JE 4

Buenos Aires

Tuesday, January 15 – Buenos Aires

There was on and off rain today, so it was a good opportunity to hit a museum. And bonus! It was gratis Martes (free Tuesday) at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which is located fairly close to my apartment. It’s a wonderful collection, with works by many of the well know masters, and a nice Rodin display. I’ll post a couple pictures below, but to best appreciate the museum you should check out their web site (linked above).

Poor timing alert – their visiting exhibit at the moment is the works of JMW Turner, on loan from…The Tate Museum in London! Oh well.

Aphrodite, from the 2nd century
Monet, a favorite…

A formal dinner was planned for this evening (more on that later), so after the museum I dropped by a place called La Cocina to pick up some of their empanadas (meat and vegetable-filled pastries) to take away and snack on. Empanadas are very popular here, and La Cocina is a favorite amongst the locals.

Regarding dinner, I’m ashamed to say I made a reservation for a Tango performance, which includes a meal. I usually abhor this touristy stuff, but felt obligated to attend while in Buenos Aires. And I was assured by my friend German at the front desk that this was a very authentic, local show. It should be noted that the package also included a hotel pickup and return. Well, after I waited, and waited, and waited 45 minutes in the lobby for the ride (maybe they were delayed due to rain-related traffic issues?), German received a text stating that they were having vehicle problems and would not be able to pick me up. So we have rescheduled for tomorrow night, and I have been assured that I will receive “special attention” while in attendance. I’ll let you know how it goes!

I’ve been asked to comment on safety and security concerns in each of the places I visit. I think this is a great idea! I’ll lead off by saying that, as most of you know, I’m a pretty boring guy. So I naturally tend to avoid the situations where a lot of the problems occur – doing stupid stuff, at stupid times of the night, in stupid locations. Most of it is common sense. Also, prior to traveling I’ll review the US State Department reports on each of the countries I visit. They provide a good safety analysis. In addition, I’m not flashy and try to blend in when walking around (I’ve had three locals so far stop me on the street and ask me questions!). Finally, pickpockets are the scourge of tourist and densely populated areas. I’ve been lucky so far in that I haven’t been a victim. I think one reason is that I usually walk around with my trusty Lands’ End canvas messenger bag hooked over my shoulder. I keep everything in there and out of my pockets. When over the shoulder it can’t be snatched, and the canvas is too thick to cut.

I’ve taken a lot of abuse about this bag. You know who you are!

Regarding Buenos Aires specifically, I’ve felt completely safe here. I know there are a couple dodgy areas (that I read about and was told by the hotel staff), so I avoid them. Also, I see the foot patrol police out in force as I walk around the city. I’ll keep this feature going as I visit other areas on my trip. Thanks for the suggestion JKU!

JE 3

Buenos Aires

Monday, January 14 – Buenos Aires

Today was another beautiful day for walking – partly cloudy with a high in the upper 70s. I ventured back to explore more of the city centre and also checked out the newer and more exclusive area by the waterfront called Puerto Madero.

The pictures below are from Plaza de Mayo in the city center. The plaza takes its name from the events of May 1810, which resulted in the first successful revolution in South America’s fight for independence from Spain.

Casa Rosada – the executive mansion and office of the President of Argentina
The National Bank of Argentina
The Buenos Aires Cabildo – was used as the seat of the town council during the colonial era and today is a museum.

Here are a couple pictures from the city centre in the vicinity of Plaza de Mayo…

St. Ignatius Church
Former Buenos Aires Central Post Office, now a cultural centre (the grounds are undergoing renovation)

The Puerto Madero Waterfront is a short walk from Plaza de Mayo. The ship in the picture is the Presidente Sarmiento. It was launched in 1897 as a training vessel for the Argentine Naval Academy. It is now a museum.

I also went on a tour of Teatro Colón today. It is a beautiful venue. I took a bunch of pictures, but they really don’t do it justice. I’ll post one though – this is an upper reception area and is of note because it was used for a dinner gathering at the G20 Summit held here at the end of last year.

OK, it’s meal time! As you can tell from my previous posts, and you’ll see here, I like frequenting little, out-of-the-way cafes. As opposed to the places in the tourist areas, they offer a nice local feel, good food, and reasonable prices (and have I mentioned that I’m cheap?!?).

So today I ordered the chicken risotto, totally ignorant of the fact that its similarity to the chicken with rice dish that I had a couple days ago would be uncanny! Doh! Oh well, it was very good, and as you’ll see, I received a surprise at the end of the meal!

An unexpected bonus dessert of Pudin de Pan (bread pudding)!

JE 2

Buenos Aires

Sunday, January 13 – Buenos Aires

It was raining this morning and into the early afternoon, so it turned into a quiet day. That was probably a good thing because I have to remind myself that this is an 11 week journey – not every day needs to consist of 25k steps!

I spent the morning finalizing this journal and getting it published, doing some trip planning and reading (a book about Theodore Roosevelt’s harrowing excursion into the Amazon – appropriate!). I was originally scheduled to leave Buenos Aires on Wednesday but have decided to extend and will now depart Friday. (the beauty of not having an itinerary!) I like it here – the city, where I’m staying, and will take advantage of the great internet service to research and plan the next steps of the trip.

I did make it out for some roaming around this afternoon. It was fairly quiet on the streets, it being Sunday and many shops were closed. I ended up back at Teatro Colón and was going to take a tour, but they were booked up until late afternoon, so I bought a ticket for tomorrow. (After attempting to use my US credit card and being told by the ticket agent that my “PIN was blocked” I ended up forking over cash (ugh!). A subsequent call to the credit card company (via Skype using my apartment’s wifi) resulted in the representative informing me that the card was not blocked (huh?)) Point taken – backup cash and backup credit card.

Not a very photogenic day, but I did have another Armenian sighting. This looked like an interior design shop…

Finally, here’s a bonus pic from a couple days ago of The Recoleta Cultural Centre. It’s very close to the cemetery.

JE (Journal Entry) 1

Buenos Aires

Welcome to My South American Travel Journal

My goal is to update this as often as internet connections allow. Starting out the posts will likely be pretty simple. Hopefully my skills will improve over time and the site will look a little more professional! I’m also thinking you’re going to want mostly pictures and less of my writing. Which is fine with me!

Thursday, January 10 – arrived Buenos Aires

Arrived at Ezeiza airport around 9am. The immigration line was massive. Took approximately 90 minutes to clear! Reminded me of entering Nepal, or maybe Sydney (haha)! For a city of nearly 3 million people, the international airport is badly in need of expansion.

Opted to take the bus (similar to a van galder) into the city center, then transferred to minibus for transport to my hotel/apartment. Cost was 12USD versus 40 for a taxi (I’m cheap, plus I like the local immersion). Total transit time (from Chuck’s generous pickup on High Point Rd to the hotel drop off): 26 hours.

I’m staying in the Recoleta area of the city. It’s near the city centre, and a great place for walking. The architecture and streets have a very Parisian style. I ventured out for a while today, but was pretty tired. No pictures unfortunately. Sorry! Definitely tomorrow!

Friday, January 11 – Buenos Aires

Today was a beautiful day – clear skies, low humidity and high of 75 degrees. Perfect for walking!

Here’s a view from my apartment balcony this morning. (kind of nice there’s no high rise in the gap that is my view!)

I visited La Recoleta Cemetery today. An amazing place – containing the vaults of the notables in Argentinian history. Here are some pictures…

The crypt of Evita Peron – I was expecting something much more grandiose!
Adjacent to the cemetery is The Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar – completed in 1732.
I love the blue & white contrast!

There is a large Armenian population in Argentina/Buenos Aires – estimated at 100,000. I saw much evidence of that in my roaming the city today. I even came across an Armenian cafe, but unfortunately they close at 2pm on Friday. I’ll be back! (saw sarma on the menu posted in the window!)

Calle Armenia in the Palermo Soho section of Buenos Aires
A little park on Calle Armenia.
I’m thinking this is the name of the company, and NOT an Armenians-only parking garage!
Main meal today was a late lunch sitting outside at a little cafe on Calle Armenia. Grilled chicken salad with fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. Tasted great!

Saturday, January 12 – Buenos Aires

Today was another beautiful day for walking! It was a little warmer than yesterday with a high around 80 degrees. I concentrated on the City Centre area of Buenos Aires.

The National Palace of Justice and a column in memory of Juan Lavalle, a civil war hero.
Teatro Colón, the opera house, is considered one of the ten best opera houses in the world by National Geographic. Unfortunately there are no performances taking place during my stay, but I plan on taking a tour.
The Palace of the Argentine National Congress

I mentioned before how the city reminds me of Paris. Here are some examples of the architectural similarities I noticed…

Buenos Aires is a really beautiful, clean city – with an abundance of green space!
Wait! Another Paris sighting? No, this is actually one of the many copies of The Thinker that were made under Rodin’s supervision. This one is located near the Palace of the Argentine National Congress.
Main meal today was another late lunch. This time at a little cafe I happened upon near my apartment. Rice with chicken in tomato sauce, with fresh squeezed orange juice. Hit the spot!

Finally, I realized I hadn’t posted any pictures of my apartment, so here ya go…