busy; that’s gotta be a good sign, right?
Saturday, January 14 – Panama City
I need to get some advance trip planning done this morning. I brag about how my winter escapes have no itinerary, which allows my stays to be flexible if I like a place and want to stay longer than anticipated (or visa versa). Buenos Aires is my benchmark in this scenario. But it also leaves me susceptible to fluctuations of flight costs and schedules, and the availability of reasonably priced accommodation.
My follow-on from Panama City is a perfect example. I’ve already booked a flight to Bogota. From there I was planning on visiting one of the nearby ABC islands (Aruba, Bonair, Curacao). And that still makes sense, because flights to these islands are very inexpensive. The problem is, departing from there to one of the other islands in the southern Caribbean is expensive. The short of it is that I spent a LOT of time today looking at a LOT of different scenarios on where my next few stops will be. Here’s what flights I’ve got booked so far…
January 18: Panama City to Bogota
January 21: Bogota to Barbados (short stay in Bogota unfortunately)
January 30: Barbados to Grenada
February 05: Grenada to Saint Vincent & the Grenadines
I have an airbnb booked in Barbados, but I still need to sort out accommodation in Grenada and SV&G (hopefully the cost of the options won’t be too exorbitant!).
This effort took way longer than expected, so I finished the day by making a grocery store run and then hitting the pool! Sorry, another boring day to read about. I promise tomorrow is going to be much better though. In fact, I have an excursion planned that will tick the box for my main reason to visit Panama. Intrigued? I hope so!
Tuesday, January 10 – transit from Madison to Toronto
Welcome back everyone! Thanks for following along as I begin Winter Escape #4. This will be my first travel outside of the United States since I exited Argentina in March of 2020 at the beginning of the Covid shutdowns (thanks again for the heads-up Kait!). The plan this year is to start out in Central America (Panama), then dip into South America (Colombia), and conclude by working my way north through the Caribbean. I’m hoping to visit at least 12 countries or territories over a period of 3 months or so. Kind of ambitious, I know, but I’m not getting any younger! (And to be honest, I have a goal of visiting 100 countries in my lifetime, and this is an easy way to cherry-pick a few. I currently sit at 70.)
My trip to Panama will include an overnight connection in Toronto via Air Canada. I booked through AC because I have a credit from them due to their cancellation of my return flight from Buenos Aries in 2020 (the credit expires in March of this year). Taking into account the credit, the net cost of my one-way ticket to Panama City was $61. (Seems high, right? Inflation I guess)
I’m starting off by taking the bus from Madison to O’Hare (thanks for the ride to the Lake Street stop Chuck!). The trip takes about 3 hours and costs $36. Fortunately, my flight doesn’t depart until 3:30pm, so I don’t have to leave on a super early bus from Madison. Unfortunately, the 6pm arrival in Toronto means I’ll have a 14+ hour layover until my flight to Panama City leaves at 8:30 tomorrow morning. And I don’t plan on spending it at the airport! So I booked a hotel close by for $125.
The bus ride goes as planned, arriving at O’Hare around 1pm, well in advance of my flight (which, as you will soon learn, becomes critical).
I’ll lead off this part of the story by saying that I tried to check in for my flights a few times online since the opening of the 24-hour window. All to no avail though, due to a generic error message. I wasn’t too worried however, because my booking was confirmed. I even had seat assignments. I figured it was just some glitch in the Air Canada system. So, when I got to the airport I also tried to check-in at the kiosk. Still no luck. Next stop, a visit with the ticket agent. And this is when I’m told that I will not be allowed to check in for the flight. Wait, WHAT??? The reason given is because I only booked a one-way flight; a return is also required. I explained my plans to the agent (visiting multiple locations over 3 months, next stop is Colombia, no set return date, etc.), and she seemed agreeable to let me check-in. However, she needed to run it by her supervisor, who was adamantly opposed. Ugh!
The friendly agent suggested I just buy a cheap return ticket for some date in the future. I agreed that that would be my best, and likely only, option. But before I went away to search on my phone for a ticket, I wanted to have a talk with the supervisor. My point of contention was the timing in which I was informed of my no-travel status. Obviously the system had flagged my reservation early, hence the error message when I tried to check-in. Why was I only informed of this issue at the last minute, when there was very little time to correct things? Her only response was that “the entry requirements of the country being visited are the responsibility of the passenger”. Mmmmm…
So as I contemplated how I should go about booking this return flight (make it changeable so I can actually use it when I return to the States; make it fully refundable; go with a low-fare carrier and just eat the cost, etc.), Then I remembered that U.S. airlines provide full refunds on bookings that are cancelled within 24 hours of purchase. Problem solved! I ended up buying a one-way ticket on American for $280, going from Panama City to Miami in March.
This task complete, I went back to the ticket counter and showed (the same) agent my confirmed booking and was good-to-go. She was really nice about it, saying she would have let me go if her supervisor wasn’t around. She even gave me some suggestions about what to see in Columbia, where her boyfriend is from.
Upon my arrival at the Toronto airport hotel, I went to work on a few things:
Review the Panama entry requirements. It turns out having a return or onward ticket is one of the criteria for entry. That’s on me for ignoring it. What stood out in my case though was the onward part; a ticket to Colombia would suit me just as well as one to the States.
Cancel my American reservation. Full refund please!
Book a flight from Panama City to Bogota, in case Panama immigration asks. I had already reserved my hotel in Panama through the 18th, so I booked a one-way departure flight on that date for $154.
Wow! This was kind of a long narrative. Sorry about that, but it was an eventful day!
Wednesday, January 11 – Transit from Toronto to Panama City
The flight to Panama City was on an Airbus plane similar in size to a 737, and was pretty full, but luckily I had a empty middle seat next to me. The flight took about 5 hours, arriving around 1:40pm (they’re on US Eastern time).
The line for immigration was fairly short, and I made it through in no time. In case you’re wondering…NO, the officer did NOT ask me anything about a return or onward flight!
(I have a theory about this (probably obvious to most other folks!). I think the airlines and immigration agencies work together on enforcing some of these entry rules. The airlines are the first point of contact, so are in the best position to confirm if a passenger has the proper passport, visa, and flight requirements. That way a passenger doesn’t make the journey to another country and is ultimately turned back. In fact, I faintly recall going through a similar situation in the past (memory issues!), where a ticket agent informed me that airlines can be fined if they allow a passenger with improper credentials to board an international flight)
I reserved my hotel via Booking.com, and as a promotion they offered a free car service ride from the airport. Nice! That was worth around $30.
I was going to roam around the neighborhood a little bit this evening, but I was beat. I have many days ahead of me on this trip, no need to rush it!
I’m heading to Kona today, to finish out my trip there. I’ll be turning in my rental car today too. The route to Kona will be via the north coast, and I plan on making a few stops as I make my way to the airport. By going in this direction I will have completed a full loop of the island by traversing the belt road that is called the Māmalahoa Highway.
Travel Note: Daylight Savings Time (DST) began this morning in most of the country. However, Hawaii is one of two states (along with Arizona) that do not observe DST. Hallelujah! I won’t be losing an hour of the precious remaining time I have left on the islands.
My main point of interest this morning is the Pololu Valley, which is the most northern of the valleys that are carved into the Kohala volcano. It is a 2 hour drive from my hotel. There is an overlook to the valley and a hike that goes from the overlook down to a black sand beach. I was hoping to do the hike, but I had a deadline to get my car back to the airport, so ended up just viewing the valley from the overlook.
Located close to the valley is Keokea Beach Park. It’s kind of off-the-beaten-path – which you know I like! A perfect place to have a snack and take a break.
On my way to Kona, I’ll be passing through the little town of Kapaau, which is the birthplace of King Kamehameha I (KKI). To commemorate this, a statue was erected there of him in front of the historic county courthouse.
You may recall that I previously posted of photo of a KKI statue located in front of the the Aliʻiōlani Hale government building in Honolulu. You may further recall that the statue in Honolulu looks strikingly similar to this one. Well, it’s not a coincidence, and there’s an interesting story as to why…
The statue here in Kapaau has its origins in 1878 when it was commissioned to commemorate the 100 year arrival of Captain Cook to the Hawaiian Islands. An artist in Europe was chosen to create the statue. The finished brass sculpture was shipped from Germany in 1880 en route to Hawaii, but after encountering a storm in the south Atlantic, a fire broke out on deck and the ship sank near the Falkland Islands. Its entire cargo, including the sculpture, was presumed lost. When news of the shipwreck reached Honolulu, officials decided to commission a second cast using the insurance funds collected after the loss of the original. Ironically, and unbeknownst to Honolulu officials, fishermen managed to recover the sunken statue, which was recognized and bought by a British ship captain who then sold it in 1882 to the Hawaiian government. Now in possession of two identical statues, government officials decided to place the second cast, in considerably better condition than the original that had been damaged in the shipwreck, in the location originally intended to receive the statue, Honolulu. After some debate, the original was installed near Kamehameha I’s birthplace in North Kohala. Due to the shipwreck, neither statue was on-hand in Hawaii to fulfill the original plan of celebrating the 100th anniversary of Cook’s arrival to the islands.
After dropping off the rental car at the Kona airport, I headed to my accomodation in nearby Keauhou for the next two nights (via Uber: 25 minute drive, $35).
Travel Note: As predicted, the larger rental car I had here couldn’t match the milage I achieved with the smaller vehicles on the other two islands: 36 mpg (not as bad as I thought it’d be though!).
Travel Note: Distances that I drove on each island:
Oahu: 0 miles
Kauai: 298 miles
Maui: 474 miles
Big Island: 779 miles
Monday, March 14 – Keauhou
I have to admit, I am beat today. Kind of hit the wall. It’s probably partly a mental thing too, as I know this is my trip’s last day. After taking it easy for a couple hours though, I’m ready to explore a little bit of Kona.
The condo complex where I’m staying is located on Alii Drive, the main road in Kona along the coast. And there’s a trolley service that runs an hourly loop along the route, so my plan is take the trolley from the south end (where I’m located) up to its finish in the north and then walk back.
I finished the day by chillin’ out at the condo’s pool. Ahhh…
Tuesday, March 15 & Wednesday, March 16 – Transit from Kona to Madison
Sadly, after a little over 9 weeks, my time in Hawaii has come to an end.
My journey back to Madison begins early – a 5:30am Uber pickup ($35; 20 minutes) to get me to the airport for my 7:30am flight to Las Vegas.
My return itinerary isn’t pretty, but I really can’t complain after this great trip!
Kona to Las Vegas; 5 hour flight
Four hour layover in Las Vegas, which turns into 5 1/2 hours as departure is delayed (not that big of a deal though – I have to wait for the bus in Milwaukee anyway!)
Three hour flight to Milwaukee; arrive at 2:30am
Take the bus from Milwaukee to Madison; departs at 6:20am, arrives at 8:30am ($23)
Ride home from Lake Street bus stop – thanks Chuck!
Trip Comments
Spending 9 weeks in Hawaii was amazing. I had a wonderful time! And how lucky did I get with the weather? Unbelievable! No rainouts throughout. Incredible!
I guess the only negative of the trip would be the disappointment of some Covid-related closures; specifically the Keck Observatory and Kalaupapa National Historic Park.
I have now visited 33 of the 51 states (incl Washington, DC). I’ve also been to two of the five U.S. Territories (Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico). Sadly, my country count has been on hold at 70 for the past two years, but hopefully that will change soon!
I remain thankful that I have been blessed with the time, funds and health to allow me to experience so much of the world!
Steps Update: I ended up averaging 16.2k steps per day for the trip (66 days). I was curious how this compared to my other winter escapes:
2019 South America: 14.4k per day (75 days)
2020 Europe: 16.1k per day (33 days)
2020 South America: 14.5k per day (30 days)
My friend John asked me a good question: With all of the walking that you did, how much weight did you lose? The answer: 4 pounds. He was rather surprised that it was so low! Understandable. I have a couple theories though: a) I was already rather light when I departed in January (160 pounds), and b) I have to admit I wasn’t eating the healthiest when I was staying in the hotels! (and my hunch is that weight loss is probably 80% due to diet, with the remaining 20% a result of exercise)
When I determined that I’d be spending my entire time in Hawaii I figured that a reasonable budget would be $300/day. I ended up coming in much lower than that though; mainly due to my extended stay in Oahu (long-term Airbnb and no rental car).
Thank you to everyone for following along, and for your feedback and comments. I enjoy working on these Journal Entries, and it means a lot to me that you are interested in its content. And it’s wonderful hearing from you as I travel solo on these long escapes.
And a big thanks to those of you who provided me with the awesome Hawaii travel tips and inside information: X & Linda, Ed, Kathy & Ray, Karen, Chuck, Debbie & Ron, Georgina, and John’s (de facto) sister-in-law Joyce.
I’ve been doing a lot of driving lately, so I think I’m just going to stick around Hilo today.
After a somewhat leisurely early morning, my first stop is the Panaewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens.
Next on the agenda is the Lyman Museum and Mission House.
Price Check: There is a McDonald’s close to the museum, so I had to stop in for a cone. But wait, they’re sold out! What?!? The price of $1.69 though would have placed this location near the least expense on my Hawaii survey.
Friday, March 11 – Hilo
I’ve got a fair amount of driving ahead of me today, as I’m going to explore the south of the island and then loop around to the west to finish up around Kona. So another early start is in order!
Travel Note: As I made my way south, my next planned stops were going to be to Ka Lae (South Point), followed by a hike to Papakolea Beach. Ka Lae is the southernmost point on the island, and thus, in the United States as well. Papakolea Beach is known for its unique green sand. Access to both from the main highway is via South Point Road. However, just before leaving the hotel this morning I happened to glance at the map provided to me by the rental car company. There in bright red letters is the notation that it is forbidden to drive rental cars on South Point Road! It’s a paved road, but apparently in rather rough condition. Oh well…
As a substitute for the planned visits that were now sadly off limits, I inserted into the itinerary a nearby park that happens to include a hiking trail. Let’s check it out!
Making my way now around the southern tip and traveling north on the west side of the island, the last stop of the day is Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park. Up until the early 19th century, a puuhonua (place of refuge) provided a safe haven for those Hawaiians fleeing for safety or seeking absolution after breaking kapu (laws), and this one is the best preserved in the state.
Instead of making the loop back to Hilo, I cut across the middle of the island (the same route I took from the airport last Sunday). The drive took about 90 minutes.
Saturday, March 12 – Hilo
I’m making a return visit to Volcanoes NP this morning, to take a hike I didn’t have time for on my first trip.
A surprise is awaiting me at the park! The rangers have posted notices indicating that there is a slight eruption occurring in the Halemaumau Crater. And a viewing area has been established. Awesome!
I’m hiking the Mauna Ulu Trail this morning. It’s a 2 1/2 mile round-trip that features a diverse landscape that was created during the 1969-74 Mauna Ulu flow.
Steps Milestone: Today I eclipsed the 1,000,000 step mark for the trip. Nice! And how appropriate that it occured while I was hiking in Volcanoes National Park!
In celebration of my milestone, I decided to enjoy a proper sit down meal!
I spent the morning getting caught up on the necessities of everyday life (email, finances, etc.) and working on a journal entry. In the afternoon I took a walk around the area near the hotel, and came across a nice little park on the waterfront.
Travel Note: I forgot to mention in yesterday’s entry that my flight to Kona was only about half full. That goes against what I encountered in my other two interisland flights – they were filled to capacity. Is the Big Island less popular? I’m guessing no; many other factors are in play (including my very small sample size!).
Tuesday, March 8 – Hilo
I’ve been looking forward to today’s excursion – a visit to Volcanoes National Park! The park covers over 500 square miles and includes two of the five volcanoes that formed the Big Island half a million years ago.
The VNP website includes detailed information about parking capacity at various spots throughout the park, as well as typical hourly occupancy at each location. They warn to have backup plans in case a lot is full. The trailhead for one of the hikes I’m interested in happens to be at a popular location. Mmmm…
…I therefore decided an early start was in order (the park is open 24 hours). I left the hotel around 6:30am; the drive to the park took about 40 minutes.
I’ll start the day off easy with a short hike to Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube), which is one of the most popular attractions in the park.
Adjacent to the Lava Tube is the trailhead for Kilauea Iki, which will be my next hike…
I spent the next part of my visit traveling by car to various viewing locations throughout the park via Crater Rim Drive.
I finished the day with a drive along Chain of Craters Road. This 20 mile (each way) out-and-back trek travels from the high elevation of Crater Rim Drive to the coastal region of the park.
A great day in the park!
Fuel Price Check: I topped up on the way back to the hotel.
Travel Note: When I woke up this morning I noticed there was a cockroach in my bathroom. Not a huge deal, but I mentioned it to reception on my way out, in case they use some type of pest control measures. They promised to do a thorough cleaning of my room, and I was happy with that. Well, when I was checking my email later in the day I noticed that the hotel had provided me with a $50 refund. I wasn’t sure why, so I checked with the front desk and was informed it was due to the cockroach incident. Unexpected, but nice!
Wednesday, March 9 – Hilo
Today’s mission is to explore the east side of the island to the north of Hilo.
My next destination was further up the coast, but along the way I noticed a sign pointing out a short scenic drive, so I decided to check it out.
On my way to the next stop I passed through the small town of Honoma…
About an hour’s drive north is my next destination – the Waipio Valley.
There is a hiking trail leading from the lookout area down to the beach. It’s only about a mile long, but has a 1,000 foot elevation change and is known to be treacherous. I was going to give it a shot, but unfortunately the trail was closed today. No clear reason why was givin, but others I talked to at the lookout speculated that the locals are not happy with the tourist hikers and have forced the closure. Apparently it’s been an ongoing battle for years. A shame…
Since my hiking plans were thwarted, I needed to come up with a Plan B.
Fortunately, not to far away is the Kalopa State Recreation Area.
It started raining just as I finished the hike! Close to the trailhead though was a shelter with picnic tables. So I made my way there, had a snack, and then began the drive back to Hilo.
Sidenote: Averted a disaster today! As I was meandering around the island, I noticed a message on my phone: No SIM. Not No Service, but No SIM! Did I forget to pay the bill?? No, I’m on autopay! I tried several restarts to alleviate the problem, but with no success. Fortunately though I was still able to use the phone’s navigator app to get me around. (I think I’ve mentioned this in a previous post, but it’s worth repeating: Once a map is loaded into a phone’s nav app (either via a wireless or cell connection), it is stored there and a cell signal is NOT required to provide navigation, that is done by the phone’s GPS signal. This is an especially helpful tip when traveling overseas and facing expensive data fees.) When I got back to the hotel, I used the wireless connection there to (hopefully) find a local AT&T store. Yesss! There’s one just two miles away. After several failed attempts to correct the issue, the Tech Rep ultimately installed a new SIM card. Whew! Thankfully back on the network. The Rep mentioned that a failed SIM is a rare occurrence, but that mine is rather old! (iPhone 6, purchased fall of ’14) However, he also commented that he was impressed with the condition of my “old” phone (especially considering I don’t use a permanent protective case). Of course, he also tried to sell me a new phone! Thankfully I was close to an AT&T store when this happened. That’s not always the case though when I’m travelling; and it made me realize how dependent I am (we are) on our phones.
Travel Note: Hawaii announced that, as of March 26, masks will no longer be required while indoors, becoming the last state to drop the mandate. In addition, the directive that travelers from the mainland provide proof of vaccination or a negative Covid test will also expire on that date.