Monday, May 4 – Tokyo

Following my visit to the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum yesterday, Kaoru suggested I check out its sister facility, the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Great idea!

However, upon arrival at the museum, it became apparent that many, many others had the same idea. There was a massive queue waiting to enter! Mmmmmm…

(My theory about the Tokyo locals departing the city during Golden Week kind of just went out the window! They actually stay and visit the local attractions. Or maybe they do both. Tokyo is kind of a large city, after all!)

I decided to pass on the Edo-Tokyo Museum, and messaged Kaoru to see if she had other recommendations for things to see/do in this part of Tokyo.

And she came through big time…

Just a few blocks away is this interesting structure, The Sumida Hokusai Museum.

(The building was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Kazuyo Sejima.)

More Hokusai? Bonus!

The museum opened in 2016, and is located in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward, where the artist was born and spent the vast majority of his 90-year life.

I won’t bore you with too many photos. Below is a sampling of Hokusai’s work that is on display in the museum…

Susano-o no Mikoto Making a Pact with the Spirits of Disease

This is a recreation, based on a black & white photograph, of a piece which was lost to fire in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 (more about that later). It was painted by Hokusai in 1845, when he was 86 years old. It’s a large piece, measuring 109 inches x 50 inches.

Night Raid of Chushingura (ca. 1781-89)

New Year’s day at the Yoshiwara (ca. 1811)

The Kintaikyo Bridge in Suo Province (ca. 1834)

Rainstorm Beneath the Summit (ca. 1831)

Ariwara No Narihira (ca. 1835)

(Note that the pieces on display at the museum are full-scale high-definition reproductions)

This was a nice visit in a not-so-crowded museum. And I received a senior discount! (700 JPY versus 1,000 JPY entry fee – 4.50 USD / 6.25 USD)

Cool manhole cover on the sidewalk adjacent to the museum!

The Tokyo Skytree can be seen in the distance from the park next door to the museum.

I next made a brief stop at Ryogoku Edo NOREN; a dining complex designed to look like a street from the Edo period (1603–1868), complete with traditional architecture and a focus on “Edo-style” food culture. The center of the atrium features…

…a full-scale sumo ring (dohyo). Ryogoku Edo NOREN is connected to the JR Ryogoku Station, which is right next to the Ryogoku Kokugikan (the main sumo stadium). I wasn’t very hungry yet, plus it was a little crowded; let’s move on.

Kyu-Yasuda Gardens was originally connected to the nearby Sumida River, meaning the water levels and scenery would change naturally with the rise and fall of the tides. Today, since the river is separated by floodgates, the garden uses a modern pump system to artificially simulate those same tidal changes twice a day.

The centerpiece is a pond named Shinji-no-ike.

Turtles catching some rays on this beautiful day!

This was a peaceful place to relax, with few visitors.

And I’m in luck, there’s a photo shoot taking place!

Just across the street from the Gardens is my next stop, Yokoamicho Park.

It is one of the city’s most somber and historically significant spaces. Yokoamicho serves primarily as a dual memorial to two of the greatest tragedies in Tokyo’s modern history: the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and the WWII Firebombing of Tokyo.

The park’s site was originally an Army Clothing Depot. On September 1, 1923, when the Great Kanto Earthquake struck, thousands of residents fled to this open space for safety, bringing their wooden furniture and belongings. However, a massive “fire whirl” (a tornado of fire) swept through the park, killing approximately 38,000 people in this single location within minutes. (The death toll from the earthquake is estimated to have been between 105,000 and 140,000 people)

After the 1945 air raids of Tokyo, which killed over 100,000 people, the park again became a site for mass interments and remembrance.

Approaching the rear of Memorial Hall.

In the background is the Peace Monument, a large, flower-covered semi-circle dedicated to the victims of the Tokyo air raids.

The Great Kanto Earthquake Monument for Children

Memorial Hall

The Hall houses the ashes of over 160,000 victims of both the earthquake and the air raids.

Also located in the park is the Great Kanto Earthquake Memorial Museum. I visited this as well (free admission). I’m ashamed to say I was not familiar with the 1923 earthquake. This visit was both enlightening and sobering.

Sidenote: After I mentioned to Kaoru that I visited Yokoamicho Park, she passed along some related family history. When her grandmother was little, the earthquake destroyed the hairdressing shop in their home. The area was engulfed in flames, and she and her mother fled to safety through the fire and rubble. Also, her father’s apartment was right in front of Memorial Hall, and ghosts often appeared there, so they sold it. Amazing stories!

This was another one of those days when Plan A fell apart, but Plans B, C, and D turned it into something special. Thanks for your help Kaoru!

I’m now making my way back to the apartment from Sasazuka Station.

This is Jugo-dori Shopping Street (Shotengai)

A very cool vibe!

Tuesday, May 5 – Tokyo

Well, this is my last full day in Tokyo (and Japan, and the trip, for that matter!)

I received another assist from Kaoru, with a suggestion to visit Zojoji Temple.

Approaching the temple complex, with Tokyo Tower in the background.

The Tower was completed in 1958, and at 1,092 feet, it was the tallest tower in Japan until the construction of Tokyo Skytree in 2012.

Ankokuden (Pilgrimage Hall)

The hall was built in 1974, replacing the former main hall, and was rebuilt in 2011 to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the death of Saint Hōnen.

Inside, the hall houses the standing Amida Buddha, a portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu, memorial tablets of past shoguns, and a statue of Princess Kazunomiya.

The Garden of Jizo Statues

The garden is lined with hundreds of stone “Unborn Child” Jizo statues. They are placed there by parents to protect the souls of lost children.

Daiden (Hondo: Main Hall)

Daibonsho (Big Bell), ca. 1673

The 15 ton bell is tolled twice a day – six times each in the early morning and again in the evening.

Statue of Kannon Bodhisattva (the “one who hears the cries of the world”)

A Columbarium located on the temple grounds (a structure designed to store urns containing cremated remains)

Next to the temple is Prince Sheba Park.

Nice spot!

Travel Note: Since I’m in Tokyo, it seems like a good time to take a look at the largest cities in the world, by population:

1. Jakarta – 41.9 million
2. Dhaka – 36.6
3. Tokyo – 33.4
4. Delhi – 30.2
5. Shanghai – 29.6
6. Guangzhou – 27.6
7. Cairo – 25.6
8. Manila – 24.7
9. Kolkata – 22.5
10. Seoul – 22.5

NYC is the largest city in the U.S. (13.9 million); number 22 in the world. I’ve been to 5 of the Top 10 (and have lived in Jakarta, twice); not sure if that is good or bad!

I’m checking out another park on this beautiful day, a 45 minute walk away.

Hama-rikyu Gardens is located at the mouth of the Sumida River. It was opened to the public on April 1, 1946.

And I received another senior discount on the entry fee here, 150 JPY, instead of the usual 300 JPY (1 USD/ 2 USD)! This is the first place that checked my ID though. I only had my Wisconsin driver’s license on me, but that worked!

The Gardens cover an area of 62 acres. (for reference, Central Park is 843 acres)

The pine tree in the foreground is believed to have been planted in 1709. It is one of the largest black pines in the Tokyo area.

This is Sanshoku Dango (literally “three-color dumplings”). Here is the breakdown of the three colors:

• Pink/Red: Represents the cherry blossoms (spring)
• White: Represents the remaining snow or winter’s end
• Green: Represents the new growth or grass of summer

200 JPY = 1.25 USD

While they look like candy, they are actually chewy, lightly sweetened rice dumplings. The verdict? Once is probably enough!

The flow of water from Tokyo Bay into the tidal pond here in the park is controlled by this gate. This is the only remaining seawater pond in Tokyo.

Interesting tree!

Ahead is The Floating Teahouse (Nakajima-no-ochaya). It is connected to the rest of the park by long bridges.

And Bonus! I got another stamp for my book!

This was a nice conclusion to the trip – a beautiful day spent outside with minimal crowds. And I got in 23k steps as well!

Addendum to JE 231

Along with her two other jobs, Kaoru is an assistant to a Spiritualist and is in training to become a Monk. Amazing! Right? She refers to herself as a “Baby Gyoja”. The “Baby” being a kind of slang/Japanglish term for someone just starting a tough path.

The “Gyoja” reference however brings us back to my JE 231. Specifically, the section where I hike the Takino Path and visit Gyojado Hall. Kaoru has been reading the Journal, and as you can tell by the term “Gyoja”, Gyojado Hall has significance in her life.

As I mentioned in JE 231, Gyojado Hall enshrines a 7th century mystic who founded Shugendo, a form of ascetic mountain worship. In her training, Kaoru prays to Fudo Myoo, the primary patron deity of the Yamabushi (mountain ascetics) and those practicing Shugendo. His name translates to “The Immovable Wisdom King.” Fudo Myoo embodies mental toughness and discipline. He is also widely considered the supreme protector of mountains and waterfalls in Japan. Fudo Myoo statues are often found at the base of mountain trails.

I’m honored by the fact that Kaoru has talked to her Shisho (Master/Mentor) about me. She told Kaoru that Fudo Myoo has been with me ever since I was born. That’s remarkable!

Wednesday, May 6 – transit from Tokyo to Madison

I’m flying out of Haneda Airport at 6pm tonight. And I have to be out of the apartment by 10am. Mmmmmm…

I depart from Haneda Terminal 3, which actually has some interesting aspects to explore, so I ended up going straight to the airport from my apartment after check out. While I took the bus from Narita Airport to the city when I arrived in Tokyo, Haneda is much closer to central Tokyo, which makes transport via train more efficient and economical. The trip from my apartment to the airport took 80 minutes, involved one transfer, and cost 739 JPY (4.75 USD).

Travel Note: Another reason I love Japan? Almost everyone keeps their phone on silent from the moment they leave the house. While on a train, phone conversations do not happen. Even with headphones, “sound leakage” is considered rude. So refreshing!

After arriving at the airport, I stored my bag in a locker (700 JPY) and proceeded to explore.

Here I’m in the Departures area, looking up to the next level where shops and restaurants are located. The wooden bridge in the center will be described further in a moment.

The view from another section of the Departures area – more shops one level up.

OMG it’s Godzilla!! Why are you all just standing around?? Run for your lives!

This is a half-scale replica of the Nihonbashi Bridge, made of Japanese cypress. It connects the 4th and 5th floors of the terminal.

Looking from the bridge down to the Departures area.

The shopping section of the terminal includes this Gashapon store, with the iconic vending machines that dispense capsules with surprise toys.

Awesome slot car track at Hakuhinkan Toy Park!

There is also an Observation Deck in Terminal 3.

I was getting a little hungry, and this Yoshinoya was calling my name. Founded in 1899, it is a classic Japanese fast food restaurant, and is the oldest gyudon (beef bowl) chain in the world.

I chose the Beef Bowl with Toppings of Green Onions and Raw Egg (715 JPY = 4.50 USD).

Hit the spot!

Haneda Airport Garden is directly connected to Terminal 3, and features over 70 shops and a luxury hotel.

This display commemorates Children’s Day, which was celebrated yesterday in Japan.

I had some yen left over, and instead of exchanging it for dollars, I was contemplating a purchase instead. I stopped in this store, admiring their porcelain tea cups. After browsing through some other shops, I eventually made my way back, and…

…purchased this small Mikawachi ware tea cup (called a Sencha-wan). This piece was created in the 1980s-90s.

Located in Nagasaki Prefecture, Mikawachi ware was originally a dedicated kiln for the Shogunate and the Imperial Court. Today, about 30 kilns still operate in the Mikawachi valley.

I know nothing about Pokémon, but evidently it’s popular, as this queue near my departure gate in the airport attests! At the front of the line is a “Pokémon Stand” vending machine.

For my 10 hour flight from Tokyo to Los Angeles, I booked a Premium Economy window seat on a United Airlines Dreamliner. I’d say the flight was 90% full. I was able to sleep a little bit.

I have Global Entry, but upon arrival at LAX there was no wait at immigration. And I had to re-check my bag there as well, which I received very quickly. Finally, I needed to go through security to enter the domestic area of the terminal. Using TSA PreCheck, there were zero travelers waiting in line. Have I arrived at Bizarro LAX? I’ve never had such a smooth experience here!

After a 2 hour layover, I was on another United flight, to O’Hare. Regular economy this time; a window seat in a fully-packed 757 for the 3 1/2 hour flight.

I used miles for the trip from Tokyo to Chicago: 65k + 50 USD.

The final leg of my journey was a bus ride from O’Hare to Madison. My flight arrived at the gate at 8:25pm. The buses depart at the top of the hour. I figured I had no chance of catching the 9pm bus, but gave it a shot. Again, I received my bag very quickly, and after riding the tram to the outskirts of the airport, I (quickly) walked up to the bus, with it’s door closed and the driver poised to pull away. Made it! (Just)

Travel Note: When I departed on this trip on January 6th, I took the bus from Madison to O’Hare. At that time, the price of gas was around 2.50 USD/gallon and the bus ticket was 40 USD. Today, the price a gas is around 4.50 USD/gallon and the bus ticket cost…41 USD. I would have expected a much greater price increase.

The bus was surprisingly full. As the last one to board, I ended up sitting next to someone. That changed though after our first stop in Rockford. A few passengers exited and I moved to an empty set of two seats.

We arrived at the drop off point on the UW Campus at 11:50pm. I ordered a Lyft (14 USD), and was at the door of my house at 12:15am.

I’ve had several Page-A-Day Travel Calendars over the years. If something came up that interested me, I would set aside the page for future trip ideas. This winter I was able to visit 4 pages!

These are the only shoes that I brought with me on the trip. You may remember that I had to glue them back together when I was in London last year. Hangin’ in there!

Well! That’s a wrap on my 2026 Winter Escape. Thank you to everyone for following along; this one has been rather long, so I appreciate your stamina! And many thanks to all of you who have reached out during the trip; be it by comments, messages, or calls. Solo traveling gets a little lonely at times; hearing from you makes it (much) less so.

I say this every year, but it’s worth repeating: I don’t take these trips for granted. I feel blessed to have the physical and financial wherewithal to fulfill my travel aspirations. I also can’t ignore the simple twist of fate that birthed me in the United States, a country whose citizens are able to travel visa-free (or visa-easy) to so many countries throughout the world.

For those of you who are gluttons for punishment, I’ll be posting one more Entry for this trip: My annual summary with lists, stats, and favorite photos. Look for it in the next couple days…