JE 158

London

Thursday, January 16 – Harrow on the Hill

I’m heading into the Capital today to attend another West End play. Like Barcelona, I booked this a few weeks ago because of its popularity, and the fact that the production is ending in a few days.

(Booking shows at full price goes against my cheapness leaning, I know, but I do make exceptions! Typically I’ll look for same-day discounted tickets – see website reference further on in this Entry.)

Of course, I did some walking around in advance of the show. Here are a couple views…

The Victoria Memorial, with Buckingham Palace in the background.
A view of The Eye and Big Ben, through St. James’s Park…
…and another perspective.

The play takes place in the Noel Coward Theatre, located near Trafalgar Square.

Okay, enough with the suspense! The play I’m attending is Dr. Strangelove, starring Steve Coogan. It is based on the film directed by Stanley Kubrick.

The view from my seat – H6 in the Royal Circle.

Peter Sellers starred in the film; playing three different roles. Well, Coogan tops that by one! Pretty impressive, considering it is much easier to portray multiple characters in a movie than it is in live theater! They cleverly used a stand-in for him at times, with the substitute actor’s back to the audience. But still, there were many quick wardrobe changes for Steve! A fun show!

Travel Note: Here are a couple websites I use for West End (last minute) theater tickets and seating advice…

TKTS London

theatremonkey

I have a feeling I might have recommended these sites previously; if so, I apologize!

Friday, January 17 – Harrow on the Hill

My plan is to go off the beaten path today. Let’s do this!

I’m starting out in East London, visiting a museum that peaked my interest.

My journey takes me to the Bethnal Green tube station. At the exit to the station is this memorial, entitled Stairway To Heaven. It is in remembrance of a tragedy that occurred here in 1943. In fact, it was the worst London civilian disaster of World War II, yet no bombs were involved. 173 were killed – 84 women, 62 children and 27 men, and over 90 were injured. Basically, this involved a panicked crowd attempting to descend a dangerous stairway in the dark. Please use the link above to read more about this sad story.

(I was disappointed that the base of the memorial was enclosed by a fence. Not sure why; it didn’t look like there was any work taking place.)

This is the Young V&A Museum. That’s right, it’s a children’s museum. What can I say, I’ve pretty much never grown up (as I’m sure most of you who know me will attest!)!

There are some amazing things on display…

Cabinet Doll House (ca. 1830s)
The Tate Baby House (ca. 1760s)
Hinamatsuri Stage (ca. 1875-1900)
Marionette Theatre (ca. 1734)
Sunbeam Racer toy (ca. 1927)
Under the Wave off Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai (ca. 1831)

Wow! I was pleasantly surprised to see this iconic Japanese print on display in the “Where are you going to go?” area of the museum.

Pretty cool museum, am I right?

My next stop led me back towards Central London, neat The Tower of London.

St Dunstan in the East was a church that is located in an inconspicuous alleyway halfway between London Bridge and the Tower of London. It was largely destroyed in World War II, and the ruins are now a public garden.

The church was originally built around 1100.
A steeple was added in 1695–1701 to the designs of Sir Christopher Wren (architect of St. Paul’s Cathedral).
The church was severely damaged in the Blitz of 1941. However,Wren’s tower and steeple survived the bombs’ impact.

My next stop took me further west, near St. Paul’s Cathedral…

Postmans Park is a public garden that opened in 1880.

In 1900, the park became the location for George Frederic Watts’s Memorial to Heroic Self-Sacrifice, a dedication to ordinary people who died while saving the lives of others and who might otherwise be forgotten.

The wall of honor, housing ceramic memorial tablets.

My final destination is a short walk away…

This is the entrance to The London Charterhouse, a complex of buildings dating to the 14th century.

The history of the Charterhouse begins in 1348 with the Black Death. The site was a burial ground. In 1545 it was transformed into one of the great courtyard houses of Tudor London. Then in 1611 the property was converted to a school for the young and an almshouse for the old. The almshouse remains in occupation today, while the school was re-located in 1872 to Godalming, Surrey.

The Charterhouse Chapel.

Here are a couple exterior views of the grounds…

Sidenote: You may have noticed that I’m including more links in the Journal this year. I hope you find them useful!

JE 157

London

Sunday, January 12 – Harrow on the Hill

A frosty view outside my window this morning!

I braved the cold however and ventured out for a walk and to run some errands…

I like the name of this yogurt brand! You’d think I would have bought some? But no, too expensive! (I am cheap, after all!)
Fuel price check! This works out to $6.32/gallon (compared to £1.409/liter – $6.81/gallon last year)

Tuesday, January 14 – Harrow on the Hill

A beautiful day is forecast, with high temperatures in the upper 40s. I think a walking tour is in order!

For reference, I’ll be utilizing this book, generously on loan to me from Tony.

My area of focus is Hampstead Heath, to the north of the city. The walk starts at the Archway tube station in Highgate.

This horror film Gothic building, and the surrounding enclave, dates to 1865. It was built for the estate workers of a Baroness.
Unfortunately the gate access to the courtyard was locked.
The enclave is named Holly Village. I like it!
Lauderdale House (ca. 17th century), located in Waterlow Park.

The Gatehouse pub in old Highgate village. The Bishop of London once owned a park here, and the pub stands on the site of one of the three gates that led into the park.

St Michael’s Church, Highgate (ca. 1830s). It is the highest elevation church in London.

I am now entering Hampstead Heath, a park covering 790 acres. (for comparison, Central Park in New York City is similar in size at 843 acres)

A view from the Heath back to Highgate. That’s St. Micheal’s on the right. On the left is Witanhurst. At over 90,000 square feet, it is the second largest private residence in London, after Buckingham Palace.

Approaching Kenwood House

Kenwood House (ca. 17th century) was a private residence as late as 1927; it is now a public museum.

At most other times of the year, these grounds would be teeming with visitors.
I like this cute walkway adjacent to the house!
The front entrance to the house (museum)

For those of you that are fans of the film Notting Hill, these photos may look familiar. For a refresher, take a look at this clip of the movie within a movie.

It was a perfect day to visit the museum; barely any visitors. Even the curators were commenting on how quiet it was! And the best part? It was free!

The interior is beautiful.
The museum also contains a wonderful art collection. I like this early Turner, Coast Scene with Fishermen (ca. 1803).
Portrait of Daisy Leiter by John Singer Sargent (ca. 1898). Daisy was an American heiress who married into British aristocracy.
Looking out on the Heath from Kenwood House
A view of Central London from Parliament Hill. That’s The Shard in the middle, with St. Paul’s Cathedral just below it.

I’m now departing the Heath and heading into the village of Hampstead…

This is part of Church Row in Hampstead. It dates to the early 1700s, not long after William of Orange became king – hence the Dutch style architecture.
Another Holly sighting!
Admiral’s House (ca. 1700)
Jack Straw’s Castle pub is located on the highest point in London at 440 feet above sea level.
Making my way to the Hampstead tube station…

This was a fun day! A lot of walking (29k steps), and a little muddy on the Heath! (I was provided with disposable shoe covers when I toured Kenwood House)

JE 156

London

Thursday, January 9 – Harrow on the Hill

Only one night of jeg-lag-interuppted sleep? Maybe (hopefully!)? I got in a full 8 hours last night, straight through. Whoo hoo! And I ended up spending another lazy two hours doing some reading before I was finally motivated to get up and do something! Come on, I’m on vacation (sort of). Give me a break!

I attended a Harrow School event this evening with Mary & Tony. It was a conversation with Sir Gregory Doran in The Ryan Theatre. Sir Gregory is the former artistic director of the Royal Shakespeare Company, amongst his many other accomplishments.

The skull is a nice touch!

It was a fun event. Sir Gregory had interesting stories to tell, and there were some good audience questions, mainly from Harrow School students.

Subsequent to the talk, Sir Gregory was available for a signing of his book, and Mary ended up buying one as a gift.

Following the event, we made our way back to Byron House and sat down to a wonderful meal prepared by Mary.

Note the painting of Byron House in the background…

Thank you so much Mary & Tony for a most enjoyable evening!

Friday, January 10 – Harrow on the Hill

I’m back into the city today, mainly to attend a play this evening.

I made my way in early so that I could partake in a favorite activity – just walking around this picturesque city (even on a cloudy winter day!). I made a loop from Green Park into Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, then into Kensington and back to Trafalgar Square.

It was a little chilly, so I wore my Motion W stocking cap on the walk. Well, near Hyde Park Corner I got an “On Wisconsin” shout out! That was pretty cool. Badgers are everywhere!

Located in an obscure alley in Kensington is this classic car dealer. I like stopping by when I’m around to see what’s on display.

I also like checking out the Burlington Arcade, off of Piccadilly, to take a look at what’s on offer – mainly at the vintage watch shops. Classic cars and vintage watches. I can dream, right?!?

And bonus! The Christmas decorations were still up!

The play I’m attending didn’t begin until 8pm, and the theatre happens to be located near Trafalgar Square. That worked out nicely, because The National Portrait Gallery just happens to be open late on Friday nights. The perfect spot to roam while I warm up a bit!

And wow! My favorite piece in their collection is back on display! During my last two visits to London (last year and in 2020) it was in storage. This is a large piece, as you may be able to ascertain based on the size of the placard on the left: 64 in. x 61 in. Do you know who this is?

I think one of the reasons I like this piece is because of the title. Funny!

Okay, I’m off to the show!

I’m attending the play Barcelona at The Duke of York’s Theatre.

I would say the main reason I chose this play was because it is the stage debut of Lily Collins. Folks of my generation will probably know her best as the daughter of Phil Collins. While most everyone else will recognize her from Emily in Paris.

The ceiling of the theatre.
The entire one act play takes place in this Barcelona apartment.
The view from my seat – Royal Circle E13

The play takes place in a Barcelona apartment, and starts out as a possible one night stand between a Spaniard from Madrid and a tourist from the United States. It turns into much more though, as layers are revealed. It ran about 90 minutes with no intermission. I liked it! And was lucky to book a ticket, because the production ends tomorrow!

Travel Note: Another great night of sleep!

Saturday, January 11 – Harrow on the Hill

A couple items of financial note today…

I’m paying my rent in cash. That entails a few ATM withdrawals (due to daily limits, etc.). The notes I received were a mix of 20s and 10s. Of those about 5% were of this type…

Kait tipped me off last spring when the King Charles notes were introduced. However, here we are several months later and only a few are in circulation. Interesting…

And speaking of interesting, how about this?

A letter coincidentally arrived for me in the mail this week! I haven’t lived here since 2010, and I emptied my Barclays bank account in 2014. At least I think I did; maybe I should check! (watch this space) The letter is a request for me to fill out a tax residency form. Crazy!

JE 155

London

Monday, January 6 & Tuesday January 7 – transit from Madison to London

Hello again everyone. Welcome back! Thank you for your continued interest in my winter travels.

I’ve returned to London, with a similar plan as last year – enjoy the city while using it as a base to visit other places in the region. A big thanks to Mary & Tony for welcoming me back to the very familiar Byron House. I’m thrilled to once again call Harrow on the Hill my home (for a few weeks)!

I’m planning on making a slight adjustment to the Journal Entries this year. I feel like I got too much into the minutia of my daily activities previously; nobody cares if I went for a walk or to the grocery store (boring!). So this year I may not have an Entry for every day of the week. I’ll only do a post if I see or do something of interest (hopefully that will be almost daily!). This will mainly apply solely to my time in London; I foresee being busy on a daily basis during my travels away from the Capital. And I hope to avoid posting pictures that are similar or identical to those from my time here last year. No promises though! I do have some favorite locations!

My itinerary from Madison to London was identical to last year:

  • 6am departure from Madison to Newark
  • Loooonnnggg layover in Newark
  • Early evening departure to Heathrow, with a 6:45am arrival

Like last year, I used miles to upgrade to Business Class for the trip. It was especially nice because I had the use of the BC lounge in Newark during the layover. And there is also a little-known arrivals lounge at Heathrow that I also took advantage of! I utilized the shower facilities at both locations!

Dinner on the flight – not bad!

I had a nice nighttime (early morning) view of the Thames as we approached Heathrow. I was lucky – sitting in a window seat on the correct side of the plane. Lit up were the Tower Bridge, St. Paul’s, the Eye, and Big Ben. I know, a photo (or two) would be nice, but I was half asleep and just enjoyed the view (maybe it was all a dream?).

After spending some time in the arrivals lounge, I was on the SL9 bus for the ride to South Harrow. It had snowed a little before I boarded the bus, but stopped (and mostly melted) by the time I made the walk up to the Hill. It was wonderful to see Mary and Tony again, and we caught up over some tea and cake. Thank you Mary!

I had an Uber pickup in Madison at 4am on Monday, and coincidentally arrived at the doorstep of Byron House at 10am on Tuesday (4am in Madison). So, a 24 hour trip! Of course, only about 9 hours of that was actual flying time!

Wednesday, January 8 – Harrow on the Hill

I tried to stay up as late as possible last night, but failed miserably, falling asleep around 7:30pm. And then woke up around midnight. Ugh! Was back to sleep around 2:30am though, and made it all the way to 10am. Not terrible, I guess. Hopefully tonight will be better!

It was really tempting to just lay around the flat all day, but I eventually found the motivation to make a trip into the city. I mainly just walked amongst my favorite places around the parks and the Thames (did 20k steps for the day). I ended up in Trafalgar Square, with a visit to the National Gallery. While there I took advantage of their daily one hour tours, where a curator provides background on 4 different works in the collection. One of my favorite activities (and it’s free; another favorite!).

A rapt audience!
The artwork of interest – An Old Man Holding a Pilgrim-Bottle by Pietro Bellotti (ca. 1650s)