Thursday, April 23 – Sendai

You probably recall how my day in Hirosaki last week started out with a setback, but then turned into something amazing. Well, today is kind of the opposite of that; not a complete failure, but a little disappointing. Here’s how it went…

I’m going to focus on the eastern part of Sendai; starting the day at the Sendai Umino-Mori Aquarium. I read some encouraging reviews, and thought it would be a fun place to check out. To get there I had a 20 minute train ride, followed by a 20 minute walk.

They even offered a senior discount! So I paid 1,800 JPY instead of 2,400 JPY (11.25 v. 15.10 USD). Whoo hoo!

Couldn’t resist the sakura reference.

These Japanese Spider Crabs freaked me out! (the lighting might have had something to do with it!)

Pretty seaweed display.

I liked this, because it represents Matsushima Bay, and the Magaki (oysters) that inhabit it.

There were many children around the aquarium, which was fun.

An overhead tank.

I happened to be there during feeding time for the penguins.

This 1,000 ton tank recreates the Sanriku ocean. It has no roof, allowing natural sunlight to filter through, highlighting the school of roughly 25,000 sardines.

I also happened to be there during this dolphin and sea lion performance.

It was a fun diversion, but maybe not something I would necessarily recommend.

The main reason I wanted to explore the eastern part of the city was to visit the Sendai Arahama Elementary School. The school became a symbol of hope and survival during the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Located just 700 meters from the coastline, the building was struck by a wave that reached the second floor. All 320 people inside, including students, staff, and local residents, survived by evacuating to the rooftop. They were rescued by helicopter 27 hours later.

Unfortunately, it’s not easily accessible by public transport. According to Google Maps, to get from the aquarium to the school would take 90 minutes by a combination of train and bus. If I walk? Seventy-five minutes. Easy choice; quicker and free!

The school is open to the public. The first and second floors are left in their damaged state, and visitors can also access the rooftop. On the fourth floor are exhibition rooms.

Unfortunately…

…the school is closed on the 4th Thursday of the month. Today! I knew it was closed on Mondays, but was unaware of the odd Thursday (obviously!). I’m an idiot!!!

Oh well, there other memorials to visit in the area, as this map depicts.

A monument to “The Memories and History of the Arahama Area”

The before and after tsunami images from this location. Can you spot the school in the “after” photo?

Ruins of some homes were left untouched…

The Arahama neighborhood was once home to 800 households, but has since been designated a high-risk area where residential rebuilding is prohibited.

The Arahama Memorial Bell. The distance from the stone in the foreground to the bell monument itself represents the 13.7 meter maximum height reached by the tsunami.

This nearby statue is also 13.7 meters in height. To the right is a memorial listing the names of the earthquake/tsunami victims.

The construction of this protective berm that runs along the coast was completed in 2017.

Today’s gloomy weather seems appropriate for this visit. I’m disappointed that I wasn’t able to access the interior of the school, but this was still a worthwhile trip.

I now have a one hour walk to the Arai train station. There was also a bus option, but I was kind of in the mood to walk.

Located directly within Arai Station is the Sendai 3/11 Memorial Community Center.

The entrance includes this 3D topographic map of the Sendai coastal area.

A woman who worked here, and didn’t speak English, approached me and attempted to explain the various aspects of the Center. It was a very nice gesture, and actually fairly helpful!

“Our March 11th” Wall: A display where visitors can read personal messages from survivors and leave their own reflections or wishes for the future. The strips of paper are called Tanzaku.

This map of the East Sendai Coast was developed with the help of residents across many generations, who shared their memories and stories of the area, writing them on post-it notes, which were then made into illustrations.

The Sendai Arahama Elementary School is at the center top.

In this room is a chronological timeline and photo gallery detailing the immediate damage in 2011 and the subsequent years of reconstruction.

This section focuses on March 2011.

Well, I did a lot of walking today (22k steps), but I have to say the scenery wasn’t very interesting – mainly commercial areas and farm land. Another “Oh Well” to the day!

Travel Note: I’m just hearing about a wild bear being on the loose here in Sendai a few days ago. Crazy! That must be why the trail in Kyogamine Park was closed when I visited recently. Sadly, it was eventually caught and euthanized.

Friday, April 24 – Sendai

I have a little more exploring of Sendai planned for today…

My first visit is to the AER Building, located near the Sendai Station.

It offers a complimentary observation deck (“Panorama Terrace”) on its 31st floor.

The 31st floor even has its own elevator button!

The view looking east…

…and west. (North and south views were not open to the public)

Straight ahead is the entrance to the Clisroad Shopping Street. I’m heading there in search of the most popular “street food” of Sendai – “Hyotan-Age”.

And the place to get it is the Abe Kamaboko Main Store.

Hyotan-Age is so popular they have this specific takeaway stand at the exterior of the store.

This explains the basics of Hyotan-Age: It is a firm kamaboko (white fish cake) ball dipped in batter, shaped like a gourd, and deep-fried. It is similar to a corn dog.

These handy ordering instructions were provided. 300 JPY = 2 USD.

It is recommended to top a Hyotan-Age with ketchup. My verdict? Ummmm, nothing special. Sorry Sendai!

I am now on Jozenji-dori Avenue.

It’s a tree-lined boulevard in central Sendai.

Known for its “European” feel, featuring tree tunnels (zelkova trees), benches, and outdoor art…

…including this piece by Emilio Greco, titled “Memories of Summer”.

I’ve now taken the train to Asutonagamachi Morinohiroba Park in order to attend the opening day of the Sendai Ramen Festa 2026. It runs through May 6th.

The Festa features the top ramen from ten different prefectures.

Adjacent to the park is this interesting building, the KHB Headquarters (Higashinippon Broadcasting).

Each of the stands are lined up in the background. Visitors buy a ticket for 1,000 JPY (6.25 USD), and exchange it at one of the stands for a bowl of ramen.

Also onsite are drink and non-ramen food stands.

This is the ramen vendor that I chose…

…with the help of Google Translate!

Cute!

I went with no extra toppings – strictly the basics!

A little bit of a crowd on the opening afternoon of the festa.

And it was very good!

Saturday, April 25 – Sendai

This is my last full day in Sendai, and I’m on the train to Yamadera Temple this morning, with the intent to climb the 1,000+ steps up to Godaido Hall. It’s a beautiful day for a hike. Let’s go!

I’m making a pass through the Asaichi Street Market as I head to the station…

A promotion for the local baseball team in the station.

A quiet Saturday morning at Sendai station. My train departs at 8:18am.

A little over an hour later, with a fare of 902 JPY/5.75 USD, I arrived at Yamadera Station in Yamagata.

Yamadera Train Station

A few scenes on my way to the trailhead…

There are several shops and restaurants along the road from the station to the start of the climb.

The temple complex was founded in 860 under the official name Risshakuji. Its popular name, Yamadera, literally means “mountain temple” in Japanese.

Konponchudo Hall, Yamadera’s main hall.

It is considered the oldest beech wood structure in Japan (ca. 1356).

Shoro Bell Tower

Sanmon Gate, where the climb begins. The entry fee is 500 JPY (3 USD).

Here we go…

This small structure, Ubado, symbolizes Jodoguchi, or the gateway to Paradise. The area above the shrine represents Paradise, while the area below signifies Hell. With each step up the stone stairs, it is believed that one’s earthly desires disappear. I’ll let you know…

360 steps down, 640 to go. Although…per the map of the temple grounds I received, there are a total of 1,015 steps. I feel like I’m being cheated out of 15 steps here!

Midahora Rock’s surface features numerous engraved memorial tablets. The wooden tablets propped against its base are called Goshoguruma.

Niomon Gate (ca. 1848)

Looking down from the Gate.

Getting close!

Notice the mailbox?

It’s funny that they have one way up here!

This is the view down from the tree in the previous photo.

This bronze lantern marks the formal end of the 1,000 (or 1,015?) step climb. Yes!

(Even though, as you can see, there are still a few more steps on the right!)

Nyohodo Temple; this is at the very top of the climb.

To the left of Nyohodo is Daibutsuden. Together they are called Okunoin.

Up and to the left past the Niomon Gate are two of Yamadera’s most famous buildings: Kaizando on the right, and the smaller Nokyodo (ca. 1599). Kaizando is dedicated to the temple’s founder, Ennin, while Nokyodo, the oldest structure in the Yamadera Temple complex, was used for copying the full Lotus Sutra.

Nokyodo and Kaizando

A view of Nokyodo from a lower walking path.

Kaizando (ca. 1848). The stairs on the right lead to…

…Godaido Hall. Although it is not at the top of the steps, it is the ultimate destination of the climb. It’s an open wooden observation deck built into the cliffside.

A view of the Tachiya River Valley from Godaido. The train station is on the right.

This was an awesome hike on a beautiful day!

I’m now on my way out of Yamadera Temple. That is Bakkumon Gate just ahead.

Back on the station platform now. The arrow points to Godaido Hall.

Impressive snowblower!

Our train approaches…

I am in the last car of the train.

It’s late afternoon and I’m back at the Sendai station. And I’m hungry. I’ve already tried Sendai’s popular street food, Hyotan-Age; now I’m going to check out the meal that Sendai is known for: Gyutan (charcoal-grilled beef tongue).

And I’m in the perfect place to sample it: Gyutan Dori (Gyutan Street) on the 3rd floor of Sendai Station. There is a literal hallway filled with the city’s top gyutan restaurants. (The photo above explaining all manner of gyutan was taken in the 3rd floor hallway)

This line doesn’t look too terrible.

The restaurant is Date no Gyutan Honpo.

I chose the 2 pieces, 4 slices set (1,920 JPY = 12 USD).

I sat at the counter.

Besides the tongue, there’s (l to r): barley rice, oxtail soup, and grated yam (to be mixed with the rice). On the plate are: nanban miso-zuke (spicey!), and pickled cabbage.

It was all good! I have to say though, that the tongue was a little rubbery.

To be fair however, I could have spent an extra few hundred yen to get the “Kiwami” or “Premium” cut. It uses the base of the tongue, which is significantly more marbled and tender than the tip. My cheap self couldn’t go there!

The check.

A short queue as I departed Date no Gyutan Honpo.

This was a good day!