JE 146

Tuesday, April 2 – transit from London to Bratislava, Slovakia

I’m back to Heathrow on the SL9 this morning. Fortunately my flight doesn’t depart until 10am, so I don’t have to leave the flat super early. I’m flying into Vienna and then taking the short bus or train ride from the airport across the border into Slovakia and the city of Bratislava. The non-stop flight on Austrian Airlines took 2 hours, and the round trip airfare was $290.

Travel Note: I’ve talked previously about the minimal legroom on the British Airways A320s. Well the Austrian Airlines A320s on this trip were much more comfortable. Just sayin’, in case you ever have a choice between the two!

I had another quick transition through immigration in Vienna. The only question I was asked was whether or not I was staying in the city. When I told the officer that I was going on to Bratislava, she waived me through. I tried to explain that I was coming back to Vienna later in the week, but there was no interest.

Upon arrival at the Vienna airport I checked in at the Information Desk to find out the best way to get to Bratislava. They recommended taking the bus, showing me the schedule and stating that I could pay the driver. The next bus was due in about 20 minutes, so I went outside to the designated platform and waited for its arrival. Well, when I went to buy a ticket from the driver, he told me that the bus was fully booked. Doh! Luckily the wait for the next bus was only an hour. And after learning my lesson (I’m quick!), I immediately went online and booked a ticket for the next departure.

With time to kill, I went back into the terminal to roam around a bit. A short time later there was a little drama…

A portion of the arrivals area was cordoned off and the exits were closed due to (maybe you can spot it)…

After the police analyzed the bag using a remote-controlled device, followed by a physical inspection, the terminal was reopened in about 20 minutes. That still provided me plenty of time to exit the terminal and catch my bus. Whew! (Well done, Vienna Airport Police)

The bus ride in a comfortable coach to the Bratislava Central Bus Station took one hour and cost €12 ($13). Of note is the fact that there was no immigration check at the border crossing between Austria and Slovakia. This is due to both countries being part of the Schengen Agreement – an area encompassing 29 European countries that have eliminated controls at their common borders.

After arrival at the bus station, the short walk to my hotel took 20 minutes.

Marrol’s Boutique Hotel (my room was on the 4th floor, third window from the left)

I was kind of tired from the trip, but did get out for a little bit to stroll the area around the hotel.

The Euro is the currency in both Slovakia and Austria.

Wednesday, April 3 and Thursday, April 4 – Bratislava

I’m combining both Wednesday and Thursday into one entry because I basically did the same thing on both days; you guessed it – walked around! And Bratislava is a great place for walking. The city is very compact, and the streets are marked exceptionally well (not always the case). I was planning on taking the short drive out of the city on Thursday to visit Devin Castle, however, when I checked their website on Thursday morning it stated that they were closed for the day (normally open on Thursdays). Anyway, I’m glad I checked and didn’t waste my time going there! (And thanks Devin Castle for updating your website!)

(Devin Castle originated in the 9th century and was ultimately left in ruins during the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1961.)

This 17th century palace, a former home of the archbishop, now houses government offices.

Slovak Radio Building (c. 1983). Pretty cool!

I like this street name! (and an example of Bratislava’s well-placed street signs)

Approaching Slavín Memorial Monument and Military Cemetery

Slavín is the burial ground of Soviet Army soldiers who fell during World War II while taking over the city from the occupying Germans. It is situated on a hill overlooking Bratislava amidst villas and embassy residences. The monument was inaugurated in 1960 on the occasion of the 15th anniversary of the liberation of the city.

View of Bratislava Castle from Slavin (I guess the tree was cut back to improve the view?)

An alleyway approaching Bratislava Castle.

Construction of the Castle began in the 9th century and continued on in phases over the next several hundred years.

The Castle was eventually abandoned in the early 19th century and fell into disrepair. However, in the 1950s the decision was made to restore it.

View from Bratislava Castle of Most SNP (“Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising”) crossing the Danube River. The flying saucer-shaped structure atop the bridge is an observation deck and restaurant.

Another view of the city from Bratislava Castle. In the foreground is St. Martin’s Cathedral.

View of Bratislava City Walls, St. Martin’s Cathedral, and Most SNP.

The Bratislava City Walls date to the 13th century.

View into the Old Town from the City Walls. That is Michael’s Gate rising in the background.

Michael’s Gate is the only city gate of the medieval fortifications that has been preserved, and is one of the oldest buildings in Bratislava. Built around 1300, its present design is the result of baroque reconstruction in 1758.

Daytime view of the Slovak National Theatre

Bratislava Old Town Hall. The tower dates to 1370.

The Church of St. Elizabeth, commonly known as the Blue Church (c. 1913)

View of Most SNP, Bratislava Castle, and St. Martin’s Cathedral from Stary Most (Old Bridge).

I did some exploring around the Danube on Thursday. There’s a nice path along the river, and I liked this apartment complex.

I’m now on the other side of the Danube. This is Janko Kráľ Park. (with Most SNP in the background)

View of Most SNP from the park (I think I’m obsessed with this bridge!)

Time to mail Oliver a postcard! This post office is located in a rather interesting mall.

Sidenote: I’m a little concerned as to whether or not this postcard is going to make it to Virginia! The clerk I gave the postcard to took my money, but did not apply a stamp to the card (she did write something on the card though where the stamp would normally be placed), and subsequently dropped the card into something beneath her desk (a trash can?). Hopefully I’m just overreacting! I’ll let you know!

I’m attending the opera tonight (Thursday), here at The New Building of the Slovak National Theatre. When I booked the performance I thought it was going to be held at the original Theatre Building (night/day photos shown earlier in this post). However, that venue is closed while awaiting a restoration.

View from the theatre grounds looking back to the Old Town and Bratislava Castle.

Looking out from the interior of the theatre.

View from my seat in row 3 of the balcony (cost of ticket: €28).

It was an enjoyable performance! And like in Sofia, English subtitles were provided (bonus!). I have to admit though that I was a little disappointed in the venue. The interior just seemed a little sterile. And it’s not that I’m adverse to modern design. Not at all. As a comparison, I used the Overture Center and Hamel Music Center in Madison, both relatively new facilities that I’m familiar with. Both, in my opinion, have much more pleasing designs (inside and out). But I’m pretty sure nobody in Bratislava cares what I think!

Sidenote: I may be giving you the impression that I’m a huge opera fan. That’s not the case. I just enjoy checking out different venues, and attending a performance meets that objective (when the price is right!). The symphony would work equally well. But that form of entertainment is more accessible than the opera is to me in Madison, so I’m trying to take advantage of the opportunity traveling to these locations offers me. Plus, I like seeing the sets and costumes of the opera!

Slovakia/Bratislava Notes

The population of Bratislava is around 450,000
Slovak is the local language, but I had no problem speaking English with everyone I encountered in Bratislava
Slovakia (and Austria) is one hour ahead of London
There are not nearly as many smokers in Bratislava, compared to the other eastern European cities I visited this winter. A good thing!
My interaction with the locals was good; generally very friendly

Friday, April 5 – transit from Bratislava to Vienna

I’m back on the bus to Vienna today. The departure isn’t until noon, so I enjoyed a leisurely morning. And yes, I booked my bus ticket two days ago to make sure I had a reserved seat! (and it’s a good thing I did, the bus was filled to the max!)

Here are a couple photos from the Bratislava Central Bus Station…

The bus company has learned some tricks from the airlines and charges extra for selecting your own seat. I balked and ended up in the middle seat of the back row (5 across). I was a little bit squished, but the nice part was that the aisle was in front of me, so I had plenty of legroom!

The route of this bus took us back to the airport, but I stayed onboard until it reached its final destination – Wien Hauptbahnhof (Vienna Central Station). The ride took 90 minutes and cost €10. It’s interesting though, unlike the uninterrupted border crossing into Slovakia a few days ago, today the bus was stopped at the Austrian border for a check by immigration officers. It went really quickly though, and we were on our way. Worth noting: the immigration officers spoke only one language to the passengers – English (not Slovak, not German).

It was a nice day, and I was a little early for check-in, so I decided to walk from the station to my hotel. That took about an hour, but I wasn’t moving very fast, taking in the sights as I went along.

…with claims to being the oldest hotel in Vienna.

Check out the length of this hallway! And my room was at the very end! (I kind of liked that actually; less traffic going by my door!)

This room is a little smaller than the one I had in Bratislava! $120/nt, incl breakfast.

Like my first night in Bratislava, I went out for a little while to take in the sights.

Sidenote: I’ve been to Vienna previously. I had to go back and check my log to figure out when. It was in the fall of 2007, and I combined it with a trip to Switzerland and Prague.

St. Michael’s Wing of Hofburg Palace (c. 1893)

I guess I was a little surprised by how crowded is was (around the tourist areas) in Vienna. I suppose it was because I’ve been used to visiting the less popular Balkan countries this winter. Vienna is obviously a popular tourist destination, and this being the week after Easter, it’s the time of year when travel begins to pick up in this region.

Saturday, April 6 – Vienna

Looks a little too healthy, doesn’t it? Don’t worry, it got a messier! Another hotel with a very good breakfast.

While I was waiting for the bus at the Vienna airport a few days ago I picked up a booklet from the tourist office that featured various self-guided walking tours. The weather is beautiful; that seems like the perfect activity for me today. And based on the crowds I saw last night, I think I’m going to choose routes that are kind of off the beaten path.

The first tour I’ve chosen takes me on the Ringstrasse – a circular grand boulevard that serves as a ring road around the historic Innere Stadt district.

The back face of The Neue Burg, adjacent to Burggarten (more information below)

The Neue Burg Wing of Hofburg Palace – it forms an extended wing from the main Palace area and lines one side of Heldenplatz Square. It was completed in the early 20th century.

View of Heldenplatz Square (the Leopoldine Wing of Hofburg Palace is in the background)

Volksgarten. That is City Hall in the background.

It was a little crowded around City Hall! (there was a festival taking place this weekend)

A less crowded view of City Hall (c. 1883)

Votive Church (c. 1879). It’s too bad they allow tour buses to park in front of the church.

The Anker Clock – it forms a bridge between the two parts of the Anker Insurance Company’s building. In the course of 12 hours, twelve historical figures, or pairs of figures, move across the bridge. I was there between 1 and 2; the figure on display is the Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius, who allegedly died in Vienna in the year 180.

After taking a little break back at the hotel, my next walking tour covered an area where the 1873 World’s Fair was held.

*Fuel Price Check*: €1.68/liter equals $6.89/gallon

The walking tour took me through Wurstelprater Amusement Park (it opened in 1766!). Very busy on this beautiful Saturday evening!

Not sure I would want to go on that ride!

Vienna University of Economics and Business.

This is an area called Viertel Zwei (Quarter Two). More interesting architecture.

I’m now walking along the Donaukanal on my way back to the hotel. A lot of folks are out enjoying the sunset!

Travel Note: The high temperature here today was 78 degrees. I’m pretty sure that’s the warmest it’s been for me so far on this escape. A little different than my previous winter trips! (but I’m not complaining!)

Sunday, April 7 – transit from Vienna to London

My flight back to London isn’t until early afternoon; I’m a man of leisure this morning!

My transfer to the airport will be by train. The station was a 15 minute walk from the hotel, and trip to the airport took 30 minutes. The cost: €4.40. (avoiding taxis is the best!)

Waiting for the train at Praterstern Station

And of course I took the SL9 back to the flat from Heathrow (not a very crowded bus on a Sunday afternoon!).

This was a fun trip! And the weather once again cooperated. Thank you Mother Nature!

Walking Summary

I did a LOT of walking on this trip, as I’m sure you know I like to do. Here are my daily step counts:

Tuesday: 18k (travel day)
Wednesday: 30k
Thursday: 27k
Friday: 22k (travel day)
Saturday: 30k
Sunday: 11k (travel day)

JE 146

JE 146

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