JE 152

London

Friday, April 19 – transit from Tirana to London

My flight is at 10:30 this morning. Due to the rush hour factor, and Tirana’s ugly traffic, the hotel staff recommended that I leave for the airport at 7:30. There is a shuttle bus option that departs from a point near to the hotel at a cost of 400 lek, but its schedule doesn’t accommodate my itinerary very well. So I ended up taking a taxi at a cost of 3,000 lek ($30). It killed me! But I survived. The ride took 40 minutes.

I’m flying Ryanair. I usually don’t go with a discount carrier; in this case though the price was irresistible. Including the extra fees I paid for an exit row seat and overhead bin space, the total cost for the one way flight was $61. The only drawback is that the flight landed at London Stansted Airport, which is north of the city and required a train ride into the capital.

The Tirana airport is well organized. I especially liked the automated readers in the departure hall for U.S. passport holders (plus a few other countries that issue biometric passports). I thereby avoided the queue for the manual passport check, which was pretty long!

Tirana Airport departure area

Travel Note: Like the Italians, the Albanians seem to have mastered the art of cutting in line. Not quite on the level of the Italians, but close. And it’s annoying!

The nonstop flight lasted 3 hours, and the 737 was full. (In hindsight, maybe it wasn’t such a good idea to be sitting in the exit row of a Boeing airplane!) The train from Stansted to Liverpool Street station took 50 minutes and cost £23. From there, I grabbed the Metropolitan Line back to Harrow on the Hill.

This evening I attended a talk at the Harrow School commemorating the 200th anniversary of the poet Lord Byron’s death. Byron was a student at the school in the early 19th century, and arguably one of their most famous alums.

Prior to the talk though, Mary and Tony invited a few people in for a proper English Tea, with delicious sandwiches, scones, and cupcakes. It was wonderful. Thank you Mary & Tony!

Back to the beautiful Harrow School Speech Room for the talk.
Hanging in the Speech Room, a portrait of another distinguished Harrow School student, Winston Churchill.

The talk was followed by a drinks reception in the Old Speech Room Gallery. A fun evening!

Coincidentally, the calendar page I used as my inspiration to visit the Bay of Kotor featured a quote by Lord Byron!

Saturday, April 20 – Harrow on the Hill

I’ve always wanted to attend a play at the historic Old Vic Theatre. Well, tonight it is finally going to happen!

The Old Vic is a 1,000-seat theater located near Waterloo Station. It was established in 1818 as the Royal Coburg Theatre, and renamed in 1833 the Royal Victoria Theatre. In 1871 it was rebuilt and reopened as the Royal Victoria Palace.

Theater-themed light fixture in the stairway. Cool!
My seat was on the aisle in row X (front row). The seat is considered “side view”; it was therefore sold at a reduced price (my favorite phrase!). The cost of the ticket was £25.
The view from my seat. Perfectly fine.

Travel Note: I use a website called Theatre Monkey for seat location tips. Very handy if you ever plan on attending a show in London.

Machinal is a 1928 play inspired by the real-life case of the convicted and executed murderer Ruth Snyder. The 1928 production is notable for featuring Clark Gable in his Broadway debut. I enjoyed the play; the lead actress, Rosie Sheehy, was very good.

Sunday, April 21 – Harrow on the Hill

There is more of Lord Byron on today’s agenda. This afternoon the Harrow Hill Trust is sponsoring a walk entitled Mad, Bad & Dangerous To Know, George Gordon Byron (Lord Byron, 1788-1824).

Over 60 others joined Mary, Tony and me for the walk/talk. An impressive turnout!
Me and Tony are obviously in some serious conversation! (must be about Byron…)
The walk concluded with the reading of a Byron poem by a Harrow School student. Perfect!

Following the one hour walk, Mary & Tony invited about 20 folks over to the house (Byron House) for tea and cakes. A lovely ending to a fun Byron weekend!

Monday, April 22 – Harrow on the Hill

I’m down to the last three days of my trip, and I have a fairly busy day planned in the city.

My first stop is to attend another auction viewing, this time at Bonhams in Knightsbridge (near Harrods).
The auction is for Important Instruments of Science and Technology (as shown in the glass case).

Many categories of science and technology are represented in the auction: including globes, microscopes, sundials, cameras, telescopes, and more. A link to the auction is here.

I like these miniature globes. The low estimate though is £6,000 on each one. A little out of my price range!

My next stop is The National Gallery, where I’m going to check out a new exhibition.

Enjoying some pretty flowers near Buckingham Palace on my way to the Gallery.

Entry to the exhibition was at no charge. However, I booked a timed ticket to enter The National gallery (also at no charge), thereby avoiding the line outside.

Once in the Gallery though, there was a queue to enter the room with the Caravaggio.
I’m close! My time in line was only 15 minutes. People were only allowed entry into the room when others left.
The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula (c. 1610)

Well worth the visit. Caravaggio’s use of light amazes me!

And while I was at the Gallery, I absolutely had to stop and take a look at a couple of works by my favorite artist, Claude Monet…

Snow Scene at Argenteuil (c. 1875)
Water-Lilies (c. 1916)

I’m attending another play tonight. I had some time to kill though, so I just did some walking around the Charing Cross area.

I ended up at St. Paul’s Church (c. 1633), located just alongside Covent Garden.
The church’s grounds include this quiet (and generally ignored) haven just away from the hectic Covent Garden atmosphere. A perfect place for me to chill for a while!
Kind of surprised to see a parakeet here!
I booked this ticket a while back; when the production was first announced. I was interested mainly in the star power of Patricia Clarkson, and another Succession alum, Brian Cox.
Wyndham’s Theatre
My seat was the third one in on row Q. Great legroom, and no one sitting behind me. Another Theatre Monkey suggestion.
The view from my seat.

I have mixed feelings about the production. I was very long; 3 hours plus a 20 minute interval. And the subject matter wasn’t all that interesting to me. But it was the kind of play where the actors’ talent is on full display. And Clarkson and Cox delivered (as you would expect). Especially the former (in my opinion).

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