JE 85

The Big Island – Volcanoes National Park

Monday, March 7 – Hilo

I spent the morning getting caught up on the necessities of everyday life (email, finances, etc.) and working on a journal entry. In the afternoon I took a walk around the area near the hotel, and came across a nice little park on the waterfront.

This is the largest ornamental Japanese garden outside of Japan. It was built in 1917 to honor the island’s first Japanese immigrants.
The gardens cover an area of 30 acres and are (is?) located on Hilo Bay

Travel Note: I forgot to mention in yesterday’s entry that my flight to Kona was only about half full. That goes against what I encountered in my other two interisland flights – they were filled to capacity. Is the Big Island less popular? I’m guessing no; many other factors are in play (including my very small sample size!).

Tuesday, March 8 – Hilo

I’ve been looking forward to today’s excursion – a visit to Volcanoes National Park! The park covers over 500 square miles and includes two of the five volcanoes that formed the Big Island half a million years ago.

The VNP website includes detailed information about parking capacity at various spots throughout the park, as well as typical hourly occupancy at each location. They warn to have backup plans in case a lot is full. The trailhead for one of the hikes I’m interested in happens to be at a popular location. Mmmm…

…I therefore decided an early start was in order (the park is open 24 hours). I left the hotel around 6:30am; the drive to the park took about 40 minutes.

I guess I got here early enough!

I’ll start the day off easy with a short hike to Nāhuku (Thurston Lava Tube), which is one of the most popular attractions in the park.

The hike begins in a rain forest
Looking back from the entrance to the tube
The 600 foot long tube was formed 500 years ago by a 2,000 degree river of lava

Adjacent to the Lava Tube is the trailhead for Kilauea Iki, which will be my next hike…

This 3.3 mile loop hike also begins in the rainforest…
…and descends 400 feet to the solidified lava lake floor of Kīlauea Iki crater
Parts are still erupting steam!
The stone piles mark the trail (and the plant life is amazing!)
Looking back on the trail
The only other hikers I encountered on the crater floor (they were looping in the opposite direction)
I’m now making my way back up to the crater rim. You can see the trail along the crater floor.
Another view of the trail from the rim. The little specs are hikers!
Full circle, back in the rainforest. The hike took about 2 hours, but I was stopping a LOT to take pictures.
A panorama photo of the crater floor, that includes a self portrait!

I spent the next part of my visit traveling by car to various viewing locations throughout the park via Crater Rim Drive.

Steam Vents
A view from the summit (elevation 4,000 feet) of Kilauea Caldera and Halemaumau Crater
This is Volcano House, Hawaii’s oldest hotel (ca. 1877), and the only one located in the park
Great views from the hotel!
This is the Kilauea Military Camp (ca. 1916)
Once a working military post, these cottages have been converted to resort lodging for military personnel
Another view of my earlier crater floor hike, but from a different perspective – the Puu Puai Overlook

I finished the day with a drive along Chain of Craters Road. This 20 mile (each way) out-and-back trek travels from the high elevation of Crater Rim Drive to the coastal region of the park.

As the road name suggests, there are stops along the route to view various craters…
Also along the road were these signs indicating lava flow locations from previous eruptions
Amazing to imagine lava covering this entire area
Approaching the coast
I like this group of palm trees amongst the starkness!
At the end of Chain of Craters road is the Hōlei Sea Arch

A great day in the park!

With another pin & sticker set acquired ($10)
And a stamp too!

Fuel Price Check: I topped up on the way back to the hotel.

I’ve been reading about the spike in gas prices on the mainland, so I was actually surprised that the prices here aren’t even higher than this.

Travel Note: When I woke up this morning I noticed there was a cockroach in my bathroom. Not a huge deal, but I mentioned it to reception on my way out, in case they use some type of pest control measures. They promised to do a thorough cleaning of my room, and I was happy with that. Well, when I was checking my email later in the day I noticed that the hotel had provided me with a $50 refund. I wasn’t sure why, so I checked with the front desk and was informed it was due to the cockroach incident. Unexpected, but nice!

Wednesday, March 9 – Hilo

Today’s mission is to explore the east side of the island to the north of Hilo.

Rainbow Falls is a short drive from my hotel
Sadly, no rainbows seen today!
Beautiful flowers on display by the waterfall viewing area

My next destination was further up the coast, but along the way I noticed a sign pointing out a short scenic drive, so I decided to check it out.

Another cute one lane bridge…
…in a very damp environment!
Along the side of the road I noticed a trailhead leading down to Onomea Bay.
A short hike led to this beautiful spot!
An unexpected discovery. The best kind!
Note the cave to the right…
…which produced a different type of little waterfall.

On my way to the next stop I passed through the small town of Honoma…

…that included this quaint storefront
The falls can barely be seen just above the right edge of the sign. (Parking & Entry Fee: $15)
It was about a 5 minute walk to the viewing area
Akaka Falls drops more than 440 feet

About an hour’s drive north is my next destination – the Waipio Valley.

Passed by this beautiful tree on the walk to the valley lookout
The view from the lookout. Bounded by 3,000 foot cliffs, the “Valley of the Kings” was once a favorite retreat of Hawaiian Royalty.

There is a hiking trail leading from the lookout area down to the beach. It’s only about a mile long, but has a 1,000 foot elevation change and is known to be treacherous. I was going to give it a shot, but unfortunately the trail was closed today. No clear reason why was givin, but others I talked to at the lookout speculated that the locals are not happy with the tourist hikers and have forced the closure. Apparently it’s been an ongoing battle for years. A shame…

Since my hiking plans were thwarted, I needed to come up with a Plan B.

Fortunately, not to far away is the Kalopa State Recreation Area.

The 100 acre park is at an elevation of 2,000 feet, so it was nice and cool here.
I’m heading off on this 3/4 mile loop Native Forest Nature Trail ($1 donation for the trail pamphlet)
On the hike I was accompanied by the beautiful sounds of singing birds (which I sadly could not identify!)
Wow!

It started raining just as I finished the hike! Close to the trailhead though was a shelter with picnic tables. So I made my way there, had a snack, and then began the drive back to Hilo.

Sidenote: Averted a disaster today! As I was meandering around the island, I noticed a message on my phone: No SIM. Not No Service, but No SIM! Did I forget to pay the bill?? No, I’m on autopay! I tried several restarts to alleviate the problem, but with no success. Fortunately though I was still able to use the phone’s navigator app to get me around. (I think I’ve mentioned this in a previous post, but it’s worth repeating: Once a map is loaded into a phone’s nav app (either via a wireless or cell connection), it is stored there and a cell signal is NOT required to provide navigation, that is done by the phone’s GPS signal. This is an especially helpful tip when traveling overseas and facing expensive data fees.) When I got back to the hotel, I used the wireless connection there to (hopefully) find a local AT&T store. Yesss! There’s one just two miles away. After several failed attempts to correct the issue, the Tech Rep ultimately installed a new SIM card. Whew! Thankfully back on the network. The Rep mentioned that a failed SIM is a rare occurrence, but that mine is rather old! (iPhone 6, purchased fall of ’14) However, he also commented that he was impressed with the condition of my “old” phone (especially considering I don’t use a permanent protective case). Of course, he also tried to sell me a new phone! Thankfully I was close to an AT&T store when this happened. That’s not always the case though when I’m travelling; and it made me realize how dependent I am (we are) on our phones.

Travel Note: Hawaii announced that, as of March 26, masks will no longer be required while indoors, becoming the last state to drop the mandate. In addition, the directive that travelers from the mainland provide proof of vaccination or a negative Covid test will also expire on that date.

4 thoughts on “JE 85

  1. You have had an amazing few days. It’s so interesting that there are so few people exploring the island. Enjoy your last few days!

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