JE 161

London

Friday, January 24 – Harrow on the Hill

I’m taking a kind of off-the-beaten path walking tour today. I’ll be on the less-popular north bank of the Thames, heading downriver from The Tower of London. A walk less traveled!

The area covered includes the old docklands of Wapping, Shadwell and Limehouse, the original Tower Hamlets immediately east of the City. These districts have been redeveloped following the closure of London’s 19th century docks.

A view of Tower Bridge from a less-common perspective. That’s London City Hall in the background.

St. Katherine Docks, with Ivory House in the background. A hospital, medieval church and over 1,000 homes were demolished to make room for the dock, which opened in 1828.

The entrance locks to St. Katherine Docks. This narrow passage from the river is one reason the Docks were never a commercial success.

Originally an 18th century warehouse, now a restaurant (not the greatest reviews!).
Continuing along the Docks, with The Shard in the background.
Making my way along the Thames Path…

Wapping Pier Head. Georgian house built for officials of the London Docks Company. The garden covers the original entrance to the docks. (The Shard is everywhere!)

I like the name of this former warehouse (now apartments)!
St. John Blue Coat School (also now converted to apartments).

The boatyard of The River Police. Originating in 1798, the force was set up to deal with the endemic pilfering from the thousands of merchant ships moored on the river. They were the first properly organized police force in the country.

Another warehouse converted into apartments and shops.
This former pepper warehouse has been converted into an office development with eight luxury penthouses on the top floor.
The Prospect of Whitby Pub. Claims to be London’s oldest riverside pub, dating to 1520.
St. Paul’s Shadwell Church. Thomas Jefferson’s mother was baptized here in the early 18th century.
A view of Canary Wharf from riverside. I’m lucky to be here at low tide!
Gives you an idea of the Thames’s tidal range.

Limehouse Basin. This is the entrance to Regent’s Canal and thus to the whole of the national canal network.

The Grapes Pub (ca. 1583)
Along the towpath of The Limehouse Cut (a link between Limehouse Basin and the River Lee navigation to the east).
St Anne’s Church, Limehouse (ca. 1727)

This was an interesting area for wandering!

Saturday, January 25 – Harrow on the Hill

I was planning on sticking around the Hill today, working on the journal and travel planning. But it was just too nice outside; I had to get out and roam around. Let’s go!

I’ve chosen as my starting point Fulham Palace, located on the north bank of the Thames in southwest London.

Well, technically I’m starting my walkabout on the grounds of All Saints’ Church…

War Memorial statue by Alfred Turner
All Saints’ Church. The tower dates to 1440, the building to 1881.
These are Sir William Powell’s Almshouses, located adjacent to the church (ca. 1869).

Fulham Palace was formerly the principal residence of the Bishop of London from the 11th century until 1973. The palace houses a number of restored historic rooms and a museum documenting its long history. The property abuts Bishops Park, once part of the estate, and contains a large botanical garden.

A cute cottage at the entrance to the Palace grounds.
Approaching the Palace…
The courtyard
Bishop Sherlock’s room
The Great Hall
The Library. Note that there’s a hidden door on the left side of the back wall. (the bottom five shelves are the door)
I’m now making my way around to the back of the Palace…
The rear of the Palace
The Palace garden area, with All Saints’ Church in the background.
This 500 year old oak tree is amazing!

I’m now going to take the Thames Path upriver towards Hammersmith…

Sidenote: I’ve taken this picturesque walk in the past, and documented it in this journal, so I won’t be going into a lot of detail this time.

The ornamental lake in Bishops Park.
There’s a regatta taking place on the Thames today. Nice! (to be filed under stupid, but lucky…)

Sidenote: It turns out this event is the Quintin Head, where “Head” indicates it is a time-trial competition rather than head-to-head. The course is 4.6km long, running from Chiswick Bridge (University Post) to Fulham Reach (between Hammersmith Bridge and Harrods Depository).

This is Hammersmith Bridge, and the previous picture shows the Harrods Depository, so this is the finish area of the course.

This crew is fortunate in that their team facilities are not too far from the finish area (note the Hammersmith Bridge in the background); thereby reducing the distance they needed to row back upstream.

There were 300 crews entered in the regatta, of various age categories. Men and women.
Spectators at The Old Ship Pub.
I’m now further upriver at the Barnes Railway Bridge.
Crews standing by as they wait their turn to access the pier that will allow them to exit the river.

Here are a couple non-regatta photos from my walk along the Thames…

I like how this tree wraps around the entrance of the house. It must be even more impressive when it’s in full bloom!
Cool boat!
Days like this are the best, when something fun and unexpected just falls into your lap!

Sunday, January 26 – Harrow on the Hill

Sidenote: I received an email informing me that The Who will be performing again this year for The Teenage Cancer Trust at The Royal Albert Hall. Two shows in March. I’m debating whether or not to attend the concert again this year. I’m leaning towards no. But, then again, it is The Who after all, and how many more opportunities will I have to see them in concert? (like zero!) Tickets don’t go on sale until Friday morning, so I have a few days to have a think on it. Your feedback is welcome!

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