JE 106

Dominica to Guadeloupe

Thursday, March 2 – Dominica

Nothing very exciting today. Sorry!

I did some laundry, prepped for my Guadeloupe trip, worked on a journal entry, and went for a swim. Lacking excitement, but a relaxing day!

Dominica Information

  • Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar
  • Language: English
  • Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the left
  • Weather: Highs in the low 80s, lows in the low 70s, moderate humidity (there’s a nice breeze on the Atlantic coast, where I stayed)
  • Covid Entry Requirements: None
  • Mask Wearing: Minimal
  • Electrical Outlets: U.K. Style
  • Drinkable Tap Water?: Yes
  • Time Zone: One hour ahead of U.S. Eastern

Friday, March 3 – transit from Dominica to Guadeloupe

Sunrise from my patio this morning

I’m taking the ferry this morning to Guadeloupe. That means another one hour, 80 USD taxi ride back south to the ferry terminal. Brother! I did not plan this well! The scheduled departure time is 11:30am, so I left around 8:30am. With traffic delays in Roseau (THREE cruise ships in port), I arrived at the terminal around 10am. Still plenty of time.

You may remember that my ferry trip from St. Lucia to Dominica arrived in the Dominica harbor on time, but then encountered a 90 minute delay while waiting for another ferry to depart from the dock. Well, I now know what caused the delay – the Dominica boarding process is an abomination! There is pushing and shoving, with people cutting in line. There were three stops along the queue: pay the departure tax (32 USD); immigration check; and security. The first two weren’t terrible, but security is a disaster. Passengers are only allowed into a room one at a time, where their bags are screened and they walk through the metal detector. This took forever! (And actually wasn’t very thorough) I’m sure you’ve figured out by now that because of this fiasco we were late in departing, coincidentally by 90 minutes. I’m surprised the ferry company puts up with this. It seems like a major disruption to their operations. On the other hand, it could just be the “island” mentality. (I am attempting to go with the flow!)

Travel Note: My ferry ticket is for a round trip back to Dominica, so there was no need for the ticket agent to ask me about onward or return travel. The round trip ticket cost 130 USD. And the non-stop ferry ride took 2 hours and 15 minutes.

Another Travel Note: The ferry was the same type that I traveled on from St. Lucia, and very crowded. I ended up sitting in the middle section of the upper level. Because of all of this, I didn’t take any pictures during the trip.

Meanwhile, my Airbnb host (Xavier) in Guadeloupe had offered to pick me up at the ferry terminal because he wasn’t sure what the taxi availability would be (also, his place is kind of tricky to find). However, with our delayed departure he was no longer available for the pickup. So he was scrambling to arrange a taxi. Because of this, I needed to be online and in contact with him during the ferry transit, so thus incurred my first AT&T roaming charge of the trip (10 USD for the day – oh no!!).

I should mention that Guadeloupe is a territory of France; therefore the language is French (duh!). And Xavier does not speak English. Fortunately the messaging function within the Airbnb website automatically does the translating. We were using this to communicate.

Xavier eventually found me a driver, sent me his phone number, and asked me to text him with my details. Great! Thanks! But wait, I’m guessing he doesn’t speak English, right? How’s this going to work? I ended up typing out my text in English and used Google Translate to convert it to French. I then copied the French text into the massaging app and hit send. Good to go! Not so fast. The driver never responded. Ugh!

I assumed he was no longer available and I would just need to figure things out upon arrival. And I must say that the arrival process in Guadeloupe was very efficient, both immigration and baggage claim. A refreshing improvement over Dominica. (And my St. Lucia departure was efficient too, as well as the stopover in Martinique.) I checked my phone as I cleared immigration and noticed that I had a message from Xavier: “Your taxi driver (Max) is waiting for you outside.” Wow! That’s a nice surprise. Thank you!

The ferry terminal is in Pointe-a-Pitre and I’m staying in nearby Le Gosier; the drive would normally take about 20 minutes, but Max spent time on the phone with Xavier trying to find the airbnb, which added about 10 minutes to the trip. The cost of the ride was 35 USD. Happy to pay it after today’s adventure!

My apartment is on the upper level in the back (enter from the right side of the building).
A little patio area
6 nights @ 71 USD/night

I was pretty much drained after today’s activities. I spent the rest of the day in the apartment; didn’t even go out for food.

Saturday, March 4 – Guadeloupe

I’m feeling better this morning and ready to head out and explore the area!

This small beach is called Anse Tabarin
I like this seawater pool!
This small island is Ilet du Gosier. There is a boat service that offers rides there for 5 EUR.
Datcha Beach.
Datcha Beach is a 10 minute walk from my apartment. I can see spending a fair amount of time here, especially during the week, when it should be less crowded.

After strolling around the area for a few hours I finished up with a grocery run and then back to the apartment.

Sunday, March 5 – Guadeloupe

I’m motivated to do some serious walking today. I’m going to head west towards Pointe-a-Pitre, with plans to check out the coastline and visit a fort and an aquarium. Let’s go!

Always a good sign when there’s a line out the door. I think I’ll stop here for breakfast!
Maxi Pain Chocolate (2.50 USD). Delicious!
Silver Caye Beach (plage de la caye d’argent)
Looking across to the island Ilet a Cochons
A great location for a public tennis court!
This is called Beach at the Bottom of the Fort (plage de bas du fort). A popular place on a Sunday!
Looking back across the beach from the opposite side (grounds of the Hotel Fleur d’Epee)
Little inlet near the beach.
My next stop is Fort Fleur d’Epee.
Construction of the Fort began in 1759 by the English. However, the 1763 Treaty of Paris returned Guadeloupe to the French, who then completed the work.
Admission is free (my favorite word!)
Amazing views from the Fort! I’m going to check out that beach on my way back to Le Gosier.
Next on my route is the Aquarium.
14 USD entry fee
A nice visit!
As promised, I’m now approaching the beach that I viewed from the Fort.
Grand Baie Beach
Looking back at the Fort from the beach.

Travel Note: This is probably going to sound pretentious (or stupid!), but I’m getting a little bored with the waterfalls, greenery (rain forests), and 100+ USD drive-arounds to touristy spots (that I typically avoid). What I did today was the kind of activity I enjoy – exploring an area on foot. And as opposed to the the islands I’ve recently visited, this part of Guadeloupe is favorable for walking – with a good pedestrian infrastructure, and most importantly, it’s relatively flat! Today reminds me of my time in Honolulu – investigating the nooks and crannies of that city.

I know I was just talking up the pedestrian-friendly aspect of Guadeloupe. But then they go and allow parking on the sidewalks! Ugh!

Today was a good day! I ended putting in the most steps since my excursions on Barbados. More of the same is planned for the next few days (along with some swimming!).

4 thoughts on “JE 106

  1. Guadeloupe looks beautiful, but that travel day sounded rough. Hope you are able to enjoy the rest of your time there!

  2. The beaches are beautiful! I’m glad you were able to do some exploring the way you like to! Sounds like some hectic travel though – I’m glad it all worked out!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *