JE 84

Maui to The Big Island (Hawaii)

Friday, March 5 – Kihei

Today’s going to be fun. I’m heading out early to visit Haleakala National Park.

Established in 1916, the park covers over 33 thousand acres. Haleakala “Crater” is the centerpiece of the park. Although, it’s actually not a crater, but an erosional valley. Nowhere else on earth can you drive from sea level (Kahului) to 10,023 feet (the summit) in only 38 miles!

Leaving around 7am, it took me about an hour and 15 minutes to drive from my hotel to the park entrance. My plan is to visit the summit and (hopefully) get in a couple hikes within the park.

Travel Note: I was originally planning on visiting the park yesterday. Thankfully though the park’s website provides weather conditions and forecasts for the high elevation at the summit (which can be totally different than that at the beach in Kihei!). Yesterday’s forecast was for clouds and rain. Pass!

At the summit!
Not very busy this morning. Nice!
Looking down at the Visitor Center (elevation 9,740 feet)
The Haleakala Observatories (unfortunately not open to the public)
Looking at the NW peninsula of Maui and the island of Lanai
A view of the crater

The trailhead for my first hike of the day is located adjacent to the Visitor Center. The hike is named Keoneheehee (Sliding Sands), which is an out-and-back route that heads downhill into the crater. The round-trip is 4 miles with and elevation change of 2,500 feet! The rule of thumb is to figure it will take twice has long to hike out as it took to go in. I’m not sure if I’ll be making the full descent.

What a view!
I feel like I’m on Mars!
You can see a few hikers on the trail below
It’s amazing that any plant life can survive up here
The clouds are starting to roll in…
Not a good sign…I’m heading back out

The hike going in was super easy, but I could tell I was feeling the impact of the high altitude (lightheaded, headache), and did a couple turnaround short ascents to determine how I would do traveling back up the trail. Eventually I decided I had gone far enough and that a retreat was in order. Humbling, but necessary. The round-trip took me about 2 1/2 hours, with many rest (catch my breath) stops on the way out. I later spoke to one of the park rangers and described where I had stopped on the trail. Based on that information, she informed me that the hike took me a mile into the crater, with an elevation change of 400 feet. Not terrible, I guess.

Maybe I should have tried going by horse!

Needless to say, my plans for a second hike today were canceled. On my way out of the park though I made a stop at the Kalahaku Overlook (elevation 9,324 feet). It provides another perspective of the crater.

This is the view of NW Maui, now obscured by clouds!

My final stop in the park was a place called Hosmer Grove (elevation 6,750 feet). It consists of a short nature trail (1/2 mile loop) and a picnic area. After a snack and a rest, I checked out the trail…

A few rain drops at the end of the hike!

And I made a few purchases today at the park! Left and lower center are a sticker and pin ($10). Upper center is a Senior Lifetime National Park Pass ($80). I just qualified for this in January, so the timing is perfect! And it should pay for itself on this trip alone, because in addition to visiting this park on Maui, there are also two parks on the Big Island that I intend to see, and the entry fee to each is $30. Finally, on the right is a National Parks Passport ($13), where stamps can be collected from each park visited.

And here’s my 1st stamp!

Saturday, March 5 – Kihei

Okay, the park is not going to beat me! I’m going back to Haleakala this morning to tackle my second planned hike.

Before the hike however, I’m going to make a return to the Kalahaku Overlook, hoping for a cloud-free view…

Much better!

Today’s trail is called Halemauu, and is a 2.2 mile out-and-back route with an elevation change of 400 feet. Similar to what I did yesterday. The difference from yesterday though, is that this trailhead is at 7,990 feet rather than 9,740 feet. Hopefully that will help alleviate my altitude issues.

A beautiful landscape. What a difference from yesterday’s stark terrain.
Kind of a steep drop off here!

Below are a couple panorama photos from my phone…

This was a great hike! I felt much better today. It’s amazing what a difference 1,800 feet in elevation makes. The out-and-back took me about 1 1/2 hours.

Not too far from the park is the town of Makawao. This little place is known for its speciality shops and down-home eateries. Touristy? Yes. But I’m going anyway! First things first…Lunch!

Grandma’s Weekend Special: Eggs Benedict (on a waffle!) and Guava/Pineapple/Orange Juice ($18). I think this is the first proper sit down meal I’ve had since Debbie and Ron graciously bought me dinner in Waikiki. Kind of sad, right?

I did see some some work by a couple artists that I liked, but nothing specific, so I’m going to check out their websites and maybe have something shipped to me.

Sunday, March 6 – transit from Maui to The Big Island (Hawaii)

My flight to Hilo today is not until noon, so that allows me a nice leisurely morning. Feels good after my early trips to Haleakala the last two days. The Hawaiian Airlines flight ($86 + $15 bag fee) is on the usual 2×3 seater (I think it’s a Boeing 717), and takes about 35 minutes.

Travel Note: My Maui rental averaged 42 mpg. I thinks that’s amazing, considering the all switchback roads and high altitude driving.

My rental for the week ($106/day). I ordered a Compact, but was upgraded to a Compact SUV. Normally an upgrade is a good thing, but all I’m thinking about is the reduction in gas mileage!

As I was waiting for the rental, I realized that I hadn’t provided a glimpse of my luggage for the trip. So, here you go…

My backpack is going to need a serious cleaning when I get home!

I flew into Kona, but for the next week I’ll be staying in a hotel in Hilo. The drive took about 90 minutes.

Travel Note: I’m flying out of Kona when I head back to the mainland on the 15th. That’s why I flew there from Maui and picked up my rental there. In hindsight though, I should have considered flying into Hilo, picking up the rental there and then dropping it off in Kona. I’m not sure if it would have been cost-effective, but I should have at least considered it.

My accommodation is the SCP Hilo Hotel.

The view across the street from the hotel
My room is on the ground floor next to this garden.
$137/night. Least expensive hotel so far! (The Honolulu Airbnb was less though)

JE 83

Maui

Thursday, March 3 – Kihei

I decided to forgo any driving today. Not the brightest fiscal move, but I think I need a break. I was up early though and went for a nice long walk along the waterfront (gotta get my steps average back up!).

A clear view of Kahoolawe this morning. And that’s Molokini Crater in front of it.
There’s a nice walking path along the waterfront heading south from my hotel
I like this church at the Grand Wailea Maui
Resorts lining the beach
Some serious tree trimming work!
This was funny – the dog wanted to follow her offshore! She ended up turning around and heading back to the beach.
This is Kamaole Beach Park near my hotel
This tree was very popular with the Monarchs!
Ooops!
This is the road that runs along the waterfront. It’s generally pretty busy.

I ended up walking for a little over 3 hours. It felt great!

The rest of the day was spent on some rather less than exciting pursuits – reading, napping, and planning for tomorrow’s excursion.

Sorry today’s post is rather boring; I promise tomorrow will be better!

JE 82

Maui – Honoapiilani Highway

Monday, February 28 – Kihei

Woke up early this morning for my sunrise yoga class. Oh, wait…that was actually a dream I had! I’m in Maui now! I was up early though, so I made my way down to the beach to see what’s going on.

A little bit of sunrise color, even though we’re on the west side of Maui. That’s the island of Kahoolawe in the background.

I spent the early part of the morning doing a quick update to the journal, then was ready to hit the road!

My first stop is the Iao Valley. This is a State Park that features some hiking trails and the Iao Needle, a spire that rises more than 1,200 feet from the valley floor. It was about a 30 minute drive from my hotel, and the entry/parking fee was $15.

Beautiful view of the valley from the park
The needle is on the left
This photo was taken on one the hiking trails in the park

Just down the road from the park are the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens. Being so close, I had to stop. (plus, it was free, my favorite word!) It was established in 1952 to celebrate the diverse heritage of Hawaii’s immigrants as well as the original people to inhabit the islands.

The Iao Valley is located on the peninsula that is the northwest part of the island. While I was in this area I wanted to take a drive on the road along the the northern and eastern coast of the peninsula that I had read about called the Honoapiilani Highway. Quoting from my reading…Driving this route is not for the faint of heart: the road weaves along coastal cliffs, and there are lots of blind curves; it’s not wide enough for two cars to pass in places, so one of you (most likely you) will have to reverse on this nail-biter of a “highway”.

I can attest to the fact that everything in that sentence is true; including the part about having to go in reverse to let a car pass – that was me! The curves were so extreme in places that along the way I saw two vehicles pulled over so one of its occupants could throw up on the side of the road!

Check out all the switchbacks! (labeled Hwy 340 on this map)
Blind curve ahead! Fortunately there were some shoulders like this one where vehicles could pull off the road.
Narrow switchback
The occasional shoulders along the way also provided opportunities for some amazing views!
An enterprising vendor!

And as a bonus, adjacent to the “highway” is the Ohai Trail. This 1.2 mile loop was a fun hike and offered some wonderful scenery!

The two specs in the middle of the photo are hikers!
The trail winds along to the left, where you can see the blue information pedestal

This was a fun day! I gotta say though, I was pretty fatigued at the end of the drive. It took a lot of concentration. It was invigorating though. However, I think being a passenger would be pretty cool too!

Travel Note: So, you may recall that a few days ago I predicted the demise of daily housekeeping services in hotels. Well, here at the Day’s Inn they in fact do offer daily service. Not only that, even if you don’t want it, they require that the room be cleaned at least once every three days!

And in light of the high cost of visiting Maui, I have some good news!!! I’ve discovered that there’s a Subway about a mile from my hotel that offers the $3.99 daily special! Yessss!!! (there’s also a grocery store nearby; can you guess where I’ll getting most of my meals?)

Steps Update: The trip is now 75% complete, so let’s see how I’m progressing. As predicted, with the addition of a rental car, my daily average is dropping; it now sits at 16.4k. Daily max is 30k, and the min is 10k.

Tuesday, March 1 – Kihei

Out the door early this morning! (no, not for sunrise yoga – sorry, that joke’s getting old!) Today I’m heading to the southeast of the island and will be accomplishing the proverbial two birds, one stone thing. My ultimate destination is the Waiʻānapanapa State Park; and the only way to get there is via the iconic Road to Hana.

Now, my hotel is in the southwest of the island and the park is in the southeast. So, to get there you’d think I would simply head due east, right? Nope. The only way to get there is to loop around to the north and then south along the east coast. It’s about a 2 hour and 15 minute drive (60 miles).

The route from my hotel

The Road to Hana (TRH) officially begins in Kahului, and ends in, well, Hana. Like the Honoapiilani Highway, TRH features blind curves, narrow roads and great scenery. Unlike the Honoapiilani Highway, TRH also includes several single lane bridges.

Single Lane Bridge
I like the white church peaking out from the greenery
There were some nice rest stops along the way
Waiʻānapanapa State Park is a couple miles north of Hana, but I couldn’t drive TRH without stopping in Hana!
Hana Bay Beach
On the drive back, I took a few pictures of what TRH looks like in the navigator app
I know what you’re thinking, instead of taking a picture of his phone, why didn’t the idiot just do a screenshot?
Well, because the idiot couldn’t remember how to do a screenshot!

Sidenote: I know that The Road to Hana gets all the accolades, but in my opinion, the Honoapiilani Highway is the better drive. Don’t get me wrong, TRH is great; I just feel like the HH offers better views and a little more of an extreme driving experience.

Entrance to Waiʻānapanapa State Park is by reservation only (which I like). Bookings open two weeks in advance of the requested date. And the reservations are on a timed basis, with four three hour windows each day. The visitor is not restricted to buying only one window though, so I ended up purchasing three reservations that covered the period from 10am to 6pm (the cost of each time slot was only $10, plus $5 per person entry fee for the whole day – so my total cost was $35).

Waiʻānapanapa is popular for its stunning coastal views and rugged lava shoreline that features sea arches, blow holes, and the black sand beach of Pailoa Bay. The park also includes a 2 mile out-and-back coastal hiking trail that was awesome!

A little overcast today, but I’m not complaining. The weather Gods have been kind to me on this trip!
This lava shoreline is amazing!
An uncommon sight in Maui – a black sand beach
Cute story!

And thanks to the late tipoff in Madison, I was able to watch Wisconsin defeat Purdue and win the B1G Championship when I got back to the hotel! A good day!

Wednesday, March 2 – Kihei

I’ve done a LOT of driving the last couple days, so the plan is to stay fairly close to the hotel today. I’m leading things off with an early morning walk on the beach.

There’s a highway overlook a little ways up the coast near Maalaea that’s supposed to be good spot for whale watching, so that’s my first destination of the day.

A plaque on display at the overlook
My whale watching spot…

…and I had an amazing viewing experience! I saw several whales breaking the surface and blowing water, and witnessed two whales breaching. Incredible! Sadly, I have no pictures to show for it. It was nearly impossible (at least for me) to scan the ocean surface for a whale, and when one was spotted, have the camera in place, focused and ready to take the photo. Great memories though!

Working my way back south, the next stop is the McGregor Lighthouse. This is also known to be a good whale watching spot, but I had no luck here.
Time to check out the Kealia Pond NWR. This is a nearly 700 acre coastal salt marsh.
Impressive boardwalk network
And check out this beach! Very much off the beaten path!
The refuge is home to 30 species of waterfowl, shorebirds, and migratory ducks

After returning to the hotel I took a walk down to Subway to pick up a sandwich for dinner. There’s a nice oceanside park nearby; a perfect place to dine! While I was there, I noticed a little activity offshore…

What’s everybody looking at?
Them too?
It’s hard to tell, but that’s a whale amongst the paddle boarders. Shortly after I took this picture, a lifeguard came on the loudspeaker to order the humans to move at least 100 yards away from the whale!

I started the day with a walk on the beach…

…and finished it watching the sunset

Fuel Price Check:

JE 81

Kauai to Maui

Saturday, February 26 – Kapaa

Sunrise yoga? Check.

Leisurely couple hours? Check.

By late morning I was sufficiently motivated to take a drive to check out Wailua Falls. It took around 20 minutes from the hotel.

The road into the falls is a dead end, and there is an overlook from the road that provides a downward side look at the falls. This is where everyone congregates.

This is the view from the road. Not that great, right?

However, I read on a blog about a trail the winds down from the road to the falls. However, it’s steep, muddy, and slippery. But it is fairly short and there are supposed to be ropes along the route to provide assistance. I’m going for it!

The trailhead wasn’t easy to spot. Fortunately, the blog post included directions on how to find it. I actually had to climb over a fence and ignore a “No Access Beyond This Point” sign to get to it!
Like on parts of the Kalalau Trail, I didn’t take many pictures on the hike; because I needed both hands for support!
The rope was especially helpful in this section of the trail! The descent was significantly more difficult than the ascent.
Made it! It took me about 20 minutes.
A little better than the the view from the road, right?

And fortunately there were no incidents on the hike. Well, there was one…I forgot to apply insect repellent. The mosquitos were ruthless!

I got back to hotel by mid-afternoon and went for a bike ride.

Sunday, February 27 – transit from Kauai to Maui

Thankfully my flight to Maui doesn’t depart until around noon. That gives me plenty of time for one last sunrise yoga class. Perfect!

I enjoyed my time on Kauai. I’d say a weeklong stay results in a nice relaxing itinerary. Highlights:

  • Kalalau Trail
  • Waimea Canyon
  • Sunrise Yoga (of course!)
  • The hotel’s setting / grounds / room with balcony and a great view

In my opinion, the only cons to the island are that it’s rather expensive, and traffic can be congested (although, to be fair, there is some road work going on at the moment).

Sidenote: I ended up getting 40 mpg with my rental. Not bad!

The Hawaiian Airlines flight ($108 + $15 bag fee) took about 45 minutes on a plane that was the same size as the one that brought me to Kauai. I will say though that the Maui airport is huge in comparison to the one on Kauai. They even have a tram going to the rental car complex. Speaking of rental cars…

…here’s my baby for the next 7 days! ($104/day)

My hotel for the week is the Day’s Inn Oceanfront. It’s located on the west side of the island and the drive from the airport (which is in the northwest) took about 20 minutes.

This is Keawakapu Beach in front of the hotel. It looks pretty long; great for walking! Yes please!
These four rooms at the hotel are the only ones with beach views (can’t imagine how much they go for!?!). The rest of the rooms are in buildings that project back towards the road.
I have a ground floor corner room. My building is about the 6th one back from the beach.
$341/night. Welcome to Maui!!

JE 80

Kauai – Hanalei

Thursday, February 24 – Kapaa

I’m tired this morning people! The hikes of the last two days (especially yesterday’s) wore me out. (and I have not yet taken a day off on this trip, despite Kait’s blessing!) I did over 20k steps on Tuesday and a little over 30k yesterday.

So I think I’m going to take it slow today. But not so slow that I’m going to skip sunrise yoga. I’m on that!

After class I spent the morning relaxing and beginning the draft of my next journal entry.

Travel Note 1: I just noticed that there is no telephone in my room. I guess that kind of makes sense, right? I just don’t recall ever staying in a rather large hotel complex like this one and being in a room without a phone.

Travel Note 2: Since the onset of Covid, hotels have been cutting back big time on housekeeping services. The hotels I’ve stayed at on this trip will only provide towel change outs and trash removal upon request. I did convince them to do a full room clean at my hotel in Waikiki after I’d been there for over a week. I can understand how this policy was put in place during the height of the pandemic, but I’m curious to see how this will play out as things subside. I have a feeling there will never be a return to daily room cleaning (at least at hotels not at a four or five star level).

I was ready to get out a little bit this afternoon, so I grabbed a bike and took off on the path along the waterfront. A posted a bunch of pictures from my last ride, but here’s a new one from today…

Interesting end point for the path. Kind of nice view though!

On the way back to the hotel I made a little detour to roam around the cute shopping/dining district here in Kapaa. It’s a little touristy, but not terrible.

And how about the library being located on the waterfront?? Awesome!

Fuel Price Check: …

This price check I actually felt in my wallet! I topped up my rental car’s tank a couple days ago.

Sidenote: I didn’t use my rental car at all today. For the amount I’m paying for it, I feel a little guilty (stupid?) for leaving sit idle. Oh well…

Friday, February 25 – Kapaa

What did I do this morning at sunrise? Anybody? That’s right! Yoga!

That got me a little motivated, but I still didn’t get out the door until about 11am. I think one more day of light activity is needed.

Travelnote: There are a lot of roosters here in Kauai. A lot. And my hotel doesn’t have air conditioning. That’s really not a problem though, because I just leave the balcony door wide open and the breeze off the ocean feels great. (Would I do that if I was on the ground floor? Mmmm…I digress) Well, actually it is a problem, because the roosters start cock-a-doodle-doing very early in the morning! And they’re loud, especially with the door wide open! Fortunately though I have earplugs. And not just any earplugs; I had these babies custom-fit to my ear canals. They’re amazing. One of my more deft purchases! (along with the ’93 Nissan, haha)

I’m traveling north again today to the town of Hanalei. It’s touted as representing “Old-World” Hawaii, and it even has a cute one-lane bridge just as you enter the town. I think it’s a little on the touristy side though. (I let you be the judge after viewing the following photos…)

Sidenote: Can you believe that my anti-touristy ethos has been defied on two consecutive days? Me neither. Just goes to show you how dangerous fatigue can be!

Anybody remember the song Puff The Magic Dragon? Well, it includes the following lyrics:

Puff the magic dragon lived by the sea
And frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Honah Lee

Local folklore claims that Hanalei (Honah Lee) was the inspiration for the song. Sadly, some party-poopers at a local newspaper (of all places!) have since debunked this legend. Booo I say!

The drive from my hotel to Hanalei took about 40 minutes (yay! my rental car is back in use!)

This is Hanalei Bay
No lifeguard. Don’t swim!
This is a long beach, 2 miles, with a beautiful backdrop (too tired to walk it though!)
Waioli Huiia Church
Amazing roadside view

It was a fun little road trip!

Price Check: There’s a McDonald’s close to my hotel, so I couldn’t resist – I had to get a cone! And the price was surprisingly low: $1.87. I was expecting something closer to the $2+ I found in Waikiki.

JE 79

Kauai – Kalalau Trail

Tuesday, 2-22-22 – Kapaa

Led off the day with sunrise yoga. I could get used to this! My mission today is to explore the South Shore of the island – mainly to hike the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail.

This is a fairly easy out-and-back trail that runs about 2 miles each way. It starts at Shipwreck Beach on Keoneloa Bay and goes to Mahaulepu Beach near Kawailoa Bay. It’s a beautiful hike along the coast, and features some stunning cliffs. There are two different routes on the trail – a) hugging the coast along the cliffs, and b) along the treeline further inland. I took the cliffs on the way out and the trees on the way back.

I’m actually a little ways into the hike here. I’m placing this picture first though because it offers a nice view of Shipwreck Beach.
This is close to the start of the hike, and WOW, what a location for a wedding!
More wedding stuff! That’s a bride having her picture taken on the cliff.
That’s a crab eyeballing me in the upper left of the photo!
Off to the left is Poipu Bay Golf Course
A small part of the trail runs along the edge of the golf course. Per their web site, a morning tee time at Poipu Bay will cost $239. (there’s a discount after noon!)
That is Mahaulepu Beach coming into view
I assumed the building on the beach was some type of public/government facility. Up close though I discovered that it’s a private residence. What a spot!
Adjacent to Mahaulepu Beach is a short hike to Makauwahi Cave.
The “crawl-in” entrance!
And it opens up to this beautiful amphitheatre!
I didn’t take many pictures on the hike back; but here’s one shot of the tree-lined path

This was a fun hike! Following that I made some stops to check out a couple other beaches that were close by.

This is Lawai Beach. A cute, off-the-beaten path place for swimming & snorkeling!
And my last stop was Poipu Beach
Very Nice!
My shuttle bus driver warned me to only swim at beaches with lifeguards!

On my way back to the hotel I stopped at another restaurant recommended by my shuttle bus driver. This one specializing in Hawaiian food. Unfortunately though, it was closed. According to their website, and the signs onsite, they should have been open when I arrived; maybe a one-off thing? Oh well, maybe I’ll try again if I’m back in the area. So for dinner I ended up grabbing some things at a grocery store that is within walking distance of my hotel.

This has become my go-to, end of the day reading spot at the hotel.

Wednesday, February 23 – Kapaa

Sadly, I’m going to miss this morning’s yoga class…

…that’s because I have a reservation at Hā’ena State Park on the North Shore. I booked this about three weeks ago. Reservations are required because the park is home to the popular Kalalau Trail. It is claimed to be “one of the most adventurous hiking trails in the world“, and serves as one of the only ways to access the Napali Coast via land.

There are two forms of day-pass reservations to the park: a) entry with parking, and b) entry via a shuttle bus. The former option is hard to come by, as many parking spots are reserved for Hawaiian residents. So I booked the latter ($35). The first shuttle runs at 6:30am and the last one leaves the park at 5:30pm. The morning shuttles into the park depart every 30 minutes, and the reservations are on a departure time basis. My booking was for 9am. (And you do NOT want to miss the last shuttle out of the park at 5:30pm, because there is no cell service in the park, and it’s a 6 mile walk back to the shuttle park-and-ride lot!) The buses hold 25 people, and the ride into the park takes about 30 minutes.

Checking Google Maps this morning, the drive from my hotel to the park-and-ride was going to take about 40 minutes. I was super stressed though, because the park’s website warned that any late arrivals would need to go standby on a subsequent bus. So I left the hotel around 7:15. And…I arrived at the P&R pretty much right at 8:00. Now, here’s the cool part: The staff at the P&R were very accommodating and held the bus for some folks with 8am reservations that had just pulled up to the lot. And because of that, I had time to ask if a seat was available on that bus, and if so, could I grab it? The answer: Yes and Yes. Awesome! I’ll be arriving at the park an hour ahead of schedule! (You’re probably wondering why I didn’t just make an 8am reservation? Well, the usual answer would be because I’m an idiot; but in this case the 8:00am (and the 8:30am) slot(s) were fully booked when I made my reservation. This one hour advantage will prove to be critical to my hiking plans.

The Kalalau Trail offers two options for hikers with the day-pass (like me)…

The first option is to go from Ke’e Beach in the park to Hanakapi’ai Beach. This 2 mile (4 miles out and back) route is the most popular with hikers.

The second option is to continue a further 2 miles (4 miles out and back) on the trail which culminates at the Hanakapi’ai waterfall. This portion of the trail is not maintained however, and becomes more difficult as it meanders over rocks and fallen trees.

And I should point out that the option one hike is no cakewalk, with severe elevation changes, rock obstructions and a creek crossing. So, my plan was to do the hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach, see how that went, both on time and effort, and then determine if I wanted to continue on to the falls. (with the 5:30pm hard stop in the forefront of my thoughts!)

I was a little worried that the trail would be packed with people, but it became obvious that the reservation system that the park has implemented is working, because the trail was sparsely populated.

So, enough of my yapping, let’s do this!

On our arrival, the park ranger mentioned that it rained here yesterday. The bad news? That means the trail is going to be muddy and slippery. The good news? How lucky have I been with the weather on this trip? I booked this reservation three weeks ago, and missed out on rain by a day! I’m just waiting for the weather karma God to bite me. Hard!

A steep, rocky climb from the get-go.
The rugged, razor-sharp cliffs that define the Napali coast
A rather narrow path…
…and you don’t want to slip!
Mmmmm…
Approaching Hanakapi’ai Beach. Will this be my turnaround point, or will I continue on?
Water crossing ahead!
This looks a little dodgy. Are there other options?
I like this better!
Arrived at Hanakapi’ai Beach! Time for a rest.
This portion of the hike (2 miles) took me 1 hour and 20 minutes, which includes some delays for photo ops.

I’m happy with my time so far, so the plan is to continue on the trail to the waterfall, with a status check on my location in 1 1/2 hours.

Onward!
Again?
My pacesetters…
This is part of the trail. It’s hard to see, but it is slick, muddy shear rock! There were quite a few spots like this (or worse) along the way. I don’t have pictures though because I needed both hands to support myself!
A beautiful stop along the trail
The crossings are starting to get a little treacherous
I like this plan. It got to the point were it wasn’t worth risking a fall to keep my feet dry.
The cool water felt great! I ended up splashing some on my face (and head), and used it to wash the mud off my hands! (cleaned the mud off my shoes too!)
Another one…
Oh, Oh. I think I’m getting close!
Hello Hanakapiai Waterfall! (for scale, note the people at the bottom of the photo)
The hike from the beach to the waterfall (2 miles) took me 1 hour and 25 minutes. I’m actually surprised I did it that quickly, considering the difficulty of the terrain. However, knowing I was facing some time constraints, I didn’t stop very often for photos.

There is no doubt that I’ve experienced more impressive waterfalls in my travels, but the effort it took to reach Hanakapi’ai makes it special.

Coincidentally, my hike back to Hanakapi’ai Beach took 1 hour and 25 minutes.

After a short break on the beach, I started the hike back to the trailhead in Hā’ena Park. This final leg of the trail required 1 hour and 5 minutes to complete. So, all told, the hike covered 8 miles, with a duration of 6 hours, of which I figure breaks and photo ops accounted for about 45 minutes. This was a good day; I’m pretty happy that I accomplished this. I have to admit though, I’m beat!

Sidenote: I must say that I’m so impressed that I did not see one piece of trash along the trail during my hike.

On the drive back to the hotel, I made a stop at the roadside Hanalei Valley Overlook.

These are taro farms, which may have been planted in this valley as far back as 700 A.D.
The Hanalei River can be seen in the background

JE 78

Kauai – Waimea Canyon

Monday, February 21 – Kapaa

Good Morning! (picture taken from my balcony) BTW, I believe the bright star at the top of the picture is actually a planet – Venus. (I learned this at the Bishop Museum planetarium presentation)
I took this on the lawn by the seawall as I was waiting for the yoga class to start…
…and here we go!
View from my yoga mat at the conclusion of the class! I was tired! And sadly not a very good student. At one point, the poor instructor had to come over and show me an alternate position reserved specifically for weaklings! I really liked the class though. I plan on attending for the rest of the week. And now that the mask mandate is going away in Madison, I could see taking some classes when I get back in town.
The “Grab And Go” breakfast. Not the greatest, but you can’t beat the surroundings!

“Go West, Old Man!” That’s my motto as I travel to the west side of the island today. I’m going to take the west side highway to its very end in the northwest part of the island. The route will take me from my east side hotel, then loop along the south shore and finish by heading north along the west side. There are no options – that’s the only highway. It’s about a 40 mile drive, but will take about an hour and a half; rather slow for a few reasons: mainly two lane roads; low speed limits; and a switchback route to the north due to elevation gains.

This road trip has two main viewing objectives: the Napali Coast and the Waimea Canyon. This will be achieved via some lookouts along the route and one short hike.

This photo was just taken from the shoulder of the road. I like the river running through the edge of the canyon.
The cost to enter all of the lookouts along the highway was $15
Waimea Canyon, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, is approximately ten miles long and up to 3,000 feet deep
The pictures don’t do it justice.
The colors are amazing
Napali is the name of the dramatic cliffs covering 14 miles of the northwest Kauai coast. This part of the coast is the Kalalau Valley.
This lookout was essentially the northernmost point of highway 550.
After a short hike, the reward was a great view of the valley.
The hike was short, but steep at times…
…that transitioned to heavy vegetation.
A great view of the valley!

I have a reservation on Wednesday morning to enter Ha’ena State Park, which includes another Napali Coast hike. Looking forward to that!

My rental car shuttle bus driver was very friendly and provided me with some local dining suggestions (I was the only passenger on the bus!). One happened to be on the way back to the hotel, so I stopped there for some takeaway.

Konohiki Seafood. It doesn’t look like much, but the customer traffic was nonstop while I was there (locals, not tourists like me!).
Another Ahi Poke Bowl ($11). Hit the spot!

JE 77

Oahu to Kauai

Saturday, February 19 – Honolulu

My last day on Oahu. I enjoyed my time on this island. I didn’t plan on staying this long, but it worked out pretty well. I never got tired of gazing at Diamond Head. I’m not sure what it is about it, maybe the fact that it’s visible from so many points in Honolulu and Waikiki. After nearly six weeks though, I think I’m ready to move on.

For my last excursion, I’m walking to Chinatown to see about getting something to eat.

I hadn’t seen this on my previous walks. Oceanfront lawn bowling! Very cool.
I roamed through the food court in Chinatown, but nothing really caught my attention
I ended up grabbing some take away from this restaurant – not Chinese, Vietnamese…
Green Papaya Salad with Shrimp and Pork ($15). Tasty!
I chose to dine at the Aloha Tower complex (not far from Chinatown), where they have some nice shaded seating areas

Sunday, February 20 – transit from Oahu to Kauai

I had a 10am flight this morning from Honolulu to Lihue on Kauai via Hawaiian Airlines ($87 + $15 baggage fee). And how do you think I got to the airport? By bus, of course! (I’m going to miss the Oahu bus network!) The flight took about 40 minutes on a medium-sized plane (3 x 2 seating x 28 rows).

There are no Covid-related procedures in place when traveling between the islands. Once a traveler from the mainland has been cleared for arrival in Hawaii, they are able to travel freely interisland.

My awesome ride for the week! ($120/day. Yep, you read that right! That does include the Collision Damage coverage from Expedia/AIG however that’s $11/day)

I arrived a little too early to check into my hotel, so I ended up taking a quick drive up the east coast.

This is Anahola Beach Park

My hotel is also on the east side of the island. It’s called The ISO.

The hotel grounds
My room is on the right end of the 3rd floor in the middle building
$281/night
Not a bad view from my balcony!

As I was driving along the coast I noticed a nice walking/biking path along the waterfront. Definitely in my future! Coincidentally, during my check-in I discovered that the hotel has bikes available for the guests to use (At no charge…well, it’s actually part of the $25/day “resort fee” that’s included in the daily rate – which also includes sunrise yoga (I’ll be trying that!) and a grab-and-go breakfast). So, I dropped off my bags, changed clothes, and took off on a leisurely 1 1/2 hour bike ride.

Finished up the day with a swim in the pool and some reading in the lounge chair. Not a bad start to my week in Kauai!

JE 76

Oahu – Bishop Museum

Wednesday, February 16 – Honolulu

Sadly, nothing very exciting to report today folks. I spent the morning working on the journal and then decided to head out on my favorite Waikiki/Honolulu walk – the loop around Diamond Head. Never gets old!

I took my camera along, but nothing new or different really stood out along the way. Well, there was one…

I took a break in a little park near the entrance to Diamond Head; had a few visitors!

Thursday, February 17 – Honolulu

Today I visited the Bishop Museum on the west side of Honolulu. The museum provides information on the cultural and natural history of the state and the Pacific Islands in general. Some of you may have heard of the Polynesian Cultural Center located here on Oahu. Well, I considered visiting that as well, but thought the Bishop would be similar, but less touristy. Plus it was easier to get to! The bus ride took about 40 minutes. The museum entrance fee was $25, plus another $3 for a planetarium presentation.

Correction: So, I was wrong when I mentioned previously that bus fares would be decreasing for HOLO card users beginning March 1st. I received further information when I rode the bus today. It turns out that the fare will remain the same, but the cost of the card itself is going to increase from free to $2. So my indignation was not justified; I have, in fact, actually saved money in this case. Whew! I feel better now! (and as Georgina rightly pointed out, it seemed odd that bus fares would be going down as fuel prices were spiking…)

The museum was originally a school, built in the late 19th century
The planetarium hosted an interesting presentation on the methods of ancient Pacific navigation, utilizing the stars. And it concluded with a representation of what this evening’s night sky would look like here in Honolulu.
Hey! What’s that in the background?
The interior of the museum was beautiful
These panels are a recent creation and represent Kumulipo, The Creation Story
These are drums from Vanuatu
Tapuanu Mask
Tiki Statue from the Marquesan Islands
These statues are from New Zealand and Papua New Guinea
Ancient canoes of the Pacific
I like this painting. It depicts the Bishop family residence on Waikiki, ca. 1880s
There was fun exhibit of vintage surfing photos on display. This one is from 1929.

I ended up spending a fair amount of time at the museum. A very interesting place!

Sidenote: Near the bus stop for my return to town was a McDonald’s. The temptation was too great. I had to get a cone! And the price here was the lowest I have paid yet during my time here – $1.77. This makes three different prices I’ve paid for cones. (Not included the highest price I rejected at a restaurant in Waikiki) It just seems odd to me that the prices would not be consistent throughout the city. I haven’t been to a Madison McDonald’s in forever, but I would think the prices would be the same at every location. Maybe I’m totally off on this? I guess I’ll have to do some research when I get back!

Friday, February 18 – Honolulu

I’m kind of in Honolulu wind down mode today. (I depart on Sunday) I spent the morning doing some travel prep – reviewing all my reservations (flights, cars, hotels, parks) and decided to go to a FedEx Office and print them all out. I figured having hard copies might come in handy. And in the case of the park reservations, they’re actually required.

Just ended up walking over to Magic Island to hang out on a bench for part of the afternoon. Very relaxing! And for dinner, I went back to Mama Kim’s to pick up a Poke Bowl…

JE 75

Oahu – Pearl Harbor

Sunday, February 13 – Honolulu

Went kind of low-key today. Spent the morning working on the journal and some domestic necessities (email, finances, etc.). Maybe a little loafing around too. It is Sunday after all!

Now, it is Super Bowl Sunday, but I didn’t have a lot of interest in watching the game. If need be, I could watch the highlights on YouTube later (check out the commercials too!). Plus, the kickoff was around 1:30pm here, and it was just too nice outside to stay in watching TV. So, I ventured out this afternoon, with my favorite spot in mind – Magic Island. When I arrived there I was SHOCKED by what I saw – the park and beaches were nearly deserted, on a normally very busy Sunday. Wow! The Super Bowl is indeed a force of nature, even in Hawaii! And on the way back to the apartment I stopped at the grocery store. Same thing. Empty. Crazy!!

Tripnote: There’s a funny tale behind how Magic Island got its name. It’s actually a man-made peninsula (not an island), and the story goes that residents from the other side of the island would visit Honolulu on occasion. Well, on one of their trips they discovered that this peninsula had Magically appeared where nothing had been there before!

Monday, February 14 – Honolulu

This morning I’m back to slip F28 for my snorkeling adventure on the Honu Lani. And this time, it actually is a three-hour tour!

Not a huge amount of pictures to share today because, well, I was in the water, and I sadly don’t have a waterproof camera!

A little overcast as we depart the harbor
It was windy too, so it’s time to raise the sail!
A view of Magic Island…
…and the ceramic tile artwork on the Hilton
So, today was Valentine’s Day, and in honor of that the Captain announced there would be an open bar throughout the trip. Nice! I know this is going to surprise most of you, but I took advantage and sampled a mix of the tropical drinks (Mai Tai, Seabreeze, Pina Colada…). And yes, I did tip generously!
Post-snorkel chillin’…

I would rate today’s snorkeling experience as average at best. The overcast skies didn’t help the visibility, which was a little murky to start with. I did see some turtles and interesting fish though. It was a good day however; with some fun conversations with the crew and other passengers. I’m sure the alcohol didn’t hurt either!

Tuesday, February 15 – Honolulu

I made a return visit to Pearl Harbor today. I wanted to tour the Missouri and spend more time viewing the exhibits on the island.

On my walk to the bus stop I encountered something very unusual…RAIN! Fortunately it only lasted a few minutes.

Tripnote: I’m sure this lack of rain I’ve experienced on Oahu will come back to haunt me as I visit the other islands!

Entrance to the U.S.S. Missouri tour ($37)
Plaque commemorating the signing of the World War II surrender papers, which took place aboard the Missouri
A view of the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial
The airfield can be seen in the background
This is embedded in the deck in the place where the signing of the surrender papers took place
The three remaining Mooring Quays alongside the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial

It was another sobering visit to Pearl Harbor. I’m fortunate to have had the time to dig deeper into its history.

I finished the day on a kind of touristy note – I attended this free concert and hula demonstration near the Waikiki waterfront.