JE 128

London

Sunday, January 21 – Harrow on the Hill

I want to lead off by thanking all of you who reached out to me today on my birthday. It’s great hearing from you when I’m away from home. And yes, I’m spending another birthday somewhere other than Madison. I’ve documented previously the various places I’ve been on my birthday, so I won’t go through it again. I’ll just say that to be in Madison on this day has been a rare occurrence over the past 30+ years! The exception would be the Covid lock down of 2021 (but that pandemic resulted in a lot of exceptions!).

So what’s the plan for the big day? I’m pretty excited to be heading in to London to attend a women’s football (soccer) match between Chelsea and Manchester United at historic Stamford Bridge (home to the Chelsea men’s team as well). Most of you know I enjoy women’s sports, so the fact that I won’t be seeing the men in action doesn’t bother me in the least. In fact, tickets to the men’s matches are extremely difficult to obtain and prohibitively expensive. The ticket to today’s match was £12 (and you all know how cheap I am!).

The match kicked off at 12:30pm, with entry into the stadium beginning at 10:30am. I really had no clue how crowded it would be, so I left my flat a little before 9 to catch the Piccadilly line into the city. And I must say I was surprised by how crowded the train was. On a Sunday morning! And it wasn’t because of the football match. I don’t recall this being the case when I lived here previously. Oh well…

I arrived a little before 10am…
…and I guess I didn’t need to get here this early! Not bothered though, because it gave me plenty of time to walk around the grounds and get some photos without many fans in the frame.
The statue is of Peter Osgood. You can read about him here if you’re interested.
Arriving early gave me time to check out the team store. No purchases though! (Note the short line on the right to enter the store. I’m glad I went in now, because after the match the queue was massive!)
The Chelsea Football Club was formed in 1905, when they began playing at Stamford Bridge.
This wall is all that remains of the original stadium. The venue has undergone major changes over the years, most recently in the 1990s when it was renovated into a modern, all-seat stadium.
I did a little research about where to sit before I booked my ticket online. The two end zones were the least expensive, and each side had their own names – The Shed End and the Matthew Harding Stand. I subsequently discovered that the Shed End is where the visiting fans would be sitting (you can see that stipulated in the small print on the awning). It is also a standing optional area, which I wasn’t really interested in…
…I therefore chose a seat in the Matthew Harding Stand, with the home fans!
I liked my seat – in the front row corner of the upper section.
Another thing I discovered in my seat location research was the fact that the lower portion of the Matthew Harding Stand was, like The Shed End, standing optional. I took this photo during the match, and you can see that most of the fans are standing. They even have bars going across each row to keep everybody segregated when they’re not seated.
Whereas the upper stands where I sat had no option for standing. Perfect! (I took this picture when I first arrived; the section was filled by kickoff.)
A view of the West Stands from my seat.

I have to say I was a little concerned about what I was wearing to the match – specifically a maroon jacket and a red and black Wisconsin stocking cap – because the visiting team’s (Manchester United) colors are red and yellow. I wondered if that would be a problem since I was sitting in the home side end zone. But it turned out to be a non-issue. It was actually a very family-friendly atmosphere, with many children in attendance. Obviously the intensity level at the women’s matches is much lower than that at the men’s. Very enjoyable.

And we’re underway!

The stadium capacity is listed at around 41,000. I looked for an attendance figure for this match afterwards, but couldn’t find anything. I’m guessing it was around 1/3 full. It wasn’t a bad day to be a spectator – dry conditions with a temperature around 50 degrees.

Chelsea won the match 3-1, with all three of the home team goals scored by Lauren James. Impressive! Here she is (#10) after scoring her last goal on the end where I was sitting. If you look closely, you can see that she has a Chucky Hepburn hair color spot going on. (a Wisconsin basketball reference, for those of you wondering what the heck I’m talking about!)

The Chelsea women’s team is currently in first place in the Women’s Super League and has been very successful over the years. And in some good news for the U.S., it was announced last fall that the manager of Chelsea would be leaving her position at the end of the season (May) to become the new manager of the U.S. Women’s National Team. Nice!

Monday, January 22 – Harrow on the Hill

Sadly readers, today I’m observing another day of domestic bliss on the Hill. Did some travel planning, reading, grocery shopping, and went for a walk. Whoo hoo!

Tuesday, January 23 – Harrow on the Hill

It’s raining this morning; the first daytime rain since my arrival. A perfect time to get caught up on my journal! The weather cleared by the afternoon though, so I just went out for another walk around the area.

Apologies for the boring last couple days, but I do have some upcoming activities planned. So be sure to watch this space!

JE 127

London

Thursday, January 18 – Harrow on the Hill

A rare occurrence this morning (at least to me) – both the Piccadilly and Metropolitan lines are under severe delays. I guess my trip into the city will just be a little later. It’s not like I’m in a rush. Fortunately I can monitor the status of all the lines from the Transport for London website, or their app that I downloaded upon my arrival. And it’s probably best I didn’t get an early start, as I plan on attending a lecture in the capital this evening (more about that later).

Tony lent me a book on walking tours of London and today I chose a walk that covers Soho to Trafalgar Square. It’s bright and sunny today. Perfect for roaming. Below are a few pictures…

St. Patrick’s Church on Soho Square (the rare time that the view is better without leaves on the tree!)
This mural is off of Carnaby Street, and depicts the colorful history of Soho. Carnaby Street was the place to be during the fashion revolution of the 1960s.

It wasn’t a coincidence that the walk I chose concluded on Trafalgar Square. There’s a guided tour at The National Gallery this afternoon that I plan on attending. The tours last an hour and the guide typically selects four pieces of art in the museum’s collection to discuss (history, technique, background, etc.). There’s generally some type of connection between the pieces chosen, but not always. If it sounds like I’m familiar with these tours, it’s because I took them often when I lived here.

One of the selections from our tour. This is Turner’s The Fighting Temeraire from 1838. It is considered such a national icon that the image is include on the back of the new £20 note…

Mary told me about a free lecture series provided throughout the year by Gresham College. There’s one tonight that I attended entitled The Art and Science of Tuning (musical instruments), taking place at LSO St. Luke’s in the city.

It turned out to be very interesting, and the lecturer, Milton Mermikides, was very good. Gresham College recorded the lecture. Here’s a link to it if you’re interested in watching.

Prior to the start of the lecture. A good crowd! Cool venue too.

Friday, January 19 – Harrow on the Hill

I have a day of music planned.

I’m heading into the city this morning, Covent Garden specifically, to attend a free Live at Lunch performance at the Royal Opera House (ROH). These events are only held on Fridays, generally two per month. The performance begins at 1pm, but I wasn’t really sure of the logistics, so I ended up stopping by the ROH around 11:50am to check things out. It turns out that there was already a small group queuing up, so I joined them! The doors to the ROH opened at noon. That allowed us to move the line inside, where it became more organized, and warmer!

I was 8th in line; able to snag a front-row seat. Nice!
The soprano and her accompanist performed for an hour. It was wonderful. It consisted of several arias from various operas. The singer was excellent, and it was also nice that she took the time to explain the back story on each of the operas and the specific aria that she performed. (Note that the audience is also seated in the balcony behind the artists)
This was taken after the concert from the balcony. I was seated in the front row just to the right of the center aisle. Perfect!
This is a beautiful venue within the Royal Opera House. The roof is amazing.

After the performance I walked around Covent Garden a bit. Here are a few pictures…

Cute!
Great idea!
Here comes the train that will take me back to the Hill!

I mentioned at the beginning that I had a day of music planned. Well, this evening I’m attending another performance at the Harrow School. Tonight’s event is entitled Woodwind Evening. It consisted of ten individual student performances, mainly flute and clarinet, but also one bassoon solo! There were also two pieces played by a clarinet quintet. All included piano accompaniment as well.

The performance lasted about 75 minutes. Very enjoyable. The students are amazing. Sparsely attended though. Besides me, the audience included two parents, three school staff, and the other student performers. That’s it. In fact, it’s funny that afterwards one of the parents said hello to me and asked which of the soloists was my son!

Saturday, January 20 – Harrow on the Hill

Just stuck around the Hill today. Did some work on the journal, a little travel planning, went for a walk, and made a grocery run. Exciting stuff!

This evening though Tony and Mary invited my to join them for a concert in nearby Pinner (where they used to live). It was held in the Pinner Parish Church and consisted of works by Vivaldi, Mendelssohn, Brahms, and others performed by a chamber choir and small orchestral group. A fun event!

A nice setting, but not very warm!

JE 126

London

Tuesday, January 16 – Harrow on the Hill

For those of you who are fans of the TV series The Crown, today’s post should be fun. And hopefully you’ll find this interesting even if you haven’t watched the series.

The auction house Bonhams is selling the sets, costumes and props from the series via live and online auctions. The items have been available for viewing in New York, Los Angeles, Paris and now London ahead of the auction. Attending the preview requires a ticket, but it is free (my favorite word!). I’m off to Bonhams New Bond Street location this morning to check it out. Let’s go!

A reproduction of Saint Edward’s Chair (The Coronation Chair). Estimate: £10,000 – £20,000.
A reproduction of the Gold State Coach. Estimate: £30,000 – £50,000.
A replica of the Coronation ceremonial garments. Estimate: £20,000 – £30,000.
(in the background) The gates from the Buckingham Palace exterior set. Estimate: £6,000 – £8,000.
A replica of the Number 10 Downing Street facade. Estimate: £20,000 – £30,000.
A selection of Diana’s gowns (replicas)
Princess Diana’s green Jaguar (similar to), 1987 Jaguar XJ-SC 3.6-Litre Cabriolet. Estimate: £15,000 – £20,000.
A reproduction of Diana’s engagement ring. Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000.
This is amazing. It is a scale model of the Queen’s funeral procession; being sold as a complete set (over 500 pieces). Estimate: £8,000 – £12,000.
A foamboard model for St George’s Chapel. There are others like this in the auction. I thought they were kind of cool.
I like the NASA stuff on the second shelf. I’m thinking about bidding on the lot, but my minimalist self isn’t sure where I would put it! The estimate is £200 – £300. The current online bid is £20, but there are another three weeks to go!

As you can see by the pictures, it wasn’t very crowded. That surprised me. I asked one of the Bonhams representatives about this, and she said it was packed on the weekend. She estimated they had 1,500 visitors over the two days.

Here’s a link to the auctions, if you’re interested in checking it out (Or bidding! I could be your agent!).

I happened upon this statue of Roosevelt and Churchill on New Bond Street. (Allies by Lawrence Holofcener)

It was another bright sunny day here; a great day for a walk. After leaving Bonhams, I made my way to Trafalgar Square and took a quick stop in the National Portrait Gallery. I was looking for my favorite item in their collection, but unfortunately it wasn’t on display. Curious what it is? Here’s a link to it (I think part of what I like about the painting is its title – Mike’s Brother).

Over to Leicester Square, and I noticed there wasn’t a queue at the Lego Store, so I decided to take a look.

Note to self: Based on the high volume of visitors at Bonhams and the Lego Store over the weekend, and the lack of same today, I’m thinking it’s best that I maybe avoid these types of places in the city on the weekends. (Although, in contrast, the National Portrait Gallery was still very busy today)

I have to admit, this is a pretty cool place.
I was told this has over 600,000 pieces!
And Big Ben has even more pieces than the James Bond Car!

Wednesday, January 17 – Harrow on the Hill

Had a leisurely day around the neighborhood today. Worked on the journal, did some reading, went for a walk, made a grocery run, and did some advance planning, including booking a couple London events for March.

Travel Note

I’ve mentioned making stops at some of the London Museums since my arrival. I’m happy to say that most of the museums here are free (my favorite word again!). This is probably just a reminder to some of you. The exception would be any special exhibitions that are taking place.

Along those lines, according to one source, three out of the top ten most-visited museums in the world reside in London (and 6 out of the top 20). Here’s the top ten (you can probably guess number one!):

  1. Louvre Museum, Paris
  2. National Museum of Natural History, Washington, D.C.
  3. National Museum of China, Beijing
  4. National Air and Space Museum, Washington, D.C.
  5. British Museum, London
  6. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City
  7. National Gallery, London
  8. Vatican Museums, Vatican City (Rome)
  9. Natural History Museum, London
  10. American Museum of Natural History, New York City

If you’re interested, here’s a link to the complete list.

JE 125

London

Saturday, January 13 – Harrow on the Hill

Time to get reacquainted with London. I’m heading into the city today! It’s rather overcast though, so I don’t plan on taking many pictures (be patient, I’ll be here for over three months!).

Travel Note

Where I’m staying is equal distant between two underground (subway in the U.S.) stations – South Harrow and Harrow on the Hill. The South Harrow station serves the Piccadilly Line, which stops at many of the popular tourist areas in Central London, including Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner, Piccadilly Circus, and Covent Garden. It also provides service to Heathrow Airport.

The Harrow on the Hill station serves the Metropolitan Line. Stops on this line include Wembley Park and the King’s Cross & St. Pancras train station (with trains to Paris and other locations). This line can also get you into central London with less stops than the Piccadilly Line, but will generally require a transfer to another line, depending on your destination in the city.

It’s probably a 10-15 minute walk from Byron House to either underground station. The train ride into the city costs £3.50 ($4.40).

I’m not in a hurry this morning, so I’m taking the Piccadilly Line into the city. Once on the train it’s about a 30 minute ride.

I did a lot of walking today (London is a great walking city), passing by the follow spots:

  • Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A)
  • Hyde Park
  • Buckingham Palace
  • Trafalgar Square
    • The National Gallery
    • St. Martin in the Fields (where I took a rest stop)
  • Leicester Square
  • Russell Square
  • The British Museum (another rest stop)

And as I said, sadly I only took a couple pictures from my walk – things I found interesting…

I don’t recall every seeing a big “SALE” sign affixed to the outside of Harrods. Maybe I just never paid attention before!
There’s a line to get into the Leicester Square Lego store! Not a very long one, but still. And they’ve got it roped off, airport security style, so it must be a common occurrence.

I ended up with around 22k steps today. Pretty happy with that.

Sunday, January 14 – Harrow on the Hill

I had a leisurely morning and then just took a walk around Harrow in the afternoon. Pretty low key folks (I warned you that this year was going to be less manic than last year! But probably more boring for you!)

One of the perks of living in Harrow on the Hill is the access given to the residents by the Harrow School to many of their student cultural activities (plays, concerts, art showings, etc.). It reminds me of the similar opportunities provided by the University of Wisconsin to those living in Madison.

The spring term has just begun and this afternoon I had the opportunity to attend their fist event open to the public – a Cello Masterclass. In this instance eight students participated in the class. Each individually performed a short piece and were then critiqued and instructed by a visiting professor, who was sitting in only for this class. The visitor was Lionel Handy, who I learned via his introduction spent 10 years as principal cellist of the Academy of St Martin in the Fields and has been a professor at the Royal Academy of Music since 1982. Impressive! The class lasted nearly three hours, but I was never bored. The students’ performances were amazing, and Professor Handy was very engaging.

Professor Handy working with one of the students. As you can see, the class was lightly attended. I was the only member of the general public. The others in attendance were either students, family members of students, or Harrow School staff. Pretty cool that I was able to attend!

Sidenote: Those of you who are University of Wisconsin Basketball fans (isn’t everyone?!?), will be interested to know that two former players, Jordan Taylor and Sam Dekker, play for the London Lions, the local professional team. I’d definitely like to see them play, especially after I discovered that tickets can be had for as little as £5! However, I looked at a couple recent box scores and neither of the two played in those games. I’m not sure if they’re injured, or what. I’ll need to do some research, because I’d like to know that at least one of them will be playing if I show up! Watch this space…

Monday, January 15 – Harrow on the Hill

It’s a beautiful day today*, so I’m heading into the city to take some pictures!

* Well, the skies are clear, but the temperature is only in the mid-thirties (still better than Madison though, where the expected HIGH temperature today is going to be BELOW zero!!)

Below are some of the views from my day. I’ve included captions on each picture, even though I’m fairly certain you’re familiar with most of these attractions.

The National Gallery (with the shadow of Nelson’s Column looming over it!)
The source of the shadow!
Buckingham Palace (the Union Jack is flying, so the King is in residence)
View of the London Eye from St. James’s Park
I like the fact that there’s a statue of Abraham Lincoln in London (near Westminster Abbey).
A less common view of the Houses of Parliament
The Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, and the London Eye (FYI, the London Eye is closed for annual maintenance during the month of January)
This long wall along the south bank of the River Thames, across from the Houses of Parliament, is dedicated to those who died from Covid.
Another view of HoP and BB
View of St. Paul’s Cathedral from the Millennium Bridge
Southwark Cathedral
Tower Bridge
Tower of London
City Hall (foreground) and The Shard (background)
St Botolph’s Aldgate
I made a short stop at the Tate Modern (to warm up!), and noticed that their gift shop had some items on sale. The result was the first souvenir purchase of the trip! Bought these two for a total of £1.75!

Travel Note: Remember all the issues I had last year regarding the requirement for having proof of return or onward travel before being allowed to enter a country? (including being denied boarding of my flight from Chicago to Panama City) Well, I had a one-way flight from Newark to London and nobody cared! (I did have a one way return booked though, just in case!)

JE 124

London

Thursday, January 11 – Harrow on the Hill

You’ve been on edge, waiting to hear how I slept, haven’t you? Well, I have some surprisingly good news to report. By 7:30 last night I was done. Unable to keep my eyes open. So I gave in and went to bed. Fell asleep straight away. And then I woke up at 12:30am. Ugh! Fortunately though after about 30 minutes of reading I was ready to go back to sleep. I didn’t wake up again until 8:30am. Awesome! I wasn’t in a hurry to get out of bed either; spent the next couple hours there reading. A nice morning!

I spent the afternoon working on my first Journal Entry for this trip. It took longer than expected, as I ended up writing more than typical (sorry about that!). Also, getting things set up for the new separate London trip page took some time; especially since I had forgotten how I had formatted the pages for the other trips from when I did the editing last summer! I’m a mess!

I had a fun evening though. My hosts, Mary & Tony, invited me to join them for dinner. A home-cooked meal? Yes, please!

Mary & Tony as we prepare to sit down to dinner. It was a wonderful evening with a delicious meal. Thank you!

Friday, January 12 – Harrow on the Hill

Even though I left several years ago, I’ve remained on the emailing list of several London museums and entertainment venues. I guess I could have stopped the emails, but I kind of like reading them. And yesterday I received a very interesting email from The Royal Albert Hall. It announced two shows in March by The Who, to benefit the Teenage Cancer Trust. I would definitely like to attend that! Tickets went on sale this morning at 9am. I logged into the RAH website at around 8:50 and was informed that I had been placed in a holding area with all of the other interested folks; at 9am we would then be placed in a random order queue to acquire tickets. Okay. Well, 9am rolls around, and my number is…4,000 something. Yikes! (not Taylor Swift terrible at least!). It took me about an hour to get to the head of the line, and by then I figured my chance of getting a decent seat was minimal. However, I ended up snagging one in the 7th row of the stalls, which I was pleased with. I imagine the fact that they’re doing two shows, and I only needed one ticket, helped get me to a good spot. So I now have two concerts to attend at The RAH during my stay here. Some of you know about the other one, but I’ll hold back those details for later.

After being a slug all day yesterday, I decided I needed to get out today and do some walking around. I went down to the South Harrow area and continued out further to Northolt. On the way back I picked up some groceries at ALDI. (This is exciting stuff, isn’t it?) The only two photos of (questionable) interest from my walk are presented below…

Here’s a belated picture of an SL9 (Superloop) bus; the type that was my ride from the airport on Wednesday.
Those of you that have been following this journal for a while know that I have a weird fascination with fuel prices. I can’t explain it, I’m just off. Anyway, this converts to $6.81/gallon. Not so bad in the States after all, is it?

Travel Notes

In Journal Entries from past trips I’ve gone through some of the things I’ve done to prepare for an extended time away from home and outside of the U.S. Probably not worth repeated them here, other than to say I basically have done all of the same things, including items like using a VPN in conjunction with local wireless internet access, and purchasing travel medical insurance. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

One additional thing I’ve done for this trip relates to my phone. Last summer I finally upgraded from my iPhone 6. It was long ago no longer supported by Apple, and some of the apps stopped working. I gave in to planned obsolescence! In addition to the physical SIM card, the new iPhones now also offer the option of installing two eSIMs. I used one of those eSIMs for my AT&T service in the U.S., and for this trip I downloaded a U.K. data-only eSIM. This U.K. SIM cost $6, offering 3Gb of data with a 30 day validity. This compares to AT&T charging me $10/day for international service (with a maximum of $100 over a 30 day period). The caveat is that the U.K. SIM is data-only, so voice service is not included. But that’s not a big deal for me. (I can make cheap (or free) phone calls when I have WiFi access) Also, the 3Gb of data may not seem like a lot, but I have the option of topping it up if I run low before the 30 days are up.

While we’re on the subject of new electronics, I also bought a new laptop over the Black Friday / Cyber Monday weekend. My previous one was 12 years old, running Windows 7 (also no longer supported). The wake up moment occurred in the fall when it booted up to the dreaded blue screen! I was able to restore its settings, but was a little concerned! (Remember when I dropped the laptop at the Bogota airport security checkpoint last year? And it kept on ticking? I have to say that laptop was a trooper)

The new laptop. A little bigger than I planned, but I loved the specs combined with the price. It’s the same brand as my last one – ASUS. (The desktop picture is from Barbados last year)

Final piece of housekeeping…

Here’s the extent of stuff I have in my check luggage this year. A little more that last year due to the cold(er) weather aspect!
So I have the extra duffel bag this time. I probably could have got everything in the duffel, but I wanted to have the smaller piece for the side trips. You may also notice that I replaced last year’s haggard backpack!
But I decided to keep my holey shoes! I bought these new for the Hawaii trip. Then wore them again last year. They’re rough, but comfortable! We’ll see how it goes…

These first two Journal Entries have been brutally boring, I know. But bear with me, I promise it will get better. I plan on heading into the city tomorrow and do some roaming around. Hopefully some good photos will be the result!

JE 123

London

Tuesday, January 9 & Wednesday January 10 – transit from Madison to London

Welcome back everyone! Thank you for continuing to follow along as I once again escape a Wisconsin winter.

Before I begin to document this latest adventure, I wanted to make you aware of updates I’ve made to the website. This main page of the site remains unchanged; a continuous reverse chronological scroll of all of my Journal Entries dating back to day one (January 10, 2019) . Added though are some menu items. There are now separate pages for each trip I’ve taken since the origin of the journal (e.g., 2019 South America, 2022 Hawaii). These new pages are set up in a grid style for each trip, with each Journal Entry having its own individual link (no scrolling). The entries are identified by number, location, and date. Also, the Google Map created to track my island hopping last year was pretty popular, so I’ve gone back and developed maps for the previous trips too (and there will be one this year as well). In addition to the Journal Entry grid on each of the new trip pages, there is also a link to the Trip Map. Please let me know what you think of the changes. Hopefully you will find them helpful. And I’m open to any suggestions regarding other format changes.

Okay, let’s get on with it…

After last year’s manic pace (13 countries/territories over 100 days), I decided this year to base myself in one location and take short out-and-back trips from there. It required little contemplation to determine that London was the logical place to plant myself. Although it’s not exactly an escape from cold weather, it’s generally an improvement over Madison (as I write this it is 42 degrees here and 23 degrees in Madison). It’s definitely a less crowded time of year to be here. It provides easy travel access to a multitude of places. And finally, I really enjoyed my time living here and am thankful I have the opportunity to return for an extended stay.

I had an early departure from Madison on Tuesday (6:44am). This proved fortuitous, as a winter snow storm arrived overnight Monday and was expected to last into Wednesday morning. I decided to wake up at 1am on Tuesday to see how much snow had accumulated and check the status of flights. Fortunately there were only flurries at this time and no flight disruptions. The previous day I reserved a 4am Lyft ride to the airport; much earlier than I normally would for a 6:44 flight, but I wasn’t sure what the road conditions would be like, and I wanted to have time to put a contingency plan in place in case the Lyft driver bailed on me! Once again, luck prevailed as the snowfall remained light, my driver arrived on schedule, and the flight remained slated for an on-time departure. The only hiccup occurred after the plane pulled away from the gate. Since it had been sitting overnight, the plane had accumulated some snow and ice and required deicing. The wait for the deicing trucks and the actual deicing of the plane resulted in a one hour departure delay. But again, I lucked out because I had a massive layover of 8 hours in Newark.

Prior to Deicing
During Deicing
Wing Deicing

As the airlines continue to devalue the use of their airmiles, I decided to cash in some of mine for a business class ticket to Heathrow on United. The one-way fare cost me 80k miles + $6 (I like the six dollars part!). In addition to having the business class seat, I was also able to access a lounge at Newark reserved for business class travelers on international flights. This was a nice bonus, considering my long layover.

The lounge was basically deserted when I arrived mid-morning, but was packed by late afternoon, as most of the transatlantic flights departed in the evening (mine was at 6pm).

The flight was comfortable, but uneventful. The meals were alright, but I thought the entertainment options were pretty thin. The interior of the plane seemed outdated too (a Boeing 767). And I didn’t sleep very much.

We landed around 6:30am on Wednesday (12:30am in Madison). One final advantage of the business class upgrade was the availability of an Arrivals Lounge that United has at Heathrow. It isn’t very big, but has many private shower rooms, which I am sure is its main drawing card. I definitely took advantage of this perk. Following the shower, I chilled out a bit in the lounge and then made my way to the Heathrow bus terminal for the ride into London.

A tube strike was planned in London for this week, so that transport option from the airport was off the table. I have to say though that during my time here I ended up taking the bus to and from the airport more often than not. When compared to taking the train, it’s much less expensive (cost: £1.75), requires no transfers, stops at the same place (South Harrow Station), and probably now takes less time with the Superloop express service to Harrow (thanks for the tip Mary!). It’s funny, at Christmas Holly and I were reminiscing about her visit here, with the late night arrival at Heathrow and our bus ride back to my place.

Sidenote: The tube strike was called off by the time I arrived in London, but as I noted above, the bus was the better option anyway.

Many of you who read this journal came to visit when I lived in London (specifically, Harrow on the Hill), and I’m thankful for that – a lot of great memories. Well, I’m very happy to say that my accommodation this winter will be in the same house in which I lived from 2007 to 2010 (can’t believe it’s been 17 years since I arrived to work in London, thanks again for recruiting me Ed!).

Look familiar to some of you? I lived in the two bedroom flat on the top floor of this picture.

I became friends with Mary & Tony, the owners of Byron House, during my time here and we’ve stayed in touch ever since. I last visited them during my Europe trip in January of 2020. Well, in addition to the two flats on the top floor of the house which are currently under long-term lease, they also have two smaller flatlets on the second floor. And one of those was fortunately available for me to rent from January through April. Perfect!

Living Room
Short stairway up to…
…the bedroom
Kitchen/Dining

A lovely accommodation! And the rent is a reasonable £850 per month, which includes weekly washing of sheets and towels and access to the washer and dryer for my personal laundry. Thank you so much Mary & Tony! (and for the arrival goodies!)

I arrived at Byron House around 10:30am and enjoyed catching up with Mary & Tony over tea. Following that I figured it would be best if I got out and did some walking around, to both enjoy the beautiful day and fight back any urge I had to fall asleep!

For those of you who haven’t visited, Harrow on the Hill is a quaint, historic village located northwest of London near Wembley Stadium. It is probably best know for being home to the Harrow School, a prestigious boarding school for boys. Founded in 1572, the school’s list of distinguished alumni includes seven former British Prime Ministers (Churchill amongst them).

To follow are some pictures from my walk around the Hill…

Harrow School – Old Schools Building
Harrow School – Library
Harrow School – Chapel
I noticed these signs placed in front of many of the Harrow School buildings. These are new to me. Mary explained that they come as result of some abuse of the grounds and buildings by the public while the students were taught remotely during the Covid lock down. So sad…
St. Mary’s Church (ca. 1094)
I’ve always liked this cute little house on the Hill!
The Old Etonian Hotel & Restaurant. Kari & Tom stayed here when they came to visit with my Dad. And I stayed here when I came back for business trips. Enjoyed a work Christmas lunch here too. Sadly, it is now closed (a Covid casualty).

For the rest of my walk I ventured down to Greenford, where I used to work. The next few pictures are from that area, and will probably only interest those of you readers who worked there. For the rest, feel free to scroll on past!

The Tower was sold several years ago and converted into flats.
It looks like a 2nd phase of conversion is planned. It’s interesting that the Kellogg Tower sign is still in place!
The Brokengate is still here! A popular lunch spot.

Surprisingly, the Wenzel’s sandwich, bread & pastry shop is gone. That was another popular lunch spot for us expats!

It looks like there was a fire at the Rising Sun…

Let me know if you’d like me to check out any other of your favorite spots from the past!

I spent the evening getting settled in, unpacking, and attempting to stay awake as long as possible! Was I able to avoid jet lag and get a good night’s sleep? Check back next time to find out! (quite the cliffhanger, right?!?)

JE 122

Favorite Trip Photos

Photo Recap

I snapped over 3,500 pictures during the course of the trip. Here are a few of my favorites…

Panama Canal Cruise
My buddy Daniel on the Panama Canal cruise
Oistins, Barbados
Bathsheba, Barbados
Paynes Bay Beach, Barbados
Grand Anse Beach, Grenada
St. George’s Harbor, Grenada (one of Holly’s favorites too!)
With Anthony, on the rim of La Soufrière Volcano, Saint Vincent
Petit Piton, Saint Lucia
Grand Baie Beach, Guadeloupe
Deep Bay and Deep Bay Beach, Antigua
English Harbour and Falmouth Harbour, from Shirley Heights in Antigua
Fort James, Antigua
Runaway Beach, Antigua
Maho Beach, Sint Maarten
Montego Bay, Jamaica (now the desktop photo on my laptop!)
The Snorkeling Gang on Caye Caulker, Belize
Caye Caulker, Belize (Kari also liked this one!)

A lot of beach photos, I know. But come on, it was (mainly) the Caribbean after all!

JE 121

Placencia to Belize City to Madison

Monday, April 17 – Placencia

And now, the end is near…

Today is my last full day in one place as the trip draws to a close. Tomorrow I’ll be traveling back to Belize City, and on Wednesday to Madison. I’m thinking this will be a day of leisure.

I took a walk on the beach, worked on a journal entry and spent the rest of the day by the pool and on the patio (sound familiar?).

I’ve learned about Sargassum seaweed during my travels around the Caribbean. I’ve seen it on several of my stops. Some history: Beginning in 2011, unprecedented quantities of Sargassum began inundating coastal areas in Brazil, the Caribbean, Gulf of Mexico, and the east coast of Florida. These events cost millions of dollars in lost revenue for the tourism industry, especially hurting small Caribbean countries whose economies are highly dependent on seasonal tourism. Apparently there are three main factors behind the increased presence of the seaweed in the Caribbean: a) a nutrient influx into the seawater (from the Amazon, Congo and Mississippi Rivers); b) Trade Winds and Currents; and c) Human Effects (deforestation, waste-water runoff, and commercial agriculture fertilizer). For me personally, the beach here in Placencia is where I’ve seen the greatest presence of Sargassum on the trip.

Tuesday, April 18 – transit from Placencia to Belize City

I’m back on Tropic Air early this afternoon to Belize City; this time to the international airport.

A 10 USD taxi ride brought me to the Tropic Air “terminal” at the Placencia airport.
Ready for boarding.
Looking out from the plane. It kind of reminds me of a rural train station stop!
A couple views from the flight…

Including the pilot, there were 4 of us on board. The flight lasted 25 minutes.

On the ground at Belize International Airport.
I’m spending the night at the River Bend Resort…
…it’s located on a peninsula, and can only be reached by boat.
Individual cabanas.
96 USD for the night, including breakfast.
The breakfast/reception/common area.
I choose this accommodation mainly because it’s located close to the airport and provides free shuttle service. It has good reviews too!

Belize Information

  • Currency: Belize Dollar
  • Language: English
  • Vehicle Traffic: Drive on the right
  • Weather: Highs in the upper 80s, Lows in the upper 70s, moderately high humidity
  • Covid Entry Requirements: None
  • Mask Wearing: Rare
  • Electrical Outlets: U.S. Type
  • Drinkable Tap Water: No
  • Timezone: Same as U.S. Mountain Time

Wednesday, April 19 – transit from Belize to Madison

Breakfast was nothing special this morning, but I think Montego Bay raised my expectations!
There’s a cute little puppy living on the property! Her name is Maya…
…I ended up playing with her a bit this morning before I had to depart for the airport.

I’m on American Airlines today back to Madison, via Dallas. I departed Belize around 1pm and landed in Madison at 11pm (home around midnight). Both flights were on 737s, and they were full! I again used miles for these flights; the cost was $78 + 36,000 miles. The Lyft ride in Madison was $30.

Travel Note: The line for immigration in Dallas was massive! However, I have Global Entry, and there were zero people waiting there. I walked right through! Awesome! Much of the time though the weak link in the Global Entry process is the baggage claim. You might get through immigration quickly, but there is still that wait for your luggage. Not today! Non-stop through immigration….and my bag is waiting for me! Wow! Full disclosure however: When I entered the U.S. in Fort Lauderdale a couple weeks ago Global Entry provided no advantage; there was no wait at immigration for the travelers without GE.

Another Travel Note: I was going to mention this earlier in the journal, but didn’t want to jinx myself. Have you noticed the lack of rain days during my trip? Like Hawaii last year, I’ve been unbelievably fortunate. Crazy! I might have had a couple days of rain this year, but that’s it.

In case you were wondering…

…my shoes survived the trip…
…and so did the backpack. Barely!

This has been an amazing trip! I know it could have been better if I had done some advanced planning, but I’m happy with the way it turned out. There’s been a LOT of moving around though. I foresee next winter’s escape being based in one place, with short out and back trips from that location.

Thanks to all of you for following along. I hope you haven’t been too bored, or felt obligated to read all of the entries. That’s not my intent. And much appreciation for all of your comments and questions, via this website and through phone calls, emails, and texts. While traveling solo the interaction with you means a lot to me. Until next year…

Epilogue

Throughout this journey I’ve compiled some trip-related lists. One caveat: While reading them over please remind yourself of my weirdness! The lists are random and in no particular order.

Favorite Experiences

  • Panama Canal Cruise
  • Volcano Hike
  • Using the Public (mini)Buses
  • Mantego Bay B&B
  • Caye Caulker Snorkeling

Favorite Places

  • Grenada
    • Beachside Grilled Fish Meals
    • Picturesque Harbor
    • Waffle Cones
    • Roti Stand
  • Antigua
    • Amazing Blues of the Ocean
    • Beautiful Beaches
    • Good walking/hiking
      • Hiking around Nelson’s Dockyard
  • Caye Caulker
    • Atmosphere
    • Snorkeling
    • Fellow Travelers

Favorite Accommodation

  • Montego Bay B&B (duh!)

Favorite Airbnbs

  • Barbados
    • Great Porch
    • Nice Breeze
    • No Mosquitos
    • Nearby Café
  • St. Lucia
    • Great Hosts
      • Provided food due to my late arrival
      • Homemade Soup
  • Dominica (1st time)
    • Good Host
    • Nice Patio/View
    • Least Expensive!

Favorite Meals

  • Grilled Fish Sandwich and Rum Punch from a food truck on the beach in Barbados
  • Mahi Mahi and Kale & Mango Smoothie at Ma Cherie Café in Barbados
  • Grilled Fish and Rum Punch at Beachside Market in Grenada
  • Roti in Grenada
  • Grenada Chocolate Ice Cream in a Waffle Cone
  • Grilled Fish at Dantie’s in Dominica
  • Homemade Soup from Airbnb hosts in St. Lucia
  • Rum Punch at Top Bar in Dominica (& Rum Punch in general!)
  • Coconut Water following the Volcano Hike in St. Vincent
  • Plantains and Sea Moss drink with Airbnb host in Dominica
  • Akee & Saltfish Patty in Kingston
  • All of the breakfasts at the Montego Bay B&B
  • Smoothies in St. Kitts
  • Pineapple-Ginger Ice Cream in Jamaica

Least Favorite Experiences

  • Dominica Ferry Terminal
  • Dominica Taxis
  • Taxis in General (no change for minor large bills, among other issues!)
  • Saturation (This is a travel-related term Xavier introduced me to – he experienced it during a month-long trip in Europe. It describes repeatedly seeing amazing things and becoming immune to the “wow” factor, which is absolutely a terrible thing to have happen. Unfortunately I experienced some of that on this trip – in regards to forts, beaches, & greenery. I’m not happy about it, and desperately fought against it.)

Least Favorite Airbnb

  • Dominica (2nd time)
    • Mosquitos
    • Noisy
    • Otherwise though, good
      • Location
      • View
      • Host
      • Top Bar

I’m sure I forgot some things, so feel free to call me out if you notice any oversights!

Let’s Look at the Data

Below I’m going to list a bunch of statistics, both from this trip and from all of my previous winter escapes (yes, I’m a dork). Please remember that you’re under no obligation to grind through this stuff!

Countries Visited

I visited 11 new (to me) countries and 2 new territories on this trip. I feel incredibly lucky to say I have now been to 81 countries. Below is a breakdown of visited countries by continent (and the % of countries I’ve been to on each continent):

  • Africa: 3 (6%) – much yet to see in Africa!
  • Antarctica: 0 (0%) – maybe this will be my 100th country?
  • Asia: 20 (44%)
  • Europe: 29 (60%)
  • North America: 19 (83%)
  • Oceania: 2 (14%)
  • South America: 8 (67%)

Trip Length

  1. 2023 Caribbean: 100 days
  2. 2019 South America: 77 days
  3. 2022 Hawaii: 66 days
  4. 2020 Europe: 33 days
  5. 2020 South America: 30 days (cut short due to Covid)

Trip Cost

Total

  1. 2023 Caribbean
  2. 2022 Hawaii
  3. 2019 South America
  4. 2020 Europe
  5. 2020 South America

Per Day

  1. 2022 Hawaii (shocking!)
  2. 2019 South America (skewed higher by Galapagos Islands and Easter Island)
  3. 2023 Caribbean
  4. 2020 South America
  5. 2020 Europe (skewed lower due to the use of frequent flyer miles for the transatlantic flights)

Steps

Total

  1. 2023 Caribbean: 1.32 million (that’s roughly 600 miles!)
  2. 2019 South America: 1.09 million
  3. 2022 Hawaii: 1.07 million
  4. 2020 Europe: 550 thousand
  5. 2020 South America: 440 thousand

Per Day

  1. 2022 Hawaii: 16.2 thousand
  2. 2020 Europe: 16.1 thousand
  3. 2020 South America: 14.5 thousand
  4. 2019 South America: 14.4 thousand
  5. 2023 Caribbean: 13.2 thousand (embarrassingly low result!)

2023 Extremes

  • Most: 34.9 thousand in Barbados
  • Least: 1.3 thousand on the day after the St. Vincent Volcano hike

Postcards

  • I mailed 11 postcards to Oliver on this trip. Two are still in transit; but as of this writing the shortest delivery time was 12 days from Saint Martin ( a French Territory – I mailed the card during my day visit there from Sint Maarten), and the longest delivery time was 29 days from Dominica.

Planes, Ferries, Buses & Trains

I took 22 flights on this trip (not a great carbon footprint, I know…) totaling a little over 10k miles. The longest flight was from Toronto to Panama City, the shortest from Dangriga to Placencia in Belize.

I also traveled 5 times on ferries/water taxis; twice on buses; and once on a train (Fort Lauderdale to Miami).

Trip Map

The update to my trip map is now complete. The link to it is here.

Favorite Photos

I plan on going through my trip photos over the next few days and uploading a few of my favorites here. Please check back if you’re interested. Thanks!

JE 120

Caye Caulker to Placencia

Wednesday, April 12 – Caye Caulker

Sam and Sophie told me about a yoga class on the island; sounds interesting! I’ll be joining them this morning, and Katie thought she would try it too. Great!

The class took place on the top (3rd) floor of a building that also houses a cafe. The open air studio was full – probably 20 of us (including my three snorkeling friends). The class lasted an hour and cost 10 USD. It was fun!
After class we all went here to grab something to eat (Tush joined us too).
Sophie looking over the menu.
Sam decided on a smoothie bowl and mini donuts with nutella dip. The bowl looked good…
…so I got one too! I chose papaya and banana, with toppings of pineapple, cranberries, granola, and honey. 7.50 USD. (I had one of Sam’s donuts too!)
All mixed up. Very good!

After brunch we split up and agreed to meet later in the afternoon at a nearby beach for some wildlife viewing.

I spent my afternoon working on a journal entry and taking a bike ride around the island.

This is the property adjacent to my Airbnb, where they have an arrangement that allows their guests to use the chairs. Yes, I took advantage! (and I like this picture, with the shadows!)
The Caye Caulker Fire Department.
I rode my bike by the place where I’ll be meeting the gang later – Stingray Beach. They have these hammocks and swings in the water, which is pretty cool (literally!).
The beach gets its name because of this (and it’s the reason we’ll be back here later today). Basically, the bar on the beach feeds the rays every afternoon to attract them (and customers!). Another case of messing with the ecosystem that leaves me a little uncomfortable.
There’s a sea horse viewing here too. In this case though they’ve set up a natural habitat to bring them to this location – not as objectionable!
Flowers spotted during the ride…
It’s later in the afternoon now and I’m back at the beach. The crowd has gathered for the arrival of the rays.
Definitely too touristy for me.
I stayed on the pier and was able to see a couple rays swimming by.
A sea horse too.
And this cute little fish.

Sadly, my snorkeling friends were all departing in the morning, so we said our goodbyes following the stingray viewing. I had fun hanging out with them.

Unfortunately, the nature of my trip – staying mostly in Airbnbs, and having little opportunity to book group tours – has limited my interaction with other travelers, which is too bad.

Thursday, April 13 – Caye Caulker

When I was staying at the B&B in Belize City I met Yasir, who is from Canada, and was also traveling to Caye Caulker. We’re going to get together for lunch today. While waiting for the meet, I did a little walking around the island.

The island of Caye Caulker was split in two by Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Both the airport and the ferry docks are located in the south, which is where I’m staying, and where most of the activity takes place.
There is a ferry service that runs between the north and south sections though.
Yasir and I decided on this roadside stand for lunch.
I went with shrimp kabobs with rice, plantain, and coleslaw. (15 USD) I also got a bottle of tamarind juice. (2.50 USD) Both were very good, but I thought the kabob was overpriced (for street food in Belize).

Yasir is an interesting guy. He lives in Edmonton and owns a wellness center (yoga, massage, nutrition, etc.). After lunch he was joining some locals for a poker game! I’m glad we were able to meet up.

Later in the day I got a hankering for some ice cream (shocking!). The shop I visited previously wasn’t open, but they had a sign up referring customers to their sister company, Nico’s. My flavors are Baileys (awesome!) and soursop (a local fruit). 4 USD. Yummmm.
After all of my eating today, I really wasn’t planning on much for dinner, but did stop here on the way back to the Airbnb for…
…a couple ham & cheese rolls. 1.50 USD each. Hit the spot!

Friday, April 14 – transit from Caye Caulker to Placencia

I’m back on the ferry to Belize City this morning. I’ll then fly from the municipal airport to Placencia, a coastal town to the south.

The crowded departure area in Caye Caulker
The type of boat we’ll be using for today’s trip.
Full capacity. In fact, some of the later arrivals to the terminal who had no advance booking were turned away.

The ferry ride took an hour and then I had a 10 minute ride to the airport (7.50 USD).

Travel Note: On more than a few occasions during this trip I’ve encountered taxi drivers who were unable to provide change for my larger denomination bills (and I’m not talking 100 dollar size here). So annoying! Just another reason why I despise taxi drivers, and utilize Uber/Lyft whenever possible!

The Tropic Air Arrivals/Departures Building. I had a 2 hour wait here, but that was fine; I just relaxed and did some reading. There were no security checks here prior to boarding the plane. Interesting. (and boarding took place 5 minutes before departure!)
Our plane for the trip.
The plane had space for 11 passengers. There were 6 of us onboard, including the pilot.
A couple views from the flight…

We made a stop in Dangriga on the way to Placencia. In total the trip took 45 minutes. I purchased a round trip ticket that will take me to the Belize City International airport on the 18th; the cost was 276 USD.

My taxi ride from the Tropic Air office in Placencia to my hotel took 10 minutes and cost 10 USD. (thankfully I had the exact change!)

I’m staying at the Miramar Suites
Full kitchen.
4 nights @ 154 USD/night

When I booked this hotel, I chose the cheapest option (of course!), which was a garden view room. Even though it was the lowest cost, it was rather large, with 2 bathrooms. Well, when I arrived for check-in I was asked if I wouldn’t mind switching to a smaller, oceanfront room, as a group of 3 people preferred the larger suite. Yes, please!

My patio.
View from the patio.
My room is on the ground floor, center.
And there’s a pool!

Just like in Montego Bay, immediately after check-in I got into my swimsuit and hit the pool! After sufficient chillin’ time, I made a grocery run and that was pretty much it for the day.

Travel Note: I’ve been reading about the flooding in south Florida, and the closing of the Fort Lauderdale airport. A sad situation, and relatable, since I was just there.

Saturday, April 15 – Placencia

What do I usually do on my first day in a new location? That’s right…roam!

The Placencia Police & Fire Stations
Seems like I should stop here, right? Looks a little dodgy though!
I ended up stopping here for lunch.
The view from my table.
Rum Punch. 4 USD. Nice & Strong, and a great price!
Tropical Wave Smoothie (mango, banana, pineapple, coconut). 5 USD. Good price; tasted great!
Grilled Fish Sandwich. 11 USD. Rather mediocre, and seemed overpriced for Belize.
There’s this nice walkway in Placencia that parallels the beach, with shops, inns, and cafes. It took me all the way back to my hotel.
I spent the rest of the day poolside and lounging on my Patio. A good day!

Sunday, April 16 – Placencia

I booked a tour for today. It will include a boat ride through some mangroves and the Caribbean Sea to Monkey River Village, followed by a hike in search of monkeys. Let’s go!

Departing the dock.
These are lobster traps, in storage because the season ended in February.
Proboscis Bats
Ashore and ready to start the hike.
Doyle, our guide (and boat operator).
We have a sighting!
Howler Monkeys
And a crocodile too!
with zoom…
We’re now making our way back to Monkey River Village.
Time for a late lunch.
Baked whitefish, rice & beans, and coleslaw.

This was a fun tour! There were 8 of us in the group, it lasted 5 hours, and cost 107 USD. I spent the rest of the day on my patio and poolside. Of course!

JE 119

Belize City to Caye Caulker

Sunday, April 9 – Belize City

Good Morning! Breakfast included Sorrel Juice and homemade Johnny Cakes. Good stuff!

As I was on my way to Belize, contemplating my one full day in Belize City, it finally dawned on me that that day will be Easter Sunday. Well, that was kind of stupid planning! Again! Anyway, I’ll make the best of it and take a walk around the city (it’s what I do…)

The walk from the B&B to the far eastern tip of the city should take about an hour.

The Panamanian Embassy is across the street from the B&B.
And the waterfront is a block away from the B&B.
My walk is going to take me mainly along the waterfront. This is the Ramada Inn.
There is a nice walking/biking path along the water.
Baron Bliss Lighthouse, erected in 1885 on the former site of a Spanish fortress which was nearly destroyed after the Battle of St. George’s Caye in September 1798. (Note really sure if it should be called a Lighthouse though!)
View from the Swing Bridge.
It’s kind of hard to see, but the blue-shirted guy in the boat is waving at me to take a picture of him. So I did! Funny!
The Supreme Court Building.
The Government House (ca. 1814) was first the residence of the Governor of British Honduras and later the residence of the Governor General, the Queen’s representative in Belize. It is now a museum.
The Cathedral Church of St. John the Baptist was constructed from 1812 to 1820 with bricks that had been used as ballast aboard ships. It was the first church to be built in the colony of British Honduras.
The church is located across the street from the Government House Museum.
Belize Civic Centre

The fact that my walkabout occurred on Easter Sunday turned out to be a good thing. The city was deserted! The only place that I would have liked to have visited was the Government House Museum.

Fuel Price Check (open on Easter!): 12.32 BZD/gallon; the easy math converts that to 6.16 USD/gallon.

I returned to the B&B in the early afternoon and relaxed in the Jacuzzi. I followed that with some journal work, and a return to the Friendship Restaurant for some dumplings (thank you for being open on Easter!).

The day turned out better than I expected!

Monday, April 10 – transit from Belize City to Caye Caulker

I met some interesting people at breakfast today: a couple from Belgium who have been to Uganda to see the gorillas; a gentleman from Pakistan who now lives in Washington, D.C. and works for the world bank, which has resulted in his visiting over 100 countries; and an entrepreneur from Canada who, like me, will be traveling to Caye Caulker today (on a different schedule though) – we will likely meet up there later in the week.

I have an early afternoon departure from Belize City to Caye Caulker via a water taxi/ferry. My taxi ride to the ferry terminal took 15 minutes and cost 10 USD.

Ferry Terminal
It turns out I had a “stupid, but lucky” moment when I scheduled this portion of my trip. This is the hectic scene at the baggage claim here in Belize City, for the passengers arriving from the islands (including Caye Caulker). I learned that the long Easter weekend (Good Friday and Easter Monday are holidays here) is a popular time for the locals to travel to the islands. I dodged the crowded island bullet by waiting until today to depart!
Our boat to Caye Caulker will be the green one (where arrival passengers are now exiting). The larger ferry will be going to Ambergris Caye (more about that later).
On our way! The ride took 40 minutes and cost 43 USD for a round trip (I’ll be returning on the 14th).
Caye Caulker ferry “terminal” dock.
Baggage claim

Caye Caulker (pronounced “key corker”) is a small island, measuring roughly 5 miles by 1 mile. Along with Ambergris Caye, they are the most popular islands to visit in Belize. One is known for its luxury resorts, excellent (and expensive) restaurants, and a bustling nightlife. The other is smaller and more rustic, attracting travelers seeking a relaxed Caribbean vibe. Based on the island I chose, I’m sure you can guess which is which!

There are no automobiles on Caye Caulker, only golf carts, bicycles, and feet (walking!). The walk to my Airbnb took 10 minutes.

I’m staying at a place called the Gumbo Limbo. I booked it through Airbnb, but it’s available through their own website and other travel booking sites as well.

The lounge area and entrance to my studio apartment.
4 nights @ 98 USD/night
There are other cabins on the property
And a bar!
Bikes available for guests to use. Yes please!

After getting settled in, I took a short walk around the area.

The Gumbo Limbo is located a block away from the waterfront.
High Street Caye Caulker!
Oh Oh! I’ve spotted an ice cream shop!
One scoop Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip, one scoop Belizian Fudge (not what I thought, but the vendor described the flavor to me before I chose it – it’s cinnamon & caramel), all in a homemade waffle cone (4 USD). Awesome!

Tuesday, April 11 – Caye Caulker

My Airbnb host recommended a tour operator to use for a snorkeling excursion. I stopped by their shop yesterday to book a spot for today.

The snorkeling tour is scheduled to last 6 1/2 hours and will take us to three different spots: Coral Gardens, Shark Ray Alley, and Hol Chan Marine Reserve. The cost of the tour was 100 USD, and included equipment, drinks, lunch, and rum punch!

What will be on view in Coral Gardens is self-explanatory. The same goes for Shark Ray Alley, except to point out that the nurse sharks we will be swimming with are harmless. And Hol Chan Marine Reserve covers approximately 4,400 acres of coral reefs, seagrass beds, and mangrove forest. Hol Chan is Mayan for “little channel”.

(I don’t have a waterproof camera, so sadly the only pictures I have to post are from what I took onboard. Sorry!)

Our snorkeling catamaran. There were 15 passengers and 3 crew members in our group.
A beautiful, calm day for sailing and snorkeling! That’s Sam & Sophie, who I’ll be hanging out with later.
Guess where we are now? We’ll be jumping in to join them imminently!
Lunch included chicken breast, rice, pasta salad, vegetables, and fruit slices. Very good!
The snorkeling is done, time for a rum punch!
Under sail during our leisurely return to Caye Caulker.
Round 2!

This was a fun day! The snorkeling was excellent. Among other things, we saw beautiful coral, parrot fish, barracuda, tarpon, eels, rays, and of course, the nurse sharks. The duration of the snorkeling stops was just right, and each was followed by a slow-paced sail to the next location.

The only issue some of us had was the fact that in order to attract the sharks, they were fed from the stern of the boat. Not sure if that is the best long-term plan for the ecosystem, and ultimately I guess we (the passengers) are culpable by booking and paying for the tour. A complicated issue.

I enjoyed meeting the other snorkelers, and upon returning to Caye Caulker a few of us got together for some more rum punch! (only 4 USD per drink)

A rare Tim sighting in the journal! Joining me (l-r) are Sam, Sophie, Katie, and Tush. They hail from the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand. We plan on meeting up again tomorrow too.