JE 165

Gibraltar

I’m back! (you’re thrilled, I can tell). And whew, we’ve got a little catching up to do! I’ve got over 800 photos to sort through, plus 30 pages of notes in my black book…

…so let’s get to it! Here’s the plan: These updates are going to take a while, so I’ll be intermixing posts from this trip along with my current activities. If you’re accessing the Journal Entries via the London 2025+ menu grid, you’ll be able to utilize the location identifiers for each Entry, thereby focusing only on the posts from the Gibraltar / N. Africa trip, if you so choose. Hope that helps!

Tuesday, February 11 – transit from London to Gibraltar

My British Airways non-stop flight from Heathrow to Gibraltar departs at 9:25 this morning. On their website, BA states that arrival at the airport should be no more than two hours before departure. Well, I took that to be a misprint, thinking they really meant at least two hours before. I was wrong.

Based on my incorrect assumption, I decided to take the first SL9 bus available this morning – at 5:45. And it was surprisingly crowded at this time of day. After arriving Heathrow at around 6:30, I had some lingering to do, since I couldn’t check-in and drop off my bag until 7:25. Oh well.

I was aboard an fully-loaded A320 for the 2 1/2 hour flight. And I think I mentioned last year that these BA flights have zero legroom! The cost of the flight was $206 (including a checked bag).

The airport is located adjacent to the iconic Rock.
View from the Immigration Hall.

My hotel is about a 15 minute walk from the airport. And the route to get there is the craziest I’ve experienced…

…I’m about to walk across the airport runway!
The runway crossing is open to pedestrians and bicycles when there is no air traffic (and vehicles on a limited basis). My hotel is one of the high-rises on the left.
Looking back to the airport.
$168/nt, incl breakfast (airport view!)

I spent the rest of the day doing my thing: roaming. In this case, mainly in the city center.

Commonwealth Park
Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned (ca. 1931)
Grand Casemates Square
The Convent, the official residence of the governor of Gibraltar since 1728; heavily rebuilt during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Wednesday, February 12 – Gibraltar

Today I’ll be exploring the Gibraltar Nature Reserve. It covers over 40% of Gibraltar’s land area; essentially the upper part of the Rock.

There are four entry points to the Reserve. I’ll be starting at The Pillars of Hercules, adjacent to the Mediterranean Steps. The walk from my hotel to the Steps took about an hour.

Here are a few views from my walk…

This is part of the Charles V Wall, at Prince Edward’s Gate. Both are 16th century Gibraltar fortifications. You’ll be seeing more of the Wall as I hike around the Nature Reserve.
£25 entry fee to the Nature Reserve.

The Pillars of Hercules represent Gibraltar’s ties to Greek mythology – namely the 12 labors of Hercules. According to legend, Hercules passed through here to take the cattle of Geryon – his tenth labor – and opened the strait, creating the pillars which received his name.

The Mediterranean Steps are where I officially entered the Nature Reserve.

The Steps were built by the British as part of the military communications system that allowed access to their various defense fortifications at the southern end of the Rock.

I don’t think the Steps are very popular, or well known. I didn’t see anyone else during my hour on the trail. It was a rather arduous trek, with steep elevation gains. The temperature was only in the upper 50s, but I was sweating like crazy during the ascent (while wearing shorts and a long-sleeved t-shirt)!

Here are few photos from the trail…

Looking south
A little bit of a hike up these steps!
Looking east
Looking north, near the top of the trail.

This was a fun, challenging hike. With great views!

My next stop is St. Micheal’s Cave. The cave is one of Gibraltar’s top tourist attractions, so I didn’t spend a huge amount of time there! Here are a few pictures…

Saw this as I walked along the Reserve…

And the view (undoubtedly somewhat different from what they saw in 1954!).
Remember the Charles V Wall? Well, here it is continuing up the side of the Rock.
More from the hike. The populated area in the right side of the picture is Spain.

Next stop: The Great Siege Tunnels are a series of tunnels inside the northern end of the Rock of Gibraltar. They were dug out from the solid limestone by the British during the Great Siege of Gibraltar of the late 18th century.

The view north to Spain, across the airport, from a tunnel outpost.
The WWII Tunnels.

During World War II, Gibraltar became a crucial stronghold. Beneath its surface, an extensive network of tunnels was carved into the limestone, creating an underground city. These tunnels stored essential resources, maintained military equipment, and housed a garrison of soldiers prepared for a prolonged siege. They also provided a strategic advantage, allowing for surveillance of enemy movements in the Strait of Gibraltar and beyond.

This WWII tunnel network is massive. An amazing piece of engineering/construction work!

Fun Fact: The tunnels of Gibraltar were constructed over the course of nearly 200 years, principally by the British Army. Within a land area of only 2.6 square miles, Gibraltar has around 34 miles of tunnels, nearly twice the length of its entire road network!

The Moorish Castle
The Tower of Homage

Construction of the Moorish Castle commenced in the 8th century AD, the date of its completion is not recorded. Its walls enclosed a considerable area, reaching down from the upper part of the Rock of Gibraltar to the sea. The most conspicuous remaining parts of the Castle are the upper tower, or Tower of Homage, together with various terraces and battlements below it.

This was a (reasonably, more below) fun day! I enjoy exploring these type of areas on foot. Ended up with close to 27k steps today. Nice!

Today’s negative experience relates to the fact that the cable cars that service the Rock were down for maintenance. It didn’t directly impact me, because I wasn’t planning on using them anyway. However, a lot of tourists do rely on them, so instead had to use taxis. This resulted in the roads of the Reserve being flooded with vehicles, which wasn’t always a pleasant experience for pedestrians like me. Another item to had to my list of reasons for disdain of taxi drivers!

Gibraltar Airport

Apparently, the Gibraltar Airport is infamous for it’s tricky approach due to ‘The Rock’ protruding over 400m into the air directly next to the runway. It’s a notoriously windy destination anyway, but when the wind is from the south it can become extremely dangerous as it curls around the rock and the airport is engulfed in unpredictable and unstable winds. In addition, the runway is relatively short, with water on both ends. It’s such a challenging airport that pilots have to go through special training to be able to land here, and only a select few are able to operate these flights.

A panorama I took of the runway.

Gibraltar Facts

  • A British Territory (I thought it was part of Spain, until Tony enlightened me!)
  • Although a part of the U.K., they drive on the right with LHD vehicles (probably due to the proximity to Spain)
  • The tap water is drinkable
  • Language is English (and Spanish)
  • Currency is British Pound

6 thoughts on “JE 165

  1. Loved this entry! I know almost nothing about Gibraltar, so thanks for sharing what you learned. Crazy about the miles of tunnels! Loved the pictures from your hike too!

  2. Tim the last picture showing the airport is great. Your visit to the reserve very interesting and it seem you did a lot steps. Took note about Hercules a the ten test, greek mitology! Thanks for sharing.

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