JE 105

Dominica

Monday, February 27 – Dominica

I’m feeling a little restless this morning. I’ve been told there’s a picturesque area south of here that’s within walking distance called Pagua Bay, with a landmark, Pagua Rock.

The walk down to Pagua Bay took about 30 minutes. I need to emphasize the down part though, because it is very steep, and I sadly need to go back up! My trek will take me around the bay to the area seen ahead.
This is looking north from the bay.
Crossing a little river that feeds into the Atlantic Ocean.
Making my way up the other side of the bay.
My walking path, shared with vehicles.
Further up the road.
Pagua Rock. I’m not sure if there is a way to hike to that spot, and I decided not to investigate further!
Continuing along the road. Beautiful clear water!
Now on my way back. Another view from the bay.
With this picture I was trying to convey how steep the road is. Not sure I succeeded though!
That’s impressive!
The green house on the left is where I’m staying.

The hike took a total of about 3 1/2 hours. I wasn’t on a very fast pace though; stopping for pictures and to take in the sights. And I needed a couple rest breaks on the way back up. Sad!

I spent the rest of the day working on a journal entry and going for a swim at Sand Bay.

Tuesday, February 28 – Dominica

I’m traveling to the northwest part of the island today to explore the town of Portsmouth. My mode of transport?

Back on the (mini) bus!

The bus stop was about a 5 minute walk from my apartment. I got there around 8:05am, the bus arrived at 8:15, and we departed at 8:25. The ride to Portsmouth was very scenic, with about 75% of it along the coast. The trip took about 1 hour. The cost? Three USD.

Portsmouth is the second largest town in Dominica, behind Roseau. It was initially chosen as the capital of Dominica, but only served in that capacity in 1760. After malaria broke out there the same year, the capital was moved to Roseau, where it remains.

The Portsmouth waterfront, part of Prince Rupert Bay. This west side of the island is on the Caribbean Sea. The east side, where I’m staying, is on the Atlantic Ocean.
Looking north towards Cabrits National Park (my ultimate destination).
Continuing north. This is Purple Turtle Beach.

Cabrits National Park is an extinct volcano that was once its own island, separate from mainland Dominica. The park protects tropical forest, coral reefs and wetlands. It contains hiking trails and an English garrison, Fort Shirley. The park occupies 1,300 acres and was established in 1986.

Fort Shirley was formerly a military outpost; the British began building it in 1765 as a garrison to defend north Dominica. The fort was extended by the French during their occupation from 1778 to 1784. It was abandoned in 1854. After suffering for years, restoration began in 1982.

The entry fee for the park was 5 USD for the day or 12 USD for a one-week pass, which could be used at other tourist sites on the island. I chose the latter because I have an island drive around planned for tomorrow.

Looking south across Prince Rupert Bay.
As mentioned above, the park also has a few hiking opportunities. I chose this out-and-back trail that offered a view of Douglas Bay to the north.
Douglas Bay, in which the southern area is part of the Park’s Marine Reserve. The round trip duration of the hike was 45 minutes.
View of Prince Rupert Bay on my way back to Portsmouth.
Nice looking home situated across the street from the waterfront.
Stopped at this roti shop for some lunch.

In the shop I ended up sitting with a couple that were originally from Virginia. They now live fulltime on their 76-foot catamaran. Wow! We had a nice conversation. In fact, it was so nice that I forgot to take a picture of my roti. Sorry! (Although, I guess you already know what they look like!) The cost of the vegetarian roti (would have chosen fish if they had it) and a drink was 7 USD.

While I was in town I stopped at the bank to get some Euros for my upcoming Guadeloupe visit, and to acquire additional Eastern Caribbean Dollars (which will also be needed for my future stops in Antigua and St. Kitts).

I didn’t have to wait at all for a return bus, as one was departing just as I arrived at the stop. Nice! Another hour ride back dropped me near the apartment around 4pm. A good day!

Wednesday, March 1 – Dominica

My Airbnb host, Phillip, offered to take me around to some sights on the island today (for a fee, of course). Thank you!

His plan was to travel south and visit some places in the area of Morne Trois Pitons National Park. On the way though is Jacko Falls. We were going to stop there first. However, as we approached we noticed three tour buses parked there along the road. Oh oh. That means there is a cruise ship in the port. And that means the tourist sights will be busy today. (we later learned that there were TWO ships at the dock!). So Phillip bypassed Jaco and continued south to a more remote location, which will hopefully be less crowded.

Freshwater Lake is the largest of Dominica’s four lakes. It is located at just over 2,500 ft above sea level and was formed by a volcanic grater.

And no cruise ship tour buses in sight!
It was nice and cool up at this elevation.
A nice view on our drive out; looking down the Roseau Valley to the Caribbean Sea.
We made a short stop here to get something to drink.
Our next stop, Titou Gorge, is mainly know as a swimming spot. We only stayed briefly though.
It’s in a pretty location.
Another great view of the valley on our drive out of the gorge.
Phillip had concerns about this next stop, as it’s one of the most popular attractions on the island, where cruise passengers tend to flock. But we got lucky! Not crowded, and we were able to witness an interesting activity (continue reading…).

Trafalgar Falls is the only twin waterfall on the island. They are named Mother and Father Falls.

Father Falls, 125 foot drop.
Mother Falls, 75 foot drop.
While we were visiting, there happened to be some people attempting to rappel Father Falls. Awesome!
It may be hard to see – one of the rappellers is half way down the falls, and another is standing at the bottom. Cool stuff!
Nice scenery on the path to the falls.
I saw this sign on our walk out, and I’m thinking “Why would anyone want to photograph an elderly nudist??”

Our path back north brought us through the capital city of Roseau, and Phillip took us to one of his favorite places for takeaway meals.

I was taking this picture on our way out, after purchasing our food. Well, I guess it was the owner who saw me (who wasn’t around the counter when I bought the meal), and she starting giving me a hard time about needing to buy something if I was going to take photos. We quickly straightened it out and all was forgiven. Kind of funny. (It undoubtedly helped that Phillip was there alongside me!)

We’re heading back north now, and our final stop will a return visit to Jacko Falls. Hopefully the cruise passengers are nowhere to be seen…

No such luck!
It wasn’t too terrible though. Most of the people had already visited the falls, and were waiting here by the bar.
A pretty spot!

Phillip did a lot of driving today. And I was able to take in the beautiful scenery of the island, which was great. With left around 9:45am and returned around 5:00pm. For that Phillip charged me 120 USD, which I thought was more than reasonable, considering what I’ve paid for similar services on the other islands.

And now it’s time to enjoy the takeaway dinner…

Fish (tuna), rice, beans, vegetables and plantain. 9 USD. Dantie’s is a better deal, but this is not bad. And it tasted great!

6 thoughts on “JE 105

  1. Beautiful waterfalls! And I agree with Kait, your Airbnb hosts seem to be so helpful. Pretty cool that you met people from Virginia too!

  2. Beautiful pictures, UT! It seems like you’ve been lucky with some helpful airbnb hosts throughout the trip

    1. Thanks Kait! You’re right, I’ve enjoyed the airbnb experience. I’ve met some nice people and they’re a good value.

  3. Tim, thanks for sharing the photos. I enjoyed the view of the parks in Dominica. I feel like I am visiting these places.

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