Category: 2026 S. Pacific / Asia

Wednesday, April 8 – Chiang Mai

I mentioned previously that the Thai New Year takes place next week. Well, when I was going out for dinner tonight I noticed some decorations were beginning to appear…

This is in the lobby of my apartment complex…

…and this is at the entrance to the hotel next door, The Shangri-La.

I’m back for potstickers and a smoothie for dinner! However, you may notice that the smoothie looks a little different? So, on the tour yesterday I got to talking with the woman from Germany about smoothies (I’m obsessed!), and she suggested I try a dragon fruit / passion fruit combo. Not bad!

Thursday, April 9 – Chiang Mai

As my time winds down here in Chiang Mai, I’ve booked one final day tour.

The tour’s itinerary included:

• Mae Kampong Waterfall
• Rabiang View Mae Kampong
• Mae Kampong Village
• The Giant Chiangmai Café

The meeting point for the tour was along the northeast edge of the Old City at 9am. It was about a 50 minute walk from my apartment.

It turns out there were only 3 of us on the tour; me and a couple from Essex, UK. We were transported via a nice Toyota Highlander by our driver/guide, Tong.

Much of the 90-minute ride to our first stop, the Mae Kampong Waterfall, was through Chiang Mai’s mountains.

This is not the most impressive waterfall in the region…

…but it has a total of seven tiers…

…which can be reached via a narrow path, leading into the jungle along the stream.

This was a fun little out-and-back hike into the forest.

Just down the road from the waterfall is the Rabiang View Mae Kampong Cafe.

It’s a rustic coffee shop…

…with a large open terrace that is about 100 meters above the Mae Kampong Village…

…and offers some nice views of the village and jungle.

We are now making our way down to the Mae Kampong Village.

It sits at an elevation of 1,300 meters (4,300 feet) in the mountains surrounding Chiang Mai.

Mae Kampong has around 500 inhabitants. The first farmers moved to this area from Doi Saket about 200 years ago. Those early settlers came here to farm the land and grow tea. In recent years, the community has also been cultivating coffee.

During the last 20 years, the introduction of community based tourism has transformed this little village into a popular destination. It has a choice of homestays, coffee shops, restaurants, souvenir stores, and nearby hiking. The village acts as a co-operative, so revenues benefit the entire community.

The “Instagram Effect” has also had an impact on the popularity of Mae Kampong. According to our guide, during the high season of November through February this little village becomes extremely crowded. Happy I’m here now!

This is a cute little village, I can’t deny it!

The three of us on the tour were free to walk around and explore on our own, with no time limits. I liked that. The village is so small that we couldn’t help running into each other (and our guide) periodically.

In the center section of this building were some students working on art projects that would later be offered for sale.

Lunch was not included as part of the tour, but there were plenty of dining options to choose from. I went with the stand on the left.

I chose:

• Khai Pam (on the left); a Northern Thai egg dish cooked in a banana leaf bowl. It features beaten eggs grilled over charcoal in a small banana leaf container, creating a fluffy, smoky, oil-free omelet enhanced with herbs, chilies, and minced pork.
• Sai Ua (next to the Khai Pam); a stick of aromatic Northern Thai sausages, frequently called “Chiang Mai Sausage“. It’s a grilled pork sausage known for its intense herbs and spices.

Both were very good! Total cost: 45 THB (1.50 USD).

And I followed up the eggs and sausages with a strawberry waffle cone from this little shop…

…not quite on the level of a UW Babcock cone, but the price was right: 20 THB (65 cents)!

And yes, there is a temple in the village. You’re shocked, I know!

This is Wat Mae Kampong.

(Probably surprised by the name too!)

Fuel Price Check: We’re all familiar with self-service gas stations. Well, this is literally that; as this fuel dispenser kiosk has no attendant! And as you would guess, being up here in the mountains, and in a little tourist village to boot, the gas is not cheap: 59.3 THB/liter = 6.97 USD/gallon.

Our last stop of the day was to a unique cafe about a half-hour drive away.

The Giant Chiang Mai Cafe

The cafe is part of a giant tree house, with guest rooms in the lower level.

(And that tree is amazing!)

Access was via a rope bridge.

A little unstable!

The rope bridge from a different perspective.

One of the guest rooms can be seen below the cafe seating area.

Nice View!

We hung out here for a while and then made our way back to Chiang Mai. I was dropped off at our meeting point at 3:30pm.

This was a fun (semi-private!) tour! Troy and Tanya from Essex were great company, as was our guide, Tong. (Troy, Tanya, Tong & Tim. Yikes!) The cost of the tour was 52 USD.

Saturday, April 11 – Chiang Mai

I left my laptop on overnight, and when I went to wake it up this morning I was faced with the dreaded BLUE SCREEN! Noooooooooo!!!

Thankfully though, it wasn’t announcing a hard drive failure. It had to do with BitLocker Security software that was installed on my laptop (which I didn’t even realize!). According to Gemini, this BitLocker blue recovery screen typically appears after a BIOS update, hardware change, or security setting shift. And I’m pretty sure that was the case here, as I had an icon indicator last night that a Windows update was available to be installed. An installation attempt must have been made overnight, and that caused the security lock.

The blue screen verbiage stated that I needed a numerical recovery key (48 digits!) to regain access to my computer. Okay…..

The blue screen also listed a Microsoft web address that would provide me with that recovery key, with one caveat: I needed to log in to my Microsoft account. That could be a problem, because I keep all of my login information in a spreadsheet. That is located on my laptop. Which I don’t have access to. Mmmmm…

Fortunately, to access my Microsoft account all I needed was my login name, which I knew, and the Microsoft Authenticator App, which I have on my iPhone. I used my iPad to reach the website.

(Before performing any of the recovery procedures, I used my iPad to ask Gemini what the heck was going on. That was helpful, and reassuring.)

And after inputting the 48 digit code, I was back in good graces with my laptop. Disaster averted!

(Was there a lesson learned here? Probably that I should manually install an update when it’s available, rather than leaving the computer on and idle (with programs open), and expecting that the update will not occur until I provide the go ahead. Oh, and have multiple devices on hand to access the internet!)

While taking what will probably be my final walk around the Old City wall (for this trip anyway), I came across another pre-New Year’s decoration…

Travel Note: Chiang Mai is a very pedestrian-friendly city. That kind of surprised me. Vehicles (and scooters) are respectful when folks are crossing at intersections, which has definitely not been my experience in other cities. It’s kind of ironic too, because many people here have told me that the locals hate to walk. The only people you see walking in Chiang Mai are tourists!

There’s a Hard Rock Cafe located just down the road from me.

So, of course, I had to get a pin!

Tuesday, April 7 – Chiang Mai

I interrupted my leisurely agenda again by booking a full-day tour.

Highlights of the day included:

• Tour the King Bhumibol & Queen Sirikit Pagodas
• Hike the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail
• Visit the Highest Spot in Thailand
• Explore Wachirathan Waterfall

The day started early, with a 7:30am pickup at my apartment complex. After a 2 hour drive, which included one rest stop, we arrived at our first destination…

The Royal Twin Pagodas were built by the Royal Thai Air Force to commemorate the 60th birthdays of King Bhumibol (1987) and Queen Sirikit (1992). This is the Queen’s Pagoda.

The beautiful gardens at the base of the King’s Pagoda.

Approaching Phra Mahathat Naphaphonphumisiri: Dedicated to Queen Sirikit, meaning “The Great Holy Relics Pagoda of the Strength of the Land and the Beauty of the Air”.

The exterior features these mosaic murals, made from tile, and…

…wood.

A view across the grounds to the King’s Pagoda.

Phra Mahathat Naphamethanidon: Dedicated to King Bhumibol, translating to “The Great Holy Relics Pagoda by which the Earth and Sky are Combined”.

The interior features these stone murals.

More murals surrounding the pagoda’s exterior.

Statue of King Bhumibol. The peak of the Queen’s Pagoda is in the background.

The Royal Twin Pagodas are located at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,900 feet). Above the cloud line!

For seven decades, King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit were the beloved “Father and Mother” of the nation. The King passed away in 2016, the Queen just last year. Since taking the throne, their son, King Vajiralongkorn, has faced a very different reception. Points of contention include:

• Unlike his father, who rarely left Thailand, Vajiralongkorn spends the vast majority of his time in Germany.
• Shortly after taking power, he transferred the Crown Property Bureau (estimated at $40–$60 billion) into his personal name, making him the wealthiest monarch in the world.
• His complicated marital history and the public elevation of a “Royal Noble Consort” alongside Queen Suthida contrasts sharply with the monogamous, “family values” image of his father.

Our guide spoke with reverence when discussing King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit. She was basically moot though on the subject of King Vajiralongkorn. This is due to the Lèse-majesté laws, which can lead to 15 years in prison for insulting the king, thereby making open disdain dangerous.

Our next stop was the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail.

Nice cool temperatures up here at altitude! (21C=70F)

The trail is a 2.8km (1.7mile) loop, with a 600 foot elevation gain.

On the left is our guide, Mo, explaining the hike. On the right is a local Hmong who was a trail-specific guide. (It is a requirement that a Hmong guide accompany all hikers on the trail)

It is a pretty, well-marked trail.

We are now at the peak elevation of the trail – 2,300 meters (7,500 feet).

Unfortunately, we’re experiencing the hazy conditions due to the agricultural burning. Speaking of which…

A view of the Royal Twin Pagodas from the trail.

This was a fun, and at times, strenuous hike. The only drawback was the fact that the pace was pretty fast. I like to take my time and experience the surroundings. The perils of being part of a group (there were 9 of us). You probably noticed that my photos generally don’t include any of the other hikers in our group. That’s because me and a woman from Czechia kind of hung at the back, with one of the guides, keeping our own pace. I’m not sure the others in the group appreciated waiting for us at the rest stops! Oh well…

The geography of our group was:

• Couple from Germany
• Woman from Czechia
• Woman from China
• Two friends from New York City
• Man from Germany
• Man from Miami

We next made a quick visit within Doi Inthanon National Park.

The main purpose of the visit was to stand on the highest spot in Thailand. 2,565 meters = 8,415 feet.

(Kind of anticlimactic!)

We followed the park visit with a break for lunch, which was included in the tour. It was very good. And plentiful!

It seems like an aspect of every tour is the obligatory visit to local shops and vendors to check out their wares and make a purchase. Not my favorite thing, but I somehow endure it!

Today’s visit was to a Hmong hill-tribe village which is (apparently) known for their coffee plantations. Here we were offered samples of their coffee and teas.

I sampled each of the teas. They were…interesting!

Also for sale were a variety of candles. I liked the containers!

Our tour concluded with a visit to Wachirathan Waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park.

A pretty waterfall within the park.

Working my way downstream…

…where I spotted this guy!

I have now hiked up for a side view of the falls.

Note the observation point in the lower right.

Well, this was a fun day! And a full one too! I was picked up at 7:30am, and dropped off at 5:30pm. The cost of the tour was 62 USD.

Travel Note: As usual I was wearing my Wisconsin baseball cap today, and it was recognized! One of the guys from NYC (a PhD student) asked me about it. Turns out his mom is from Madison; she grew up in Shorewood and went to West High School. She was 10 years behind me though. Small world! He grew up in northern NY state, but has been to Madison several times to visit his grandparents.

Sunday, April 5 – Chiang Mai

I’m back! You’ve missed me, I sure…

(Doubtful!)

This past week in Chiang Mai has been very relaxing. I’ve kind of gotten into a daily routine…

• Morning at the pool – swimming and lounging
• Minimal breakfast
• Take a walk around the circumference of the Old Town (where the wall used to be)
• Minimal lunch
• Get a massage (I haven’t done this every day, but at 8 USD for a 1-hour traditional Thai massage, it’s been hard to resist!)
• Dinner of potstickers and a smoothie (Again, not every day; other times I would just fix something simple at my apartment)

Chiang Mai has gotten warmer since I was here last month, with highs in the mid-90s. And we’ve been impacted by the agricultural burning that takes place in this region in the spring. The result is hazy sky conditions, like I experienced in Laos. Both situations have somewhat affected my outdoor regimen. I should mention though that the differential between the daily high and low temperatures here remains wide, with mornings in the low 70s, which is very comfortable.

(Those of you living in the northern U.S. may remember similar hazy conditions last summer that were caused by the Canadian wildfires)

I was getting a little restless though, so checked in with Google Gemini to see if there were any events taking place here this week. It turns out I’m going to just miss the Songkran Festival (Thai New Year), that begins on April 13th, but there are other activities occurring this week in a buildup to the festival.

One event Gemini mentioned was the Shan (Tai Yai) Buddhist ordination ceremony where young boys are dressed as “Jeweled Princes” in elaborate costumes, makeup, and gold. Today was to be The Grand Procession, where the “princes” are carried on the shoulders of older male relatives through the streets with music and dancing. Gemini provided me with the name of the best temple for witnessing the ceremony, and a time schedule. Perfect!

So, at the designated time (9am) I was at the designated place (Wat Pa Pao), and…nothing. Mmmmm…

The temple was basically deserted. I wasn’t too upset though; tried to remain positive and took advantage of the solitude to get a few pictures of the interesting complex.

The entrance to Wat Pa Pao.

It is located just outside the northeast corner of the Old Town wall.

Wat Pa Pao, which takes its name from a grove of pao trees in which the temple was built, was established in 1883 and was the first temple built in Chiang Mai to serve the Shan community, many of whom had migrated from the Shan States in northeastern Burma to work in the teak logging industry, and were without a place to practice their form of Buddhist worship.

The hazy conditions are evident in this photo.

After leaving Wat Pa Pao, I continued my walk around the Old Town wall, and made a stop at one more temple on my way back to the apartment…

A pedestrian bridge used for crossing the moat.

Wat Rajamontean, located right alongside the moat.

The giant Buddha dates to 2010.

The temple’s origins trace back several centuries; however, it has undergone many restorations.

Noticed these blooming water lilies in the moat as I walked back to the apartment.

As I mentioned earlier, I wasn’t all that disappointed that I missed the ordination ceremony. I have a feeling that whenever and wherever it actually took place, the crowds would have been a little overwhelming. I actually checked back with Gemini when I returned to the apartment. Basically saying “What the … Gemini!”. It sincerely apologized and stated that it was “working on being more cautious with specific times for local festivals that don’t have a fixed “official” clock”.

So, a lesson learned for me: AI-generated information should be confirmed via at least one other source!

(Just common sense, really. Something I’m obviously lacking!)

Monday, April 6 – Chiang Mai

I’m back in school this morning!

I’m taking the same cooking class that I experienced here back on March 2nd. I’ve selected a completely different menu this time though, thanks to the school offering multiple options for each of the five courses that we will be preparing.

As like last time, we started out by purchasing our ingredients at a local market.

This is our instructor, Aek, explaining the various produce items that we will be using in the class today.

I only took a couple pictures at the market today; more would just be repetitive from March 2nd.

The cooking area at the school.

And the dining area.

This documents the various courses for today’s meal, and what the participants selected for each course. There were 7 of us taking the class this morning (max capacity is 8). The geographic breakdown was:

• A couple from Toronto
• A woman from Shanghai
• A woman from Ukraine
• A woman from Los Angeles
• A man from Paris

Very cosmopolitan!

Gathering the ingredients for the first course: Pad Ka Prao.

Pad Ka Prao is a spicy stir-fry made with meat (chicken, in this case), holy basil, garlic, onion and chili peppers.

(Did you know that green chili peppers are hotter (spicier) than red? I always thought the opposite!)

Very good! (That’s a plum mango joining the stir-fry and rice on the plate)

Course Two: Hot & Sour Thick Prawns Soup

The soup is thickened using coconut milk.

Course Three: Fried Spring Rolls. Here the stuffing is being prepared.

Rolled and ready for cooking!

The soup and rolls were excellent! (I actually only ate one of the rolls; brought the others back to the apartment in a takeaway box)

Course Four: Panaeng Curry. It is a rich, creamy, and slightly sweet Thai curry known for its nutty flavor from peanuts, which are ground into the paste, distinguishing it from red curry.

Panaeng Curry features a coconut milk base.

(I wasn’t able to take any pictures during the cooking process)

Here the coconut cream sauce is being prepared for our dessert: Mango Sticky Rice.

Finishing off the class with Panaeng Curry and Mango Sticky Rice. Perfect!

Another fun (& filling) class! I’m happy I experienced it once again. And, thanks to the recent strength of the U.S. dollar, it was even less expensive this time around: $26 v. $27. Haha!

Wednesday, March 25 – Vientiane

I was still feeling a little under the weather this morning. I skipped breakfast, but was doing well enough to take on some Journal work by midday.

(I will say, I’m in a nice hotel room while I recover, so there’s that!)

By evening I was hungry and ready to get out for a bite. I ventured back to the grocery store where I picked up the chicken sub a few days ago.

On the way to the store I passed by the Night Food Market.

I went with the potstickers. Shocking, I know! 45k LAK = 2.15 USD.

They were good, but I think I prefer the Chiang Mai version.

On the way back to the hotel, this ice cream shop caught my eye.

Chocolate Oreo Sundae please! 18k LAK = 85 cents.

Yep!

Thursday, March 26 – Vientiane

There are two major landmarks in Vientiane that I have not yet visited. My objective is to check them off the list today.

Have I somehow been transported to the Champs-Élysées?

Is that the Arc de Triomphe?

Hahaha. Nope! This is Patuxai.

Patuxai, meaning Victory Gate or Gate of Triumph, is a war monument built between 1957 and 1968. It was dedicated to those who fought in World War II and the Independence War from France in 1949.

Access to the top was via a 30k fee (1.50 USD). Here I’m looking southwest, back towards the avenue from which I arrived. Way down at the very end is the Presidential Palace.

The view to the northeast.

To the southeast is the Laos Cabinet Building.

And to the northwest is the Prime Minister’s Office.

About a 20 minute walk from Patuxai is Pha That Luang.

Pha That Luang is a gold-covered stupa that was first erected in the 3rd century. It has undergone many reconstructions since, the most recent being in the 1930s. It is generally regarded as the most important national monument in Laos, as well as a national symbol.

The area around the stupa is gated, to keep out traffic. The entrance fee to the compound is 30k LAK.

The walls surrounding the stupa are roughly 280 feet long on each side and contain ancient Lao and Khmer sculptures.

This is a statue of King Jayavarman VII, which dates to the late 12th or early 13th century.

Surrounding the stupa, and part of the Pha That Luang complex, are a few temples. This is Wat That Luang Neua.

Ho Thammasapha, a Buddhist Conference Hall

I’m ready for a break (from the heat!)! This ice cream stand has my attention.

Coconut ice cream bar. Delicious! 20k LAK (1 USD).

(And a cleaver method incorporated to catch the melting ice cream!)

This reclining Buddha is part of Wat That Luang Tai.

The walk back to the hotel was going to take about an hour. Normally that wouldn’t be a problem. But, I was too hot, too tired, and maybe still a little ill (or so I told myself!). And, conveniently, there happened to be a tuk tuk looking for a fare as I walked out of the complex.

I’m on it! 50k LAK fare (2.35 USD).

Today’s drink in the hotel lobby was Butterfly Pea Juice (same as what was served on the Luang Prabang sunset cruise).

I wasn’t very hungry for dinner, so just stepped out to the night market to get a pineapple/passion fruit smoothie. This is part of the night market just outside of my hotel, along the river.

(The lights in the sky aren’t UFOs; just reflections in my camera lens!)

There is also a little amusement park nearby.

Friday, March 27 – Vientiane

This is my last full day in Vientiane, and I’m going to keep it kind of low key. I do have one place I want to check out though…

…when reading through the menu at Khaiphaen in Luang Prabang, I noticed that they have a sister restaurant here in Vientiane. And it’s only a 20 minute walk from my hotel. Let’s go!

The one drawback is that Makphet is only open until 3pm. So, I had a light breakfast and a late lunch today!

The menu is a little different than Khaiphaen. I chose the Grilled Fish with Coconut and Lime Dressing.

And, yes, a smoothie!

Makphet is a little more rustic than Khaiphaen.

It wasn’t very busy. Only one other couple was here during my meal.

It was very good! Total cost: 105k LAK = 5 USD.

I’d say I prefer Khaiphaen; mainly because the restaurant is nicer…and they have the Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie!

As I walked back to the hotel, I passed by the grocery store (D * MART) where I’ve had a couple dinners previously (chicken sub and potstickers).

Laos Facts for Travelers

• Vehicles operate on the right side of the road (like in the US). Laos drives on the right because it was once a protectorate of the French Colonial Empire (as part of French Indochina). While Thailand drives on the left primarily because of its close historical and economic ties with the British Empire.
• The official and primary language spoken in Laos is Lao. French and English are also used in business/tourism. Most of the people I interacted with here in Luang Prang and Vientiane spoke at least a little English.
• Just like in Thailand, Laos uses a hybrid electrical outlet that can accommodate 4 different types of plugs, including the U.S. style. However, only 2-prong U.S. plugs fit, so an adapter is required for 3-prong devices.
• The tap water here should not be consumed by foreigners. Both of my hotels provided complimentary drinking water.

Travel Note: I’ve heard this country’s name pronounced both Laos and Lao. According to the locals I’ve spoken with, Laos is correct. Lao is used when describing an aspect of the country, such as Lao people, Lao cuisine, etc.

I’ve accumulated a few more examples since my last banknote picture.

Saturday, March 28 – Transit from Vientiane to Chiang Mai

I’m flying back to Chiang Mai this afternoon. I know what you’re thinking: Why did you go from Chiang Mai to Laos, and then go back again? The short answer? Because I’m an idiot!

The long answer? Because I didn’t plan this very well. After booking my trip to Thailand, I decided I wanted to follow that by going to Laos, so I booked that too. Well, then I got to thinking about where I would go next. Japan was on my mind, though due to various reasons, spending the remaining 5 weeks of my trip there seemed a little long (partly due to cost).

So I then started looking at places from which it would be convenient (cost & schedule) to fly to Tokyo. Manila came up. Ho Chi Minh City too. I considered them, but I’ve already been to both, and decided to pass on a return at this time. Surprisingly though, Chiang Mai was also a place that provided a relatively efficient method of Tokyo transit. And I obviously like it there. And it’s inexpensive (which you know I like!). So, there you go…Chiang Mai, here I come!

I had a 2pm flight on Thai Airways, arriving in Chiang Mai via a connection in Bangkok.

The Vientiane airport isn’t very big.

(My taxi ride from the hotel cost 120k LAK, less than 6 USD)

The international check-in area.

(Although I had a one-way ticket to Thailand, the Thai Airways ticket agent did not ask me whether I had a return or onward ticket. That’s likely because I had to submit an online Thailand Arrival Card prior to boarding the plane. Included in the required information for the submittal was my Thailand departure information.)

The departure lounge.

The flight to Bangkok took one hour, was on an A320 (3×3 seating), and was full. And we even go a snack on the flight (chicken sandwich)!

I booked this trip knowing that I’d have to go through immigration in Bangkok before continuing on to Chiang Mai. I wasn’t sure how ugly that would be, so included a 4 hour layover. Well, it turns out the Bangkok airport has a separate immigration processing area for those who are transferring to a domestic connection. And there was zero wait time! Oh well, I had some reading to do…

And just like the flight to Bangkok, the flight to Chiang Mai took one hour, was on an A320, was full, and provided us with a snack (chicken wrap).

(The cost of the one-way ticket was 245 USD. A little pricey, but like the flight from Thailand to Laos, I think there are departure and/or arrival taxes included in the fare. I should point out that I did have low-cost airline options (AirAsia, Vietjet, etc.), but chose to go with a more traditional carrier.)

After a 150 THB (5 USD) taxi fare, I arrived at my Chiang Mai accommodation.

And I’m back at the Astra Condos, booked through Airbnb.

This time I’m in building A though, with the better pool.

I’ll be here for 15 nights.

38 USD/night.

The final 3 weeks of my trip will be in Japan, and I know it’s going to be rather hectic. My plan for here in Chiang Mai is therefore kind of laid back. As a result, I’ll probably only be posting Journal Entries when I do something worth reading about, and I’m not sure how often that will be.

(And Worth Reading About does not include my having potstickers and a pineapple/orange smoothie for dinner!)

Sunday, March 22 – Vientiane

My plans for today include some Journal work and rest. But first, a leisurely breakfast…

And the offerings here at the Amari Vientiane are significant!

I like this honey distribution method!

After breakfast, I spent a little time checking out the pool area…

That’s the Mekong River in the background.

Travel Note: Vientiane is the capital city of Laos, with a population of around 800 thousand. A little different than Luang Prabang!

By early evening I was getting a little hungry, so made my way out to explore the neighborhood. I came across this grocery store that also offered prepared meals.

This chicken sub looked pretty good! 59k LAK = 2.75 USD.

I ordered it as a takeaway and brought the sandwich back to the hotel. Tasty!

Monday, March 23 – Vientiane

After a rather lazy morning, I was finally motivated to get out and do some exploring!

A daytime view of the hotel.

Just down the road from the hotel is…

…the Statue of Chao Anouvong, who led the Lao rebellion (1826–28) against Siam (now Thailand) as the last monarch of the Kingdom of Vientiane.

Passed by this cute street art.

Spotted an interesting sign outside of this hospital…

…so, I guess they have hospitals where smoking is allowed?

The Vientiane City Pillar (Hor Lak Muang)

It was constructed in 2012 on the remnants of an ancient city pillar dating back to the 4th or 5th century.

Street vendors

I’m now approaching Wat Si Muang, known as the guardian temple of the city.

From this view, the sim looks rather ordinary…

…but a closer look reveals some intricate architectural details.

There is a lot to take in here!

I enjoyed exploring Wat Si Muang, but when these two large tour buses pulled up, I knew it was time for me to move on!

My next stop was Ho Phrakeo. The 30k LAK entrance fee equals 1.50 USD.

Ho Phrakeo was first built in 1565 to house the Emerald Buddha (now in Thailand), but has been rebuilt several times.

The last restoration took place in 1993.

The grounds are pretty.

The interior of the temple now houses a museum of religious art.

I should mention that it is very hot here, with high temperatures in the mid-90s. As a result, my time spent outside roaming around will not be as extensive as I’m used to!

I passed by this (literally!) middle-of-the-road stupa on my way back to the hotel. Further investigation (at a later time) may be necessary!

After returning to the hotel, I had a little pool time and then was done for the day. The heat kind of wore me down, and breakfast must have filled me up, because I wasn’t very hungry!

Tuesday, March 24 – Vientiane

More exploring to do today!

The Presidential Palace (ca. 1986)

Time for another Fuel Price Check: 40,540 LAK/liter = 7.15 USD/gallon. Wow! Much higher than Luang Prabang. However, the price of oil has been spiking recently, so that may be the reason for the big difference.

Next stop is Wat Sisaket. The entrance fee was 30k LAK.

Wat Si Saket was built in 1818 in a contemporary style of Buddhist architecture at the time, with a surrounding terrace and an ornate five-tiered roof.

The armies of Siam that invaded Vientiane in 1827 used the compound as their headquarters and lodging place. It may be the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane. The French colonial government restored Wat Si Saket in 1924 and again in 1930.

Photography was not allowed inside.

(I even got scolded for taking this picture! Ugly American!)

A square, roofed walkway surrounds the central sim.

The “Wall of 6,000 Buddhas“. The cloisters are known for housing over 6,800 Buddha statues. These range from the 16th to 19th centuries and are made of wood, stone, bronze, and ceramic.

I am now just outside of the sim compound.

Royal Funeral Carriage.

Approaching Wat That Khao.

It’s a little run down here, but…

…this immense Reclining Buddha made the visit worthwhile!

On my walk back to the hotel, I happened by this Hard Rock Cafe. I didn’t realize they had one here. Not the most impressive exterior, right? Regardless, I decided to stop in…

…and bought this pin. My second (purchased) souvenir on the trip!

Now in the hotel lobby, I’m taking advantage of their complimentary Pandan Water (Nam Bai Toey) to cool down a bit. The drink is an infusion of pandan leaves in water, sweetened lightly with sugar.

A little bit of sweat on the hat, but not as severe as the South Pacific!

(And no, I have not received any Wisconsin shoutouts while in Vientiane. Still early though!)

Travel Note: Well, it was bound to happen. I’m feeling a little under the weather this afternoon. Nothing major, just a little achy and tired. Hopefully it’s a 24-hour thing. First illness of the trip. I’m in for the night!

Thursday, March 19 – Luang Prabang

I’ve booked a food tour for this evening. It’s actually via the same company from which I took the tour in Chiang Mai.

I don’t have anything else planned for the day. That means a relaxing breakfast followed by some pool time (today’s drink: Mango smoothie!). Perfect.

The tour started by meeting at the Khaiphaen Restaurant at 4pm. What a coincidence, my favorite dining spot!

Our first course was Khaiphaen, the restaurant’s namesake. It is made from Mekong River weed, harvested in Northern Laos. It consists of dried green algae sheets, seasoned with sesame seeds and garlic. Also included were puffed rice crackers, accompanied by spicy tomato and Hmong mushroom dip.

A great start to the tour!

Across the street from the restaurant is Wat Choum Khong Sourin Tharame. The interior of the temple is usually closed to the public, but this evening’s tour included access, plus an audience with a monk.

Once inside, we sat down and had a nice 15 minute conversation with the young monk. He began his service when he was 12 and is now 16 years old. He told us a little about his background and then we spent the rest of the time asking each other questions. His English was halting, but our tour guide, Toun, was able to translate. A wonderful experience!

As we sat and talked, the monk placed this bracelet on our wrists. Our guide briefly explained its significance, but I did a little additional research (via Gemini)…

In Laotian culture, receiving a string bracelet, traditionally called Sai Sin, is a deeply meaningful gesture.

Here is a breakdown of what the specific elements of the bracelet represent:

1. The Orange String

The color orange is synonymous with the saffron robes worn by monks in the Theravada Buddhist tradition.

• Protection: The string acts as a symbolic “fence” or shield for your spirit.
• Connection: It represents the transfer of “Boon” (merit) and blessings from the monk to you.
• Binding the Soul: In Lao belief, humans have 32 spirits or “Kwan.” These can occasionally wander off due to stress or travel, causing illness or bad luck. The string is meant to “bind” those spirits back to your body.

2. The Three White Beads

While the string itself is the primary vessel for the blessing, the three beads often represent the Triple Gem (Tiratana), which is the foundation of Buddhist faith:

• The Buddha: The teacher and the potential for enlightenment.
• The Dharma: The teachings and the path of truth.
• The Sangha: The community of practitioners and monks.

3. The Custom of Wearing It

To respect the blessing, there are a few traditional “unwritten rules” to follow:

• The Three-Day Rule: It is traditionally encouraged to keep the string on for at least three days to ensure the blessing “sticks.”
• Do Not Cut It: When you are ready to remove it, it is customary to untie the knot rather than cutting the string with scissors, as cutting is sometimes seen as “severing” the luck or blessing.
• The Wrist: Usually, the right wrist is for receiving blessings/luck, while the left is for protection, though this can vary by region. (mine is on the right; strictly a random choice by me!)

A Quick Tip: If the string falls off naturally, it’s considered a good sign – it means the blessing has been fulfilled or the “bad luck” it was catching has been released.

Our next stop was the Mekong Sunset View Restaurant, aka…

…the Obama Coconut.

The backstory (again via Gemini): On September 7, 2016, Obama became the first sitting U.S. President to visit Laos. After touring the Wat Xieng Thong temple, he took an unscheduled “off-the-record” stroll through a neighborhood overlooking the Mekong River. Dressed casually in chinos and Ray-Ban Wayfarers, Obama stopped at a modest stall and watched as a local woman hacked open a large green coconut with a machete, offering for him to drink.

(Back to Me): As the Mekong Sunset View Restaurant is not at all close to Wat Xieng Thong, it’s likely that this is not the place where he sipped from the coconut, but the restaurant has appropriated it anyway. Pretty funny!

The view from the restaurant, including Wat Chomphet in the background.

And our course here was Stuffed Lemongrass. I’m familiar with this! Very nice! But I liked mine better! (kidding!)

A short walk along the river brought us to our next stop.

Taking their seats in the upper left is our guide, Toun, and the other participant on the tour, Katiana. She’s from Germany, in her 40s, recently quit her banking job, sold her furniture, and moved out of her apartment in Cologne. She is now in the middle of an 8 month Southeast Asia trip. Impressive!

Here we had smoky grilled Mekong fish, with assorted fresh vegetables, noodles, and sauces.

Mmmm, mmmm, good!

Another beautiful sunset on the river!

We next took a stroll away from the river to a strip of roadside vendors.

Here sticky rice is being roasted over hot coals.

I put some sauce on mine, which might have been a mistake, because it was a little hot (spicy)!

Fortunately, right next door was this stand providing fresh-squeezed sugarcane juice. You heard me right!

Here the vendor is placing the cane in the industrial sized squeezer! We were told that this woman has been serving up sugarcane juice for the past three decades! Well done!

Tasty! And it hit the spot, providing relief to my spicy mouth!

After walking a few blocks, we arrived at our next tasting spot.

Here we tried Khao Piak Sen, a rice noodle soup with pork bone broth. This was very good!

We’ve now made our way to the food stalls near the night market. I’ve walked through here previously, and included some pictures in an earlier Entry.

Being prepared is Khao Nom Kok (Coconut Rice Pancakes).

These were great! They’re cooked in a way that makes them crispy on the outside, yet with a soft, custardy filling.

Here we’re purchasing some beef jerky.

The meat is marinated and then sun-dried. It was a little tough (chewy), but not bad!

Papaya Salad. A favorite!

Sai Oua Sausage; it is stuffed with fresh herbs and spices, including lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, cilantro, and chili. The German and Wisconsinite approved of this sausage!

Our last stop was a short tuk tuk ride away…

…to this dessert stand that has been around since 1965!

Nam Vaanh; consisting of coconut milk, palm sugar, tapioca pearls, and tropical fruits. It was okay, but not a favorite.

Well, what a night! I’m stuffed (I need to quit saying that!). I’m a little disappointed though that there were no insects on tonight’s menu. NOT!

The tour lasted about 4 hours and cost 45 USD.

The fact that there were only two of us on the tour was kind of good, and kind of bad. The good? It was rather like a private tour. The bad? It’s fun having conversations with other travelers (from around the world).

Friday, March 20 – Luang Prabang

My last full day in Luang Prabang. I’ve enjoyed it here; will miss this small town with the beautiful architecture, good food, and (fairly) quiet atmosphere.

My breakfast was minimal, still full from last night. Ugh!

I’m rather tired today, so I’m just going to check out a couple more places on the western outskirts, and less visited, part of town.

The entrance to Wat That Luang Rasamahavihane.

Founded in 1548 by King Setthathirath, this current sim was built in 1818 during King Manthaturat’s reign.

The main stupa, Phra Sitham Hai Sokarath.

Following massive damage in 1900, the temple was rebuilt and has undergone subsequent renovations, with the most recent work completed in 2024.

A few blocks away from the temple is this monument to Kaysone Phomvihane. He was the first leader of the Communist Lao People’s Revolutionary Party, from 1955 until his death in 1992.

Next door is Wat Pha Bat Tai, also known as Chua Phat Tich.

It serves as a place of worship for the Vietnamese community in Luang Prabang.

There’s a nice view of the Mekong River behind the temple.

I got back to the hotel by early afternoon and took a nap, followed by some pool time (today’s drink: Lemonade).

Of course my last dinner in Luang Prabang was at Khaiphaen.

Since I just prepared Laap in the cooking class, I decided to try it here. (Mine was with buffalo meat, tonight it was chicken)

Yes, another smoothie!

Another great meal! (124k LAK = 6 USD)

Of my three different visits here, I’d say my favorite choice was the Mekong River Fish with Coconut Laska (besides the smoothie, obviously!).

Travel Note: I just realized that, although I’ve been out and about many evenings in Luang Prabang, I’ve received no mosquito bites. Without the use of a repellent. Very nice!

Saturday, March 21 – transit from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, Laos

Check-out today was at 11:30am, but my flight wasn’t until 4:40pm, so…

…I just hung out at the hotel doing some Journal work.

(While enjoying a complimentary mango smoothie. Thank you!)

I booked a tuk tuk for the 15 minute ride to the airport at a cost of 120k LAK (6 USD).

For comparison, a taxi would have been 200k, and my arrival ride in the shared minivan from the airport to the hotel was 100k.

My ride…

The Luang Prabang airport is rather small.

Check-In Area

Departure Lounge

As with my flight from Chiang Mai, I’m on Lao Airlines this afternoon. This is the same type of plane that we used on the Chiang Mai flight, with 2×2 seating.

The cost of the one-way, 40 minute flight was 56 USD. It was 2/3 full, and sadly, no snacks were offered this afternoon!

Travel Note: There is train service available from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. I would normally prefer that to flying on such a short journey. However, I read (via The Man in Seat 61) that the train security checks are rather extreme, with items routinely being confiscated from luggage. Pass.

Upon arrival in Vientiane, I was quoted a 150k LAK taxi fare for the 15 minute ride to my hotel. As an alternate, I checked the Loca ride-hailing app used in Laos. That quoted 94k. Great, let’s go for it! The pickup was in a nice Volkswagen ID.4 EV, and the trip went smoothly. Well, when I received the invoice, they ended up billing me 125k, with add-ons for airport insurance and a couple other things. Still (a little) cheaper than the taxi, but rather lame!

I’m staying at the Amari Ventiane Hotel.

Chinese New Year display

95 USD/night, including breakfast

I’ll be here for 7 nights.

Just outside the hotel is a night market that operates every day of the week. After getting settled in, I decided to check it out. I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, so was hoping to find something…

…and here we go! A smoothie stand! I went with my new favorite: Pineapple/Passion Fruit (sorry Pineapple/Orange!). It was great! And so was the cost: 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

Sunday, March 15 – Luang Prabang

A rather uneventful (and relaxing!) day. I did some Journal catch-up (a big post), minor trip planning (most is complete), and had a little pool time, with a complimentary poolside glass of watermelon juice. Many thanks!

Travel Note: Following my comments concerning Chinese tourists in my last JE, I received a rebuttal. Chuck has traveled to China, is a great friend, and is someone whose opinion I respect. In a short note, he just wanted to let me know that “The Chinese are wonderful people”. I have no doubt that they are, and I even commented on the nice interaction I had with the small group I encountered while visiting the temples across the river.

So, I just want to reiterate: My comments are a generalization of the Chinese tourists I’ve interacted with while visiting many countries across several years. Now, it’s probably true that I tend to remember the negative encounters more clearly than the positive, which is too bad.

While revisiting my impression of Chinese tourists, the term “Ugly American” came to mind. You’ve probably heard it being used; shorthand for the stereotypical, entitled U.S. tourist, representing:

• Arrogance and cultural insensitivity
• The assumption that everyone speaks English
• Loud, demanding behavior while traveling abroad
• A “know-it-all” attitude regarding foreign policy

I try to avoid these behaviors while traveling, but I’m confident that at some (several) point(s) along the way I’ve been accused of being an Ugly American. Do I like the generalization? Of course not. I should therefore be more careful when making similar generalizations of others. Thanks Chuck, for providing a voice of reason.

Monday, March 16 – Luang Prabang

I’m going back to school today! In the form of (another) cooking class.

The local Tamarind Restaurant also offers a cooking school. The class starts there at 9am. It’s a 20 minute walk from my hotel.

Tamarind Restaurant

Welcome drink of cinnamon tea.

Like my cooking class in Chiang Mai, we started out with a visit to the local market…

This is our instructor, Sit, describing some of the local produce.

Unlike in Chiang Mai, we didn’t buy anything at the market; it was just a tour.

The seafood section.

The butcher.

Following a half hour drive, we arrived at the cooking school, located outside the town of Luang Prabang.

The school is in a beautiful, tranquil setting…

…with its own little produce garden.

The dining area.

The preparation of each course began with instructions, demonstrations, and the disbursement of ingredients.

Jeow is a dip/salsa that we ultimately ate with sticky rice.

Cooking the ingredients over the fire.

The finished course – eggplant version.

(Unfortunately, while busy preparing the various courses, I wasn’t always able to get pictures along each step of the process. Like in this case, where I have no shots of the Jeow prep)

The sticky rice steam pots.

Fluffing the rice (in as much as sticky rice can be fluffed!)

Result! Very good!

Our next course was…

…Mok Pa, a traditional Lao steamed fish recipe.

The fish and herb mixture is wrapped in banana leaves in preparation for steaming.

Here Sit demonstrates how to wrap the banana leaf prior to steaming.

My completed banana leaf wrap! (I did receive some help though!)

Next up, we have…

…Stuffed Lemongrass, in which a stalk of lemongrass is stuffed with a ground chicken and herb filling, and then deep fried.

Sit demonstrating how to prepare the lemongrass stalk for the stuffing.

Cutting the stalk and then getting the stuffing inside was a little tricky. I had some help!

Cooking the Lemongrass stalks.

Our last course was…

…Laap is a spicy, tangy meat salad, made with minced meat (buffalo, in this case) and tossed with fresh herbs.

Browning the meat.

Ready to eat!

Speaking of eating…it’s that time!

Including the Mok Pa reveal.

Wait! What about dessert??

Calm down, it’s covered.

Preparing Purple Sticky Rice with Coconut Sauce.

Boiling indicates it’s ready!

Yummmm!

And we even received a small cookbook following the class!

This was a fun day! We started at 9am, and returned to the restaurant a little after 2pm. The cost of the class was 40 USD, and there were five of us participating:

• Woman from Ohio
• Woman from Paris
• Two friends from Singapore

And in a close call, my favorite course was the Stuffed Lemongrass.

So, how does this compare to the class I took in Chiang Mai? My thoughts:

• Chiang Mai class was less expensive (of course this would be the first thing I list!)
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class offered options for each course
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class purchased ingredients from the market
• I liked that the Chiang Mai class ate each course after it was prepared, rather than eating everything all at once, which we did today
• I felt like the Chiang Mai class was a little more hands-on for the students
• The setting of today’s class was beautiful
• Instructors in both classes were very good
• Meals in both classes were very good

A slight preference to Chiang Mai…

Okay, I am stuffed! (even after skipping breakfast). Time to head back to the hotel for a rest.

I did eventually get motivated and went for a swim in the pool (Today’s complimentary drink: Lemonade), but that was about it for the day. Dinner was not necessary!

Tuesday, March 17 – Luang Prabang

I have more exploring of Luang Prabang to do today…

A little bit of a line waiting to get gas this morning. I’ve been told that there are limited supplies here, due to the situation in Iran.

Fuel Price Check: 32,980 LAK/liter = 5.83 USD/gallon. Wow!

A view from town of Mount Phousi / Wat Chomsi stupa.

Wat Pak Khan Khammungkhun

“The Temple at the Mouth of the Nam Khan River” was founded in 1737. However, it has undergone numerous renovations, most recently in 2013.

This is the approach to the Wat Xieng Thong complex.

Wat Xieng Thong translates to “Temple of the Golden City“. It was built between 1559 and 1560 by King Setthathirath, and is one of the most important of the Lao monasteries.

The entrance fee is 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

A Sim is the central shrine hall of a Laotian temple. Wat Xieng Thong’s Sim is composed of nine cascading roofs and is decorated by gold stenciling

A number of restorations have taken place to maintain the temple; the most recent in 2013.

Tree of Life Mosaic, added in the 1960s

I like this picture.

I was waiting to get a shot with nobody going in, or coming out, of the Sim. It was taking a while, and then this woman came by, and it seemed perfect.

Entrance to the Sim.

The Royal Funerary Carriage House

The Funeral Carriage, which stands nearly 40 feet high.

The house and the carriage are ca. 1960.

The Red Chapel…

…named for its red-stucco exterior decorated with colorful, intricate glass mosaics.

My next stop was the Wat Sensoukharam complex.

The temple was originally built in 1718 during the reign of King Kitsarath, and was restored to its current state in 1957. Also known as Wat Sen, it is believed to have been built using 100,000 stones from the Mekong River, giving the temple its name, roughly translating to “Temple of 100,000 Treasures”.

The Chapel of the Standing Buddha

Also within the complex is this shrine to…a VW Bug!?!

A little ways down the road is this cool 1930s era Citroen…

…used as a promotional item for a neighboring restaurant.

I am now outside the National Museum (former Royal Palace). It is midday, when the museum is closed for a couple hours. Bad timing…

…but some good timing too, because this little photo shoot happened to be taking place.

This is Haw Pha Bang, which sits on the southeastern corner of the National Museum grounds. The building is relatively new, complected in 2006, and was designed specifically to house the Phra Bang, the most sacred Buddha image in Laos and the namesake of the city.

I took this picture from an elevated patio, that also happened to have a shaded area with some bench seating. A perfect place for a break! (It is definitely warmer today – with a high in the upper 80s)

While seated here a young woman came by to ask me a few tourist-related questions. Turns out it was part of a university course she was taking. A fun diversion!

Okay, there’s a pool calling my name…(today’s drink: watermelon juice)

Tonight, I finally had the opportunity to get back to the Khaiphean for dinner.

This evening I splurged a little and went with Red Chicken Curry, Steamed Rice, and…

…a Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie (of course!). Total Cost: 144k LAK (6.75 USD).

Did not disappoint!

Following dinner, I had another “Good Timing” moment. I made the two block walk from the restaurant down to the river just in time to catch the sunset as I stood at the ferry landing…

On my return to the hotel, I walked back by the the National Museum, with the night market now in full swing…

That’s Haw Pha Bang in the background.

Wednesday, March 18 – Luang Prabang

My mornings here have generally been rather leisurely, and today was no exception.

I followed breakfast with some Journal work (a big Entry), and, of course, some pool time! (today’s drink: watermelon juice)

My complimentary sunset cruise has been booked for this evening. I’m to be down at the river by 4:30pm for check-in and boarding…

Nice cruise boat!

We were served a complimentary glass of Butterfly Pea Juice with nuts and banana chips. There were other drinks and snacks available at an additional cost.

(Never had Butterfly Pea Juice before, it was very good! It’s derived from flowers.)

Recognize this temple? It’s Wat Chomphet, which I visited a few days ago.

(the one with the 123 step accent)

There were around 20 of us onboard for the two hour cruise.

(Good thing it wasn’t a three-hour tour; if that was the case, I might have passed!)

Riverfront restaurants.

This was a fun little cruise. I would say though that last night’s sunset was a little nicer, but that’s not the fault of the cruise operator!

Travel Note: While on the cruise, I had a conversation with a woman from New York City who, with her husband, was on a private multi-day tour with a local Laotian guide. It was so timely and coincidental that I wanted to pass it along.

She had mentioned how their guide was steering them away from the few tourist-heavy spots here in Luang Prabang, like Phousi Hill / Wat Chom Si. In that vein, and without any prompting from me, she said that her guide had a “severe antagonism” towards the Chinese. I just thought it was interesting that a local guide, who relies on tourism to support himself, displays that type of attitude towards a particular segment of his client base.

As I made my way to the hotel, I was looking for a place to get a quick bite to eat…

…and I remembered this dumpling place across the street from my hotel.

I went with the recommended Cabbage & Pork Dumplings (15 count – I was told they were small!), and…

…Lemon Soda. Total Cost: 80 LAK (3.75 USD).

Very good!

Thursday, March 12 – transit from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang, Laos

I have a 3pm flight today, and checkout from my apartment is 11am. I booked a taxi for noon, which will get me to the airport a little earlier than I need to be, but that’s okay; I could either hangout at the apartment complex or the airport. I chose the latter.

The 15 minute ride to the airport cost 200 THB (6.50 USD). I probably could have saved a couple bucks using the ride-hailing app Grab that I talked about previously, but I’ve been told that they’re rather unreliable – arriving late and canceling pickups.

Chiang Mai International Airport

Apologies for the lame picture – I would have had to walk a ways to get a full (and decent) shot of the building’s exterior.

It’s a fairly big airport, with separate International and Domestic terminals.

The International Check-in area…well, for most airlines.

The check-in area for the airline I’m flying today, Lao Airways, is kind of off in a little separate area by itself (exclusivity, or also-ran??).

The departure area.

The one hour flight to Luang Prabang was in a rather small plane with 2×2 seating. It was probably 90% full. Even with such a short flight, we were served a snack of some sweet bread (maybe banana?). It was good! The cost of the one-way flight was 160 USD. Seems a little pricey, right? But I think there are some departure and/or arrival taxes included in the price.

Travel Note: A visa is required for U.S. citizens traveling to Laos. It can be obtained on arrival or in advance via an online portal. I went with the advance method. The cost was 52 USD, and the turnover time was 3 days.

At check-in in Chiang Mai, the Lao Airways agent did ask to see a copy of my visa, and proof of my onward ticket out of Laos. Upon arrival at Luang Prabang International Airport, I presented my visa to the immigration agent, and he asked me nothing.

(BTW, I packed the new hair clippers in my carry-on backpack! No issues.)

I was hoping to get a picture of our plane after landing, but it was raining, so not very convenient (especially with an umbrella in one hand, we deplaned outside). Sorry!

I used an ATM at the airport to get some cash and then booked a shared minivan for a ride to my hotel. The cost was 100,000 Lao Kip (4.75 USD). I was drop off number two on a 15 minute ride. Utilizing a private taxi would have tripled the cost. No way!

I’m staying at the Luang Prabang Pearl Hotel.

99 USD/night, including breakfast

I’m here for 9 nights.

The (rainy) view from my balcony

I’m (kind of) ashamed to admit that I was complicit in a little scam initiated by the hotel owner, with Booking.com being the victim. I use that website quite a bit for my hotel reservations, as was the case in this instance. The booking was non-refundable, but I was to make payment directly to the hotel upon arrival. Well, the hotel’s owner asked me to cancel the reservation with Booking.com and then pay him directly at the same rate. In exchange, he would provide me with a room upgrade and a complimentary Mekong River Sunset Cruise.

I was concerned about being stuck with paying for the guaranteed booking, and then being charged again for the direct payment to the hotel. However, I have the Booking.com app on my phone, so utilized that to submit a cancellation request. Then, in real time, the hotel owner received the request and immediately approved it, stating any cancellation cost would be waived. That was followed by my receiving a confirmation of the no-cost cancellation via the app. Done deal.

With the rainy weather, and my lack of initiative, I decided to just stay in for the night!

Lao Kip (1 USD = 21,300 LAK)

Friday, March 13 – Luang Prabang

Friday the 13th, again! It seems like we just had one last month!

The hotel entrance

The breakfast area (early, pre-crowd)

There’s a nice selection at breakfast. Very Asian though, which is fine.

Also included was the choice of a freshly made juice or smoothie. I went with the mango smoothie this morning (shocking, I know!).

Today’s plan will follow my usual arrival routine – just roam around and get familiar with the area. Fortunately it has stopped raining, and the temperatures here are a little cooler than Chiang Mai (low in 60s, high in 80s).

A Luang Prabang Roundabout!

The Switzerland Consulate

Luang Prabang was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, being recognized for blending Lao architecture, European colonial buildings, and over 30 Buddhist temples.

I like the Colonial European architecture.

Luang Prabang was a key part of the French Protectorate of Laos from 1893 to 1953, serving as the royal residence within French Indochina.

Luang Prabang is situated on the Mekong River.

This ferry provides transport across the river.

I can see a ferry ride in my future!

I’m now alongside the Nam Khan River, which runs through Luang Prabang and feeds into the Mekong River.

I returned to the hotel mid-afternoon for a rest. I had skipped lunch though, so was getting a little hungry by 5pm. I did a restaurant search via Google Maps, and found one with very good reviews that was a 20 minute walk away.

Khaiphaen Restaurant

I like their mission…

“Khaiphaen vocational training restaurant brings you classic Lao dishes alongside creative international fare, nestled in a beautiful location in Luang Prabang. Powered by Friends-International we guide young people in training as they build brighter futures, acquiring the skills they need for stable employment. So, every bite you enjoy with us at Khaiphaen brings a delicious dining experience and supports a powerful social cause!” (taken from their website)

It was pretty quiet at the time of my late-afternoon arrival. I’m glad I got here when I did though, because it started to fill up by the time I left (they also take reservations).

I chose the Mekong River Fish and Coconut Laksa with Rice Noodles and Banana Blossoms (65k LAK = 3 USD)…

…and a Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie (45k LAK = 2 USD).

And a bonus…they take credit cards!

They were both very good! The smoothie was especially amazing! I’ll definitely be back to Khaiphaen.

So how does this compare to my favorite Chiang Mai dinner combo – Dumplings and a Pineapple Orange Smoothie?

• Price: Chiang Mai slightly less (50 cents)
• Credit Card: Yes to both
• Taste: They’re both amazing!

I’m calling it a tie! But Khaiphaen has a few days to change my mind!

Following dinner, I took a walk through the night market.

Say cheese!

Wow! These pastries look good! (okay, I bought a couple to take back to the hotel…)

A fun day! With 19k steps (that should provide a little bump to my pathetic average!)

Saturday, March 14 – Luang Prabang

A couple more exterior views of the hotel…

The arrow points to my balcony.

I chose a banana smoothie this morning. And yes, those are dumplings (potstickers)!

I’m going to head across the Mekong today, to check out some lesser-visited temples.

Travel Note: While walking around yesterday I noticed many Chinese tour groups in town. Mainly congregating around the more popular places to see and visit. And after talking with the hotel owner, he confirmed that Luang Prabang is a popular destination for Chinese tourists. This is especially so since the opening of a high-speed rail service from China to Laos in late 2021. Now, I haven’t been to China, but I have had interactions with Chinese tourists many times throughout my travels. I’ve found that they tend to be loud, pushy, and are not necessarily concerned with the personal space or consideration of others. That’s just their culture. I’m not saying it’s wrong. What I am saying is that I would prefer to avoid them, when possible. So, that’s why I’m taking the road (or ferry in this case) less traveled today!

The ferry carries motorbikes,…

…vehicles, and pedestrians.

The fair for a motorbike is 8k LAK. For a pedestrian it is 3k LAK. For a local that is. The fair for a pedestrian who also happens to be a foreigner is 10k LAK (50 cents). What?!? Over triple the cost! Hahaha; for 50 cents, I think it’s more than reasonable.

Approaching the landing…

The images on the northeastern part of the map are the temples I hope to visit today.

This is the pathway from the ferry landing to the temples. That’s a truck approaching in the distance. It’s a nice path, just a little narrow!

It’s a one mile walk to the first temple.

From this point forward on the path is the access to the various temples. The cost to continue on is 30K LAK (1.50 USD).

The 123 steps up to Wat Chomphet. Fortunately the guard dog didn’t attack me!

At the top of the staircase are two stupas…

…that contain the remains of King Ounkham (reigned from 1895-1904) and his mother, Princess Khammoun.

Wat Chomphet was built in 1888 by the Siamese military commander Chaophraya Surasakmontri, while he was stationed in Luang Prabang to suppress the Chinese Haw, who had stormed the town the previous year.

The site provides some nice views of the town of Luang Prabang, and the Mekong River. This is the view looking west.

Looking across the river to Luang Prabang.

Notice the haziness? Sadly, it is caused by agricultural burning for land clearing, which has been intensified recently by commercial farming demand. This burning takes place between February and April every year.

Now looking to the east. The mouth of the Nam Khan River, as it enters the Mekong, can be seen in the middle-left of the picture.

I am now approaching Wat Long Khoune.

Also known as the “Monastery of the Happy,” it is an 18th Century temple which was formerly a royal retreat, and served as a meditation space for kings before their coronations.

Note the warriors guarding the entrance.

Beautiful murals inside.

The monk approved my taking his picture.

The monks’ living quarters. There was no entry allowed beyond this point.

Travel Note: What is the saying, there are exceptions to every rule? Well, following my recent generalization of Chinese tourists, I want to relay an alternate experience…

On the ferry ride with me were a group of three Asians, also on foot. We walked up from the landing at the same time, not conversing, and then parted ways when I started making my way down the path towards the temples.

As I was visiting Wat Long Khoune, they approached in a tuk tuk. We were the only tourists on the site, and acknowledged each other when they arrived. We continued to walk the area separately until we eventually met at the temple. We tried talking to each other but were unsuccessful until one in the group produced a voice-recognition translator on their phone. It turns out they were from China, and we were able to have a nice conversation for a few minutes. They even wanted to have their picture taken with me. As they were getting ready to move on to the next temple, they asked if I wanted to ride along. I thanked them, but declined, telling them that I preferred to walk. I saw them once more as their tuk tuk passed me later going in the opposite direction back towards the ferry landing. I very nice encounter!

Exceptions…

Wat Than Sakkarin was built in 1902 during the reign of King Khamsouk Sakkarin.

Its original function was as a place of riverside meditation for the King. It was later converted into a temple.

A view from the path.

What are you looking at??

Wat ​Had Siew dates to the early 18th Century. As can be seen, it is now undergoing restoration.

Note the bamboo scaffolding.

Today’s visit to these remote temples was right in my wheelhouse: off-the-beaten path, devoid of tourists. The only site where I encountered others was Wat Long Khoune, where I talked with my new Chinese friends.

As I made my way back to the ferry landing, I did pass by a few other tourists heading in the opposite direction.

Back on the ferry.

The hill across the river in Luang Prabang is Mount Phousi, a popular destination. It is crowned by the Wat Chom Si stupa, which is hard to identify in this picture.

I walked by the entrance to the hill a of couple times yesterday; in each instance it was mobbed with people and a line of minivans.

Now approaching the ferry landing.

I pass by the entrance to Mount Phousi on my way back to the hotel. If there are no crowds, I may go for it…

And the pathway to Mount Phousi is clear! More steps though. Ugh!

Part way up the hill is Wat Tham Phousi.

It is known for its unique setting amongst the rocks.

(Note the stairway to the right)

The stairway leads to this cave temple, which houses an ancient Buddha statue styled in the Pha Kachai manner; one of the oldest of its kind.

To access the summit of Mount Phousi and Wat Chom Si required an entrance fee of 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

Reclining Buddha

More steps…

Two out of three are impressed! Me too!

Inside Wat Chom Si. It dates to 1804, during the reign of King Anourouth.

The view from inside the temple.

The former Royal Palace (ca. 1904), now the The National Museum.

Approaching the gilded stupa at the peak of Mount Phousi.

Looking south at the Nam Khan River.

Looking west at the Mekong River.

Making my way back down to street level.

Man! Another fun day. With a lot of walking and a LOT of step climbing!

No lunch again, and I’m getting a little hungry. Maybe I can stop somewhere on my way back to the hotel?

It’s smoothie time!

Mango was recommended. Yes! (35k LAK = 1.65 USD)

Yummmm!

(I’m going to have to find a fix for my smoothie addiction when I get back to Madison! Maybe I’ll just make my own??)

I got back to the hotel around 3:30pm, and immediately hit the pool. And while I was poolside, the hotel owner graciously brought me a pineapple smoothie. Thank you!

I really wanted to get back to Khaiphaen for dinner, but it’s been a long day. And after these two smoothies, I actually wasn’t very hungry!

Sunday, March 8 – Chiang Mai

Sadly, another rather low-key day. I did some Journal work and researched the procedure for reserving and purchasing Japanese train tickets online. My first trip is slated for April 14 on the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train), and the one month booking window will open on March 14.

Thailand Facts for Travelers

• Vehicles operate on the left side of the road (like in the UK)
• The national language of Thailand is Thai. English is a key second language though. Everyone I’ve interacted with here in Chiang Mai and Bangkok spoke English.
• Thailand uses a hybrid electrical outlet that can accommodate 4 different types of plugs, including the U.S. style. However, only 2-prong U.S. plugs fit, so an adapter is required for 3-prong devices.
• The tap water here should not be consumed by foreigners.

Monday, March 9 – Chiang Mai

I’m motivated to get out and about today!

I was out the door (relatively) early, 9am, to take a walk around the circumference of where the Old City Wall once stood. The accompanying moat still exists.

Chiang Mai’s Old City was established in 1296 and measures roughly 1 mile square. The location of my apartment is pinned in the lower right.

I began in the southeast corner and followed a counterclockwise route…

I’m back at Katam Corner, where I ended on my Saturday walkabout.

Katam translates to “a trap to catch animals”. Two freshwater channels intersected at this corner where the water collected in a pond that was rich with fish. Fish Traps (Katam) were used to catch the bounty.

This is Tha Phae Gate. Its origin dates to 1296; however restoration work took place in the 1980s.

I’ve now reached the northeast corner, Si Phum.

Chang Phuak (White Elephant) Gate is the northern entrance to the Old City. In this area is the major evening street market that our food tour group visited, which includes the “Cowboy Hat Lady”.

Typically all that remains of the Old City wall are the corners and gates, but here some of the wall has also been preserved.

Hua Lin Corner. This translates to head (hua) of an aqueduct (lin).

Saun Dok Gate; the west side entrance to the Old City.

Ku Ruang Corner. This translates to a stupa-like structure (ku) containing the ashes of a person named Ruang.

Saen Rung Gate. The name evolved from “Suan Prung” (or sometimes Suan Ra), which can relate to “garden” or, according to some interpretations, “thrusting a spear,” referencing its grim past as a place where criminals were executed.

And now I’m back to Katam Corner.

This was a fun walk on a beautiful day!

As I trekked the circumference of the Old City, I made a diversion to a nearby temple…

The entrance to Wat Chiang Yuen.

First built in 1500s, the temple was abandoned during Burmese rule, and was reconstructed in 1794 by King Kawila.

The temple is known for its large chedi (stupa), which has a whitewashed square base.

An interesting and enjoyable diversion!

Okay, so I skipped breakfast, and am getting a little hungry. Where to?

I’m so predictable!

Tuesday, March 10 – Chiang Mai

Today I decided to focus on finalizing an Antarctica trip for next winter. And, I seriously spent most of the day on it! I mean, it is kind of an expensive proposition (for me, anyway), so I wanted to make sure I looked at all the possibilities.

I’m happy to say though that I did end up booking a cruise; although it wasn’t completed until after midnight! (mainly a result of having to deal with the time difference between Chiang Mai and the west coast of the U.S.)

I’m happy with the result. You know I love a deal (I’m cheap); and I was able to book a cabin (with a balcony) without paying a single supplement. Perfect!

(Have I peaked your interest for next year’s Journal?)

Sidenote: I read a news report that stated United Airlines has updated its contract of carriage to officially require that passengers use headphones/earphones while listening to audio or video on devices while onboard their flights. Effective February 27, 2026, refusal to comply may result in removal from the flight or a permanent ban. Hallelujah! This is one of my pet peeves. Hopefully other airlines will follow suit!

(And this rude behavior is not annoying just on flights, but in public spaces in general. Am I sounding like an old grouch? Sorry…)

Wednesday, March 11 – Chiang Mai

Well, I’m traveling to Laos tomorrow. After yesterday’s energy-draining day of research, today was casual Wednesday – Journal work, Laos prep, and …

…I mailed a birthday card to Maple.

Hopefully she’ll receive it by April 15th!

So, this being my last night in Chiang Mai, you know I had to go for some dumplings and a smoothie!

Have no fear though, because, Spoiler Alert!, I’ll be back here in Chiang Mai in a couple weeks…

(What?? I’ll explain my whole pathetic lack of proper trip planning story when I get back here following the visit to Laos)

Sidenote: Hard to believe it’s been 15 years…

Friday, March 6 – Chiang Mai

Okay, this is going to be one of those boring days for readers. Kind of a rest day, with some intermixed Journal work.

I did make it back to the mall for dinner though; for some dumplings and a smoothie, of course!

Saturday, March 7 – Chiang Mai

The laziness continues! I didn’t get out of bed until close to noon! Did some reading and watched some streaming. Useless, I know!

Sidenote: I just finished reading Destiny of the Republic by Candice Millard, about the assassination of President James Garfield. Very good. Although, it was published 15 years ago, so most of you have probably already heard of it! However, the Netflix limited series Death by Lightning was just released last fall, and is based on the book.

(While I’m on the subject, another great book by Candice Millard is The River of Doubt, the story of Theodore Roosevelt’s exploration of the Amazon. I read this during my 2019 winter escape to South America. Seemed appropriate.)

Okay, time to get my lazy backside out and about!

This afternoon I’m going to check out Wat Sri Suphan, aka The Silver Temple.

It’s a short 30 minute walk from my apartment.

For part of my journey, I chose to walk along the Mae Kha Canal.

I came close to regretting the choice of this route though; because a dog came running out after me, and nipping close at my legs. Damn! Again? Fortunately, no bites. Maybe I need to start carrying an anti-dog spray with me, if there is such a thing!

Before reaching The Silver Temple, I came across Wat Namtharam.

A little rundown, but still an interesting diversion.

Spotting this vintage Land Rover along the way was pretty cool!

The entrance to Wat Sri Suphan.

(I’m leaning to the right again; what the heck??)

The ticket cost is 50 THB (1.50 USD).

The entry pass.

Founded in the early 16th century, Wat Sri Suphan is one of Chiang Mai’s oldest temples. Though most of the original temple structure has been lost over time, it was recently restored utilizing local artisans.

The restoration of the temple began in 2004 and was completed in 2016. The craftspeople of the Wua Lai neighborhood, a district that has been renowned for its metalwork for over two centuries, collaborated on the restoration.

While aluminum comprises the majority of the cladding, silver is used to highlight the sacred elements.

Scenes from the life of Buddha, historic scenes representing the temple’s history, and scenes from mythology are all depicted in intricate, three-dimensional detail.

The metalwork is amazing; and really stands out in the sunlight.

The temple is situated in the Haiya district, the traditional silversmith area of the city, where workshops continue to operate.

This shop is open to the public, where you can create your own piece of metalwork.

Popular place!

I took a different route back to the apartment (bypassing the attack dog!).

In the background are the remains of a wall that once encircled the Old City of Chiang Mai.

This portion of the wall is called Katam Corner.

Travel Note: Today marks the halfway point of my trip. The time has generally gone by fast, probably because I’ve been on the move a fair amount. That being said, my time here in Chiang Mai has calmed things down a bit, which I think is a good thing.

Steps Update: Since we’re at the midpoint, let’s see how my steps are progressing: In a word, pathetic! I’m averaging 11k steps per day, well off last year’s World Record pace of 16.4k per day. Ugh!