Thursday, March 12 – transit from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang, Laos

I have a 3pm flight today, and checkout from my apartment is 11am. I booked a taxi for noon, which will get me to the airport a little earlier than I need to be, but that’s okay; I could either hangout at the apartment complex or the airport. I chose the latter.

The 15 minute ride to the airport cost 200 THB (6.50 USD). I probably could have saved a couple bucks using the ride-hailing app Grab that I talked about previously, but I’ve been told that they’re rather unreliable – arriving late and canceling pickups.

Chiang Mai International Airport

Apologies for the lame picture – I would have had to walk a ways to get a full (and decent) shot of the building’s exterior.

It’s a fairly big airport, with separate International and Domestic terminals.

The International Check-in area…well, for most airlines.

The check-in area for the airline I’m flying today, Lao Airways, is kind of off in a little separate area by itself (exclusivity, or also-ran??).

The departure area.

The one hour flight to Luang Prabang was in a rather small plane with 2×2 seating. It was probably 90% full. Even with such a short flight, we were served a snack of some sweet bread (maybe banana?). It was good! The cost of the one-way flight was 160 USD. Seems a little pricey, right? But I think there are some departure and/or arrival taxes included in the price.

Travel Note: A visa is required for U.S. citizens traveling to Laos. It can be obtained on arrival or in advance via an online portal. I went with the advance method. The cost was 52 USD, and the turnover time was 3 days.

At check-in in Chiang Mai, the Lao Airways agent did ask to see a copy of my visa, and proof of my onward ticket out of Laos. Upon arrival at Luang Prabang International Airport, I presented my visa to the immigration agent, and he asked me nothing.

(BTW, I packed the new hair clippers in my carry-on backpack! No issues.)

I was hoping to get a picture of our plane after landing, but it was raining, so not very convenient (especially with an umbrella in one hand, we deplaned outside). Sorry!

I used an ATM at the airport to get some cash and then booked a shared minivan for a ride to my hotel. The cost was 100,000 Lao Kip (4.75 USD). I was drop off number two on a 15 minute ride. Utilizing a private taxi would have tripled the cost. No way!

I’m staying at the Luang Prabang Pearl Hotel.

99 USD/night, including breakfast

I’m here for 9 nights.

The (rainy) view from my balcony

I’m (kind of) ashamed to admit that I was complicit in a little scam initiated by the hotel owner, with Booking.com being the victim. I use that website quite a bit for my hotel reservations, as was the case in this instance. The booking was non-refundable, but I was to make payment directly to the hotel upon arrival. Well, the hotel’s owner asked me to cancel the reservation with Booking.com and then pay him directly at the same rate. In exchange, he would provide me with a room upgrade and a complimentary Mekong River Sunset Cruise.

I was concerned about being stuck with paying for the guaranteed booking, and then being charged again for the direct payment to the hotel. However, I have the Booking.com app on my phone, so utilized that to submit a cancellation request. Then, in real time, the hotel owner received the request and immediately approved it, stating any cancellation cost would be waived. That was followed by my receiving a confirmation of the no-cost cancellation via the app. Done deal.

With the rainy weather, and my lack of initiative, I decided to just stay in for the night!

Lao Kip (1 USD = 21,300 LAK)

Friday, March 13 – Luang Prabang

Friday the 13th, again! It seems like we just had one last month!

The hotel entrance

The breakfast area (early, pre-crowd)

There’s a nice selection at breakfast. Very Asian though, which is fine.

Also included was the choice of a freshly made juice or smoothie. I went with the mango smoothie this morning (shocking, I know!).

Today’s plan will follow my usual arrival routine – just roam around and get familiar with the area. Fortunately it has stopped raining, and the temperatures here are a little cooler than Chiang Mai (low in 60s, high in 80s).

A Luang Prabang Roundabout!

The Switzerland Consulate

Luang Prabang was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, being recognized for blending Lao architecture, European colonial buildings, and over 30 Buddhist temples.

I like the Colonial European architecture.

Luang Prabang was a key part of the French Protectorate of Laos from 1893 to 1953, serving as the royal residence within French Indochina.

Luang Prabang is situated on the Mekong River.

This ferry provides transport across the river.

I can see a ferry ride in my future!

I’m now alongside the Nam Khan River, which runs through Luang Prabang and feeds into the Mekong River.

I returned to the hotel mid-afternoon for a rest. I had skipped lunch though, so was getting a little hungry by 5pm. I did a restaurant search via Google Maps, and found one with very good reviews that was a 20 minute walk away.

Khaiphaen Restaurant

I like their mission…

“Khaiphaen vocational training restaurant brings you classic Lao dishes alongside creative international fare, nestled in a beautiful location in Luang Prabang. Powered by Friends-International we guide young people in training as they build brighter futures, acquiring the skills they need for stable employment. So, every bite you enjoy with us at Khaiphaen brings a delicious dining experience and supports a powerful social cause!” (taken from their website)

It was pretty quiet at the time of my late-afternoon arrival. I’m glad I got here when I did though, because it started to fill up by the time I left (they also take reservations).

I chose the Mekong River Fish and Coconut Laksa with Rice Noodles and Banana Blossoms (65k LAK = 3 USD)…

…and a Pineapple Passion Fruit Smoothie (45k LAK = 2 USD).

And a bonus…they take credit cards!

They were both very good! The smoothie was especially amazing! I’ll definitely be back to Khaiphaen.

So how does this compare to my favorite Chiang Mai dinner combo – Dumplings and a Pineapple Orange Smoothie?

• Price: Chiang Mai slightly less (50 cents)
• Credit Card: Yes to both
• Taste: They’re both amazing!

I’m calling it a tie! But Khaiphaen has a few days to change my mind!

Following dinner, I took a walk through the night market.

Say cheese!

Wow! These pastries look good! (okay, I bought a couple to take back to the hotel…)

A fun day! With 19k steps (that should provide a little bump to my pathetic average!)

Saturday, March 14 – Luang Prabang

A couple more exterior views of the hotel…

The arrow points to my balcony.

I chose a banana smoothie this morning. And yes, those are dumplings (potstickers)!

I’m going to head across the Mekong today, to check out some lesser-visited temples.

Travel Note: While walking around yesterday I noticed many Chinese tour groups in town. Mainly congregating around the more popular places to see and visit. And after talking with the hotel owner, he confirmed that Luang Prabang is a popular destination for Chinese tourists. This is especially so since the opening of a high-speed rail service from China to Laos in late 2021. Now, I haven’t been to China, but I have had interactions with Chinese tourists many times throughout my travels. I’ve found that they tend to be loud, pushy, and are not necessarily concerned with the personal space or consideration of others. That’s just their culture. I’m not saying it’s wrong. What I am saying is that I would prefer to avoid them, when possible. So, that’s why I’m taking the road (or ferry in this case) less traveled today!

The ferry carries motorbikes,…

…vehicles, and pedestrians.

The fair for a motorbike is 8k LAK. For a pedestrian it is 3k LAK. For a local that is. The fair for a pedestrian who also happens to be a foreigner is 10k LAK (50 cents). What?!? Over triple the cost! Hahaha; for 50 cents, I think it’s more than reasonable.

Approaching the landing…

The images on the northeastern part of the map are the temples I hope to visit today.

This is the pathway from the ferry landing to the temples. That’s a truck approaching in the distance. It’s a nice path, just a little narrow!

It’s a one mile walk to the first temple.

From this point forward on the path is the access to the various temples. The cost to continue on is 30K LAK (1.50 USD).

The 123 steps up to Wat Chomphet. Fortunately the guard dog didn’t attack me!

At the top of the staircase are two stupas…

…that contain the remains of King Ounkham (reigned from 1895-1904) and his mother, Princess Khammoun.

Wat Chomphet was built in 1888 by the Siamese military commander Chaophraya Surasakmontri, while he was stationed in Luang Prabang to suppress the Chinese Haw, who had stormed the town the previous year.

The site provides some nice views of the town of Luang Prabang, and the Mekong River. This is the view looking west.

Looking across the river to Luang Prabang.

Notice the haziness? Sadly, it is caused by agricultural burning for land clearing, which has been intensified recently by commercial farming demand. This burning takes place between February and April every year.

Now looking to the east. The mouth of the Nam Khan River, as it enters the Mekong, can be seen in the middle-left of the picture.

I am now approaching Wat Long Khoune.

Also known as the “Monastery of the Happy,” it is an 18th Century temple which was formerly a royal retreat, and served as a meditation space for kings before their coronations.

Note the warriors guarding the entrance.

Beautiful murals inside.

The monk approved my taking his picture.

The monks’ living quarters. There was no entry allowed beyond this point.

Travel Note: What is the saying, there are exceptions to every rule? Well, following my recent generalization of Chinese tourists, I want to relay an alternate experience…

On the ferry ride with me were a group of three Asians, also on foot. We walked up from the landing at the same time, not conversing, and then parted ways when I started making my way down the path towards the temples.

As I was visiting Wat Long Khoune, they approached in a tuk tuk. We were the only tourists on the site, and acknowledged each other when they arrived. We continued to walk the area separately until we eventually met at the temple. We tried talking to each other but were unsuccessful until one in the group produced a voice-recognition translator on their phone. It turns out they were from China, and we were able to have a nice conversation for a few minutes. They even wanted to have their picture taken with me. As they were getting ready to move on to the next temple, they asked if I wanted to ride along. I thanked them, but declined, telling them that I preferred to walk. I saw them once more as their tuk tuk passed me later going in the opposite direction back towards the ferry landing. I very nice encounter!

Exceptions…

Wat Than Sakkarin was built in 1902 during the reign of King Khamsouk Sakkarin.

Its original function was as a place of riverside meditation for the King. It was later converted into a temple.

A view from the path.

What are you looking at??

Wat ​Had Siew dates to the early 18th Century. As can be seen, it is now undergoing restoration.

Note the bamboo scaffolding.

Today’s visit to these remote temples was right in my wheelhouse: off-the-beaten path, devoid of tourists. The only site where I encountered others was Wat Long Khoune, where I talked with my new Chinese friends.

As I made my way back to the ferry landing, I did pass by a few other tourists heading in the opposite direction.

Back on the ferry.

The hill across the river in Luang Prabang is Mount Phousi, a popular destination. It is crowned by the Wat Chom Si stupa, which is hard to identify in this picture.

I walked by the entrance to the hill a of couple times yesterday; in each instance it was mobbed with people and a line of minivans.

Now approaching the ferry landing.

I pass by the entrance to Mount Phousi on my way back to the hotel. If there are no crowds, I may go for it…

And the pathway to Mount Phousi is clear! More steps though. Ugh!

Part way up the hill is Wat Tham Phousi.

It is known for its unique setting amongst the rocks.

(Note the stairway to the right)

The stairway leads to this cave temple, which houses an ancient Buddha statue styled in the Pha Kachai manner; one of the oldest of its kind.

To access the summit of Mount Phousi and Wat Chom Si required an entrance fee of 30k LAK (1.50 USD).

Reclining Buddha

More steps…

Two out of three are impressed! Me too!

Inside Wat Chom Si. It dates to 1804, during the reign of King Anourouth.

The view from inside the temple.

The former Royal Palace (ca. 1904), now the The National Museum.

Approaching the gilded stupa at the peak of Mount Phousi.

Looking south at the Nam Khan River.

Looking west at the Mekong River.

Making my way back down to street level.

Man! Another fun day. With a lot of walking and a LOT of step climbing!

No lunch again, and I’m getting a little hungry. Maybe I can stop somewhere on my way back to the hotel?

It’s smoothie time!

Mango was recommended. Yes! (35k LAK = 1.65 USD)

Yummmm!

(I’m going to have to find a fix for my smoothie addiction when I get back to Madison! Maybe I’ll just make my own??)

I got back to the hotel around 3:30pm, and immediately hit the pool. And while I was poolside, the hotel owner graciously brought me a pineapple smoothie. Thank you!

I really wanted to get back to Khaiphaen for dinner, but it’s been a long day. And after these two smoothies, I actually wasn’t very hungry!