Sam and Sophie told me about a yoga class on the island; sounds interesting! I’ll be joining them this morning, and Katie thought she would try it too. Great!
The class took place on the top (3rd) floor of a building that also houses a cafe. The open air studio was full – probably 20 of us (including my three snorkeling friends). The class lasted an hour and cost 10 USD. It was fun!After class we all went here to grab something to eat (Tush joined us too).Sophie looking over the menu.Sam decided on a smoothie bowl and mini donuts with nutella dip. The bowl looked good……so I got one too! I chose papaya and banana, with toppings of pineapple, cranberries, granola, and honey. 7.50 USD. (I had one of Sam’s donuts too!)All mixed up. Very good!
After brunch we split up and agreed to meet later in the afternoon at a nearby beach for some wildlife viewing.
I spent my afternoon working on a journal entry and taking a bike ride around the island.
This is the property adjacent to my Airbnb, where they have an arrangement that allows their guests to use the chairs. Yes, I took advantage! (and I like this picture, with the shadows!)The Caye Caulker Fire Department.I rode my bike by the place where I’ll be meeting the gang later – Stingray Beach. They have these hammocks and swings in the water, which is pretty cool (literally!).The beach gets its name because of this (and it’s the reason we’ll be back here later today). Basically, the bar on the beach feeds the rays every afternoon to attract them (and customers!). Another case of messing with the ecosystem that leaves me a little uncomfortable.There’s a sea horse viewing here too. In this case though they’ve set up a natural habitat to bring them to this location – not as objectionable!Flowers spotted during the ride…It’s later in the afternoon now and I’m back at the beach. The crowd has gathered for the arrival of the rays.Definitely too touristy for me.I stayed on the pier and was able to see a couple rays swimming by.A sea horse too.And this cute little fish.
Sadly, my snorkeling friends were all departing in the morning, so we said our goodbyes following the stingray viewing. I had fun hanging out with them.
Unfortunately, the nature of my trip – staying mostly in Airbnbs, and having little opportunity to book group tours – has limited my interaction with other travelers, which is too bad.
Thursday, April 13 – Caye Caulker
When I was staying at the B&B in Belize City I met Yasir, who is from Canada, and was also traveling to Caye Caulker. We’re going to get together for lunch today. While waiting for the meet, I did a little walking around the island.
The island of Caye Caulker was split in two by Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Both the airport and the ferry docks are located in the south, which is where I’m staying, and where most of the activity takes place.There is a ferry service that runs between the north and south sections though.Yasir and I decided on this roadside stand for lunch. I went with shrimp kabobs with rice, plantain, and coleslaw. (15 USD) I also got a bottle of tamarind juice. (2.50 USD) Both were very good, but I thought the kabob was overpriced (for street food in Belize).
Yasir is an interesting guy. He lives in Edmonton and owns a wellness center (yoga, massage, nutrition, etc.). After lunch he was joining some locals for a poker game! I’m glad we were able to meet up.
Later in the day I got a hankering for some ice cream (shocking!). The shop I visited previously wasn’t open, but they had a sign up referring customers to their sister company, Nico’s. My flavors are Baileys (awesome!) and soursop (a local fruit). 4 USD. Yummmm.After all of my eating today, I really wasn’t planning on much for dinner, but did stop here on the way back to the Airbnb for……a couple ham & cheese rolls. 1.50 USD each. Hit the spot!
Friday, April 14 – transit from Caye Caulker to Placencia
I’m back on the ferry to Belize City this morning. I’ll then fly from the municipal airport to Placencia, a coastal town to the south.
The crowded departure area in Caye CaulkerThe type of boat we’ll be using for today’s trip.Full capacity. In fact, some of the later arrivals to the terminal who had no advance booking were turned away.
The ferry ride took an hour and then I had a 10 minute ride to the airport (7.50 USD).
Travel Note: On more than a few occasions during this trip I’ve encountered taxi drivers who were unable to provide change for my larger denomination bills (and I’m not talking 100 dollar size here). So annoying! Just another reason why I despise taxi drivers, and utilize Uber/Lyft whenever possible!
The Tropic Air Arrivals/Departures Building. I had a 2 hour wait here, but that was fine; I just relaxed and did some reading. There were no security checks here prior to boarding the plane. Interesting. (and boarding took place 5 minutes before departure!)Our plane for the trip.The plane had space for 11 passengers. There were 6 of us onboard, including the pilot.A couple views from the flight…
We made a stop in Dangriga on the way to Placencia. In total the trip took 45 minutes. I purchased a round trip ticket that will take me to the Belize City International airport on the 18th; the cost was 276 USD.
My taxi ride from the Tropic Air office in Placencia to my hotel took 10 minutes and cost 10 USD. (thankfully I had the exact change!)
I’m staying at the Miramar SuitesFull kitchen.4 nights @ 154 USD/night
When I booked this hotel, I chose the cheapest option (of course!), which was a garden view room. Even though it was the lowest cost, it was rather large, with 2 bathrooms. Well, when I arrived for check-in I was asked if I wouldn’t mind switching to a smaller, oceanfront room, as a group of 3 people preferred the larger suite. Yes, please!
My patio.View from the patio.My room is on the ground floor, center.And there’s a pool!
Just like in Montego Bay, immediately after check-in I got into my swimsuit and hit the pool! After sufficient chillin’ time, I made a grocery run and that was pretty much it for the day.
Travel Note: I’ve been reading about the flooding in south Florida, and the closing of the Fort Lauderdale airport. A sad situation, and relatable, since I was just there.
Saturday, April 15 – Placencia
What do I usually do on my first day in a new location? That’s right…roam!
The Placencia Police & Fire StationsSeems like I should stop here, right? Looks a little dodgy though!I ended up stopping here for lunch.The view from my table.Rum Punch. 4 USD. Nice & Strong, and a great price!Tropical Wave Smoothie (mango, banana, pineapple, coconut). 5 USD. Good price; tasted great!Grilled Fish Sandwich. 11 USD. Rather mediocre, and seemed overpriced for Belize.There’s this nice walkway in Placencia that parallels the beach, with shops, inns, and cafes. It took me all the way back to my hotel.I spent the rest of the day poolside and lounging on my Patio. A good day!
Sunday, April 16 – Placencia
I booked a tour for today. It will include a boat ride through some mangroves and the Caribbean Sea to Monkey River Village, followed by a hike in search of monkeys. Let’s go!
Departing the dock.These are lobster traps, in storage because the season ended in February.Proboscis BatsAshore and ready to start the hike.Doyle, our guide (and boat operator).We have a sighting!Howler MonkeysAnd a crocodile too!with zoom…We’re now making our way back to Monkey River Village.Time for a late lunch.Baked whitefish, rice & beans, and coleslaw.
This was a fun tour! There were 8 of us in the group, it lasted 5 hours, and cost 107 USD. I spent the rest of the day on my patio and poolside. Of course!
Good Morning! Breakfast included Sorrel Juice and homemade Johnny Cakes. Good stuff!
As I was on my way to Belize, contemplating my one full day in Belize City, it finally dawned on me that that day will be Easter Sunday. Well, that was kind of stupid planning! Again! Anyway, I’ll make the best of it and take a walk around the city (it’s what I do…)
The walk from the B&B to the far eastern tip of the city should take about an hour.
The Panamanian Embassy is across the street from the B&B. And the waterfront is a block away from the B&B.My walk is going to take me mainly along the waterfront. This is the Ramada Inn.There is a nice walking/biking path along the water.Baron Bliss Lighthouse, erected in 1885 on the former site of a Spanish fortress which was nearly destroyed after the Battle of St. George’s Caye in September 1798. (Note really sure if it should be called a Lighthouse though!)View from the Swing Bridge.It’s kind of hard to see, but the blue-shirted guy in the boat is waving at me to take a picture of him. So I did! Funny!The Supreme Court Building.The Government House (ca. 1814) was first the residence of the Governor of British Honduras and later the residence of the Governor General, the Queen’s representative in Belize. It is now a museum.The Cathedral Church of St. John the Baptist was constructed from 1812 to 1820 with bricks that had been used as ballast aboard ships. It was the first church to be built in the colony of British Honduras.The church is located across the street from the Government House Museum.Belize Civic Centre
The fact that my walkabout occurred on Easter Sunday turned out to be a good thing. The city was deserted! The only place that I would have liked to have visited was the Government House Museum.
Fuel Price Check (open on Easter!): 12.32 BZD/gallon; the easy math converts that to 6.16 USD/gallon.
I returned to the B&B in the early afternoon and relaxed in the Jacuzzi. I followed that with some journal work, and a return to the Friendship Restaurant for some dumplings (thank you for being open on Easter!).
The day turned out better than I expected!
Monday, April 10 – transit from Belize City to Caye Caulker
I met some interesting people at breakfast today: a couple from Belgium who have been to Uganda to see the gorillas; a gentleman from Pakistan who now lives in Washington, D.C. and works for the world bank, which has resulted in his visiting over 100 countries; and an entrepreneur from Canada who, like me, will be traveling to Caye Caulker today (on a different schedule though) – we will likely meet up there later in the week.
I have an early afternoon departure from Belize City to Caye Caulker via a water taxi/ferry. My taxi ride to the ferry terminal took 15 minutes and cost 10 USD.
Ferry TerminalIt turns out I had a “stupid, but lucky” moment when I scheduled this portion of my trip. This is the hectic scene at the baggage claim here in Belize City, for the passengers arriving from the islands (including Caye Caulker). I learned that the long Easter weekend (Good Friday and Easter Monday are holidays here) is a popular time for the locals to travel to the islands. I dodged the crowded island bullet by waiting until today to depart!Our boat to Caye Caulker will be the green one (where arrival passengers are now exiting). The larger ferry will be going to Ambergris Caye (more about that later).On our way! The ride took 40 minutes and cost 43 USD for a round trip (I’ll be returning on the 14th).Caye Caulker ferry “terminal” dock.Baggage claim
Caye Caulker (pronounced “key corker”) is a small island, measuring roughly 5 miles by 1 mile. Along with Ambergris Caye, they are the most popular islands to visit in Belize. One is known for its luxury resorts, excellent (and expensive) restaurants, and a bustling nightlife. The other is smaller and more rustic, attracting travelers seeking a relaxed Caribbean vibe. Based on the island I chose, I’m sure you can guess which is which!
There are no automobiles on Caye Caulker, only golf carts, bicycles, and feet (walking!). The walk to my Airbnb took 10 minutes.
I’m staying at a place called the Gumbo Limbo. I booked it through Airbnb, but it’s available through their own website and other travel booking sites as well.
The lounge area and entrance to my studio apartment.4 nights @ 98 USD/nightThere are other cabins on the propertyAnd a bar!Bikes available for guests to use. Yes please!
After getting settled in, I took a short walk around the area.
The Gumbo Limbo is located a block away from the waterfront.High Street Caye Caulker!Oh Oh! I’ve spotted an ice cream shop!One scoop Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip, one scoop Belizian Fudge (not what I thought, but the vendor described the flavor to me before I chose it – it’s cinnamon & caramel), all in a homemade waffle cone (4 USD). Awesome!
Tuesday, April 11 – Caye Caulker
My Airbnb host recommended a tour operator to use for a snorkeling excursion. I stopped by their shop yesterday to book a spot for today.
The snorkeling tour is scheduled to last 6 1/2 hours and will take us to three different spots: Coral Gardens, Shark Ray Alley, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. The cost of the tour was 100 USD, and included equipment, drinks, lunch, and rum punch!
What will be on view in Coral Gardens is self-explanatory. The same goes for Shark Ray Alley, except to point out that the nurse sharks we will be swimming with are harmless. And Hol Chan Marine Reserve covers approximately 4,400 acres of coral reefs, seagrass beds, and mangrove forest. Hol Chan is Mayan for “little channel”.
(I don’t have a waterproof camera, so sadly the only pictures I have to post are from what I took onboard. Sorry!)
Our snorkeling catamaran. There were 15 passengers and 3 crew members in our group.A beautiful, calm day for sailing and snorkeling! That’s Sam & Sophie, who I’ll be hanging out with later.Guess where we are now? We’ll be jumping in to join them imminently!Lunch included chicken breast, rice, pasta salad, vegetables, and fruit slices. Very good!The snorkeling is done, time for a rum punch!Under sail during our leisurely return to Caye Caulker.Round 2!
This was a fun day! The snorkeling was excellent. Among other things, we saw beautiful coral, parrot fish, barracuda, tarpon, eels, rays, and of course, the nurse sharks. The duration of the snorkeling stops was just right, and each was followed by a slow-paced sail to the next location.
The only issue some of us had was the fact that in order to attract the sharks, they were fed from the stern of the boat. Not sure if that is the best long-term plan for the ecosystem, and ultimately I guess we (the passengers) are culpable by booking and paying for the tour. A complicated issue.
I enjoyed meeting the other snorkelers, and upon returning to Caye Caulker a few of us got together for some more rum punch! (only 4 USD per drink)
A rare Tim sighting in the journal! Joining me (l-r) are Sam, Sophie, Katie, and Tush. They hail from the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand. We plan on meeting up again tomorrow too.
Thursday, April 6 – transit from Montego Bay, Jamaica to Miami
This Morning’s Menu – last breakfast in Montego Bay
Orange Juice
Fruit Plate
Pepper Steak
Green Banana
Yam
Plantain
Callaloo
Fried Dumplings
I’ve been spoiled. I’m going to miss these breakfasts!
I have an early afternoon flight today to Fort Lauderdale. I used the driver who picked me up at the bus terminal for the ride to the airport – 15 minutes, 15 USD.
Travel Note: The Montego Bay airport is massively busy! It’s well organized though – both the airline check-in and the security screening. (unlike a certain ferry terminal I encountered that shall remain nameless!). Just get there early! I arrived 3 hours before my flight.
I’m flying Southwest today, and I tried checking-in online yesterday but received an error message. Following that I called customer service, who worked on the issue for 45 minutes, to no avail. I was told I would need to check-in at the ticket counter today. Ugh! I’m sure my boarding position is going to be terrible. Yep, it’s C9! Fortunately it’s only a 90 minute flight (where I’ll be stuck in a middle seat…)
Follow-Up: While waiting in the gate area prior to boarding, my name was called amongst a group of passengers being asked to report to the agent. It turns out I was randomly selected by TSA for a bag search. That’s kind of annoying, but it’s also a good thing because the search starts early in the boarding process and once it’s complete I can get on the plane. Nice! I ended up sitting in an exit row aisle seat!
(Did this story just completely bore you to death? Apologies!)
Side Note: I’ve noticed during this trip that when certain airlines are making announcements at the airports, instead of mentioning “passengers” or “customers”, they are now using the term “guests”. Really? Am I now sounding like the old guy yelling at the kids to stay off his lawn? Probably…
I mentioned a while back why I was traveling to Miami on this trip. Here’s a quick refresher: When I was trying to book my transit from Jamaica to Belize it was either going to be prohibitively expensive or of a brutally long duration. This diversion to Miami seemed to be the best alternate. I know what you’re thinking though: After flying in and out of Miami, spending two nights in an accommodation, plus all the other minor associated costs, wouldn’t it have ultimately been less expensive just to shell out for the high cost fare from Jamaica? Probably, but my cheapness just wouldn’t allow me to pull the trigger on a (relatively) massive ticket price. I’m certifiable, I know! (BTW, the cost of the Southwest flight was $208)
Okay, so I’m arriving in Fort Lauderdale, and in a couple days I’ll be flying out of Miami, so I reserved an Airbnb close to the Miami airport. It turns out it’s kind of a long drive between those two airports. (And I’m probably the only one who’s just realizing this!) After collecting my bag, I checked on a Lyft ride to the Airbnb and it was going to cost $65 and take 70 minutes. Mmmm, flashback to Dominica! There has to be an alternate means of transit, right? And after a little research, I discovered that, yes, there is! My route turned out to be as follows:
Shuttle bus from Airport to Train Station: free
Train from Fort Lauderdale Airport Station to Miami Airport Station: $3.75
Lyft from Miami Airport Train Station to Airbnb: $6.00
Total Time: 100 minutes
Fort Lauderdale Airport Train Station
Side Note: You may be wondering why I chose to use Lyft instead of Uber? Well, I usually compare prices between the two, but in this case I had no choice. That’s because Uber no longer works on my phone! I last used Uber in Panama in January with no issues. Well, since then they’ve issued an update to their app that is no longer compatible with Apple iOS 12, which is what my iPhone 6 is stuck using. I’ve had this phone 8 1/2 years, and it may be getting to the point where I need to get a new one. I hate planned obsolescence!
My Airbnb is a little studio apartment at the back of this house.Two nights @ $113/night
Friday, April 7 – Miami
I have a couple places I’d like to check out today.
The first stop is the Vizcaya Museum (thanks for the recommendation Ali!). To get there I’m going to use the Miami Metro system. The walk to the Miami Airport station took 15 minutes; the train to the Vizcaya station cost $2.25; and the walk to the museum lasted 10 minutes. I love public transport!
The Vizcaya Museum and Gardens is the former villa and estate of James Deering, of the International Harvester fortune, located on Biscayne Bay. The villa was built primarily between 1914 and 1922, and the property originally consisted of 180 acres.
An amazing place! Thanks again Ali! The museum entry fee was $25 and I paid another $5 for a 30-minute guided architectural tour.
My plan is to walk back to the apartment, which should take around 2 hours. On the way is my second stop: Sanguich de Miami – a sandwich shop in Little Havana that I read about.
The line at the door is for indoor seating. I just placed my order at the takeout window.I went with the Cubano sandwich, and had to try the pineapple soda. ($15 total) I thought the sandwich was good, but not really worth $13. Fun experience though.
Saturday, April 8 – transit from Miami to Belize City
My short Lyft ride to the airport this morning cost $7.
My flight is on American today, and I ended up using miles to book it. The one-way ticket cost $6 + 26,000 miles. However, for an additional 10,000 miles I could upgrade to business class. It’s only a 2 hour flight, but I went with the upgrade mainly so I wouldn’t have to pay to check my bag. Not sure if 10,000 miles are only worth $30, but who knows when I’ll ever utilize the miles? And it turns out the Miami airport was very busy on this Easter weekend, so the access I received to the American lounge via the BC ticket was a nice perk.
I was a little disappointed that the BC passengers did not receive a meal on the flight. I know it was only 2 hours, but I figured we’d a least get a sandwich. Nope! Just an offering of some pretzels, chips, and cookies. I did have 2 mimosas though, so there is that! (And I did some eating in the lounge too!)
Travel Note: I had a check-in problem on American too. I had a feeling I knew what the issue was in this case though, and I was right – my one-way ticket to Belize. It’s the same problem I had on the very first flight of this trip with Air Canada – no return or onward ticket. I was prepared this time however and showed the ticket agent my itinerary to Madison on the 19th…on AmericanAirlines!
Travel Note 2: At not one of the immigration points on this trip was I asked by an officer if I had a return or onward ticket. Thereby confirming my assumption that the policing of this policy is solely under the purview of the airline, ferry operator, or similar. Interesting…
I booked my ride from the airport through the B&B where I’ll be staying. It cost 30 USD for the 20 minute drive.
Villa BoscardiLobbyMy room is on the ground floor, in the back corner of the house.2 nights @ 117 USD/night, including breakfastAnd there’s a Jacuzzi in the back (it’s not a hot tub though; the hot water part isn’t really needed here!)
For dinner, the B&B owner recommended a nearby Chinese place. Perfect!
Friendship RestaurantI chose the fried dumplings with steamed vegetables (11 USD). Very good!The Belize Dollar. The exchange rate to the U.S. Dollar is fixed at 1 USD = 2 BZD.
Noticed this sailing by this morning…it’s going to be crowded in town today!
No big plans for the day. I’m just going to walk around the area to the north of the B&B. (amongst the cruise passengers)
My B&B is located just up the hill from this “Hip Strip” area of Montego Bay. Basically the road runs along the water and contains restaurants and shops. Tourist-mania!Usain Bolt’s Tracks and Records RestaurantSunset Beach (it’s tiny!)Like St. Maarten, the Montego Bay airport is located right on the water. However, here they lack the beach with the dramatic views (and photo ops!).Pretty roadside plantings.This is Doctor’s Cave Beach. An entry fee is required for access; that automatically excludes it from my list of beaches to visit! And today especially so, because the buses lined up here have unloaded the cruise ship crowd to the beach.Traffic can get a little ugly along Jimmy Cliff Boulevard!I eventually made my way back to Harmony Beach Park……for another ice cream cone! I chose Chocolate Overload today!
This turned out to be my last meal of the day. These breakfasts fill me up!
The First Souvenir of My Trip! I stopped by the post office today to mail Oliver’s postcard, and was sold this stamp for the card. I liked it so much, I bought one for myself!Beautiful sunset tonight!
Wednesday, April 5 – Montego Bay
This Morning’s Menu
Pineapple Juice
Fruit Plate
Callaloo & Swordfish
Yam
Green Banana
Plantain
Fried Dumplings
I noticed another cruise ship in port this morning. And I think I’ve seen pretty much all I want to around here…okay, I talked myself into it – I’ll be hanging out at the B&B today! Worked on this journal entry, did some Miami planning (my next stop), and spent serious time in and alongside the pool! A good day!
I did venture out to Cali Taco to grab two more fish tacos for my last supper in Montego Bay.That’s the cruise ship sailing off to the right of the sun.The sun sets on my last night in Montego Bay.
Travel Note: I have a feeling these past few days have been kind of boring to read about. I apologize for that. It’s been a relaxing time for me though. I’ve enjoyed my time here (mainly because of the B&B, obviously!).
Jamaica Information
Currency: Jamaican Dollar
Language: English
Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the left
Weather: It’s hot here! Highs in the upper 80s; Lows in the mid 70s; fairly high humidity
Covid Entry Requirements: There was a health check upon arrival at the airport. It consisted solely of a query regarding travel history over the past six weeks; whether or not a passenger has traveled to a high-risk area during that time period.
Mask Wearing: There are more people wearing masks here that I’ve encountered in the other places I’ve visited on this trip. Still a big minority of the population though.
For breakfast, we have a choice of Jamaican or American style. I plan on going Jamaican throughout my stay! Ya Mon!
This Morning’s Menu
Sorrel Fruit Juice
Fruit Plate
Akee & Saltfish (I had this in a patty from the Devon House Bakery in Kingston)
Yam
Green Banana
Plantain
Callaloo (grown on the property)
Fried Dumplings
The couple sitting next to me at breakfast had brought some of their own fruit, and offered it to me to try. Thank you! This is Custard Apple and Naseberry. Both were very good!
Wow! What a breakfast. I’m stuffed!
That meal left me a little lazy. I ended up spending the entire day on the property. I worked on a journal entry, did some reading, and of course made maximum use of the pool!
There is also a game room here. I spent a little time shooting pool today too. As you would expect, I’m terrible!
Breakfast was so filling that it ended up being my only meal of the day. To be honest though, the fact that the taco shop is closed on Sunday, and my general laziness, might have also played into the decision!
Travel Note: The shower here is great! Plenty of hot water and strong water pressure. It’s pretty much the first time I can say that since I stayed at the hotel in Bogota in January. Generally, the Airbnbs I’ve used throughout the islands have lacked either one or both of those attributes. I’m sure though that if I had instead stayed at resorts, the situation would have been different. Cheapness has its drawbacks!
Another Travel Note: I was talking to Xavier and he asked a good question about my travel map. He noted that when looking at the map, some numbers are missing. Great observation! This occurs when I have stopped at a location more than once. When this happens, one number will overlay on top of the other for that particular spot. This occurs in Panama (I had a layover there on the way to Barbados), Dominica (two stops), Grenada (two stops), and St Kitts (layover there on the way to Antigua). I think that’s all of them! If you have a question about the numbers, you can always refer back to the list.
Okay, I need to get out and walk off some of these calories! My plan is to checkout a few sights to the south of the B&B.
Just down the hill from the B&B is Old Hospital Park – my first stop.Beautiful!Old Hospital Park BeachThis is what remains of Fort Montego. It has been converted into a private residence!The view from the hill where Fort Montego is located. The arrow indicates the planned destination for my walk. The route will take me around the bay and hopefully provide some nice views from the peninsula.I’m now in Harmony Beach ParkWhere is everybody? The beach is closed today due to the lack of lifeguards. (the park is open though!)I made a diversion to Sam Sharpe Square in town. This is the National Museum.Another view of the square. Kind of uninspiring…
So, my walk out to the peninsula turned out to be like the one I took on the way back from Marigot in St. Maarten – long, and unpicturesque due to the many resorts and private residences blocking access to the waterfront. Bummer! Oh well, I did end up with 28k steps for the day. And to reward myself for the effort (and to sooth my disappointment)…
…there’s a Devon House I Scream in Montego Bay! Alright! It’s located in Harmony Park. I noticed it when I was here earlier and I knew I had to stop on my way back to the B&B.And unlike the crowded shop in Kingston, I was the only one here at the time!I chose Pineapple-Ginger (again!). 4 USD.By the end of the day I was getting a little hungry; time to head back to Cali Taco! Went with 2 fish tacos tonight (7 USD). Eaten poolside, of course!
Sidenote: When I went to Cali Taco on Saturday the counter person there asked for a name to place on the order. So, upon my return today she remembered my name, and so did the cashier. Funny! (Although, they probably don’t get that many old white guys in the shop!)
I’m kind of behind on my journal entries…a top priority today!
My journal workstation (my room is a little cramped!)
The internet here is rather slow, so it took forever to upload my photos to the journal. Oh well, I’m working on island time!
I finished the journal update by mid-afternoon and decided to go back to the Devon House Bakery to get another patty. I went with fish this time (3 USD). I then roamed around the corner; back to the ice cream shop. But it was jam-packed with people today too! Worse than yesterday. As much as it pained me, I didn’t feel like waiting. Lame, I know!
Travel Note: I meant to mention that the stay at the B&B here marks the first time I have not been in an Airbnb since the hotel in Bogota way back in January. Kind of a long stretch. I just found the Airbnbs to be more economical when visiting the islands.
Saturday, April 1 – transit from Kingston to Montego Bay, Jamaica
I’m taking the 10am bus today to Montego Bay. And I’m happy because I only have a 10 minute walk to get from my B&B to the bus terminal!
My ride to Montego Bay.
The trip took 3 hours, which included a 10 minute rest stop, and cost 30 USD. The bus was 90% full (and 90% of those were locals). I’m staying at another B&B in Montego Bay, and they arranged for a taxi to pick me up at the bus terminal (located at the airport). The 15 minute ride to the B&B cost 15 USD.
Polkerris B&B – 5 night stayEntrance to my room through the french doors on the left.The upper level balcony, where breakfast will be served.View from the balcony.More of the upper level common area.And there is also a pool. Bonus!
This B&B is the most expensive place I’ll be staying at on the trip…by far. 247 USD/nt. I’ve been spending less on accommodations than I expected, so I decided to splurge a little. I’m glad I did; this is a nice place!
Immediately after check-in I put on my swimsuit and hit the pool!
By late afternoon I was getting hungry. Crystal, one of the B&B staff, told me about a taco place nearby. I’m there!
A 10 minute walk from the B&B.I brought my takeaway order back to the B&B balcony. One fish and one jerk chicken taco (7 USD). Very good! I’ll likely be going back to Cali Taco! The Final Four is live in Jamaica! Very Nice!Sunset from the balcony. Not great, but definitely not horrible either! We’ll try again tomorrow!
Not a whole lot to write about today unfortunately. I worked on a journal entry, prepped for my Jamaica visit, and went for a swim at Simpson Bay. Tomorrow should be more interesting…
Monday, March 27 – St. Maarten
I’m traveling to France today! It’ll be a short trip. The walk to Marigot, the capital of St. Martin, will take about 45 minutes.
The view of Cole Bay as I cross the Simpson Bay Causeway.I’m now on the Marigot waterfront. Up on the hill is Fort Louis. Of course I’ll hike up for a visit!The fort dates from the late 18th century, and similar to the other forts that I’ve visited on this trip, it fell into disuse in the mid-19th century.What are you looking at?!?The view out to Potence Bay.Marigot Bay, with Simpson Bay Lagoon in the background.More of Marigot Bay, the Fort Louis Marina, and the town of Simpson Bay in the distance.View of the marina and the fort from the Marigot waterfront.I stopped by this food truck on the waterfront for a quick snack.Ham, cheese, and egg on a croissant (4 USD). Nothing special, but hit the spot!
For my return, I planned on making a counterclockwise loop around Simpson Bay Lagoon. It seemed like it had the potential for some great views of both the lagoon and Nettle Bay. That sadly wasn’t the case though. Access to both of those bodies of water was pretty much blocked by resorts or private residences.
I did get this view of Simpson Bay Lagoon along the way.
And it turned out to be a long walk! I ended the day with just under 34k steps, so there is that! (the 2nd highest daily output so far on the trip, exceeded only by my slightly longer trek in Barbados).
Fuel Price Check: 1.29 EUR/liter. That works out to 5.30 USD/gallon.
Tuesday, March 28 – transit from St. Maarten to Kingston, Jamaica
I have a mid-morning flight today. As with my arrival here, I’m traveling to the airport on foot (a 20 minute walk). Avoiding taxis makes me happy!
My non-stop Caribbean Airlines flight to Kingston took about 2 hours and cost 316 USD. The 737 originated in Barbados; after we boarded in St. Maarten, the plane was three-quarters full.
Travel Note: I was not asked about onward or return travel by the Caribbean Airlines ticket agent in St. Maarten.
St. Maarten Information
Currency: It’s interesting, both the Netherlands Antillean Guilder and the U.S. Dollar are accepted here. In fact, in the grocery store for example, both prices are indicated for items.
Language: English
Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the right
Weather: High in the mid 80s, Low in the mid 70s, moderate humidity
Covid Entry Requirements: None
Mask Wearing: Rare
Electrical Outlets: U.S. Type
Drinkable Tap Water: Yes
Timezone: Same as U.S. Eastern
Prior to my arrival I had arranged a ride from the airport with my Kingston Bed & Breakfast; that trip took 30 minutes and cost 40 USD.
Eventuality B&B, New KingstonEntryLobbyMy room is tiny!80 USD/nt, including breakfast
Travel Note: The lock on my door wasn’t working, so they gave me 4 USD off per night. Gee thanks! I could lock the door from the inside, but I couldn’t lock it when I left. I was assured that it would be no problem, only staff would have access to the area. Whatever, I still took my important stuff with me whenever I left. Kind of a hassle, but it turned out not to be an issue. I’m still trying to figure out though why it’s so difficult to fix a door knob?
There’s a nice open-air area in the back of the B&B.
It was late afternoon by the time I reached the B&B; I was content to rest up for tomorrow.
I’m Rich!! The Jamaican Dollar (1 USD = 150 JMD)
Wednesday, March 29 – Kingston
This morning’s breakfast. One thing you may not recognize is the fried plantain.Banana Bread and Otaheite Apple juice (an apple native to Tahiti, but grown abundantly in Jamaica – it’s shaped like a pear).
I have a few places within walking distance that I plan on visiting today. Let’s do this!
First Stop: The Bob Marley MuseumThe museum is housed in his former home.
Unfortunately, the taking of pictures was not allowed within the house. Most of the rooms have been converted to display various memorabilia, with the exception of the bedroom and recording studio, both of which remain relatively intact. Entry to the museum was timed via a tour guide, who was very good. Including a 15 minute documentary at the end, the tour lasted an hour and forty-five minutes and cost 25 USD. And it was popular! There were around 20 people in our group.
Side Note: One the wall in one of the rooms I noticed a citation presented to Bob in 1978 by the Wisconsin State Assembly! I didn’t have the time to read what it was for. I did a little research online, but couldn’t find any additional details.
Next on my journey was a visit to the grounds of Devon House. The home was built in 1881, and is the former residence of George Stiebel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire. The name comes from the property previously being called Devon Penn before Stiebel made his fortune in Venezuela and returned to purchase it.
Today the property has been developed to include a little area with shops and cafes.I stopped here to try a local favorite.An Ackee & Saltfish Patty (5.50 USD). Ackee is a fruit grown in Jamaica, and when paired with saltfish it is considered Jamaica’s national dish. It kind of reminded me of the fish roti I had in Grenada – spicy, curry-based – but with a hard shell. Or maybe it’s like a Cornish pasty from the U.K., but with a spicy filling?And right around the corner was an ice cream shop (with a cute name) that I had to check out!Pineapple-Ginger ice cream (4 USD). Tasted great! I might have to come back!My last stop was Emancipation Park……a nice oasis located close to my B&B.Fuel Price Check: 207.9 JMD/liter. That works out to 5.22 USD/gal.
Thursday, March 30 – Kingston
With the help of the B&B staff, I’ve hired a driver today to take me up to the nearby Blue Mountains. You may have heard of this area due to their famous brand of coffee. I could have chosen to go on a coffee tour, but since I’m not a drinker, I decided to go on a hike instead.
Our destination is Holywell Park, a nature preserve that is part of the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park. There are many trails throughout the park, and I’ve chosen a couple that I think will fit into my allotted hiking time of 90 minutes as my driver stands by (I don’t like having to be on the clock while I hike, but don’t really have an option in this case).
The drive from Kingston to the park took around 90 minutes and was mainly on a slow and winding narrow road. It was a pretty route, but because of the road conditions, we were unable to stop and take any pictures.
Side Note: The main road to the park cuts through a Jamaican Defense Force (JDF) base. On both our ascent and descent from the park, our vehicle was stopped while we waited for army drills taking place nearby to be completed.
The first trail was a little over a mile loop with some moderate elevation changes.The elevation peaked at 4,400 feet.A couple views from the trailThere are also some rental cabins available in the park.Another trail took me to this waterfall. It’s kind of hard to see the waterfall due to the sunlight, and the fact that it has been very dry here recently.I also spotted some pretty flowers on the trails…
I ended up spending 2 hours on the trails. We then had another 90 minute drive back to the B&B. Total duration: 5 hours, at a cost of 87 USD for the driver. Not terrible, I guess. There was a 10 USD entry fee for the park. In hindsight, I’d say the excursion probably wasn’t worth it. The hiking wasn’t all that spectacular. Oh well, I had to give it a shot while I was here.
Later in the afternoon I returned to the Devon House shops to try another Jamaican favorite – Jerk meats (the island barbecue). The meat is covered with a sauce and herbs and then slow-cooked over a coal fire.
I chose Jerk Pork Sausage, which came accompanied with sweet bread (6 USD). It was okay, but not mind-blowing. Maybe I’ll try it again from a different vendor.
Following my jerk meal I walked around the corner to the ice cream shop, but it was packed with customers. Sadly, I passed…
Kind of a disappointing day: the uninspiring hike, the uninspiring jerk, and no ice cream. But I need to stay positive – a couple new experiences that I’m fortunate to be able to undertake. (And regarding the ice cream, that’s my own fault (lack of patience!)!)
I’m kind of tired today. And it looks like it’s going to be a rainy morning (a rare occurrence on this trip!); seems like a good time to work on a journal entry. I also need to do a little planning and prep for my next stop – Sint Maarten.
St. Kitts Information
Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar
Language: English
Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the left
Weather: High in the low 80s, Low in the low 70s, moderate humidity
Covid Entry Requirements: None
Mask Wearing: Minimal
Electrical Outlets: U.S. Type
Drinkable Tap Water: Yes
Time Zone: Same as U.S. Eastern
By mid-afternoon the weather had cleared, so I went for a swim at Frigate Bay.
Corrections & Amplifications
In a previous post I incorrectly identified the island that could be seen from Brimstone Hill. It is actually St. Eustatius, not St. Martin. There’s a map at the fort identifying the various sights on view from the hill, and I obviously misread the notation for this (shocking, I know!). Sorry about that. And thanks for fact-checking me Chuck!
Thursday, March 23 – transit from St. Kitts to St. Maarten
I have a mid-morning flight today to St. Maarten. The short ride to the airport cost 21 USD.
My flight on Winair took 25 minutes and cost 177 USD.
Travel Note: The ticket agent in St. Kitts did not ask me about any onward or return travel from St. Maarten.
My Airbnb in St. Maarten is located in Simpson Bay, which is right next to the airport. Rather than taking a taxi, I decided to just get there on foot. The walk took 20 minutes.
Not a bad place.5 nights @ 110 USD/ntNot much to look at from the outside……but I’m only a block from the beach!
This afternoon I went on a grocery run. It was a 30 minute walk to get there, but let me say that it was worth it! The store (Carrefour) was the best I’ve encountered so far (better even than in Antigua), and the prices were the lowest I’ve seen in the Caribbean. Very nice!
Sint Maarten / Saint Martin
St. Maarten/St. Martin is a unique place. This small island is seamless (there are no border gates), but is governed by two nations – France and The Netherlands. A call from the French side to the the Dutch is an international call; currencies are different, same with language and electrical currents. I chose the Dutch side – mainly because it’s less expensive and they speak English!
Friday, March 24 – St. Maarten
My usual first day in a place will hold form today – roaming and exploring. And what I’m seeing in the small town of Simpson Bay reminds me a lot of the stretch of highway A1A along the Florida Atlantic coast. Many shops, restaurants and hotels. They even have casinos here. None of it is all that attractive or interesting to me. But that’s okay, there are plenty of other things to see here. (One bright spot: there is no cruise ship terminal here, that is located further to the east in Philipsburg)
St. Maarten Yacht Club MarinaKim Sha BeachI’m now back on Simpson Bay Beach where, after a quick stop at the apartment to drop off my stuff, I returned for a swim! Surprisingly, this stretch of the beach is not very busy. Nice for me!
Book Recommendation
Last fall I went to see the musical Come From Away, which tells the story of the 38 international flights that descended upon Newfoundland following the closure of U.S. airspace on 9/11. It’s an amazing story about how the people of Gander, Newfoundland met the passengers of these flights with open arms. The musical was based on the book The Day the World Came to Town. After seeing the show I placed a hold on the eBook through the library. Well, I finally received my copy last week. A great read. I’m guessing most of you have already read the book (I’m late to the game, as usual), but if you haven’t, I highly recommend it!
Saturday, March 25 – St. Maarten
Today I’m going to take a tour of the beaches located around this part of the island. One is particularly interesting. Let’s go!
Back on Simpson Bay Beach for the start of the tour.It’s a great walking beach……and the airport is located right next to a section of the beach.View back to the beach from the southern point of the bay.Yikes!I’ve now worked my way northwest to Maho Beach.I’m here kind of early in the morning. It will be more crowded later in the day because……the beach is located at the end of the airport’s runway; therefore making it a great spot to watch the incoming airliners.Like this little commuter plane! I’m going to return here later, on my way back, when more flights are scheduled to land.Making my way further north, I’ve now reached Mullet Bay Beach.View of the beach from the south breakwater, with a fisherman in the distance.I’m going to make my way out to the point……looking back at the beach……and then further north up the coast.My last stop to the north is Cupecoy “Beach”. Pretty, but not much of a beach though, is it?More of the “Beach”.Views from along the coastline of Cupecoy Bay.This bar along the coast had some nice U.S. representation (including Wisco!). Okay, I’m now back at Maho Beach, and we have an incoming flight!An American Airlines 737.#nozoom
There is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the island that I’d like to visit today. There’s a problem though. The taxi ride from my apartment to the site will cost 65 USD. Each way! Sorry, that’s not happening! I need to find an alternate method to get there. After a little research, I’ve come up with a solution…
In the neighboring town of Basseterre they have a bus terminal where I can catch a ride to the site (and back). There’s one caveat though – from what I’ve read, the drawback of the bus ride is the fact that it drops off its passengers at the base of a steep hill that leads to the site, whereas a taxi will take the passengers to the top of the hill. Mmmm…I’m up for the hike! How bad can it be?
The walk to Basseterre from my apartment took 40 minutes. While I was in town I stopped by the tourist office to confirm that I could take the bus to the UNESCO location. The woman there confirmed my plan, but did warn me about the hill. I’m still going for it!
The bus terminal in Basseterre. Minibuses actually!
When I got to the terminal I went up to the first bus in line to ask the driver if he was going to Brimstone Hill (the UNESCO site). He confirmed that he was, and that he would stop at the base of the hill to drop me off (there are no set bus stops, you just shout to the driver when you want to exit). The buses don’t depart the terminal until they are full; fortunately though this bus only had a couple spots left to fill, so I only had about a 5 minute wait until we departed.
So, we’re rolling along and I’m confident that the driver will stop for me at Brimstone Hill. Well, all of a sudden I noticed a sign for Brimstone Hill, and we’re not stopping! I kind of looked out the window and said, “Hey, I was supposed to exit there!”. The woman sitting next to me asked if that’s where I wanted to stop, and when I said yes, she yelled out to the driver to stop. He immediately recognized his mistake and put the (mini)bus in reverse to take me back to the site entrance. And it turns out the woman sitting next to me was the bus driver’s Mom. Pretty funny!
The ride to Brimstone Hill took 25 minutes. The cost?? 1.30 USD.
Brimstone Hill contains a well-preserved (and restored) fortress designed by British military engineers and built by enslaved Africans. The first cannons were mounted on the Hill in 1690. By 1736, the fort had 49 guns and was considered impregnable. However, in 1782, 8,000 French troops attacked the fort and took control from the British. Ironically though, a year later the Treaty of Paris returned the island and its fortifications to the British. In 1852 the troops at the fort were reassigned and it was abandoned. The restoration of the fortress began in the 1960s. The entry fee was 15 USD.
At first I thought that the hill I was climbing was what you can see in the background. Not too bad, right? It’s a little deceiving though, because it continues to rise further back and out of view.I’m now on the part of the hill that I could see from the road below. Still further to go to get to the fort (hill on the left).Almost there! (fort on the left)
The walk up the hill actually wasn’t bad at all. Took 20 minutes (including photo stops). The hills in Dominica and St. Vincent were much more difficult to hike. (Including the volcano, of course!)
The fort is on the left.Final steps up to the fort.In the background is Saint Martin / Sint Maarten (the next stop on my trip)The remains of the Officers’ Quarters.Ordinance Store HouseView of the fort from the adjacent hill.The Heritage Site is rather spread out. The fort is on the upper left, the Officers’ Quarters on the right, and I’m down at the Ordinance Store House.The view looking east along the coast.Another view of Saint Martin / Sint Maarten.
I had a 10 minute wait to catch a return bus to Basseterre (just wave your hand, and they’ll stop). On my walk back to the apartment I stopped for another smoothie – this time I went with pineapple/strawberry, with a touch of ginger. Awesome!
Tuesday, March 21 – St. Kitts
Nothing very special planned for today. I’m just going to take a walk back to Basseterre and roam around a bit.
Two massive ships in port today. It’s going to be busy in town!Old Treasury BuildingThe CircusSt. George Anglican ChurchThe Immaculate Conception Co-CathedralThe is Port Zante, where the cruise ships dock. It is packed with passengers today.Port Zante contains shops, bars and restaurants.Fuel Price Check: 14.02 ECD/gallon, That works out to 5.19 USD/gallon.
Had to make another smoothie stop on the way back to the apartment. This time I went with Roland’s recommendation: banana, oatmeal, green peanut, beet root, ginger, coconut milk, almond milk, and vanilla yogurt. Very good!
I have some things I need to get done around the apartment today: laundry, journal entry, St. Kitts planning (my next stop), and some personal finance stuff. Boring, I know, but necessary.
Antigua Information
Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar
Language: English
Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the left
Weather: Highs in the low 80s, Lows in the low 70s, moderate humidity
Covid Entry Requirements: None
Mask Wearing: Occasional
Electrical Outlets: U.S. type
Drinkable Tap Water: Yes, but it didn’t taste the greatest!
Time Zone: Same as Eastern Time in the U.S. (now that Daylight Savings Time is in place)
Saturday, March 18 – transit from Antigua to St. Kitts
My flight to St. Kitts is at around 3pm, and I was able to get a late checkout from the Airbnb, so my morning was rather leisurely.
Travel Note: When staying at an Airbnb, without a car and in a location with no Uber/Lyft service, I’ve learned that it’s important to acquire taxi driver contact information, whether it’s via the Airbnb host or the driver who picked you up from the airport/ferry terminal. It’s not like when you’re staying at a hotel, where taxis are readily available.
For my ride to the airport I used the driver that picked me up on my arrival in Antigua – Chamouy. The ride took about 20 minutes and cost 25 USD.
Side Note: Chamouy has worked with my Airbnb host for quite a while, and he filled me in on the weird configuration of the building where the Airbnb is located (all commercial except for one apartment). Apparently the entire building used to be apartments, but it was decided to switch almost all of it over to commercial space in order to generate a more dependable rental income stream. Interesting.
The Antigua airport is pretty nice. There were many U.S. departures on the board when I was there: Atlanta, Charlotte, Miami, JFK, and Newark.And this was a surprise! March Madness being shown in the Antigua airport departure area (maybe all of those U.S. flights had something to do with it!)
My flight to St. Kitts was with British Airways. Like my previous BA flight, it was on a wide body 777. In this case, the flight arrived from London; some of the passengers deplaned in Antigua, and the rest got off in St. Kitts. Not many passengers boarded in Antigua (maybe about 10 of us). The flight to St. Kitts took 20 minutes and cost 153 USD.
The taxi ride from the airport to my Airbnb in Frigate Bay took 15 minutes and cost 21 USD.
A little outdoor area adjacent to my apartment. That’s the Airbnb host’s house to the right.The entrance to my unit.A nice little studio.5 nights @ 80 USD/ntAnd bonus! March Madness is being shown in St. Kitts too!
Sunday, March 19 – St. Kitts
This morning’s priority was a grocery store run. The walk there took 30 minutes each way. Not terrible!
After that, I just took a walk around the Frigate Bay area where my apartment is located.
Down the road from my apartment, looking southeast at Ballast Bay.Royal St. Kitts Golf CourseMarriott ResortHere I’m by the Marriott, looking across the golf course at my Airbnb (it’s just above the green house in the middle of the picture).Frigate Bay Beach, a 20 minute walk from my apartmentI blew it! Should have stayed here!This is North Frigate Bay, where the Marriott is located. On this side of the island is the Atlantic Ocean, which has much rougher seas than the Caribbean, where Frigate Bay Beach is located. (Yes, the two bodies of water are that close together on this part of the island)I came across this roadside smoothie truck on my way back to the apartment.Went with a strawberry-banana (5.50 USD). Yum!
I spent the rest of the day working on this journal entry, watching March Madness, and following along online as the Wisconsin Women’s Hockey Team won their 7th National Championship. Amazing!!
Also, I’ve updated the map to show my latest movements. The link is here, in case you haven’t bookmarked already (and if you haven’t, what are you waiting for?!?).
