Tuesday, April 21 – Sendai

I’m feeling a little lazy this morning. The fact that it’s raining might have something to do with it! It began to clear up by late morning though, and I was out the door after that.

Due to the later start, I’m sticking around Sendai again today.

A 30 minute walk from the hotel is the Zuihoden Mausoleum.

The mausoleum serves as the final resting place of Date Masamune, the legendary “One-Eyed Dragon” and founder of the Sendai Domain. Following Date Masamune’s death in 1636, his successor, Date Tadamune, fulfilled his father’s final wish by building this mausoleum on Kyogamine Hill. The original structures were so architecturally significant they were designated as National Treasures of Japan in 1931.

However, on July 10, 1945, during the firebombing of Sendai during World War II, the entire complex was burned to the ground. Reconstruction took place in the late 1970s; with a renovation effort following that in the early 21st century.

The stone staircase of the approach was undamaged from the World War II bombing, and is the original one built in the 17th century. The cedar trees lining each side are over 380 years old.

Nehanmon (Nirvana Gate): The main entrance to the inner sanctum.

Inside Nehanmon, looking at Zuihoden (The Main Mausoleum).

Zuihoden houses the remains of Date Masamune.

A short walk from the main site leads to the mausoleums of Masamune’s successors.

This is the tomb of the 2nd Lord, Date Tadamune.

Adjacent to the mausoleum complex is the Zuihoji Temple.

It was built to serve as the family temple of Date Masamune.

Also located on the grounds is this monument to those who lost their lives in the Satsuma Rebellion (ca. 1878).

Zuihoden is located within Kyogamine Park, and I was hoping to explore some of the trails. Not today though, as they were closed due to a bear incursion!

After a half hour walk, I’m approaching Mount Aoba ahead. I’m going there to check out the ruins of Sendai Castle. Up in the hills you can see what remains of the wall that once surrounded the castle.

There’s actually a shuttle bus that runs from the mausoleum to the castle; but you know I’m too cheap for that! Instead, I’m trudging up this hill!

This wall is impressive!

Looking back towards Sendai.

Tsumenomon Gate

The castle was commissioned in 1600 by Date Masamune (that’s a familiar name!). It survived until the late 19th century, when it was largely dismantled during the Meiji Restoration. What remained was destroyed during the Allied air raids of July 1945.

A view of Sendai from the castle grounds.

This monument was built to honor the soldiers from the Sendai region who died during the First Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895). While having the appearance of an eagle, the bird is actually a Golden Kite (Kinshi), a messenger of the gods in Japanese mythology.

Footnote: The original bronze bird fell from its pedestal during the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, and suffered significant damage. It was eventually repaired and re-mounted, but was moved from the top of the pillar to a lower, more earthquake-secure base below for safety.

The Bronze Equestrian Statue of Date Masamune. He is depicted in full armor with his signature crescent-moon helmet, gazing out over the city.

Also located on the grounds is the Miyagi Gokoku Shrine.

The Shinto shrine honors those who died in various wars.

Adjacent to the shrine is this rack containing handwritten wooden prayer plaques called Ema.

At the base of Mount Aobe, this monument marks the spot where an entrance gate to the castle was located.

Sendai is officially recognized as the birthplace of figure skating in Japan. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, foreign residents and students began skating on the frozen Goshiki-numa Pond (in the background; it is also located at the base of Mount Aobe). A German teacher named Wilhelm Hailey is credited with teaching the locals the basics of figure skating here in the early 1900s.

Nearby is the Sendai Ryokusaikan Visitor Center. On display there is this Yamaboko float, a traditional festival cart used in the Sendai Aoba Festival.

Also on display are these beautiful handmade ornaments that are part of the annual Sendai Tanabata Festival. (They have a few festivals here!)

Travel Note: I hope you’re not disappointed in what you’ve seen so far from my Japan visit. I looked back at my travel records, and in addition to the year I lived here in 2011, this is my 15th trip to Japan, for both business and pleasure (that number surprised me too!). And as you would expect, I’ve already visited a lot of the more popular places in this country. So, as I mentioned previously, for this trip I’m trying to hit places that: a) I haven’t seen before, and b) are off the beaten path. That could make these Journal Entries a little boring for those hoping to see the highlights of Japan! If that’s the case, I apologize. Finally, I’m trying to avoid the “problem” tourist areas of Japan that are described in this report from Canada’s CBC News (the video only runs 2 minutes).

Wednesday, April 22 – Sendai

Today I’m taking a short train ride to visit a place considered to be one of the “Three Most Scenic Spots of Japan.” Wow! Has definitely peaked my interest; how about you?

After a 40 minute train ride, and a fare of 440 JPY (2.75 USD), I’ve arrived at my destination – Matsushima Bay.

The bay is characterized by over 260 pine-clad islands scattered across its waters, and one of the most important Zen temples in Northern Japan.

Sidenote: The Three Views of Japan is the list of Japan’s three most celebrated scenic sights, attributed to a 1643 book by the scholar Hayashi Gahō. The views are of the islands of Matsushima; the sandbar of Amanohashidate in Kyoto Prefecture; and Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima Prefecture.

Three of Matsushima’s islands are connected to the mainland by pedestrian bridges; I’m going to explore those first.

Access to Fukuurajima Island is via the 252 meter (827 feet) long Fukuurabashi Bridge. The fee to cross the bridge is 300 JPY (2 USD).

The bridge is known as the “Encounter Bridge” (Deai-bashi), as local lore suggests crossing it will lead you to a significant meeting or a new relationship. Since its repair following the 2011 earthquake (aided by donations from Taiwan), it is also called the “Bridge of Bonds.”

Sidenote: I didn’t have a significant meeting or new relationship. But maybe it’s not supposed to be immediate?

View from the bridge.

The island is home to over 300 species of plants and trees.

This Benzaiten shrine is dedicated to the goddess of music, wisdom, and water.

There’s a nice little park on the island.

Can you spot the heron? Hahaha!

I’m now approaching Oshima Island.

The island was once a sanctuary for wandering monks.

The Togetsukyo Bridge. In Buddhist tradition, this is known as the “Bridge Severing Evil Ties.” It symbolizes monks leaving behind their worldly attachments and desires on the mainland as they entered the island for ascetic training and meditation.

There is no entry fee for Oshima Island.

In the distance is Fukuurajima Island and Fukuurabashi Bridge.

The island is dotted with roughly 50 hand-carved caves.

They were used by Buddhist priests for meditation and…

…dedications.

I have one more bridge to cross…

…and it leads to Godaido Temple, seen on the island up ahead.

To reach the temple, you must cross three small bridges. They are famous for having gaps between the floorboards, allowing you to see the rushing seawater directly beneath your feet.

(Fortunately, they also have the long planks that can be used when walking across!)

There was no entry fee here.

The temple was built in 1604 by Date Masamune (him again!). It is the oldest surviving example of Momoyama-style architecture in the Tohoku region.

The woodwork is amazing!

Just a few blocks inland are a couple temples I want to check out…

The entrance to Entsuin Temple.

The entry fee is 500 JPY (3 USD).

Entsuin is known for its distinct flora…

Rock Garden

Rose Garden (sadly, not in bloom)

Maple Grove

Sankeiden Mausoleum; built in 1647, it honors Date Mitsumune, the grandson of Date Masamune.

Moss Garden

Hand-carved caves similar to those on Oshima Island.

My last stop of the day was the Zuigan-ji Temple.

The entry fee is 1,000 JPY (6 USD).

It is widely considered the most important Zen temple in the Tohoku region.

Zuigan-ji Temple was founded in 828 as a Tendai sect temple. It was converted to a Rinzai Zen temple during the Kamakura Period. After years of decline, Date Masamune rebuilt it in 1609 as his family temple. He spared no expense, bringing in master craftsmen from Kyoto and Wakayama.

Looking at the Hondo, the main building of the temple.

The exterior remains simple and grounded in Zen philosophy.

This is the Kuri (Zen Kitchen); it is considered to be one of the finest examples of Zen kitchen architecture in Japan.

While the exterior of the temple is beautiful, the interior is breathtaking. And, unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside.

The Hondo features ten rooms, each with distinct themes. They are decorated with brilliant gold-leaf sliding doors (called fusuma) and paintings by the Kano school.

I was able to pull a few photos from the internet to give an idea of what I’m talking about…

This is the Shitchu (Kujaku no Ma); the central, main chamber within the Hondo.

Amazing, right?

Below are a couple photos from the temple grounds…

The Guardian Deity of Longevity (ca. 1838).

Well, I arrived at Matsushima Bay with fairly high expectations, and I think they were met!