Category: 2026 S. Pacific / Asia

Lists, Stats & Photos

Welcome to another Trip Summary! My lists and stats seem to keep expanding every year. Apologies for that; I’m kind of a geek! As always, feel free to scroll rapidly through all of this minutiae!

Below are the Lists from the trip. All are chronological, except for the ranking of the places visited.

Favorite Experiences

• Church Service on Wayasewa Island
• Riding the Bus in Samoa
• Samoan Friendliness/Helpfulness
• Fiji Airways In-Flight Service and On-Time Performance (at a price!)
• Chinese New Year in Singapore
• Chiang Mai Cooking Class (2x!)
• Chiang Mai Food Tour
• Chiang Mai Thai Massages
• Luang Prabang Cooking Class
• Luang Prabang Food Tour (incl Meeting with the young Monk)
• Hayabusa Shinkansen Gran Class
• Aomori Gyosai Center (Furukawa Market)
• Peak Sakura in Hirosaki
• Matsushima Bay/Zuigan-ji Temple
• Yamadera Temple Hike to Godaido Hall
• Wedding at Toshogu Shrine
• Lake Chuzenji Hike
• Tokyo Tuna Auction (with bonus of having lottery winner status!)
• Spending time with Karou in Tokyo

Least Favorite Experiences

• Unfriendly dogs in Tonga & Chiang Mai
• Tonga Postal Service (none of the mailed cards were delivered!)
• “Turtle Sanctuary” in Vanuatu
• Theft from Checked Bag at Port Vila Airport
• Litter (Trash) in Laos
• Agricultural Burning in Laos and Thailand
• Choosing the wrong day to visit Sendai Arahama Elementary School
• The lack of recognition afforded my (constantly worn) UW baseball cap

Favorite Accommodation

• Waya Lailai Eco Haven, Fiji (but 2 nights was just right)
• Sinalei Reef Resort, Samoa (but 2 nights was just right)
• Grand Pacific Hotel, Suva
• Volve Hotel, Bangkok
• Luang Prabang Pearl Hotel, Luang Prabang
• Amari Vientiane, Vientiane

Least Favorite Accommodation

• Fiji Gateway Hotel, Nadi Airport (served its purpose though)

Favorite Meals

• All Meals at Waya Lailai Eco Haven in Fiji
• Mango Smoothie in Tonga
• Sunset Dinners on my Balcony at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva
• Fish (Tuna) in Coconut Cream at the Beach Escape Resort in Nadi
• Breakfasts at the Volve Hotel in Bangkok
• Cooking Class in Chiang Mai (2x!)
• Food Tour in Chiang Mai
• Orange/Pineapple Smoothie in Chiang Mai
• Dumplings/Potstickers in Chiang Mai
• Breakfasts at Luang Prabang Pearl Hotel
• Khaiphaen Restaurant in Luang Prabang
• Cooking Class in Luang Prabang
• Food Tour in Luang Prabang
• Breakfasts at Amari Vientiane Hotel
• Nokkedon (Seafood Donburi) at Aomori Gyosai Center (Furukawa Market)
• Breakfasts at Sotetsu Fresa Inn Sendai
• Lunches & Tea with Karou in Tokyo

Ranking of Places Visited

1. Japan
   • Shinkansen Travel
   • Aomori City
     • Furukawa Market
     • Peak Sakura in Hirosaki
   • Sendai
     • Matsushima Bay
     • Zuigan-ji Temple
     • Godaido Temple Hike
   • Nikko
     • Wedding at Toshogu Shrine
     • Lake Chuzenji Hike
   • Tokyo
     • Tuna Auction
     • Karou Visit
     • Hokusai Museum Experiences (2x)
2. Samoa*
   • Very Friendly Locals
   • Cross Island Bus Ride
   • Sinalei Reef Resort
   • Interesting/Walkable Town Center
3. Thailand
   • Chiang Mai
     • Cooking Class (2x)
     • Food Tour
     • Thai Massages
     • Smoothie Shop
     • Dumpling Shop
     • Walkable / Walking-Friendly
     • Inexpensive
   • Bangkok
     • Jim Thompson House
     • Volve Hotel
4. Laos
   • Luang Prabang
     • Architecture
     • Food Tour (Monk Visit)
     • Cooking Class
     • Sunsets
     • Less Traveled Temple Trek (across the Mekong River)
   • Vientiane
     • Amari Hotel
5. Singapore
   • Chinese (Lunar) New Year Activities
   • Armenian Church/Street
   • Nice Harbor Views
   • Easy to get around
6. Fiji
   • Wayasewa Island
   • Convenient Public Transportation
   • Grand Pacific Hotel
   • Cross Island Bus Ride
7. Tonga
   • Mango Smoothies
   • Interesting/Walkable Town Center
   • Unfriendly Dog Encounter
   • Postcards & Greeting Card sent to the U.S. were never delivered!
8. Vanuatu
   • I think I had Island Burnout by the time I reached Vanuatu
   • “Turtle Sanctuary” in Vanuatu
   • Theft from Checked Bag in Port Vila

(* Samoa ranking caveat: Based on a short duration stay. It would be lower on the list if the time in-country was as long as the combined Thailand visits.)

Lies, Damned Lies, and Statistics _{(Mark Twain)}

Countries Visited

I traveled to 8 countries on this trip; 5 for the first time. I have now visited 99 countries. Below is a breakdown of visited countries by continent (and the % of countries I’ve been to on each continent):

• Africa: 9 (17%)
• Antarctica: 0 (0%) – more on this below
• Asia: 22 (49%)
• Europe: 35 (73%)
• North America: 19 (83%)
• Oceania: 6 (43%)
• South America: 8 (67%)

Countries Visited: Breakdown by Trip (excluding the United States)

• 2026 S. Pacific/Asia: 8 visited; 5 new; 0 territories
• 2025 London: 9 visited; 6 new; 1 territories
• 2024 London: 9 visited; 7 new; 0 territories
• 2023 Caribbean: 12 visited; 11 new; 2 territories
• 2022 Hawaii: 0 visited; 0 new; 0 territories
• 2020 Europe: 5 visited; 3 new; 0 territories
• 2020 South America: 2 visited; 1 new; 0 territories
• 2019 South America: 5 visited; 5 new; 1 territories

Trip Length

1. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia: 122 days
2. 2025 London: 109 days
3. 2024 London: 108 days
4. 2023 Caribbean: 100 days
5. 2019 South America: 77 days
6. 2022 Hawaii: 66 days (cut short due to high costs!)
7. 2020 Europe: 33 days
8. 2020 South America: 30 days (cut short due to Covid)

Total Trip Cost

1. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia
2. 2023 Caribbean
3. 2022 Hawaii
4. 2025 London
5. 2019 South America
6. 2024 London
7. 2020 Europe
8. 2020 South America

Trip Cost per Day

1. 2022 Hawaii (23% higher than second place S. America; what a surprise!)
2. 2019 South America (skewed higher by Galapagos Islands and Easter Island)
3. 2023 Caribbean
4. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia (used frequent flyer miles for flights from/to U.S.)
5. 2025 London (used frequent flyer miles for transatlantic flights)
6. 2020 South America
7. 2020 Europe (skewed lower due to the use of frequent flyer miles for the transatlantic flights)
8. 2024 London (lower due to a) the use of frequent flyer miles for the transatlantic flights, b) visiting Balkan countries in the winter)

Total Steps

1. 2025 London: 1.79 million (818 miles)
2. 2024 London: 1.68 million
3. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia: 1.50 million (1,499,864 to be exact; 687 miles)
4. 2023 Caribbean: 1.32 million
5. 2019 South America: 1.09 million
6. 2022 Hawaii: 1.07 million
7. 2020 Europe: 550 thousand
8. 2020 South America: 440 thousand

Steps per Day

1. 2025 London: 16.4 thousand
2. 2022 Hawaii: 16.2 thousand
3. 2020 Europe: 16.1 thousand
4. 2024 London: 15.5 thousand
5. 2020 South America: 14.5 thousand
6. 2019 South America: 14.4 thousand
7. 2023 Caribbean: 13.2 thousand (pathetic!)
8. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia: 12.3 thousand (what’s a term for “worse than pathetic”?!?)

Extremes – Steps per Day

• Max: 26.2 thousand; Nikko Hike / transit to Tokyo
• Min: 2.1 thousand; Sinalei Reef Resort, Samoa

Planes, Trains, Ferries & Buses

• Planes: 19 flights totaling 28,709 miles (the circumference of Earth is 24,901 miles)
  • Longest: Dallas to Nadi, Fiji on 06 January (6,625 miles)
  • Shortest: Luang Prabang to Vientiane on 21 March (134 miles)
  • Average: 1,511 miles
  • Airlines Flown: 9
• Trains: 6 trips; Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and within Japan (plus several rides in and around Tokyo!)
• Ferries: 1 round trip from Fiji to Wayalailai
• Buses: 4 trips; iconic Fiji cross-island round trip, and to/from Madison/O’Hare Airport

(Also had the memorable bus ride in Samoa, but that was more like a local trip)

Number of Journal Entries

1. 2026 S. Pacific/Asia: 45 (2.7 days/entry)
2. 2025 London: 35 (3.1 d/e)
3. 2023 Caribbean: 35 (2.9 d/e)
4. 2019 South America: 34 (2.3 d/e)
5. 2024 London: 32 (3.4 d/e)
6. 2022 Hawaii: 29 (2.3 d/e)
7. 2020 Europe: 13 (2.5 d/e)
8. 2020 South America: 11 (2.7 d/e)

Favorite Photos

I saved nearly 5,000 photos from the trip. Here are a few of my favorites…

Waya Lailai Eco Haven, Fiji

On the hammock at Waya Lailai Eco Haven

Approaching Faleolo Airport on Upolu, Samoa

Iconic Buses of Samoa

Lydia at the Greek Orthodox Church in Nuku’Alofa, Tonga

Market in Suva, Fiji

Grand Pacific Hotel, Suva

View from the Waterfront Promenade, Singapore

Bangkok Traffic

Poolside Self-portrait, Chiang Mai

Wat Lok Moli, Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Night Market

Wat Long Khoune, Luang Prabang

Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang Night Market

Sunset on the Mekong River, Luang Prabang

Reclining Buddha at Wat That Luang Tai, Vientiane

Hirosaki

Hirosaki

Hirosaki

Mount Iwaki from Fujita Memorial Garden, Hirosaki

Godaido Hall, Yamadera

Jizo Statues, Nikko

Wedding at Toshogu Shrine, Nikko

Lake Chuzenji and Mount Nantai, Nikko

Photo Shoot in Kyu-Yasuda Gardens, Tokyo

Jugo-dori Shopping Street, Shibuya

Kaoru and Hokusai, Tokyo

That’s a wrap people! Please let me know if you have any suggestions for things to add to my lists, or photos I’ve overlooked.

Thank you so much for following along. I hope you’ll join me again next year!

(Speaking of which, I’ve already booked an Antarctic cruise for winter 2027; still trying to figure out the rest of the itinerary though. I’m open to suggestions on this topic as well!)

Monday, May 4 – Tokyo

Following my visit to the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum yesterday, Kaoru suggested I check out its sister facility, the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Great idea!

However, upon arrival at the museum, it became apparent that many, many others had the same idea. There was a massive queue waiting to enter! Mmmmmm…

(My theory about the Tokyo locals departing the city during Golden Week kind of just went out the window! They actually stay and visit the local attractions. Or maybe they do both. Tokyo is kind of a large city, after all!)

I decided to pass on the Edo-Tokyo Museum, and messaged Kaoru to see if she had other recommendations for things to see/do in this part of Tokyo.

And she came through big time…

Just a few blocks away is this interesting structure, The Sumida Hokusai Museum.

(The building was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Kazuyo Sejima.)

More Hokusai? Bonus!

The museum opened in 2016, and is located in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward, where the artist was born and spent the vast majority of his 90-year life.

I won’t bore you with too many photos. Below is a sampling of Hokusai’s work that is on display in the museum…

Susano-o no Mikoto Making a Pact with the Spirits of Disease

This is a recreation, based on a black & white photograph, of a piece which was lost to fire in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (more about that later). It was painted by Hokusai in 1845, when he was 86 years old. It’s a large piece, measuring 109 inches x 50 inches.

Night Raid of Chushingura (ca. 1781-89)

New Year’s day at the Yoshiwara (ca. 1811)

The Kintaikyo Bridge in Suo Province (ca. 1834)

Rainstorm Beneath the Summit (ca. 1831)

Ariwara No Narihira (ca. 1835)

(Note that the pieces on display at the museum are full-scale high-definition reproductions)

This was a nice visit in a not-so-crowded museum. And I received a senior discount! (700 JPY versus 1,000 JPY entry fee – 4.50 USD / 6.25 USD)

Cool manhole cover on the sidewalk adjacent to the museum!

The Tokyo Skytree can be seen in the distance from the park next door to the museum.

I next made a brief stop at Ryogoku Edo NOREN; a dining complex designed to look like a street from the Edo period (1603–1868), complete with traditional architecture and a focus on “Edo-style” food culture. The center of the atrium features…

…a full-scale sumo ring (dohyo). Ryogoku Edo NOREN is connected to the JR Ryogoku Station, which is right next to the Ryogoku Kokugikan (the main sumo stadium). I wasn’t very hungry yet, plus it was a little crowded; let’s move on.

Kyu-Yasuda Gardens was originally connected to the nearby Sumida River, meaning the water levels and scenery would change naturally with the rise and fall of the tides. Today, since the river is separated by floodgates, the garden uses a modern pump system to artificially simulate those same tidal changes twice a day.

The centerpiece is a pond named Shinji-no-ike.

Turtles catching some rays on this beautiful day!

This was a peaceful place to relax, with few visitors.

And I’m in luck, there’s a photo shoot taking place!

Just across the street from the Gardens is my next stop, Yokoamicho Park.

It is one of the city’s most somber and historically significant spaces. Yokoamicho serves primarily as a dual memorial to two of the greatest tragedies in Tokyo’s modern history: the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and the WWII Firebombing of Tokyo.

The park’s site was originally an Army Clothing Depot. On September 1, 1923, when the Great Kanto Earthquake struck, thousands of residents fled to this open space for safety, bringing their wooden furniture and belongings. However, a massive “fire whirl” (a tornado of fire) swept through the park, killing approximately 38,000 people in this single location within minutes. (The death toll from the earthquake is estimated to have been between 105,000 and 140,000 people)

After the 1945 air raids of Tokyo, which killed over 100,000 people, the park again became a site for mass interments and remembrance.

Approaching the rear of Memorial Hall.

In the background is the Peace Monument, a large, flower-covered semi-circle dedicated to the victims of the Tokyo air raids.

The Great Kanto Earthquake Monument for Children

Memorial Hall

The Hall houses the ashes of over 160,000 victims of both the earthquake and the air raids.

Also located in the park is the Great Kanto Earthquake Memorial Museum. I visited this as well (free admission). I’m ashamed to say I was not familiar with the 1923 earthquake. This visit was both enlightening and sobering.

Sidenote: After I mentioned to Kaoru that I visited Yokoamicho Park, she passed along some related family history. When her grandmother was little, the earthquake destroyed the hairdressing shop in their home. The area was engulfed in flames, and she and her mother fled to safety through the fire and rubble. Also, her father’s apartment was right in front of Memorial Hall, and ghosts often appeared there, so they sold it. Amazing stories!

This was another one of those days when Plan A fell apart, but Plans B, C, and D turned it into something special. Thanks for your help Kaoru!

I’m now making my way back to the apartment from Sasazuka Station.

This is Jugo-dori Shopping Street (Shotengai)

A very cool vibe!

Tuesday, May 5 – Tokyo

Well, this is my last full day in Tokyo (and Japan, and the trip, for that matter!)

I received another assist from Kaoru, with a suggestion to visit Zojoji Temple.

Approaching the temple complex, with Tokyo Tower in the background.

The Tower was completed in 1958, and at 1,092 feet, it was the tallest tower in Japan until the construction of Tokyo Skytree in 2012.

Ankokuden (Pilgrimage Hall)

The hall was built in 1974, replacing the former main hall, and was rebuilt in 2011 to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the death of Saint Hōnen.

Inside, the hall houses the standing Amida Buddha, a portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu, memorial tablets of past shoguns, and a statue of Princess Kazunomiya.

The Garden of Jizo Statues

The garden is lined with hundreds of stone “Unborn Child” Jizo statues. They are placed there by parents to protect the souls of lost children.

Daiden (Hondo: Main Hall)

Daibonsho (Big Bell), ca. 1673

The 15 ton bell is tolled twice a day – six times each in the early morning and again in the evening.

Statue of Kannon Bodhisattva (the “one who hears the cries of the world”)

A Columbarium located on the temple grounds (a structure designed to store urns containing cremated remains)

Next to the temple is Prince Sheba Park.

Nice spot!

Travel Note: Since I’m in Tokyo, it seems like a good time to take a look at the largest cities in the world, by population:

1. Jakarta – 41.9 million
2. Dhaka – 36.6
3. Tokyo – 33.4
4. Delhi – 30.2
5. Shanghai – 29.6
6. Guangzhou – 27.6
7. Cairo – 25.6
8. Manila – 24.7
9. Kolkata – 22.5
10. Seoul – 22.5

NYC is the largest city in the U.S. (13.9 million); number 22 in the world. I’ve been to 5 of the Top 10 (and have lived in Jakarta, twice); not sure if that is good or bad!

I’m checking out another park on this beautiful day, a 45 minute walk away.

Hama-rikyu Gardens is located at the mouth of the Sumida River. It was opened to the public on April 1, 1946.

And I received another senior discount on the entry fee here, 150 JPY, instead of the usual 300 JPY (1 USD/ 2 USD)! This is the first place that checked my ID though. I only had my Wisconsin driver’s license on me, but that worked!

The Gardens cover an area of 62 acres. (for reference, Central Park is 843 acres)

The pine tree in the foreground is believed to have been planted in 1709. It is one of the largest black pines in the Tokyo area.

This is Sanshoku Dango (literally “three-color dumplings”). Here is the breakdown of the three colors:

• Pink/Red: Represents the cherry blossoms (spring)
• White: Represents the remaining snow or winter’s end
• Green: Represents the new growth or grass of summer

200 JPY = 1.25 USD

While they look like candy, they are actually chewy, lightly sweetened rice dumplings. The verdict? Once is probably enough!

The flow of water from Tokyo Bay into the tidal pond here in the park is controlled by this gate. This is the only remaining seawater pond in Tokyo.

Interesting tree!

Ahead is The Floating Teahouse (Nakajima-no-ochaya). It is connected to the rest of the park by long bridges.

And Bonus! I got another stamp for my book!

This was a nice conclusion to the trip – a beautiful day spent outside with minimal crowds. And I got in 23k steps as well!

Addendum to JE 231

Along with her two other jobs, Kaoru is an assistant to a Spiritualist and is in training to become a Monk. Amazing! Right? She refers to herself as a “Baby Gyoja”. The “Baby” being a kind of slang/Japanglish term for someone just starting a tough path.

The “Gyoja” reference however brings us back to my JE 231. Specifically, the section where I hike the Takino Path and visit Gyojado Hall. Kaoru has been reading the Journal, and as you can tell by the term “Gyoja”, Gyojado Hall has significance in her life.

As I mentioned in JE 231, Gyojado Hall enshrines a 7th century mystic who founded Shugendo, a form of ascetic mountain worship. In her training, Kaoru prays to Fudo Myoo, the primary patron deity of the Yamabushi (mountain ascetics) and those practicing Shugendo. His name translates to “The Immovable Wisdom King.” Fudo Myoo embodies mental toughness and discipline. He is also widely considered the supreme protector of mountains and waterfalls in Japan. Fudo Myoo statues are often found at the base of mountain trails.

I’m honored by the fact that Kaoru has talked to her Shisho (Master/Mentor) about me. She told Kaoru that Fudo Myoo has been with me ever since I was born. That’s remarkable!

Wednesday, May 6 – transit from Tokyo to Madison

I’m flying out of Haneda Airport at 6pm tonight. And I have to be out of the apartment by 10am. Mmmmmm…

I depart from Haneda Terminal 3, which actually has some interesting aspects to explore, so I ended up going straight to the airport from my apartment after check out. While I took the bus from Narita Airport to the city when I arrived in Tokyo, Haneda is much closer to central Tokyo, which makes transport via train more efficient and economical. The trip from my apartment to the airport took 80 minutes, involved one transfer, and cost 739 JPY (4.75 USD).

Travel Note: Another reason I love Japan? Almost everyone keeps their phone on silent from the moment they leave the house. While on a train, phone conversations do not happen. Even with headphones, “sound leakage” is considered rude. So refreshing!

After arriving at the airport, I stored my bag in a locker (700 JPY) and proceeded to explore.

Here I’m in the Departures area, looking up to the next level where shops and restaurants are located. The wooden bridge in the center will be described further in a moment.

The view from another section of the Departures area – more shops one level up.

OMG it’s Godzilla!! Why are you all just standing around?? Run for your lives!

This is a half-scale replica of the Nihonbashi Bridge, made of Japanese cypress. It connects the 4th and 5th floors of the terminal.

Looking from the bridge down to the Departures area.

The shopping section of the terminal includes this Gashapon store, with the iconic vending machines that dispense capsules with surprise toys.

Awesome slot car track at Hakuhinkan Toy Park!

There is also an Observation Deck in Terminal 3.

I was getting a little hungry, and this Yoshinoya was calling my name. Founded in 1899, it is a classic Japanese fast food restaurant, and is the oldest gyudon (beef bowl) chain in the world.

I chose the Beef Bowl with Toppings of Green Onions and Raw Egg (715 JPY = 4.50 USD).

Hit the spot!

Haneda Airport Garden is directly connected to Terminal 3, and features over 70 shops and a luxury hotel.

This display commemorates Children’s Day, which was celebrated yesterday in Japan.

I had some yen left over, and instead of exchanging it for dollars, I was contemplating a purchase instead. I stopped in this store, admiring their porcelain tea cups. After browsing through some other shops, I eventually made my way back, and…

…purchased this small Mikawachi ware tea cup (called a Sencha-wan). This piece was created in the 1980s-90s.

Located in Nagasaki Prefecture, Mikawachi ware was originally a dedicated kiln for the Shogunate and the Imperial Court. Today, about 30 kilns still operate in the Mikawachi valley.

I know nothing about Pokémon, but evidently it’s popular, as this queue near my departure gate in the airport attests! At the front of the line is a “Pokémon Stand” vending machine.

For my 10 hour flight from Tokyo to Los Angeles, I booked a Premium Economy window seat on a United Airlines Dreamliner. I’d say the flight was 90% full. I was able to sleep a little bit.

I have Global Entry, but upon arrival at LAX there was no wait at immigration. And I had to re-check my bag there as well, which I received very quickly. Finally, I needed to go through security to enter the domestic area of the terminal. Using TSA PreCheck, there were zero travelers waiting in line. Have I arrived at Bizarro LAX? I’ve never had such a smooth experience here!

After a 2 hour layover, I was on another United flight, to O’Hare. Regular economy this time; a window seat in a fully-packed 757 for the 3 1/2 hour flight.

I used miles for the trip from Tokyo to Chicago: 65k + 50 USD.

The final leg of my journey was a bus ride from O’Hare to Madison. My flight arrived at the gate at 8:25pm. The buses depart at the top of the hour. I figured I had no chance of catching the 9pm bus, but gave it a shot. Again, I received my bag very quickly, and after riding the tram to the outskirts of the airport, I (quickly) walked up to the bus, with it’s door closed and the driver poised to pull away. Made it! (Just)

Travel Note: When I departed on this trip on January 6th, I took the bus from Madison to O’Hare. At that time, the price of gas was around 2.50 USD/gallon and the bus ticket was 40 USD. Today, the price a gas is around 4.50 USD/gallon and the bus ticket cost…41 USD. I would have expected a much greater price increase.

The bus was surprisingly full. As the last one to board, I ended up sitting next to someone. That changed though after our first stop in Rockford. A few passengers exited and I moved to an empty set of two seats.

We arrived at the drop off point on the UW Campus at 11:50pm. I ordered a Lyft (14 USD), and was at the door of my house at 12:15am.

I’ve had several Page-A-Day Travel Calendars over the years. If something came up that interested me, I would set aside the page for future trip ideas. This winter I was able to visit 4 pages!

These are the only shoes that I brought with me on the trip. You may remember that I had to glue them back together when I was in London last year. Hangin’ in there!

Well! That’s a wrap on my 2026 Winter Escape. Thank you to everyone for following along; this one has been rather long, so I appreciate your stamina! And many thanks to all of you who have reached out during the trip; be it by comments, messages, or calls. Solo traveling gets a little lonely at times; hearing from you makes it (much) less so.

I say this every year, but it’s worth repeating: I don’t take these trips for granted. I feel blessed to have the physical and financial wherewithal to fulfill my travel aspirations. I also can’t ignore the simple twist of fate that birthed me in the United States, a country whose citizens are able to travel visa-free (or visa-easy) to so many countries throughout the world.

For those of you who are gluttons for punishment, I’ll be posting one more Entry for this trip: My annual summary with lists, stats, and favorite photos. Look for it in the next couple days…

Friday, May 1 – Tokyo

I’ve been looking forward to this day because I’m meeting my friend Kaoru for lunch! We last saw each other in 2017 (on my birthday!), when I was here in Japan on a business trip. I was back again on a BT in early 2018, but we weren’t able to connect then.

We met at the Hachiko statue by Shibuya Station, and then made our way to this nice restaurant/wine bar within the station.

Kaoru ordered three different plates for us to share…

And they were all great!

This was a wonderful lunch! And we weren’t even finished!

Kaoru then brought me to this cafe, where she snagged us the window seats on the left.

Our view of Shibuya,…

…including the famous Shibuya Crossing.

Shibuya Crossing has been described as the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, with as many as 3,000 people crossing during a single green light cycle. It looks a little lighter than that today though. Likely due to the fact that we’re in the middle of Golden Week, when the office workers are away.

We both went with matcha tea; mine hot, Kaoru’s on ice. I took this photo, and…

…Kaoru took this one. I’m such an amateur!

This was a delightful afternoon! Thank you so much Kaoru!

And to top it all off, Kaoru surprised me with this delicious gift box…

Yummmmm!

Sidenote: When it was time for me to make my way back to the apartment, the area around Shibuya Station was packed. I didn’t feel like clawing my way through the crowd to get to the trains, so decided to just walk back. It took about an hour. It was actually nice.

Saturday, May 2 – Tokyo

I’m a huge admirer of the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai; and luckily for me, The National Museum of Western Art here in Tokyo is currently presenting an exhibition of his work, titled Thirty-six Views of Mt. Fuji. I’ll be checking it out today.

Do you know who else is a Hokusai fan? Kaoru. And she’ll be meeting me at the museum this morning. This day just got so much better!

The museum is located in Ueno Park, which is also home to the zoo. That’s where these folks are heading on this beautiful Saturday morning.

The National Museum of Western Art (NMWA) was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016 as part of The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier. Completed in 1959, it is the only building designed by the Swiss-French architect in East Asia.

The NMWA is world-renowned for its collection of Auguste Rodin sculptures. Many of these are displayed in an outdoor courtyard, including The Gates of Hell (One of the few original casts in the world).

(You probably noticed Rodin’s The Thinker in the foreground of the previous photo. Hard to miss!)

I posed under protest! Nobody wants to see me.

Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji is a legendary series of landscape woodblock prints created by Katsushika Hokusai between 1830 and 1832. Hokusai was about 70 years old when he started this series. He actually believed that everything he did before the age of 70 wasn’t “real” art and that he was only just beginning to understand the true nature of things. There’s still hope for me!

When Japan opened its borders in the mid-1800s, these prints flooded into Europe. Many of the Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists in the region were heavily influenced by Hokusai’s work.

The Great Wave off Kanagawa: Arguably the most famous work of Japanese art in history. It depicts a massive wave threatening three boats, with Mt. Fuji appearing in the distance.

The exhibition displayed three of Hokusai’s works within an individual kiosk that allowed viewers to see both the front and back of the woodblock print. Clever! This is the back of The Great Wave off Kanagawa.

The exhibition was fairly crowded, but not terrible.

This is Fuji from Gotenyama at Shinagawa on the Tokaido Highway. It is another of the three prints that have both their front and back displayed within a kiosk.

The back of Fuji from Gotenyama at Shinagawa on the Tokaido Highway.

The back of a Japanese woodblock print is a crucial indicator of its authenticity and quality. In a high-quality original print, the colors “bleed” through to the back. You can often see a “ghost” or mirror image of the front on the reverse side. If the back of a print is stark white, it’s usually a sign that it’s a modern mechanical reproduction or a cheap lithograph rather than a hand-pulled woodblock.

I was able to get a couple photos when the crowds parted…

The NMWA’s permanent collection contains roughly 6,000 pieces, spanning from the late Middle Ages through to the early 20th century. It is the result of an extensive assemblage of works gathered by businessman Kojiro Matsukata in the early 20th century.

After WWII, the Matsukata collection was held by the French government as enemy property. It was eventually returned to Japan on the condition that a “National Museum of Western Art” be built to house it.

Sidenote: There is currently a Monet exhibition at the Artizon Museum here in Tokyo. I was hoping to attend, but it’s sold out. Ugh! However, the NMWA has several Monet’s in its collection. That was a nice surprise! In fact, Kojiro Matsukata was a friend of Monet and visited him at Giverny multiple times. At one point, Matsukata owned over 30 Monets.

Following our museum visit, Kaoru brought me to her favorite ramen spot, which is also located in Ueno.

Orders are placed, and payment is made, at this vending machine next to the entrance. A ticket is produced that is then given to the cook inside.

This place is awesome!

We both ordered Miso Ramen. I took this photo, and…

…Kaoru took this one. I’m pathetic!

And Kaoru also got us each a plate of Gyoza (potstickers). Perfect!

The cost of the ramen bowl was 920 JPY (5.75 USD), and the plate of gyoza was 300 JPY (2 USD). Remember my visit to the Sendai Ramen Festa? My bowl there cost 1,000 JPY, and it was smaller. Sendai more expensive than Tokyo?? It helps to know the right people!

Following the delicious lunch we took advantage of the beautiful weather and walked around the Ueno area a bit.

We ultimately ended the day with some matcha tea once again. I joined Kaoru with the ice version today; it’s a little warm outside!

Thank you Kaoru for spending parts of these last two days with me! It’s been a joy! I hope it’s not another 9 years before we see each other again!

Sunday, May 3 – Tokyo

I had a relaxing morning; getting some journal work done. It was a beautiful day though, and I had read about a museum I wanted check out. An outdoor museum…

The Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum is located in Koganei Park (western Tokyo), covers 17 acres, and features 30 full-scale historical buildings that were dismantled from their original locations and rebuilt here.

And as a senior, my entry fee was 200 JPY (1.25 USD) instead of 400 JPY. Nice!

The Residence of Hachirouemon Mitsui (ca. 1952)

Farmhouse of Yoshino Family (ca. The late Edo period; 1830s–1868)

House of Koide (ca. 1925)

Washroom

Attic Sleeping Area

House of Kunio Mayekawa

The house was built in 1942, at a time when wartime restrictions made building materials difficult to acquire.

It is an example of mid-century modern Japanese architecture, and was built by a disciple of Le Corbusier (the architect discussed earlier, who designed The National Museum of Western Art).

House of Okawa in Den’enchofu (ca. 1925)

House of Korekiyo Takahashi (ca. 1902)

A 1968 Isuzu TSD43 Bus. It was originally used by the Japan Air Self-Defense Force before being retired and eventually making its way to the museum collection.

Second House of Nishikawa Family (ca. 1922)

Electric Light from the Front Gate of the Imperial Palace (ca. 1890s)

Ueno Fire Department Watch Tower Upper Section (ca. 1925; in use until 1970, when the increase in high-rise buildings reduced their effectiveness)

Kagiya (Bar); built in 1856 as a one-story structure, subsequently expanded with the addition of a second floor.

The interior is how it would have looked in the 1970s.

Mantoku Inn (ca. late 19th century)

The Inn was in operation until 1993 in its original form, without significant alternation to the interior or remodeling of the fixtures.

The museum/park was just a little busy today…

An enjoyable visit on a beautiful day!

Travel Note:

I’ve seen a lot of these Toyota Crown Sports during my time in Japan. I like the look of this compact SUV, and would consider buying one; unfortunately, this version is not sold in the United States. Here is the model we get. (kind of similar, I guess…)

Wednesday, April 29 – transit from Nikko to Tokyo

My train to Tokyo didn’t depart until 4:38pm; so, after leaving my bag with the apartment staff, I headed off to explore another walking trail from the map that Sato gave me.

The trail is called the Takino Path, and it runs along the periphery of the Toshogu Shrine complex.

The trail starts just across the street from the Shinkyo Bridge. This is Jinjaodo Hall. Jinjao is the deity who helped the Buddhist monk Shodo cross the Daiya River. This current hall was rebuilt in 1978.

The Hongo Shrine. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1684, but was rebuilt the following year.

Just behind the Shrine is…

…this Three Story Pagoda. Like the Shrine, it was rebuilt in 1685 following the fire.

Kodamado Hall. Kodama translates to “small ball“. According to legend, a monk witnessed two white balls rising from a pond here. Believing them to be incarnations of holy spirits, he built Kodamado to enshrine them.

After a short walk I arrived at Kaizando Hall. It dates to the early 17th century.

Next to Kaizando is Kannondo Hall.

People come to this hall to pray for safe and easy childbirth.

The wooden blocks look like one of the pieces in Japanese chess, which can only move forward in a straight line. The blocks are placed here in the hopes of an uncomplicated delivery and a successful life for the child.

Just behind Kaizando is the grave site of the previously mentioned monk, Shodo. He introduced Buddhism to the Nikko region.

Further behind Kaizando is Hotokeiwa (literally, “Buddha’s Rock“). Before it collapsed in an earthquake, people claimed they could see figures of the Buddha on its surface. It’s still a cool looking rock!

Today, 6 stone statues of the Buddha stand here.

The pretty Takino Path is a 3 mile loop.

After a little bit more of a hike, I am now at Shiraito Falls.

Just to the right of the falls is the entrance to the Takino Shrine complex.

Undameshi no Torii. Undameshi translates to “try your luck“. Visitors test their luck by tossing pebbles 3 times at the small opening at the upper part of the torii. It is said that your wish will come true if a pebble passes through. I didn’t try!

It is believed that the Takino Shrine was originally built in 820. These current buildings date to 1645.

Crossing little Munen Bridge is a symbolic separation from the mundane, everyday world into the sacred space of Mt. Nyoho. The bridge dates to 1677.

In the background…

…stand 3 sacred trees known as Goshinboku. According to legend, a goddess once descended upon them. The present trees were planted about 250-300 years ago after the original ones fell. The remains of one of the original trees can be seen in the foreground, lying on the ground just beyond the fence.

This is the approach to…

…Kodaneishi…

…a fertility stone. Visitors customarily offer prayers while standing in front of the stone and then circle it in a clockwise direction.

I am now on the loop back towards the start of the trail.

Ahead is Gyojado Hall.

The hall enshrines a 7th century mystic who founded Shugendo, a form of ascetic mountain worship.

Well, this was another fun, tranquil hike! And I encountered very few people on the trail; all locals. Nice!

It’s now early afternoon, and I’m a little hungry. This nearby Indian restaurant, Taj Nikko, has some great Google reviews (4.8 stars, with 450+ reviews). Let’s check it out!

(the restaurant is on the 2nd floor)

I must have just missed the lunchtime rush! (It did start to fill up shortly after I sat down.)

I chose the Double Curry Set, and…

…Hot Masala Chai. Total Cost: 2,400 JPY = 15 USD.

And it was very good!

As I worked my way through town to pick up my bag at the apartment office, I walked by the former Nikko City Hall (ca. 1919).

Also spotted another vintage Mini!

While at the the apartment office, Sato told me about a complimentary pop-up origami class taking place nearby. I still had some time to kill before my train departed; why not! Our instructor is on the right.

The class (including a rare Tim sighting).

And my finished product!

While waiting for the train at the station, I met a Russian, Dimitri, who clued me into the stamps that are available at all of the Japanese train stations. Cool! He’s been in Japan for a little over two weeks, and has visited over 100 stations. Wow! A man on a mission!

My train to Tokyo.

This is a Limited-Express train, and all the seats are reserved. I had a window seat, and no one sat next to me for the entire 2 hour trip. Nice! The cost of the ticket was 26 USD.

Views of rice paddies along the way…

I arrived at Shinjuku Station at 6:30pm, and then connected to a local train to take the short ride to Sasazuka Station in Shibuya, which is close to my Airbnb rental.

(You may recall from my previous Tokyo JE, that Shinjuku is the busiest train station in the world, with more than 1.1 billion passengers per year! And yes, it was jam-packed when I arrived! It actually might be busier than usual tonight though, because today is the first day of Golden Week here in Japan. It’s a national holiday period that runs from today until next Wednesday, and is Japan’s busiest domestic travel season. It can be a good time to visit Tokyo however, as many residents leave the city to visit their hometowns.)

The walk from Sasazuka Station to the apartment took 15 minutes.

I’ll be here for the final 7 nights of my trip.

169 USD/night

(Apartment in Chiang Mai: 40 USD/night. Apartment in Tokyo: 170 USD/night. Mmmmmm…)

It’s nice!

After briefly dropping off my things at the apartment, I gathered a few items that I would need for overnight and headed back out to travel across Tokyo to the hotel where I’ll be staying tonight.

Wait? What?!? You’ve rented the apartment, but you’re staying at a hotel tonight. What’s up with that? I think I’ll leave that explanation for tomorrow’s entry.

Travel Note: My hotel is located near Tokyo Bay, and I arrived in the area around 9pm tonight. It is a very quiet place at this time of night. Well, as I was walking around trying to decipher some wonky directions that Google Maps was giving me, a woman came up and asked if I needed any help. It was just her and me; nobody else around. I can’t imagine the same thing happening under similar circumstances in any major U.S. city. Japan is awesome!

The view as I looked for my hotel.

Sidenote: With the hike I took earlier today, and the walking I did around Tokyo tonight, I set a personal best daily step count for the trip: 26.2k!

Thursday, April 30 – Tokyo

Okay. I stayed at the Hotel Mariners Court last night because it is within walking distance of the Toyosu Market. Where I have to be at 5:30 this morning. To attend the iconic Tokyo Tuna Auction!

Sidenote: In January of this year, a new record was set at the auction when a a 243 kg (536 lb) bluefin tuna sold for 510 million JPY, roughly 3.2 million USD!

If I had stayed at my apartment last night, I would have had to catch a taxi (or rideshare) to get to the port by 5am, because public transport does not operate early enough. And that would have cost at least 50 USD. So, instead I spent 59 USD on the hotel room, and eliminated the stress of securing an early morning ride.

I know what you’re thinking: You idiot! Why did you book the Airbnb for last night if you knew you were attending the auction this morning? Well, there is my lack of advance planning issues!

But also, on a lark, I entered the free lottery to view the auction from the special observation room that is located on the same floor as the auction. And I won a spot! I had already made my Airbnb reservation by the time I was notified of the win. That was the main reason I needed the double booking last night.

The email confirmation of my lottery win.

The Toyosu Market Complex opens at 5am. I got there a little before that to join the short queue of people waiting to enter the building.

The Toyosu Market at 4:50am.

I did not have my Wisconsin baseball cap on today, but I was wearing my black UW fleece with the less recognizable “academic” version of the W logo on the chest (I’m seen wearing it in the origami photo yesterday). Well, as I was waiting in line, the woman standing in front of me asked if I was from Wisconsin. She recognized the logo. Crazy! Turns out she’s from Wauwatosa, and graduated from the UW. Small world!

The “Academic” W

Sidenote: The same thing happened to me back when I was living in London. I was wearing the same fleece, and was taking the train from Paris back to London. A man sat down next to me and asked if I was from Wisconsin. This would have been between 15 and 20 years ago, which just made me realize how long I have had that fleece! Wow!

There are two areas where visitors can view the auction:

• The auction walkway gallery one floor above the auction area
• The special observation room that is on the same floor as the auction area (via lottery)

While everyone else waiting in line made their way to claim a viewing spot in the walkway gallery, I was directed to this Visitor’s Hall where the lottery winners would gather before heading down to the auction floor at 5:35am.

My visitor card.

I had some time to kill before our group made the move to the observation room at 5:35am, so did a little wandering around the complex.

288 cm = 113 inches

This is the 2nd floor auction walkway gallery. Folks are beginning to get into viewing position. When our group walked through here at 5:35, the hallway was full.

The view from the walkway gallery.

I took this picture after the auction. The arrow points to the observation room allocated to the lottery winners.

The observation room. It’s kind of hard to see in this photo, but the window glass does not go all the way up to the ceiling. The open space at the top allowed us to hear what was happening on the auction floor.

There were about 20 of us in here watching the auction.

The view from the observation room. The walkway gallery can be seen in the upper left.

The fresh catch is off to the left.

The frozen catch is in front…

…and off to the right.

There are several separate auctions that take place throughout the session. For example, the group of frozen tuna in the foreground will be sold off individually in their own mini-auction.

And the auctions are run at a very fast pace. The fresh tuna seen here has already been sold, tagged, and in one instance, crated.

Here one of our guides is demonstrating the hand signals used by the buyers during an auction.

Crates ready to be filled.

In the background, a mini-auction is taking place. In the foreground, buyers are inspecting the tuna. One item they check are the tails, which have been cut off and defrosted. With the spikes they are extracting moisture from the fish; this will help determine the fat content.

Okay, one of the last auctions of the morning is taking place right in front of us. The auctioneer is standing on the stool. The buyers have tags on their hats or are wearing armbands.

Here’s a short video of the auction. (apologies for the talking in the background)

And after 1 hour, the auction’s complete. (I took these photos from the walkway gallery)

This was a great experience! Well worth the early wake up!

I’m into stamps now! And was able to get a couple here at the market.

Housed in the massive building next door is the Fruit and Vegetable Market. I wanted to check it out while I was here.

An interesting promotional display in the observation gallery!

Another building in the market had a small area set aside with a few fresh fish restaurants.

I passed though; the prices seemed rather high.

On the roof of the building with the restaurants is this massive green space.

With nice views of the bay.

This has been a fun morning! But after yesterday’s busy day, and today’s early wake up, I’m ready to head back to the apartment for some rest.

My apartment building. And if that line is any indication, the bakery on the ground floor must be pretty good. I’ll have to check it out!

Sunday, April 26 – transit from Sendai to Nikko

I’m back on a Shinkansen train again this morning, traveling south to Nikko. It’s a 75 minute trip; not worth a Gran Class ticket, but I did go with Green Class. The total cost of the ticket was 78 USD (the upgrade to Green cost 23 USD).

A view from the trip.

The bullet train got me to Utsunomiya; from there I transferred to a local train on to Nikko. The cost of that 45 minute trip was 5 USD.

The train from Utsunomiya to Nikko.

Nikko Train Station

Inside the station

I arrived around 2pm, and the owner of the apartment where I am staying, Sato, picked me up at the station. Very nice! It was a short 10 minute ride.

I’m staying at the Sumica Apartments; basically two apartments on the second floor of this building. My apartment is the window on the right, and the common entrance to both apartments is the door on the right.

The entrance to my apartment.

I’m staying for 3 nights.

109 USD/night

Sato provided me with a handy Nikko walking trail map, and it’s a nice afternoon. I’m heading out!

Just a few minutes walk from my apartment is the start of the trail – the Shinkyo Bridge.

According to legend, Buddhist monk Shodo, the first head priest of Nikko, asked the mountain deities for help crossing the Daiya River, at which point two snakes appeared and transformed into a bridge.

Upstream from the bridge.

This 3 mile trail is called the Kanman Path.

The Daiya River runs through Nikko.

Approaching the entrance to the Jiunji Temple grounds.

The temple was founded in 1654, but was destroyed by a flood in the early 20th century. It was rebuilt in 1973.

Reihikaku Pavilion

The temple complex includes a line of stone statues of Jizo, the Buddhist guardian deity.

The red bibs and hats placed on Japanese Buddhist figures symbolize protection for children, unborn babies, and travelers. The color red is believed to ward off evil spirits and illnesses.

Before the flood of 1902 there were 100 statues here; 74 now remain.

(I kind of like this photo…)

Dainichi Bridge

Entrance to the Shakado Hall complex.

The grounds contain the Junshi Graves.

There are 24 large gravestones here.

They mark the final resting places of the chief vassals of the Tokugawa family from the early period of the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603-1867).

Monday, April 27 – Nikko

Why Nikko? Well, it’s definitely NOT because it’s off-the-beaten path!

It is home to one of Japan’s best-known and opulent shrines – Toshogu. And the 103 religious buildings within two Shinto shrines and one Buddhist temple here are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There was heavy rain this morning, but by 10:30am it had lightened up enough to get out and explore (I only have a short time in Nikko!).

I had high expectations for my visit to Toshogu. It’s why I came to Nikko. I have to say I was generally let down though. Mainly due to the crowds at the site (even on this rainy day). It’s just where I’m at as a traveler; I prefer the less visited places. Kind of a sad commentary, right? About me!

(Spoiler alert!) There was one pleasant surprise awaiting me today however.

(In the following photos it may not look like there are a lot of visitors onsite, but that’s just a reflection of my patience (stubbornness!), and choice of subject matter)

Making my way up to the shrine complex.

I booked my ticket in advance online. The cost for entrance to the Toshogu Shrine and the Museum was 15 USD.

Sanbutsudo Hall, the main building of Rinno-ji Temple.

This Five-Story Pagoda is located at the entrance of Toshogu Shrine complex. Originally built in 1650 and rebuilt in 1818, it features earthquake-resistant technology with a suspended central pillar.

One of the more well known attractions of Toshogu is the Three Monkeys wood carvings.

Each monkey symbolizes a different aspect of “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. This proverbial phrase dates back to ancient Japan, stemming from Confucius.

There are 121 lanterns within the shrine complex, dating to the 17th century.

This candelabra was presented to the Shrine in 1636 by the Dutch government.

Yomeimon Gate; considered to be Japan’s most lavishly decorated gate. It contains 508 detailed carvings of children, elders and mythical beasts.

Climbing the 207 stone steps that lead to the Inner Shrine.

Tokugawa Ieyasu’s tomb in the Inner Shrine.

Tokugawa Ieyasu was a Japanese samurai, daimyo and the founder and first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan, which ruled from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1867.

(I visited the grave sites of the Tokugawa family vassals yesterday)

Slippery when wet!

Okay, now for my pleasant surprise on the visit…

…there’s a wedding taking place today at the Toshogu Shrine!

I like this picture which shows one of the wedding photographers taking a picture of the spectators. And there were many! (I was lucky in that I happened to notice what was going on before most of the others in the area, and snagged this prime viewing spot.)

The photographer even encouraged us to offer cheers of congratulations to the newlyweds!

I wonder what the process is to schedule a wedding at Toshogu Shrine?

Fun!

After the shrine visit I did a little walking around Nikko.

It’s a pretty small, and rather touristy town. But that’s okay.

This tram dates to the 1950s, when it operated here in Nikko.

Tuesday, April 28 – Nikko

I’m on a local bus this morning, traveling west to visit Lake Chuzenji.

At the bus stop near the lake.

I caught the bus at 8:35am in Nikko, and we arrived here at 9:20am. The round trip would have cost 2,500 JPY (15.75 USD), but I bought a 2 day unlimited bus pass for 2,300 JPY. So, even if I don’t take the bus anymore after this, I still save a couple hundred yen.

Sidenote: Do you notice that the plural of yen is…yen? 1 yen. 100 yen. 1 dollar. 100 dollars. I’m weird, I know! (It comes down to the fact that there are no plurals in the Japanese language.)

I’m going to do some hiking along the east shore of the lake.

Looking at the little village on the north shore of the lake. This area is still considered to be a part of Nikko.

You don’t see one of these very often! A Mercedes Benz Unimog.

I’m going to divert from my hike to visit the Chuzenji Temple. Entrance Fee: 500 JPY (3 USD).

Niomon Gate

The details of the founding of this temple are uncertain. The earliest mention of it in historical records is in 1141. It was located in the mountains at that time, but was destroyed in the typhoon and floods of 1902. The temple was subsequently rebuilt on this site.

Shoro

Hashiri Daikokutendo Hall

Hondo Main Hall

Making my way up to Godaido Hall.

The view from Godaido Hall.

Lake Chuzenji sits at a surface elevation of 1,300 m (4,100 ft), and is rather small, with a surface area of 2,900 acres. It is deep though, with a maximum depth of 500 feet.

(For those of you familiar with the lakes of Madison, Lake Monona is 3,300 acres, with a maximum depth of 75 feet. Oh, and an elevation of 800 feet!)

Mount Nantai. 2,486 meters = 8,156 feet.

Up ahead is the former British Embassy Villa.

The villa was built in 1896 as a private residence for a British diplomat.

It was subsequently used by the successive ambassadors as a villa for the British embassy until 2008.

Following a dismantlement and restoration, it was opened to the public in 2016.

Very nice!

A panorama from the shoreline, with the villa on the right.

A short walk from the British Villa is the Italian Embassy Villa.

The villa was designed by Antonin Raymond, and built in 1928.

The design of the Italian Embassy Villa is particularly unique in that it uses intricate cedar bark panels for both the interior and exterior walls.

The villa was used by the Italian Embassy until 1997.

The combined entry fee to both villas is 450 JPY (3 USD).

Sidenote: To me, the design of the Italian Villa looked very similar to Frank Lloyd Wright’s work. I was curious if there was a relationship between Raymond and Wright. And it turns out there was! Raymond and his wife, Noemi Pernessin, worked under Wright at his Taliesin estate in Wisconsin in 1916. When Wright was commissioned to design the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo in 1919, he brought Raymond to Japan to serve as his chief assistant. After working on the Imperial Hotel for about a year, Raymond left Wright’s firm in 1920 to open his own practice in Tokyo.

The villa’s pier.

The view of the villa from the pier.

Another panorama! From, you guessed it, the pier.

I’m doing an out-and-back hike, and this is my turnaround point. The little village that was at the start of my trek can be seen in the distance.

A few clouds have rolled in since I was here a while ago!

A view from the bus ride back to central Nikko.

Travel Note: For me, today’s tranquil hike was much more enjoyable than yesterday’s busy environment at the Toshogu Shrine. But, as you know, I’m weird.

Thursday, April 23 – Sendai

You probably recall how my day in Hirosaki last week started out with a setback, but then turned into something amazing. Well, today is kind of the opposite of that; not a complete failure, but a little disappointing. Here’s how it went…

I’m going to focus on the eastern part of Sendai; starting the day at the Sendai Umino-Mori Aquarium. I read some encouraging reviews, and thought it would be a fun place to check out. To get there I had a 20 minute train ride, followed by a 20 minute walk.

They even offered a senior discount! So I paid 1,800 JPY instead of 2,400 JPY (11.25 v. 15.10 USD). Whoo hoo!

Couldn’t resist the sakura reference.

These Japanese Spider Crabs freaked me out! (the lighting might have had something to do with it!)

Pretty seaweed display.

I liked this, because it represents Matsushima Bay, and the Magaki (oysters) that inhabit it.

There were many children around the aquarium, which was fun.

An overhead tank.

I happened to be there during feeding time for the penguins.

This 1,000 ton tank recreates the Sanriku ocean. It has no roof, allowing natural sunlight to filter through, highlighting the school of roughly 25,000 sardines.

I also happened to be there during this dolphin and sea lion performance.

It was a fun diversion, but maybe not something I would necessarily recommend.

The main reason I wanted to explore the eastern part of the city was to visit the Sendai Arahama Elementary School. The school became a symbol of hope and survival during the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Located just 700 meters from the coastline, the building was struck by a wave that reached the second floor. All 320 people inside, including students, staff, and local residents, survived by evacuating to the rooftop. They were rescued by helicopter 27 hours later.

Unfortunately, it’s not easily accessible by public transport. According to Google Maps, to get from the aquarium to the school would take 90 minutes by a combination of train and bus. If I walk? Seventy-five minutes. Easy choice; quicker and free!

The school is open to the public. The first and second floors are left in their damaged state, and visitors can also access the rooftop. On the fourth floor are exhibition rooms.

Unfortunately…

…the school is closed on the 4th Thursday of the month. Today! I knew it was closed on Mondays, but was unaware of the odd Thursday (obviously!). I’m an idiot!!!

Oh well, there other memorials to visit in the area, as this map depicts.

A monument to “The Memories and History of the Arahama Area”

The before and after tsunami images from this location. Can you spot the school in the “after” photo?

Ruins of some homes were left untouched…

The Arahama neighborhood was once home to 800 households, but has since been designated a high-risk area where residential rebuilding is prohibited.

The Arahama Memorial Bell. The distance from the stone in the foreground to the bell monument itself represents the 13.7 meter maximum height reached by the tsunami.

This nearby statue is also 13.7 meters in height. To the right is a memorial listing the names of the earthquake/tsunami victims.

The construction of this protective berm that runs along the coast was completed in 2017.

Today’s gloomy weather seems appropriate for this visit. I’m disappointed that I wasn’t able to access the interior of the school, but this was still a worthwhile trip.

I now have a one hour walk to the Arai train station. There was also a bus option, but I was kind of in the mood to walk.

Located directly within Arai Station is the Sendai 3/11 Memorial Community Center.

The entrance includes this 3D topographic map of the Sendai coastal area.

A woman who worked here, and didn’t speak English, approached me and attempted to explain the various aspects of the Center. It was a very nice gesture, and actually fairly helpful!

“Our March 11th” Wall: A display where visitors can read personal messages from survivors and leave their own reflections or wishes for the future. The strips of paper are called Tanzaku.

This map of the East Sendai Coast was developed with the help of residents across many generations, who shared their memories and stories of the area, writing them on post-it notes, which were then made into illustrations.

The Sendai Arahama Elementary School is at the center top.

In this room is a chronological timeline and photo gallery detailing the immediate damage in 2011 and the subsequent years of reconstruction.

This section focuses on March 2011.

Well, I did a lot of walking today (22k steps), but I have to say the scenery wasn’t very interesting – mainly commercial areas and farm land. Another “Oh Well” to the day!

Travel Note: I’m just hearing about a wild bear being on the loose here in Sendai a few days ago. Crazy! That must be why the trail in Kyogamine Park was closed when I visited recently. Sadly, it was eventually caught and euthanized.

Friday, April 24 – Sendai

I have a little more exploring of Sendai planned for today…

My first visit is to the AER Building, located near the Sendai Station.

It offers a complimentary observation deck (“Panorama Terrace”) on its 31st floor.

The 31st floor even has its own elevator button!

The view looking east…

…and west. (North and south views were not open to the public)

Straight ahead is the entrance to the Clisroad Shopping Street. I’m heading there in search of the most popular “street food” of Sendai – “Hyotan-Age”.

And the place to get it is the Abe Kamaboko Main Store.

Hyotan-Age is so popular they have this specific takeaway stand at the exterior of the store.

This explains the basics of Hyotan-Age: It is a firm kamaboko (white fish cake) ball dipped in batter, shaped like a gourd, and deep-fried. It is similar to a corn dog.

These handy ordering instructions were provided. 300 JPY = 2 USD.

It is recommended to top a Hyotan-Age with ketchup. My verdict? Ummmm, nothing special. Sorry Sendai!

I am now on Jozenji-dori Avenue.

It’s a tree-lined boulevard in central Sendai.

Known for its “European” feel, featuring tree tunnels (zelkova trees), benches, and outdoor art…

…including this piece by Emilio Greco, titled “Memories of Summer”.

I’ve now taken the train to Asutonagamachi Morinohiroba Park in order to attend the opening day of the Sendai Ramen Festa 2026. It runs through May 6th.

The Festa features the top ramen from ten different prefectures.

Adjacent to the park is this interesting building, the KHB Headquarters (Higashinippon Broadcasting).

Each of the stands are lined up in the background. Visitors buy a ticket for 1,000 JPY (6.25 USD), and exchange it at one of the stands for a bowl of ramen.

Also onsite are drink and non-ramen food stands.

This is the ramen vendor that I chose…

…with the help of Google Translate!

Cute!

I went with no extra toppings – strictly the basics!

A little bit of a crowd on the opening afternoon of the festa.

And it was very good!

Saturday, April 25 – Sendai

This is my last full day in Sendai, and I’m on the train to Yamadera Temple this morning, with the intent to climb the 1,000+ steps up to Godaido Hall. It’s a beautiful day for a hike. Let’s go!

I’m making a pass through the Asaichi Street Market as I head to the station…

A promotion for the local baseball team in the station.

A quiet Saturday morning at Sendai station. My train departs at 8:18am.

A little over an hour later, with a fare of 902 JPY/5.75 USD, I arrived at Yamadera Station in Yamagata.

Yamadera Train Station

A few scenes on my way to the trailhead…

There are several shops and restaurants along the road from the station to the start of the climb.

The temple complex was founded in 860 under the official name Risshakuji. Its popular name, Yamadera, literally means “mountain temple” in Japanese.

Konponchudo Hall, Yamadera’s main hall.

It is considered the oldest beech wood structure in Japan (ca. 1356).

Shoro Bell Tower

Sanmon Gate, where the climb begins. The entry fee is 500 JPY (3 USD).

Here we go…

This small structure, Ubado, symbolizes Jodoguchi, or the gateway to Paradise. The area above the shrine represents Paradise, while the area below signifies Hell. With each step up the stone stairs, it is believed that one’s earthly desires disappear. I’ll let you know…

360 steps down, 640 to go. Although…per the map of the temple grounds I received, there are a total of 1,015 steps. I feel like I’m being cheated out of 15 steps here!

Midahora Rock’s surface features numerous engraved memorial tablets. The wooden tablets propped against its base are called Goshoguruma.

Niomon Gate (ca. 1848)

Looking down from the Gate.

Getting close!

Notice the mailbox?

It’s funny that they have one way up here!

This is the view down from the tree in the previous photo.

This bronze lantern marks the formal end of the 1,000 (or 1,015?) step climb. Yes!

(Even though, as you can see, there are still a few more steps on the right!)

Nyohodo Temple; this is at the very top of the climb.

To the left of Nyohodo is Daibutsuden. Together they are called Okunoin.

Up and to the left past the Niomon Gate are two of Yamadera’s most famous buildings: Kaizando on the right, and the smaller Nokyodo (ca. 1599). Kaizando is dedicated to the temple’s founder, Ennin, while Nokyodo, the oldest structure in the Yamadera Temple complex, was used for copying the full Lotus Sutra.

Nokyodo and Kaizando

A view of Nokyodo from a lower walking path.

Kaizando (ca. 1848). The stairs on the right lead to…

…Godaido Hall. Although it is not at the top of the steps, it is the ultimate destination of the climb. It’s an open wooden observation deck built into the cliffside.

A view of the Tachiya River Valley from Godaido. The train station is on the right.

This was an awesome hike on a beautiful day!

I’m now on my way out of Yamadera Temple. That is Bakkumon Gate just ahead.

Back on the station platform now. The arrow points to Godaido Hall.

Impressive snowblower!

Our train approaches…

I am in the last car of the train.

It’s late afternoon and I’m back at the Sendai station. And I’m hungry. I’ve already tried Sendai’s popular street food, Hyotan-Age; now I’m going to check out the meal that Sendai is known for: Gyutan (charcoal-grilled beef tongue).

And I’m in the perfect place to sample it: Gyutan Dori (Gyutan Street) on the 3rd floor of Sendai Station. There is a literal hallway filled with the city’s top gyutan restaurants. (The photo above explaining all manner of gyutan was taken in the 3rd floor hallway)

This line doesn’t look too terrible.

The restaurant is Date no Gyutan Honpo.

I chose the 2 pieces, 4 slices set (1,920 JPY = 12 USD).

I sat at the counter.

Besides the tongue, there’s (l to r): barley rice, oxtail soup, and grated yam (to be mixed with the rice). On the plate are: nanban miso-zuke (spicey!), and pickled cabbage.

It was all good! I have to say though, that the tongue was a little rubbery.

To be fair however, I could have spent an extra few hundred yen to get the “Kiwami” or “Premium” cut. It uses the base of the tongue, which is significantly more marbled and tender than the tip. My cheap self couldn’t go there!

The check.

A short queue as I departed Date no Gyutan Honpo.

This was a good day!

Tuesday, April 21 – Sendai

I’m feeling a little lazy this morning. The fact that it’s raining might have something to do with it! It began to clear up by late morning though, and I was out the door after that.

Due to the later start, I’m sticking around Sendai again today.

A 30 minute walk from the hotel is the Zuihoden Mausoleum.

The mausoleum serves as the final resting place of Date Masamune, the legendary “One-Eyed Dragon” and founder of the Sendai Domain. Following Date Masamune’s death in 1636, his successor, Date Tadamune, fulfilled his father’s final wish by building this mausoleum on Kyogamine Hill. The original structures were so architecturally significant they were designated as National Treasures of Japan in 1931.

However, on July 10, 1945, during the firebombing of Sendai during World War II, the entire complex was burned to the ground. Reconstruction took place in the late 1970s; with a renovation effort following that in the early 21st century.

The stone staircase of the approach was undamaged from the World War II bombing, and is the original one built in the 17th century. The cedar trees lining each side are over 380 years old.

Nehanmon (Nirvana Gate): The main entrance to the inner sanctum.

Inside Nehanmon, looking at Zuihoden (The Main Mausoleum).

Zuihoden houses the remains of Date Masamune.

A short walk from the main site leads to the mausoleums of Masamune’s successors.

This is the tomb of the 2nd Lord, Date Tadamune.

Adjacent to the mausoleum complex is the Zuihoji Temple.

It was built to serve as the family temple of Date Masamune.

Also located on the grounds is this monument to those who lost their lives in the Satsuma Rebellion (ca. 1878).

Zuihoden is located within Kyogamine Park, and I was hoping to explore some of the trails. Not today though, as they were closed due to a bear incursion!

After a half hour walk, I’m approaching Mount Aoba ahead. I’m going there to check out the ruins of Sendai Castle. Up in the hills you can see what remains of the wall that once surrounded the castle.

There’s actually a shuttle bus that runs from the mausoleum to the castle; but you know I’m too cheap for that! Instead, I’m trudging up this hill!

This wall is impressive!

Looking back towards Sendai.

Tsumenomon Gate

The castle was commissioned in 1600 by Date Masamune (that’s a familiar name!). It survived until the late 19th century, when it was largely dismantled during the Meiji Restoration. What remained was destroyed during the Allied air raids of July 1945.

A view of Sendai from the castle grounds.

This monument was built to honor the soldiers from the Sendai region who died during the First Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895). While having the appearance of an eagle, the bird is actually a Golden Kite (Kinshi), a messenger of the gods in Japanese mythology.

Footnote: The original bronze bird fell from its pedestal during the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, and suffered significant damage. It was eventually repaired and re-mounted, but was moved from the top of the pillar to a lower, more earthquake-secure base below for safety.

The Bronze Equestrian Statue of Date Masamune. He is depicted in full armor with his signature crescent-moon helmet, gazing out over the city.

Also located on the grounds is the Miyagi Gokoku Shrine.

The Shinto shrine honors those who died in various wars.

Adjacent to the shrine is this rack containing handwritten wooden prayer plaques called Ema.

At the base of Mount Aobe, this monument marks the spot where an entrance gate to the castle was located.

Sendai is officially recognized as the birthplace of figure skating in Japan. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, foreign residents and students began skating on the frozen Goshiki-numa Pond (in the background; it is also located at the base of Mount Aobe). A German teacher named Wilhelm Hailey is credited with teaching the locals the basics of figure skating here in the early 1900s.

Nearby is the Sendai Ryokusaikan Visitor Center. On display there is this Yamaboko float, a traditional festival cart used in the Sendai Aoba Festival.

Also on display are these beautiful handmade ornaments that are part of the annual Sendai Tanabata Festival. (They have a few festivals here!)

Travel Note: I hope you’re not disappointed in what you’ve seen so far from my Japan visit. I looked back at my travel records, and in addition to the year I lived here in 2011, this is my 15th trip to Japan, for both business and pleasure (that number surprised me too!). And as you would expect, I’ve already visited a lot of the more popular places in this country. So, as I mentioned previously, for this trip I’m trying to hit places that: a) I haven’t seen before, and b) are off the beaten path. That could make these Journal Entries a little boring for those hoping to see the highlights of Japan! If that’s the case, I apologize. Finally, I’m trying to avoid the “problem” tourist areas of Japan that are described in this report from Canada’s CBC News (the video only runs 2 minutes).

Wednesday, April 22 – Sendai

Today I’m taking a short train ride to visit a place considered to be one of the “Three Most Scenic Spots of Japan.” Wow! Has definitely peaked my interest; how about you?

After a 40 minute train ride, and a fare of 440 JPY (2.75 USD), I’ve arrived at my destination – Matsushima Bay.

The bay is characterized by over 260 pine-clad islands scattered across its waters, and one of the most important Zen temples in Northern Japan.

Sidenote: The Three Views of Japan is the list of Japan’s three most celebrated scenic sights, attributed to a 1643 book by the scholar Hayashi Gahō. The views are of the islands of Matsushima; the sandbar of Amanohashidate in Kyoto Prefecture; and Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima Prefecture.

Three of Matsushima’s islands are connected to the mainland by pedestrian bridges; I’m going to explore those first.

Access to Fukuurajima Island is via the 252 meter (827 feet) long Fukuurabashi Bridge. The fee to cross the bridge is 300 JPY (2 USD).

The bridge is known as the “Encounter Bridge” (Deai-bashi), as local lore suggests crossing it will lead you to a significant meeting or a new relationship. Since its repair following the 2011 earthquake (aided by donations from Taiwan), it is also called the “Bridge of Bonds.”

Sidenote: I didn’t have a significant meeting or new relationship. But maybe it’s not supposed to be immediate?

View from the bridge.

The island is home to over 300 species of plants and trees.

This Benzaiten shrine is dedicated to the goddess of music, wisdom, and water.

There’s a nice little park on the island.

Can you spot the heron? Hahaha!

I’m now approaching Oshima Island.

The island was once a sanctuary for wandering monks.

The Togetsukyo Bridge. In Buddhist tradition, this is known as the “Bridge Severing Evil Ties.” It symbolizes monks leaving behind their worldly attachments and desires on the mainland as they entered the island for ascetic training and meditation.

There is no entry fee for Oshima Island.

In the distance is Fukuurajima Island and Fukuurabashi Bridge.

The island is dotted with roughly 50 hand-carved caves.

They were used by Buddhist priests for meditation and…

…dedications.

I have one more bridge to cross…

…and it leads to Godaido Temple, seen on the island up ahead.

To reach the temple, you must cross three small bridges. They are famous for having gaps between the floorboards, allowing you to see the rushing seawater directly beneath your feet.

(Fortunately, they also have the long planks that can be used when walking across!)

There was no entry fee here.

The temple was built in 1604 by Date Masamune (him again!). It is the oldest surviving example of Momoyama-style architecture in the Tohoku region.

The woodwork is amazing!

Just a few blocks inland are a couple temples I want to check out…

The entrance to Entsuin Temple.

The entry fee is 500 JPY (3 USD).

Entsuin is known for its distinct flora…

Rock Garden

Rose Garden (sadly, not in bloom)

Maple Grove

Sankeiden Mausoleum; built in 1647, it honors Date Mitsumune, the grandson of Date Masamune.

Moss Garden

Hand-carved caves similar to those on Oshima Island.

My last stop of the day was the Zuigan-ji Temple.

The entry fee is 1,000 JPY (6 USD).

It is widely considered the most important Zen temple in the Tohoku region.

Zuigan-ji Temple was founded in 828 as a Tendai sect temple. It was converted to a Rinzai Zen temple during the Kamakura Period. After years of decline, Date Masamune rebuilt it in 1609 as his family temple. He spared no expense, bringing in master craftsmen from Kyoto and Wakayama.

Looking at the Hondo, the main building of the temple.

The exterior remains simple and grounded in Zen philosophy.

This is the Kuri (Zen Kitchen); it is considered to be one of the finest examples of Zen kitchen architecture in Japan.

While the exterior of the temple is beautiful, the interior is breathtaking. And, unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside.

The Hondo features ten rooms, each with distinct themes. They are decorated with brilliant gold-leaf sliding doors (called fusuma) and paintings by the Kano school.

I was able to pull a few photos from the internet to give an idea of what I’m talking about…

This is the Shitchu (Kujaku no Ma); the central, main chamber within the Hondo.

Amazing, right?

Below are a couple photos from the temple grounds…

The Guardian Deity of Longevity (ca. 1838).

Well, I arrived at Matsushima Bay with fairly high expectations, and I think they were met!

Saturday, April 18 – Aomori City

This is my last full day in Aomori. And it’s raining. But that’s okay, I’ve got some Journal catch up to do.

(Today’s dodgy weather just reinforces how thankful I am for the beautiful conditions in Hirosaki on Thursday)

By late afternoon the rain had stopped, and I just got out and walked around a bit.

This restaurant is a couple blocks from my hotel, and every time I walked by there was a line waiting to get in. I was tempted to join the queue a few times, but never pulled the trigger. Kind of stupid, as I look back on it…

Sunday, April 19 – transit from Aomori City to Sendai

I’m back on the Hayabusa Shinkansen Train today, traveling south to Sendai. I depart from Shin-Aomori Station at around 1pm. No need to rush on a Sunday morning!

I ended up taking the 10:42am train from Aomori to Shin Aomori. It’s only a 7 minute ride, but I needed to pick up my ticket, so left a cushion in case there were any issues.

The train from Aomori to Shin-Aomori continues on to Hirosaki, where the festival is now underway. And the train was packed on this Sunday morning! (Happy I went to Hirosaki on Thursday!)

This is the train getting ready to depart Shin-Aomori for Hirosaki, after I’ve gotten off. A little full! The conductor is checking to make sure the doors are able to close safely; and push people in, if need be (seriously!)!

(And there’s even a stealth self-portrait in this photo!)

The trip from Aomori to Sendai takes a little under 2 hours on the Shinkansen. Not really long enough to justify a Gran Class ticket; but I did splurge for the Green Class!

Green Class provides 2×2 seating with more legroom, while Ordinary Class is 2×3. The cost of the trip was 97 USD. The upcharge from Ordinary to Green was 23 USD. Worth it!

The Shinkansen trains typically have 10 cars, broken down by:

• Gran Class: 1 car
• Green Class: 1 car
• Ordinary Class: 8 cars

Was lucky to catch a glimpse of Mount Iwate out of my window on the train ride! Its elevation is 2,038 meters (about 6,700 feet).

Sendai Train Station

I arrived a little before 3pm, which happens to be the check-in time at my hotel. And it’s only a 10 minute walk away from the station.

Sotetsu Fresa Inn Sendai

I like this free amenities dispenser in the lobby. It includes everything from bath gels to tea bags!

My room’s a little bigger than in Tokyo; a little smaller than in Aomori. I’ll be here for 7 nights. 121 USD/night, including breakfast.

Monday, April 20 – Sendai

Why Sendai? For pretty much the same reasons as Aomori, except for the Hirosaki part! Plus, Sendai was profoundly impacted by the 2011 earthquake, which occurred while I was living in Yokohama. In the Miyagi Prefecture (where Sendai is the capital), over 9,000 people lost their lives due to the resulting tsunami. I guess I just wanted to experience the region.

You probably know my “first day in town” routine by now – get out and roam.

But first…

…breakfast. And what a spread!

This exceeded my expectations!

A great start to the day!

Just around the corner from my hotel is the Sendai Asaichi Market.

It runs along a narrow street, and is lined with fresh vegetable, fruit, and fish stands.

Sendai is the capital city of the Miyagi Prefecture, located in the east coast of the island. With a population of 1.1 million, it is the twelfth largest city in Japan.

A hour hour walk away is my first stop – Tsutsujigaoka Park

There are over 360 Sakura trees here, and some are still in bloom!

After Hirosaki though, I feel like I’m now a Sakura Snob. Pathetic, I know!

A few sights I found interesting as I made my way to the next stop…

I had to research the story behind this statue. The figure is a representation of “Victoria” (or Nike), the goddess of victory from classical mythology. The developers placed the statue at the entrance as a “good luck charm” for the companies and professionals working inside, symbolizing their triumph in the competitive business world.

Liked the storefronts…

Whoa! A vintage Mini. Not a 1st generation model, which I covet, but still nice. (The property where it is parked however, is a mess!)

My next stop is Rinnoji Temple.

It is often called the “traveling temple” because it has been relocated six times – through Yanagawa, Yonezawa, and Iwadeyama – before finally settling at its current location here in Sendai in 1602.

In 1876, a massive wildfire destroyed almost every building on the grounds, except for the Niomon Gate, seen in the photo above.

Along the approach to the temple…

…there are 13 stone Buddhist statues representing different deities.

The Main Hall (Hondo)

The temple remained in ruins until the early 20th century, when a dedicated effort led to the reconstruction of the halls.

Kitayama Cemetery is adjacent to the temple.

The temple grounds includes a inner botanical garden.

Entry to the temple grounds is free, but there is a 300 yen (2 USD) fee to enter the inner garden.

The garden was developed at the time of the site reconstruction in the early 20th century.

The temple is considered to have one of the most beautiful gardens in northern Japan. I don’t disagree!

As I made my way to today’s final stop, this house caught my eye. Well, I think it was mainly that beautiful flowering tree in front!

This is one of the entrances to the Osaki Hachimangu Shrine.

The Shrine was completed in 1607, and is dedicated to Hachiman, the Shinto god of war and the protector of the warrior class. Because it had survived fires and wars for nearly 350 years, the shrine was designated a National Treasure in 1952.

This is the Main Hall (Honden).

The Offering Hall (Haiden)

Unlike many shrines that feature natural wood, Osaki Hachimangu is coated in a deep black lacquer.

I am at the top of what is considered the main approach to the shrine. I came in the back way!

I’m going in reverse order as I exit the shrine! I’m now at the bottom of the main approach.

And to complete my exit via the main approach, I’m now at the entrance with its stone Torii gate! Totally confused? I know I am!

While walking back to the hotel through Nishi Park, I spotted this interesting sculpture. It is titled “Futari” (ca. 1983), which translates to “Two People” or “The Two of Us, by the Japanese artist Kyoko Asakura.

Well, this was a fun day, with a LOT of walking (24k steps). Perfect!

Travel Note: I was back to the hotel by late afternoon, and was actually working on this Journal Entry in my 11th floor room at around 5pm when I felt a little shaking. Mmmmm… This is familiar. Then the room started swaying back and forth a little for probably around a half a minute. Yes, this is definitely an earthquake! I was surprisingly calm though. Likely because I’ve experienced this before. And knowing that the modern buildings of Japan are designed to withstand earthquakes, I stayed in my room. Soon after, an announcement came over the hotel P.A. system, first in Japanese and then in English, stating that we should stay in our rooms while the staff made an assessment of any damage.

It turns out it was a magnitude 7.5 ‘quake, with the epicenter off the northeast coast of Honshu (Japan’s main island). There were no issues here in Sendai; but at my previous stop, the Aomori prefecture, one person was injured and 39 buildings were damaged.

Wednesday, April 15 – Aomori City

Why Aomori? A few reasons:

• I wanted to travel to places in Japan that I hadn’t visited before
• I was looking for locations off-the-beaten-path
• It has a station with Shinkansen train service
• It is a short train ride from Hirosaki, one of the top sakura (cherry blossom) spots in Japan

I plan on checking out an interesting place for brunch later this morning, but otherwise I’m just going to roam around a bit and get my bearings.

Aomori is located along Aomori Bay, on the northern tip of Japan’s main island, Honshu. It is the capital city of the Aomori Prefecture, in the Tohoku region of Japan. It has a population of around 250k.

The Aomori Bay Bridge

There’s a nice boardwalk along the bay

In the background is the Hakkoda Maru, a former ferry, now a museum.

Travel Note: The temperature is in the 50s this morning. I’m wearing long pants and a fleece for the first time since I arrived in Fiji on January 8th!

The Red String Monument: Two Persons; it commemorates the 20th anniversary of the partnership between Aomori City and Hakodate City, and is inspired by a scene from author Osamu Dazai’s novel Omoide (Memories).

The Aomori Prefecture Tourism Information Center (ASPAM). There is an observation deck at the top.

Okay, I haven’t had breakfast, getting a little hungry, and I’m excited to check out the place I earmarked for brunch. Let’s go!

The Furukawa Fish Market, also known as the Aomori Gyosai Center, is a public fish market in central Aomori. It is filled with tightly packed rows of vendors selling all sorts of local seafood, vegetables and pickles.

What makes the Furukawa Fish Market special is a system that lets visitors create their own seafood donburi (called nokkedon) from the seasonal, local seafood sold right at the market.

The first step in creating a nokkedon is to purchase tickets (190 yen per ticket or 2,200 yen for a set of 12 tickets). I purchased a set of 12 (14 USD). Each ticket can be exchanged for items around the market.

The second step is to collect a bowl of rice (one ticket for a regular portion, two tickets for a large portion; I went with one).

Following the rice, you then just walk around the market to check out what the vendors have for sale.

You tell them what you want (or, in my case, show them!), pay with your tickets, and they will then put the item on top of your rice. The small portions were priced between one and three tickets.

I’ve filled up my bowl and am now heading to this dining area. Condiments, such as wasabi, soy sauce and ginger are provided. In addition, there is complimentary tea, water and chopsticks.

My completed nokkedon! It includes:

• Rice
• Tuna
• Salmon
• Herring
• Mackerel
• Salted Salmon Roe (eggs)

I used 9 of my tickets for this bowl (you can see the 3 unused tickets on my tray). Nine tickets = 1,650 JPY = 10 USD. A bargain!

And it was wonderful!

Following my nokkedon, I used 1 ticket for a bowl of miso soup with scallops.

Tasty!

I still have 2 tickets left, which I’ll save for another day.

The recommendations I read suggested arriving at the market by mid-morning, to avoid the crowds and the likelihood of items selling out. I got here at 10:45am, and by the time I left an hour later, there was a line beginning to form out the door.

This was a great experience!

Travel Note: This is day 100 of my trip. Whoo hoo!

Thursday, April 16 – Aomori City

I woke up with a specific plan for the day; had to abandon it; then regroup. And it turned out amazing! I love it when that happens!

My original plan was to ride the bus up into the nearby mountains and take a ride on the Hakkoda Ropeway (cable car). However, before catching the bus, I stopped by the Tourist Information Office (TIO) to make sure the ropeway was operating today. And, due to high winds, it wasn’t. I’m happy I checked!

While at the TIO, I noticed this announcement board…

The sakura will be in full bloom at Hirosaki Park on April 16th. That’s today! I’m there!

Hirosaki is known as one the best, if not the best, sakura viewing locations in Japan. (the Japan National Tourism Organization ranked it Number 1). And they hold an annual festival to celebrate it. This year’s festival starts tomorrow, which is when I was planning on going.

I was concerned about being in Hirosaki pre-festival, but the woman I spoke with at the TIO actually suggested that I go today – it will be less crowded (pre-festival, and a weekday), and most of the festival apparatus will already be in place. Sold! (I especially like the less crowded part!)

Travel Note: It’s a crapshoot trying to plan a trip to see the sakura in Japan. For this trip, I knew that I would be in Japan after the peak season occurred in Tokyo. That is one of the reasons I wanted to visit the north of the island. I actually thought I would be getting here too early (the festival only just starts tomorrow, after all). I can’t believe how lucky I got on the timing! Now, hopefully the weather will cooperate (fingers crossed!).

Traveling from Aomori to Horosaki during sakura season is so popular that Japan Railways schedules additional trains for the journey. Today, I was on the 9:10am rapid service that put me in Hirosaki at 9:45am. The cost of the trip was 715 JPY (4.50 USD).

Hirosaki Train Station

English-language poster promoting the festival.

Before heading out, I made a brief pass through one of the station’s shops…

I like this display promoting waffles (Well, I think that’s what it’s promoting?).

The waffle-maker

And, of course, a sakura display!

Options for getting to Hirosaki Park. Can you guess which method I used?

I’m now approaching the park. Remember my concerns about the weather?

Haha! My luck continues…

Okay, I’m now going to post a LOT of pictures from the park (with occasional commentary). Feel free to scroll rapidly through as your eyes (and brain) glaze over!

I’m entering the park via the East Mon Gate.

Hirosaki Park is home to approximately 2,600 cherry blossom trees across 52 varieties.

In the background is Hirosaki Castle

Hirosaki Castle was originally completed in 1611. However, in 1627 the 5-story structure was struck by lightning and destroyed by fire. It was not rebuilt until 1810, when the present 3-story configuration was erected.

Unfortunately, the interior of the Castle is currently closed as it undergoes a restoration.

Most of the park was free and open to the public. There were 3 sections though that required a ticket. The Castle area was one of those. The cost of the ticket was 520 JPY (3.25 USD).

In the background is cloud-covered Mount Iwaki. It has a summit elevation of 1,625 meters (5,331 ft).

Another view of Mt. Iwaki

This is peak sakura day, and the park is not very crowded. And I encountered very few foreigners. Loving it!

The Takaokabashi Bridge is in the background.

A view of the Takaokabashi Bridge from the opposite direction.

The Cherry Blossom Tunnel runs along the Nishi-Bori (West Moat).

Mt. Iwaki from the Tunnel.

Nishi-Bori; the Tunnel runs along the left.

Can you spot the heron?

Okay, I came upon this area of the park, and there was a crowd of photographers taking pictures from this spot. I stood here forever trying to figure out what they were looking at. Finally, I got It!

Can you see it? (I’m sure you’ll recognize it immediately; I’m just a little dense!)

I’ll provide an answer further down on this Entry…

This is Ninomaru Hitsujisaru Yagura, a watchtower.

Along this row of concession stands…

…I spotted this ice cream cart.

Apple Sherbet, 200 JPY (1.25 USD). Yummmm…

(Hirosaki City in Aomori Prefecture is Japan’s top apple producer, boasting roughly 2,300 apple trees with 80 varieties.)

On Sugi no Ohashi Bridge

The view from the bridge

Looking at the bridge from across the Central Moat.

Tatsumi Turret

The turret in the foreground, with the bridge in the background.

The answer to the picture riddle? It’s a heart-shaped opening in the branches of the trees!

I’m now in another area of the park that requires an admission ticket – The Botanical Garden.

Looking at the turret from the Botanical Garden.

Wow!

This is the entrance to the third area that required an admission ticket – Fujita Memorial Garden.

Mount Iwaki from the Memorial Garden

Wow! What a wonderful stroll through Hirosaki Park! Today was one of those lucky travel experiences that I don’t take for granted.

I passed by this interesting building on my walk back to the train station. It is the former 59th Bank Main Office Building (ca. 1904).

And a Fuel Price Check: 169 JPY/liter = 4.05 USD/gallon.

I got back to Aomori Station around 5pm. A full day! (with 22k steps!)

Noticed this cute Police Station on my way back to the hotel…

…with an equally cute Police Car!

Friday, April 17 – Aomori City

I was back at the Tourist Information Office this morning to check on the status of the Hakkoda Ropeway. And it’s a go! Great. Looking at the bus schedule, I decided to take the 11:35am departure from Aomori Station. That will give me time to…

…make a return visit to The Furukawa Fish Market for a late breakfast.

I arrived here earlier today than I did on Wednesday. As a result, it was less crowded, offering me an opportunity to take some better pictures of the market…

This is one of the rice and miso stations.

My dining spot

I went with mostly the same ingredients as last time, except for the shrimp adder. Also, I chose Spicy Fish Roe today.

I had 2 tickets left over from Wednesday, bought 7 more today, and used 8 on this nokkedon. That left me with one more ticket for…

…this (steaming) bowl of miso soup with scallops.

Another great meal!

Passed this cool building on my way to the bus.

The ride up the mountain was in a coach bus, like the one I used to go from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station. The trip to the Hakkoda Ropeway Station took about 75 minutes and cost 1,290 JPY (8 USD). And I was able to use my digital Suica/PASMO card, which was nice.

A view from the bus as we enter Towada-Hachimantai National Park.

Hakkoda Ropeway Station

The end of one of the ski runs, adjacent to the Hakkoda Ropeway.

The snow wall at the end of the ski run. The car parked in the background provides size perspective.

The round trip on the ropeway (cable car) cost 2,200 JPY (14 USD).

All aboard! (including some skiers and snowboarders)

The Hakkoda Mountain Range is a collective name for 18 distinct peaks.

The Hakkoda Mountains are also synonymous with the deadliest disaster in the history of mountaineering. In January 1902, 210 soldiers of the Japanese Imperial Army attempted a winter crossing of the mountains to prepare for the Russo-Japanese War. They were caught in a record-breaking blizzard with temperatures dropping to -42 degrees F. Out of the 210 men, 199 perished.

The ride to the summit took about 10 minutes. The elevation change is 650 meters (2,100 feet).

Summit Park Station on Mount Tamoyachidake.

The Summit Station’s latitude, longitude, and elevation (1,314 meters = 4,300 feet)

Current conditions at the Summit Station (9 degrees C = 48 F).

A snowboarder getting ready to make a run.

Panorama photo looking south.

Looking north; that is Aomori City in the distance.

A skier preparing to take on the northern slope.

That’s Mount Iwaki (again!).

Time to make my way back down the mountain…

The cars run every 20 minutes.

This was a fun excursion. I will say though that it’s probably the least pretty time of year to ride the ropeway. Dirty snow, nothing yet blooming, etc. But that’s okay!

Travel Note: So, this trip has taken me from the beaches of the South Pacific to the mountains of Japan. Pretty cool!

The bus ride back went smoothly (at the same price as the ride up), and we arrived at Aomori Station around 4:30pm.

Sunday, April 12 & Monday, April 13 – transit from Chiang Mai to Tokyo

My journey to Japan begins with a flight at 7:30 tonight. Check-out from the apartment was at noon, and I was able to store my bag with the security team there, so following that I made my way down to the (air-conditioned) mall to have one final meal of potstickers and a smoothie. And then I just hung out there, doing some reading and getting a little work done until I went back to the apartment complex, grabbed my bag, and hopped in a cab to the airport (200 THB = 6 USD).

I booked my trip with Cathay Pacific, but the first leg from Chiang Mai to Hong Kong was operated by their low-cost subsidiary, Hong Kong Express. It was only a 2 1/2 hour flight though, and I had a window seat in the exit row. No problem! The plane was an A320 (3×3 seating), and it was full.

Travel Note: When I checked my bag for the flight, the Hong Kong Express agent didn’t ask me whether I had an onward or return ticket out of Japan.

I had a 2 hour layover in Hong Kong, with the Cathay Pacific flight scheduled to depart at 1:20am (Hong Kong is one hour ahead of Chiang Mai). However, we ended up being delayed by 2 hours due to a mechanical issue with the plane. I wasn’t too bothered; I’d now be arriving in Tokyo at 9am instead of 7am. No worries.

(Tokyo is 1 hour ahead of Hong Kong, 2 hours ahead of Chiang Mai, and 14 hours ahead of Madison)

And I have to say that I’m actually impressed by that 2 hour delay, because it was achieved while switching our flight to a different plane! That meant all of the luggage, cargo, catering, etc. had to be moved from one plane to another. In under 2 hours. In the middle of the night. Well done Hong Kong ground crew!

I had a window seat on an A330 with 2x4x2 seating. And the 4 hour flight was full. I started watching the movie Song Sung Blue, but ended up dozing off about halfway through it. I liked the part I was awake for though; I’ll have to go back and finish it at some point! (probably just start over…)

Sidenote: My cheap self likes overnight flights (and train rides); no hotel to pay for!

The cost the trip was 598 USD. A little pricey, but part of that is down to my lack of advanced planning. And, as I talked about previously regarding some other flights, I could have saved a couple hundred bucks by going with a low-cost carrier for the entire itinerary from Chiang Mai to Tokyo, but declined. (My cheapness has its limits!)

Travel Note: I took advantage of an option that Japan now provides for international visitors, allowing them to complete their embarkation form online in advance of arrival, rather than having to fill it out by hand upon arrival (or during the flight). Once the information is submitted, a QR code is provided to the traveler which can then be scanned when meeting with the immigration agent. Slick! (Considering it’s been 9 years since my last trip to Japan, I’m not sure how new this service really is!)

Sign at Narita Airport.

Upon arrival at Narita, I had a few transportation options to choose from that would get me to Tokyo Station, which is close to where my hotel is located. I ended up going by bus; not the fastest, but the cheapest! The 90 minute ride cost 1,500 JPY (9.50 USD). And I even slept a little on the way!

My ride from the airport. There were only a dozen of us onboard.

My hotel is a 15 minute walk from Tokyo Station. I couldn’t check in until 3pm, but I went there anyway to drop off my bag.

I chose to be near Tokyo Station because I’ll be departing from there tomorrow, traveling north by train. So, after dropping off my bag, I made my way back to the station to become reacquainted with its internal maze of corridors!

I also wanted to pick up my tickets for tomorrow’s trip. Yes, that’s plural; I’ll explain shortly.

In Japan, train bookings for Shinkansen (bullet trains) and Limited Express trains generally follow a “one-month rule,” meaning if you want to travel on April 15, bookings open at 10:00 AM on March 15. I have four such trips coming up, and I utilized that window to book each segment.

I used the JR (Japan Railways) East website to purchase my tickets. Once the purchase was complete, I received an email from JR East with a QR code. I would then use that code to pick up my tickets at the train station, either via a ticket office or kiosk.

Today I stopped by one of the ticket offices within Tokyo Station to collect my tickets for tomorrow’s trip.

And here are the tickets (plural) that I referred to earlier. To ride the Shinkansen, both a basic fare ticket (top) + a super (limited) express train reserved seat ticket (bottom) are required.

Following my Tokyo Station errand, I still had time to kill before I could check in at the hotel. I took advantage and did some roaming around the area…

The iconic Tokyo Station

The station opened in 1914, and was badly damaged during the bombing of Tokyo on May 25, 1945, but soon resumed service. The Tōkaidō Shinkansen, the world’s first dedicated high-speed rail system, opened between the station and Osaka in 1964. It is the busiest station in Japan in terms of scheduled trains, with more than 4,000 arrivals and departures daily.

Fun Fact: In terms of passenger throughput, Tokyo Station is the 7th busiest in Japan, and 9th busiest in the world. The world #1 is Tokyo’s Shinjuku with more than 1.1 billion passengers per year! The world’s top 15 busiest stations are all either in Japan or India. Paris Gare du Nord breaks the trend at #16. London Waterloo is #38, and the busiest station in the U.S., New York Penn Station, is #94 (107 million passengers per year, 1/10th of Shinjuku). Think about that if you ever complain about how busy the train stations are in New York City!

Just a couple blocks from the station are the Imperial Palace grounds. This is a view of the Palace moat and guard tower.

I’m continuing my walk around the circumference of the Palace grounds.

This is an end view of the Palace Side Building. This large white cylinder isn’t just for show – it houses the building’s elevators, emergency stairs, and restrooms. This design was revolutionary when it was built in 1966, as it moved the “guts” of the building to the outside to leave the office floors completely open and unobstructed. (There’s an identical cylinder at the other end of the building)

This is Inui-mon Gate. This is as close as I could get…

…it is one of the gates used to enter the Imperial Palace. Authorized Personnel Only!

I’ve missed peak cherry blossom (sakura) time in Tokyo, but there are still a few blooms on display.

Approaching Soto Sakurada-mon Gate.

Originally built in the mid-17th century, the gate was damaged in a 1923 earthquake and subsequently restored.

I’ve now diverted away from my palace grounds circular walk, and over to Kita-no-maru Park.

The Flute Player (clever name!)

She’s rich!

This is a statue of Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa (1847–1895). He is primarily remembered as the first member of the Japanese Imperial family to die outside of Japan in modern times. He passed away in 1895 while leading troops during the Japanese invasion of Taiwan.

Adjacent to the park is The Nippon Budokan, often shortened to simply the Budokan. It was originally built for the inaugural Olympic judo competition of the 1964 Summer Olympics.

While its primary purpose is to host martial arts contests, the arena has gained additional fame as one of the world’s most outstanding musical performance venues. A number of famous acts have played at the Budokan. The Beatles were the first rock group to play there, in a series of five concerts, each lasting 30 minutes, from June 30 to July 2, 1966. ABBA ended their last tour and held their final live performance there in March 1980. The album recorded here that sticks in my brain from high school is Cheap Trick at Budokan.

It’s now around 4:30pm and my sleep-deprived self is about ready to collapse! Time to check-in at the hotel. (ended up walking 23k steps today!)

Tosei Hotel Cocone Kanda

My tiny Tokyo hotel room! 122 USD for the night.

Travel Note: It’s about 25 degrees cooler here than in Chiang Mai, with a high in the low 70s. A nice change!

1 USD = 159 Japanese Yen (JPY). The ratio was 1/100 when I lived here in 2011. At 60% difference! Great for U.S. tourists.

My Spectrum Mobile Plan has worked like a champ throughout the trip, providing me with a strong signal and free international data and voice coverage at every stop.

Tuesday, April 14 – transit from Tokyo to Aomori City

My train doesn’t depart until noon, so no need to rush this morning.

Today’s 3 hour, 11 minute ride on the Shinkansen train offers 3 class levels:

• Ordinary: Provides 2×3 seating
• Green: Seats have more leg and elbow room with seats 2×2 across (+38 USD from ordinary)
• Gran: Features reclining leather cradle seats arranged 2×1 across the car width, with food and drink service from a personal steward. Also included is access to the View Gold Lounge at Tokyo Station. (+44 USD from Green)

Which would you choose? I threw my usual cheapness to the wind and went with Gran!

The Gran class ticket allows for access to the View Gold Lounge beginning 90 minutes prior to departure. That’s perfect! Check out time at the hotel was 10am. My train departs at 11:56am. Fifteen minute walk from the hotel to the station. Enter the lounge at 10:26am!

Entrance to the View Gold Lounge

I have to admit, I was expecting a little more from the View Gold Lounge, but that’s okay!

I had some nice tea and biscuits.

I left the lounge about 30 minutes before departure, just to make sure I had enough time to find my way to the correct track!

Looking for my train on the board…

And here we go!

(Impressed that I was able to figure out where to go, while deciphering the Japanese? Don’t be! The displays throughout the station rotated between Japanese and English. I just thought photographing the Japanese versions would be more interesting! And deceptive!)

The Hayabusa Shinkansen Train

Nice!

Seat 4A

A bottle of Sake and a bento box meal.

Left to right…

• Fukushima beef Hamburg steak; Rapeseed buds wrapped in tofu skin
• Fukushima-style fried potato mochi in shiso miso; Sardines simmered in soy sauce and sprinkled with bonito flakes
• Amazake manju tempura with savory Fukushima miso; Ostrich fern lightly sprinkled in soy sauce
• Thick fried tofu simmered in tuna flake broth; Sweet seasoned egg yolk with shrimp; Tohoku-style shiso miso roll

As we approached our final destination, Shin-Aomori, we were served a dessert.

This was a fun trip! I’m happy I splurged for the Gran Class. Just a couple disappointments:

• When I’ve previously traveled on high velocity trains, the speed would be displayed inside the car. Not so this time. (Gemini informs me that the top speed reached on this route is 320 km/h (200 mph).)
• The view along the route was mostly industrial, and in parts it was obscured by noise barriers.

There were only three of us who made the entire trip from Tokyo to Aomori City. About six others came and went throughout. The cost of the trip was 159 USD.

I arrived at the Shin-Aomori Station, but my final destination is Aomori Station, which is one stop away via a local train.

Travel Note: For public transportation in Japan, a prepaid Suica/PASMO card can be used to tap and go for the train turnstiles or bus boarding. This was in place 15 years ago when I lived here. Well, now there is a digital version. I have added the card to my iPhone wallet, and funded it with a credit card that is also in the wallet. I can top it up that way as well. Handy! And finally, putting my phone in “Express Mode” allows me to tap the ticket gates without waking the phone or using a FaceID/Passcode. It even works for a few hours after the battery “dies.”

(“Express Mode” is a function of the iPhone, not the Suica/PASMO digital card)

The train from Shin-Aomori to Amori (only 2 cars!)

(the cost of ride was 199 JPY / 1.25 USD)

On the train. (Nice and clean, like Singapore)

The view as I exited Aomori Station.

The Aomori Station

My hotel is a 10 minute walk from the station…

HOTEL MYSTAYS Aomori Station

The room’s a little bit bigger than the one in Tokyo! 151 USD/night for 5 nights.